JSM

Thanks. I confirmed w/ Jim Wolf technology on the Fuel Enrichment. Doh, battery that makes sense. No I just have to figure out the (-) grounding fuel pump through the relay.

In the Ignition Block Grid, what does the B stand for, Both? Meaning it's on when both started and running? B = ? A = Accessories IG = Ignition S = Start

I think it has to be for a moment only if it is going to the starter.

Someone asked me if I was interested to race coming up in Sebring for the Chumpcar race. On the surface, this looks to be a inexpensive, however, after reading the rule book on the roll cage that looks to be some serious money to spend on the cage. Am I wrong here? I understand the need, but I don't think this is as cheap as they are trying to make it out to be? Plus clothes, etc. Thoughts, advice? http://www.chumpcar.com/events.php http://www.chumpcar.com/chumpcar-rules.pdf

The diagram above is from an 86 300zx Turbo. What is interesting is it's input on + voltage. It has 5 sources going into it. 2 from the EFI Relay, 2 from the Ignition relay (Fuel Pump and Coil) and 1 from the Starter switch.

That does make sense. A sort of saftey to ensure the ECU is suppossed to be sending fuel. So do you agree that the "Y" wire is only on when you turn the key to engage the starter?

For the life of me I have such a hard time reading this portion of the wiring diagram. I'm trying to understand what the "Y" yellow wire does on the 63M plug. Reading this, it appears to me that (B,S) in the start block of the ignition switch grid only has power going to the "Y" wire when you start the car? Then no power through it. Is this correct? Tracing the "Y" wire around it looks to feed: Starter, Antenna timer, and most importantly the ECU. Curious if anyone knows why the ECU would only want power once at start up?

iPhone hard to see. What are they and what size? How much?

Had the same prime issue myself. I used a 1 gallon can fed to the pump.

http://www.zdocs.com/

Awesome. And to think if a 15 year old could post correct size pictures, the rest of the hybridz community could too! Thank you, I thought I was going to have to brake out my wall projector! Is your brother cool with you putting all the work into it? Is the expectation the car will be yours?

I went with a Metzeler Lasertec.

So last week I'm riding home and on a moderate turn I hear this noise like there is a nail or the tire itself had some sort of cupping going on. Sounded like it was coming from the front. I pull over and roll the entire front tire and don't find a thing. Today I'm at lunch and walk up to the back of the bike and there is this huge bulge on the side wall and bottom tread of the tire. I touched it and it felt like a big blister on your hand. I about fainted. I rode up to 80 mph that morning on the Freeway. Is this normal for motorcycle tires? I'm assuming that it must be due to age. Tread is still very decent. The bike is an 05 w/ only 6500 miles when I got her. Dunlop tire. Pic doesn't do the bulge justice. Needless to say I rode the entire trip home at 30mph.

I found an 85 Turbo complete and the JY is cheap, so I was going to grab the entire system. I read through the sticky (Afshin) converting the 81-83 harness to use the Z31 ECU, but curious to those who used the Z31 harness, not the ZX. Reading through the FSM I made two list; Must and Don't know. Can anyone tell me what you did to the Don't know list if you didn't end up using it? Did you just leave it unplugged? Jump it? Etc. Must ECU CAS MAF Head Temp Sensor Exhaust Gas Sensor (O2) TPS Dentonation Sensor (Knock sensor) Coil Don't Know Vehicle Speed Sensor (Just Unhook?) Where is this even located? Fuel Temp Sensor (Just Unhook?) Power Transistor (Just splice around?) Idle-up Solenoid valve (Just omit?) EGR Control Solenoid valve (Just omit?) Air Regulator (Just omit?) Air Injection Valve (Just omit?) AIV Control Solenoid valve (Just omit?) I did find it interesting the FSM calls the MAF an AFM.

It's all good. You just like to do things the hard way! It's very likely the chain tensioner spring and or block has moved out of place and causing you to not have slack. I don't think you should have to untorque the head. I guess you will find out when you got to pull the cover! It is always best to snug the head bolts, put it all back together, check everything and then torque!

It's worth it. You will learn a lot, realize how simple it really is and know it is done right.

If the Cam is set correctly and the head is assembled correctly and you have it set at TDC #1 it likely just means the valve is open because the Cam is letting in the Fuel/Air mix for cylinder two. I've been here before myself. It is best to completely start from scratch as others have suggested. The lesson learned is before disassembling the head, set it at TDC #1. You can download all the FSM from http://www.xenons30.com/ that is where I pulled the pics from. You can also lightly put it all together; just snug the head bolts don't torque them and carefully rotate the entire assembly from the crank nut a specific # of turns. This way you can go back easily to double check everything.

http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/2417850266.html

I thought for sure there was a complete overhead pick of the valves when #1 was set at TDC in the FSM but I couldn't find it. Anyway cut and pasted this togehter:

It's just a logic thing! Well for the most part, I think 1,2,3,4. My wife 1,B,3,D. I go what? She goes don't you get it and I go no, hell, no! It's quite obvious that guy couldn't think! No harm in calling it what it is! Sympathy, no, empathy, maybe.

I can see the eBay title now, "Clean San Diego 280zx! See the video now on how well this car can out ran the CHP! Prior owner unavailable for comment." Old video though 1999.

Nah, it's just the internet! You're just old school is all!

It's good to see some pics with your personality! Page 12 was great! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/735451/1974-datsun-260z/page-12 In the 280zxt I cut up, I was shocked how much steel was in the roof. LOL!

Hey you still owe me a replacement Turbo banjo fitting!

No problem.