JSM

1. Grab the hatch lid and see if you can move it a little up and down, to see if it is welded on or not. I doubt it, but just to be sure check. 2. Spray the lock with some oil wd-40 or whatever you got and work the key back and forth to see if that opens it. 3. If not, lay in the back and remove the cover under the hatch. Just use a small pin to push the rivets into the trunk lid.Simply just push the center of the plastic rivet inwards. Remove the cover. Remove the linkage to the lock. Remove the retaining clip holding the lock down. Get out and remove the lock and simply use your finger or screw driver to push the clip down to open the hatch. There is not much to it.

Hey James, I have a P82 I'll let go for $100 plus shipping. It's bone stock.

Is the car above the same car as the one that was already painted or is that a different one altogether? Or are you posting out of order? I do like the green.

I laughed so hard when Jeremy said, what he did about muscle cars. I thought for sure Eric would have said something, nada, just a blank stare.

I know cygnusx1 posted on this in a thread via searching, but if you get some time watch it. Very inspirational. You have to register to watch it on Hulu, but here is the link.

Did you jump on Z31performance and check over there?

Wow that is a long wait! Always have 2 z's. One that is a beater you can at least drive to get your fix and another to work on. Your going to only pay for insurance on one until the other one is ready anyways.

John, with that in mind I'm assuming cages like this will not pass SCCA rules without heavy modification right. When they tech a car, how do they measure wall thickness in the tubes themselves?

What engine management you going with?

Very cool. I know, old post, but I just read about.

So after ALL this how many Electromotive units could you have purchased! Sorry I couldn't resist!

LOL that works too. Just keep a close eye on the parts car. Keep it handy just in case you need something.

I'm at a loss on how else to help you. It's difficult without being there. Different topic you need the green EFI relay. Don't cut it out.

There should be no wires going from the EFI relay to under the dash, they go to the Fusible link box. Your not talking about post #20 here are you? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/34469-a-quick-fi-and-ignition-280zxt-to-s30-turbo-swap-guide/ Also here is the harness blown up a bit. Look past the rubber gromet towards the ECU plugs. There is nothing else there attached to the harness. I think there is one more white plug that plugs into a silver control box on the 82/83 harness. I don't see it on this one and it is not used.

Thank you!

I'm assuming the battery is removed, you unscewed all the scews and unscewed the relay itself from the inner fender. From the EFI relay I believe there are two wires that go into the black fusible link box circled. You can either cut them or unclip the plug that leads to the box itself. You kind of have to work it to get the plug out of the box. You don't need any of the wires from the fusible link box. I'm not aware of any other wires from that area.

Thanks Tony. From memory anyone recall injector impedance on the 86 turbo? I believe the 84-86 are low and the 87-89 turbo are high. For the life of me I can't find it in the FSM.

Thanks Bernardd, I'm aware, I was planning on using turbo injectors for the final swap. I think I'll run it as if the turbo was there and if it runs rich for bit, so be it.

My only thought on this Tony was using the bigger turbo injectors at idle and their effect, 180 vs the 260. I have some NA injectors I could use too, but the turbo injectors are already installed. For the short time I plan on running this setup NA it's probably negligible for what I'm wanting to achieve. Sorry I didnt' state that in my initial post.

If your talking about the coil wires with the power transitor yes I cut those (drivers side). Those are integrated into the body harness.

You shouldn't have to do that much. It is simply screwed in place, the EFI relay. You must unscrew the fuse block also. Oh, you did remove the big rubber gromet right? It should just slide through the hole. You pulling from the inside of the car out right? If your trying to pull much more than this your pulling the wrong thing likely.

I'm going to be doing a 300zx Turbo ECU swap with the 300zx turbo harness too, instead of converting the 280zxt harness like everyone else seems to have done. For testing purposes, I'm not going to run the turbo at first. I'm going to eventually put the turbo on, however, to insure I've don'e all my wiring correctly I just want to throw the whole setup on my NA car as it is apart already and would be much easier to do. Aside from running rich can anyone think of why I shouldn't do this? Possible problems?

If it's open ended look outside of the state then. Arizona and California.

You did see this thread correct? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/34469-a-quick-fi-and-ignition-280zxt-to-s30-turbo-swap-guide/page__st__20 And this diagram is great.

Rats, now I have to come out of the closet about my sex dolls!