MAG58

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113145 It's a sticky... at the bottom he has the seat measurements.

No no, don't touch the pedal until after you gravity bleed it! If you do you'll just end up in the same place which you started. Gravity bleed it (or assist with your vacuum pump) until you see fluid coming out of all four bleeders before. Once you get fluid to all the cylinders you can start playing with the pedal again.

Paul makes a fantastic point, I'm not sure what the Ford heads flow, but I do know they have a pretty meaty set of balance shafts that are on top of the heads. Also, the LS3/L92 heads do flow pretty well for a OHV V8 and I'm pretty sure that a healthy LSx you could get VERY close as far as HP is concerned to a full blown OHC V10. All this said, I still say go for it, HBZ is about trying something new, pushing the limits, and throwing together something crazy to crank that grin beyond the ears. Is a V8 better? Can you make a good S30 with a ford V10? Will it be a kick? Someone needs to answer these questions... By trying:2thumbs:

Nice! Which brushless setup are you running? How's the power transfer compared to the good ol' Nitro. I remember when i wanted to put a big ol' 4 stroke on one...

6:30 Morning Row, walking to practice

I've been listening to Pendulum's CD Hold Your Color...Very good for night driving...

I don't plan on using the idler there for that reason. IIRC the early M104-24 that was basically the "pre-m104", an M103 with a 24v head used the idler gear arrangement. They switched to the slider when the production M104 hit the market. The slider is a pretty big investment cast piece that's held in place with 3 hardened steel pins that go into the head and block and screw into the front cover as well. I plan on replicating this, the angle isn't as intense and the force is transmitted along the entire length of the slider, allowing for more stability at the top end where the force is initially realized. The real question is the guides on the other side, going up towards the exhaust cam, there are many options, I'm just trying to find the most compact option that would still be semi-efficient.

Take some cable to tie up the motor so when you drop the tranny off you don't bind everything up... makes sliding it out a little easier (with shifter off) And I thought it was easier to yank the entire subframe out of the back and unbolt the diff from it than attack it in the car. Just pull the break lines off at the metering block, pull the hand brake cables off, disconnect the shocks, pull the bolts out and drop the subframe... warning it's heavy, but when it's out it's faster and easier to get the bolts on top of the diff and easier to get to the companion shafts should you want them too with all that room.

Rod Knock should get a little quiter at higher RPMs as the oil pump tries to compensate for the happy new space that bearing shell vacated. That said it would be a really metallic sound, and that doesn't sound like it. I got a sound similar to that once, it was because the header blew a hole in the side of the #3 collector. Are you running the stock ex. mani? If so check the EGR valve, they can come loose which will cause high idle and make that sound.

I've always thought coil overs were not a "race-only" item, as like it's been said before, you can make the springs as supple as you want. Big ol' springs may be a race only item, unless you enjoy having your dentist's work examined every time you go for a drive. However, I do hold the belief that heim joints are more of a race-only item, at the very least not a DD item. It stiffens up the suspension points sure, and it provides tons of adjustability, but from my experience with heim jointed mini's, the gook and grime that comes from service as a DD just degrades the heim joints faster than, say, driving for a day then doing maintenance on your track day or weekend cruiser which keeps all that crap out of your joints.

I never have FedEx ship anything to me anymore, because every time I have them ship to a dock, they ship it to the wrong one! There's only like three in my town, and they manage to land it in a city 50 miles away... Now I always use UPS or USPS with good luck... Though I feel there is an outdated technology that needs to make a comeback...

Call me retarded, but Mercedes used that slider in that same position (as it's using the same factory mounting points on the head, and I'm matching angles for use on the L block) so why exactly would it not work? I mean Mercedes thought it was good enough to put on their flagship 6 cyl for 10 years and it could safely spin to 8k and never had known timing rail issues... As far as timing gears on the crank, A handy cross check with ATI revealed that the mercedes crank snout diameter is actually the same size as a small block chevy. After talking with them, using an internally balanced SBC super-damper will accomplish the same as the superdamper for the L. just have to sleeve, or cad & machine a timing gear and we're good to go.

According to my trusty FSM: Valve Clearance mm (in) Hot Intake .25 (.010) Exhaust .30 (.012) Cold Intake .17 (.007) Exhaust .24 (.009)

The water Injection link seems to be dead, though I've always used this page for injection info... It has tons of good info and a calculator to see what you need. http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html

I'd have to second both the diff mounts and the short steering knuckles. I really like the feeling of a Z with a little quicker steering, and if you could fabricate a diff mount that still allows use of a rubber isolator, perhaps with a sandwich design that puts isolator on the top and bottom so you can finally rid yourself of having to replace diff mounts due to the "klunk" and still avoid the NVH that comes with solid diff mounts..

Easiest thing to do to make a quick custom exhaust is figure out where you want all the stuff to go (muffler, glass back, whatever else you may or may not stuff in there) and then find a big long strip of card board (or tape some together) and make a template, 2.5" wide. Then once you get your template made, go to your local muffler shop and ask them to bend you a 2.5 inch pipe to that template. It'll then bolt up where the template was. Shouldn't be too pricey either.

I miss my 63 mini estate... The zero leg room, the lack of sound deadening... the windows that slid instead of rolled so you could get zero air-flow even if you wanted to... the rock hard race rubber cones and konis that actually bent a rim on the local lack of road quality... No wait... Z IS a luxury car for me

The dodge truck V10 was an ALL IRON beast of an engine... you thought a BBC was heavy...

Wiring the gauges in my mini was the first thing I've ever wired all by me lonesome, that said it isn't difficult. Usually the gauges have really simple easy to follow instructions. IMO, the hardest thing about wiring gauges, is getting sending units that are compatible with the gauges you're using. It may take you a while this time, but looking at the bright side, you'll know how it all works so if anything breaks, you'll be able to fix it yourself without a problem.

Well the above is very true, but the 3valve Mustang GT engine (which is essentially a V8 of the same Mod V10) make very good power with a little assisted breathing... So if you find some blanks for some cams and nab some power parts for a GT, than I'm sure you could make very respectable power with it... Give it a try...

I have no idea... um.. why not?

which part? the cap that attaches to the hose or the lower part that attaches to the head? I may have one.

The original 3.0-24 head actually did have a wheel tensioner as you describe, but it was changed to the slider arrangement, it just looks like it's movable on that side because I haven't drilled and tapped the block for the bottom part of the slider... once i get a chain that fits, I'll drill and tap the block and be done with it. As far as the side I plan to use the Kameari tensioner, I'd consider it if it were a race engine and I wanted to mechanically adjust the chain tension. It's going to be a street engine, so I'd like to maintain as many stock parts as possible including the hydro tensioner in an effort to make a more streetable engine.

Quick question for you CA guys (since I may be moving out there in a year or two) When you do a swap in your post 75 Datsun, does it have to pass smog for the year of the chassis or the year of the engine?

People call your Z a Porsche? Why I oughta.... At any rate I agree, way too much 928 going on with those Taurus lights.