MAG58

Back to the topic at hand, I think the Vents and Flairs should be black, the rest of the car stay green. The black vents and flairs would accent the green nicely and should break up the giant board of a body panel that is the Z hood. If the spoiler and air damn are left flat black it def. gives of a bit of an "I just added these last night" kind of vibe, IMO.

I'm 6'3" 205 so it's just not going to happen even with jack stands. The High School I graduated from has a nice big lift in their tech dept. and as long as I help out their pre-engineering classes with fab work for their High Mileage car, I get to use the lift

I agree with everything TexasStyle said. I've got a Devilbiss suction for primer and an HVLP gun to shoot clear/color. The guns throw down an excellent paint job and do everything I could ask for in a gun. I am currently doing body work on a 61GMC truck for a local Doctor around here and he insists I use his Iwata guns. I honestly cant really tell the difference besides the money. The Handling is a little different, not better or worse, just different. But as far as paint quality goes, I can probably do 99.5%as good a job with my Devilbiss guns and actually have enough money left over to but the paint to spray through it!

I've always thought the sound of a 4 rotor was just this side of heaven. The power to weight ratio is crazy... To see a normally aspirated 4 rotor in a Z would be.. I'm not sure if words could describe it. Here's a video of a Kiwi with his 4 rotor FD3S. It's N/A on pump gas with an 8500rpm redline. I think the last place I read he was somewhere north of 600hp on pump gas.

have you thought about the mercedes 2.7L straight 5 from their delivery van? I think in the US it's either the dodge or freightliner sprinter? I've driven one for work, and for being a giant bloated beast, it moves it out pretty well, and gets incredible mileage.

For what reason would a futuristic computer need a helm?

PM's away!

Congratulations! My dad has pics of bringing me home in his 240Z ITS car. BTW, if all you wanna do is shorten it, Windows Movie Maker can even do that.

Thanks Ron, that's what I need to know... Could be why I couldn't find anything. Oh well.

Hey, I've found a bunch of 75-78 280Z TPS's my old man had tucked away in his garage and I was wondering if anyone had the ohm resistance values for these TPS's, I'm trying to figure out which ones aren't bad. I searched and got values in voltage drop is linear between 0-5 volts and that 240sx's are between 0ohms and 170-180 ohms, so are the resistance levels the same? I know the tps itself is different from the Z TPS and I'd like to just know a resistance rage so I can use my multimeter instead of having to plug them all into my MS to see which ones aren't shot. Thanks, Bob

Austin, I remember looking at the Nissan Truck (VQ40) and IIRC I think the AC compressor mounts higher on that side than the VQ35 mounts. I'm not sure if that's enough but maybe a start? -Bob

Cheat sheet... http://www.physicsforums.com/archive/index.php/t-56486.html

I've always wanted a micro car that could pull the earth off it's axis...

fantastic example of mechanical advantage! "So what we're saying is dropping this into a Morris Minor will only slightly diminish the acceleration." This is the most accurate sentence ever to grace the interwebz.

Agreed. When I was 18, i got t-boned by some hysterical little 16 year old. I got a nice talk from my father when I finally finished my Z... I was allowed to do plenty of things that don't involve keeping my eyes on the road... The include: Checking Gauges Checking Mirrors Giving appropriate hand signals to those not paying attention to the road or the above two options... and that's it! I'd like to apologize to all of you intelligent people who have to deal with kids around my age. You all have my respect for not wanting to shoot most of them... /rant Anywho, Glad to hear you're ok and hopefully you can find some way to benefit from this.

do you still have the R180 in the car though? if you're not sure, search the drivetrain forums for pictures of an R180 and R200 ...

For the past week or so whenever I try and load the site from any of 3 browsers (Chrome, Firefox, IE7), I either get a text-only page, or the site fails to load at all. This usually happens only during between around 3PM-11PM EDT, so is this just a traffic problem? I've never had this issue before. Thanks and Sorry for your time, Bob

these may be stupid questions, but... Did you replace the clutch soft line? If not, are there any leaks anywhere? Cracked hard line? Did you bleed the system? Did you remember to tighten all the bleeders?...Forgot that once... ~Bob

I'm in need of a bad RB cylinder head (RB20/25DET), basically one that's straight ish, but has a crack in a chamber or cam journals are worn past their years or it dropped a valve, etc. I need it as a mock up head. Also a pair of worn stock cams/timing gears and a stock HG that is used would be fantastic. Like I said, these do not really need to be in running condition, just in good enough condition to mock up and make some parts for. Thanks, Bob

you're correct, my apologies. Been too long since i've tuned su's

I use a compound called Halomar. I think it was origionally used as a sealant between the cases on VW's, but I've yet to have a gasket fail that was sealed with that stuff on the motors I've built. Though if you use something like that, don't expect to salvage the gasket if you have to do it again. When it's there, it's there.

This is really a matter of personal preference, and an entire ton of information can be found on both through various searches here, and I'm sure there are members on this board that will fight to the death for each motor with very good arguments for both. That said... There is no "better" engine and you really haven't said a specific horsepower goal and really both engines are probably going to give up the ghost much above 500 horsepower. What will be the difference is the power under the curve. a 3.5L motor will spool the same sized turbo(s) faster and provide more torque under the curve and a broader power band. Also another consideration to take into account is that a VQ is at least an option in most of the cars on the road in America from Nissan. This means that you'll get parts in a day or two, and not in weeks, So when one of those connecting rods decides that that it wants a vacation in one of those exotic places like outside the block., the VQ will get parts faster. HOWEVER, the RB is a smaller motor and if you work on it right you can rev the crap out of one, and the RB has been around for a while now, so as far as tuning goes, there are plenty of people out there that know how to make this motor make substantial numbers with relative ease. They say the VQ has a higher HP potential, but really it's going to be a few years still until this is truly confirmed since tuners and big companies have just recently been sinking their hands and cash into the platform, so the next while is going to pretty interesting to see what this motor cooks up.

The things I would do for an S38B32 engine. IMO has one of the prettiest heads I've seen on an I6, and after riding in an old M5 is one of the smoothest engines at delivering a fairly healthy amount of power. Not to mention all BMW ZF boxes have excellent feel, at least the one's I've driven.

I can believe it. If you had that vinal top on your car, would you want to be seen in public?