Danno74Z

Guys, I guess it's never to early to start thinking about ones exhaust system. I found this really cool site that will custom bend stainless steel exhaust pipe (any diameter) per your specifications without your car. The name of the company is Stainless Works out of Chagrin Falls, OH. In a nutshell, you purchase a kit from them that consists of flexible pipe and foam in a can. After laying out the exhaust with bends, straights, etc. you fill the flex pipe up with foam and after 15 min. you have a template (flex pipe with hard foam) of your new exhaust system. You then send Stainless the template and they work their magic. This sure sound interesting. Their web page is weak but here it is - http://www.stainlessworks.net/index.htm I just received their catalog and it explains the whole process. Enjoy

Frank, I did find this very interesting site. You can enter different values for tire size and offset. A before and after snapshot. http://www.tolan-hoechst.com/cars/tirecalc.htm Danno74Z

Pete, Thanks for fixing that for me. I knew I'd blow it trying to explain it. In Frank's example, I needed to add 1" to the width of the rim (the lip factor). If my math is correct, Frank's rim has a backspacing of approx. 5.57". And you are right about the inboard space it's very tight but I think I have found a good wheel to use with my coilovers.

Here are some formulas for you to figure backspacing or offset if you have one or the other. Offset = Backspace - (ovr.width / 2) Or: Backspace = Offset + (ovr. width / 2) E.g. for the wheels above (40mm offset=1.57") (mm x .03937) Backspace = 1.57" + (8" / 2) = 5.57" Approx. 5 9/16" Danno74Z [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited November 09, 2000).]

Brian, here is another site to check out. http://www.newtier.com/graber/z-car/ Danno74z Hey Rick, I checked out Featured Cars - your car is great!

Guys, Take a quick look at this site for rear brakes. http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/page6.htm#p6a Danno74Z

Evan, I've had your article bookmarked for sometime and always admired your car and good article. Sorry for not mentioning your name in my reply above. I have a couple questions. What offset and backspacing are your new 17x8 OZ monte carlos and are you still using the adapters? Thanks and again sorry for the oversight Danno74z

Hi Rick, No, I haven't done the swap yet. Fixing up the old barn (no lie) now a garage with heat and 220v service. I am also making a work bench and overhead storage cabinets - will it ever end! The tank I'm putting in is out of an early 300ZX turbo (19.5 gal). The tank has a nice symmetrical layout with the filler tube on the passenger side like our early Z's. This is a rectangular tank (shorter in length and a bit taller - not like ours with that weird shape). I will be removing the spare tire well and centering the new tank in that location. I have measured everything numerous times and this should work - we'll see, best lay plans. The tank I got was in fantastic shape - no dents or rust, and I got the entire unit (FI pump, sender, downspout and mounting straps). Since this is a Nissan part I can just get an electrical schematic and good to go. Things that I need to find out are the rating of the pump. Might not have enough pressure or volume for the LT1 engine. This does not sound insurmountable. One thing I liked about this tank is that it's set up for FI already and has all the tubes (out flow is big!) and it is Nissan product. This is an experiment. This winter I'M WORKING ON THIS CAR!!!!! Danno74Z

Mike, Here is another site/option to take a look at. http://www.howell-efi.com/ Danno74z

The r200LSD does not have a crush sleeve to set the preload like a 12bolt GM rearend. So to my knowledge you won't have a problem doing the swap. Just torque the pinion nut to spec. Danno74Z

The r200LSD does not have a crush sleeve to set the preload like 12bolt GM rearend. So to my knowledge you won't have a problem doing the swap. Just torque the pinion nut to spec. Danno74Z

Here is a site to try out for wheel adaptors and spacers. http://www.salesco.com/wheels/adapters.htm Another site http://www.zdriver.com/article2.htm Danno74Z [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited November 05, 2000).]

Chris, I also want to say thanks for the frame rail update. I will also be doing this to my car and the pictures and details really help. I was in Oakton, VA last weekend and I tried to linkup with Mike but everybody had things going on and I had to drive up to NYC to visit relatives. I did have a good phone conversation with Mike - One really nice guy! Take Care, Dan

Morgan, I'm using the Maxima bracket without issue. Mike Gibson, You say "you might as well forget about the maxima bracket" Why? I know this is your opinion but some explanation to back that up would be appreciated. What did you find? Facts please. Danno74Z

Morgan, Anyone know what the spacing is on the rear maxima brackets and/or stock front calipers? I have a new set of brackets (offset ones) and the bolt hole spacing is 4.5" center to center Danno74Z

Pete/Chris, Thanks guys for the input on the rotisserie. Pete, I think it looks fine and it works! You should start a HybridZ tool rental program. Only kidding. I found another guy who built one to restore his Mustang. This one is more money but not a ton. http://autorestorer.com/articles/art106.html Danno74Z

Guys, Thanks for all you input on the weight of the shell. The reason for the question is because I need to do some floor board repair and really cleanup the bottom of the car and to see if there is other rust in hiding. Laying on my back for god knows how long scraping and wire brushing is not the most appealing thought and now that winter is coming on……I may do a rotisserie like Pete did. Has any one else done this sort of thing? Pro, Cons ? If the shell is let's say 1,000lbs - 600 rear and 400 front, I should be able to rig something up without destroying the body or myself. Just toying with the idea. Pete, since you have done this procedure any regrets and did you remove all the glass prior to the big flip. Thanks, Danno74Z

Pete/All, Does anybody know how much the unibody weights minus the engine, transmission, front and rear end - basically the shell. Thanks, Danno74Z

Guys, I found this site for welding equipment awhile ago. I have talked to them and they are very good and the prices are excellent on name brand machines. They also have free shipping. http://www.welders-direct.com/

Pete, What's the distance from the top surface of the camber plate (that rests against the underside of the strut tower) and the bottom of the TOP spring perch (that the spring top rest against)? The distance is 1-1/4". I measured twice. Danno

Pete, I think you might be right on being able to use the 10" springs. I measured the original spring setup (spring, top and bottom perch) and it's 14 ¼" long. The new GC setup (spring, camber plate, top and bottom seats) measured in the same way is 12 ¼". So I may be able to do this. What do you think? Dan

Chris, Thanks for the detailed explanation on your frame rail work. As John Belushi said in "The Blues Brothers" movie, I have seen the light. Can't wait to see some pics. when you post them! I will be in VA (Oakton area) at the end of this month to visit my sister and her family. At the same time, Mike and I are planning to try and get together (got to see his machine). Perhaps, you can join use if you have the time. Dan

Pete/Mike, Thanks for all your help and the rest of the HZ crew. I haven't said this in awhile but everybody out there has been a real inspiration. In my case, I got the cart before the horse - disassemble the rear end really before I should of - live and learn. Anyway, I have GC plates and coilovers with 10" springs. I may not be able to use the springs (rear) with 9x17rims. Not a costly mistake because I may be able to use them in the front. Dan

Hi Pete, Reading through your responses and web page you use 8" coilover springs in the back and the original stock 240Z strut top cushions and spring seats. My question is, I plan on using camber plates on all four corners on my car and I was wondering if I could use a longer ( than 8" ) springs in the back. I want to use 9"x17" rims in the rear. Camber plates do give one more "head" room vs. the original seat and cushions. Any thoughts or opinions? I do like the picture you added to your web site. Could you do the same for the rear? Very helpful. Thank you, Danno74Z (Dan)

Chris, I'm trying to visualize what you and your Dad did on the new frame rails. How did you tie the new member in to the existing structure in the front and rear areas? Can you write up a little more detailed information in this procedure. Also: 4' long 90* bends out of .055 sheet metal with one side being 1" wide and the other being 1/2" wide. Which side , the 1" or ½" did you weld to the floor? Thanks, Danno74Z