MAG58

private, i think i'm gonna work on my rotor before i get my commercial though, since the air is thinner, wouldn't it take more air to reach the same PSI at a lower altitude? so really the turbo has to work harder and ends up moving more air at the higher altitude to accomplish the same PSI? this could be 100% wrong, i'm just throwing it out there...

I don't have a technical answer for you're solution, but as a Pilot, all my books tell me that Gasoline becomes more prone to knock at high altitude as well. This is why Cessna's run like 8.5 NA and still have 100LL gasoline. So higher altitude can be compensated with a higher CR, but it's probably important to think about knock too, and if you ever do take a trip off the mountain, it could be a problem.

well this is a caddy seat and this is a dodge viper (ACR) seat... so i don't think it's those two, though from the seat back coming up as high with the head rest as it does i'd think high end lux... maybe a merc seat?

I may be interested. While you're at it, Would he happen to be able to make a surge tank also?

I cant tell you an exact weight difference, but I can tell you that when I stripped a 73 for parts, the insides of the doors had much heavier re-enforcement inside it. This occurred in a couple of other places as well.

actually yes, if you'd like, you could probably get away with getting some heavy single sided rubber pads (like the ones they use on the underside of computers and furniture to keep from scratching up floors and tables) and put that under the front of the barrel... it's pretty solid and best of all, removable, so if adding the pad to the front of the barrel actually kills accuracy (which it is known for doing), you can just take it out and not have to grind down and re shape the entire stock. If it does work, you could just leave the pad in there until you've got time to bed it correctly.

yes, sorry to be vague. The gun is a browning A-Bolt, and the wood stock is bedded, from the safety (rearmost portion of the action) to about where the barrel first starts to taper, i'd say about 3/16 of an inch in front of the recoil lug. The barrel is then free floating through the length of the stock until the very last 1/2 inch of the stock where there is a pad of composite I have molded to cradle the barrel. With this set up on my primary long range rifle, it holds a solid MOA pretty much with any ammo above 180gr which I don't think is to bad for a featherweight hunting rifle.

Ah, see when i first read this i originally though you had triple sidedrafts, I was obviously wrong. However, from the look of your AF ratio graph, I'd recommend trying some stiffer Dash-pot springs. This may even improve your mileage, as it holds your dash-pots down longer, but it should also be beneficial as the air-horns flow substantially more air than the stock box.

Correct, I've got almost 2500 rounds of 168 HPBT rounds or similar through the gun and it still groups well under 1MOA at anything under 600 yds, even with a hot barrel, which before i taped the front and side lugs it was incapable of doing after about 15 rounds. the 300WM is an entirely different creature all together, as with a brake, i still have it bedded at the action and about top 1/2 inch of the barrel... this worked best for the featherweight, as it drastically reduces barrel whip. ~Bob

God, how uselessly retarded is my generation? The sad thing is that there were actually more related videos of the same kind of Darwinism in action...

Reading an old datsun performance manual I have, they recommended against using both the air horns AND an Air box, as the air horns are supposed to straighten and direct from a relatively open area, while if you add air horns to the air box, the rearward cylinders basically can only get air from the far side from the air box. Take the Air box off and leave the air horns on and you should see your gains. ~Bob

that sounds interesting. I've already got plans for completely removing the front cover and replacing it with a custom plate to remove water and oil pumps along with killing the dizzy. Oil passages i'm not worried about as i plan on running almost a wet/dry sump hybrid, maintaining all oil passages in the block but running an external oil pump with a line plumbing the head separately, similar to what some NASCAR teams did in the 90's. This also has the advantage of ensuring a constant, positive flow of oil to the mains and rods which would be compromised with what basically amounts to having to support an entire second head worth of cams and valves. Water passages, may be an issue, but i already plan on modifying the coolant flow in the block anyways, to provide better cylinder flow than the current design, so it will end up being modified anyways. Currently I'm looking for a cracked 20/25 head and a pair of wiped cams/stock cam wheels to use for mock up, So i can start laying out the required machining steps required to get the kind of coolant flow i'm looking for.

I hope to make this my updated thread on my build log for my *choke* twin cam attempt(s). To Preface this, I fully understand the following before attacking this. From 3 years of searching, aside from one machine shop, this seems like a hopeless, useless attempt. This is not going to be quick, easy, cheap, or probably logical for that matter. There is no reason what so ever to chose this over say, any choice of RB engines, or other 6/8 cylinder engines that actually make sense. However, I've got about a year and a half of solid research/drawings into this, so I'm in it for the long haul. So here it goes. As far as L series parts, it's going to be the block, crank, and rods, oil pan, oil pickup, and that's probably it. I've got an F54 block that saw about 10k miles before it sat in a field for 15 years, along with the crank and rods to go with it. The Head: Currently the game plan is an RB head, as I really only need the bolt holes and cylinders to line up. The front plate: This is the big killing point of the majority of these projects. So far I have drawn up a complete front plate, to block off all oil passages, re-route water lines, etc, and am mating the very bottom of the Stock L front cover so that the maximum number of stock parts from whatever engine can be used with a minimum of custom fabbed one-off parts. The plate I have drawn up will eventually be making it into CAD files fairly soon that I plan to make available to HybridZ members, for free, hopefully. Block Modifications: The big problem with this engine will be coolant, as external oil lines and oiling modifications have been beaten to death and tried and tried on hundreds of engine designs with success. That said, the problem with the RB and L series, is the direction of flow is essentially backwards, rotationally speaking. If this happened, there would be very little flow on the exhaust side of the engine, leading to a horrifically short engine life. The block will have to be filled with Devcon, or preferably welding on the intake side to rotate the direction of the water jacket, with new holes machined on the exhaust side of the block, along with being stabilized to allow correct flow throughout the cylinders. There is a long list of modifications that I will be posting as I find time. Moderators: I really wasn't sure an appropriate title for this, so change away. I really don't expect this to be taken too seriously until I get some pics and dimensions up, but they should be coming soon. ~Bob

I actually have two for my car, one for what's done to it, it's basically a lookup of either dates or by category (2 different tabs) which hyper links to different tabs on a separate file saying the day I worked on it, what I did to the car, what parts I added and/or subtracted, and if available, the part no.'s where I got the part, and if i'm feeling really in depth, the price as well. My other spreadsheet I use for engine building, I have all of my dimensions mic'd and I put that into an excel spreadsheet, along side I have the factory spec and the tolerance, and a simple go/no go filter to say whether my measurements are good to go.

In my experience in 500+ yard shooting, taping the lug really does not see it's usefulness until you get some rounds through the firearm. This becomes especially necessary for those looking to fire their weapon at a temperature other than that at which you bedded the stock at. When the weapon is fired, the entire gun starts to vibrate, with centers at the two peaks of pressure the barrel experiences as the bullet travels down the barrel. when this happens, the entire action will vibrate. And even though the action is bedded in the stock, if the recoil lug has no room to vibrate a little, it will most surely make room, and when this happens, odds are it will slowly move the action out of where it was placed when the action was first bedded. This will tend to royally mess up all that accuracy. This may not be the exact reason that Jon used the tape but it is the reason that I do when I bed my stocks now, as this is how i now bed my 308 (as after about 1000 rounds the accuracy was gone) and my 300WM, for also the same reason. ~Bob