Danno74Z

FYI - I found this site and this CO. builds rollbars and lots of other things. http://www.cachassisworks.com/ Danno74Z

Mark, A quick question on your rims. How much room do you have left (in the rear) between your tires and springs, and if you wanted, could you have fitted a 9" x 17" inch rim in the back using the 15P offset. Thanks - How about those Australian Swimmers! Kick some butt. Danno74Z [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited September 27, 2000).] [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited September 27, 2000).]

Mike, I also am struggling with the same questions. I have the complete rear-end out of the car and took a couple of measurements this morning. I placed a straight edge on the wheel mounting flange and then measured across to the existing lower spring perch. This dimension is 5.125". I also measured the diameter of a 14" rim with a 195 tire on it and go 24.5". I ran out of time, but if my memory is correct the existing tire and rim places the tire (the bulge) centerline next to the existing lower perch. Tonight, I will mount my tire back on get an exact measurement of the distance between the spring and tire but I think its about ½ " or less. At work I took a peek at two cars in the parking lot and got a mix bag on spring locations. One Eagle Talon had the springs above the tires and an Accura were below the top of the rims. Both vehicles appeared to have plenty of room to upsize rims and/or tires. If I follow the directions from GC and place the lower spring perch where they suggest - 5.5" up from the base of the strut tube (rear). This should place the spring below the rim of the wheel and tire. All this needs to be verified. Danno74Z

Hi Guys, I ordered this part through a local Nissan dealer (he gave me a very good deal) and the part # is 44155-04S10. I went to our local yard and no Maxima's were available that had the bolt on brackets just weld on types. 1982 and part of 83 the bolt-on brackets were used, I don't know about 1981. These are "very" well made and fit perfectly - yes!!! I naturally had to pop out the stub axle (there is a spacer in there to pre-load the bearings - don't loose it) and remove the old drum setup. The caliper bracket went on like it was made for my 74 260Z. I did need long bolts to mount the bracket and I Loctite them to play it safe. I have read on other posts that machining and redrilling needs to be done to the bracket but this is not the case, at least not on the early 260. The caliper bolt spacing to mount the caliper to the bracket is 4.5" which seems to be a little odd. Most spacings are 3.5" inches or 5.12". I have a set of 1982zx turbo calipers and they bolt right up but I'm still looking some. Getting those brackets off in a wreaking yard will be a challenge. One needs to remove a lot of hard stuff to even get at the brackets. But not impossible. Danno74Z go to this link below to see the bracket in place. http://www.ideal-z.com/howto/rearbrake.htm [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited September 07, 2000).]

Mike kZ, Since I'm working on the rear of the my car first can you tell me how much you cut the strut tubes back there, if any. And the overall dia. of the wheels that you use on your car. Any problems with the tires hitting the weld on lower spring perch. Thanks Danno74Z [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited September 06, 2000).] [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited September 06, 2000).]

John, I found this information on torque specifications in my 1993-1997 Camaro Haynes Manual. Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts...15FT-lbs. (then turn an additional 30-degrees) A little strange on this but that's what it says. Flywheel/driveplate................74FT-lbs. Hope this helps out. Danno

Hi Mike, I talked to these folks (very nice) about wheels and they can get you the correct offset for the Z. However, I'm still in the hunt for wheels and tires. Just not at that point yet. Danno http://www.ttrsracing.com/revolution.htm

All, I went through a learning experience with the coilover setup which I would like to pass along. I originally purchased Design Racing Products ( out of CA ) camber plates. Very good quality and well made - great right - well not so fast. I ordered Tokico Illumina struts from another source and when they arrived I started on the rear suspension and stopped dead in my tracks. Here is the problem in using this brand of Camber/strut combo. The spherical bearing used in the DP plates has a 7/16" ID the Tokico Illumina strut shaft OD is approx. ¾". After making numerous calls and weighing the alternatives - not many, I returned the DP plates and am currently waiting for the Ground Control camber plates. The person I spoke to at GC (very nice and informative - need more businesses like them) said the Illumina's will fit their camber plates. I haven't received them yet so this still needs to be confirmed. My alternative, which DP said they would do (more $$) was to turn the shafts down on my new Tokico's (void any warrantee - I called Tokico). So if folks want to use DP camber plates go with a different strut and make sure you know the shafts dimension - not all the same - please someone tell me why not! Hopefully, this information will help others contemplating coilovers and some of the gotcha's. Danno74Z

Thanks for the info. so far - keep them coming. Wow 5 way adj. you lucky dog Danno

Just a quick question to the group. I did a search on what shock/struts folks are using but I really did not find the information I was looking for. So, the question is, what type/brand of shocks/struts are people using in their HybridZ's. Pros and Cons but please not debates - just information. Thank You, Danno74Z PS. Is anybody using Koni struts? [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited July 20, 2000).]

Brian, Here is a site that sells pans and rails - give him a try. Danno74Z http://web.ctsolutions.com/zeddfind/table1.html

Zed, This might be somewhat cryptic to read but I was able to find some info. for you on the Tokico struts for the Z car. Danno74z Tokico HP Struts Application Front Sell Rear Sell NISSAN 200 SX 95-00 HB2194/2195 $93.85 HU2933 $62.08 240 SX 95-99 HB 3153/3154 $101.08 HU 3728 $69.30 240 SX 89-94 HB 3035/3036 $101.08 HU 2832 $57.74 240Z/260Z 70-74.5 HZ 3015 $61.35 HZ 3016 $61.35 260Z/280Z 74.5-78 HZ 3012 $61.35 HZ 3013 $61.35 280Z 79-83 HZ 3038 $61.35 HU 2286 $54.85 300 ZX Non-Turbo HU 3429/3430 $69.30 HU 3431 $64.97 90-96 300 ZX (Adj.) Turbo 90-96 300 ZX (Non Adj. Susp.) HZ 3100 $61.35 HE 2740 $36.08 84-89 300 ZX (Non Adj. Susp. - HE 2740 $36.08 Turbo) 88-89 300 ZX (Adj. Susp.) (Turbo) - - 84-89 Tokico Illumina Struts Application Front Sell Rear Sell NISSAN 240/260Z 70-74.5 BZ 3015 $122.74 BZ 3016 $122.74 260/280Z 74.5-78 HZ 3012 $61.35 BZ 3013 $122.74 280 ZX 79-83 BZ 3038 $122.74 BU 2622 $108.30 300 ZX (Adj.) Turbo 90-96 BU 3429/3430 $117.37 BU 3431 $117.37 300 ZX (Non Adj. Susp.) BZ 3100 $122.74* BE 2740 $98.91 84-89 300 ZX (Non Adj. Susp. - BE 2740 $98.91 Turbo) 88-89 300 ZX (Adj. Susp.) BZ 4005 $129.97 BE 2740 $98.91 (Turbo) 84-89

Brad, I understand what you're going through. I too had to swallow hard on the cost of the LT1 but like all the other members have said time and again Quality Costs and it really doesn't matter what engine you ultimately use in you car. I went with the LT1/T56 combo and hit the $4K mark. I spent more then I wanted to but I have an engine with only 3k miles on it and the tranny has 15k miles. I originally thought I could do both for $2500 but that was unrealistic. If you can find an engine for less than $2500 be very leery of its quality and how much life is left in it. This goes for the transmission as well. Below is a link to Ebay and periodically "I" see some interesting stuff - you might consider this in your build. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380233207&r=0&t=0 Danno74z

I purchased my LT1 engine and T56 from HP and both were in excellent shape. Mark (the owner) is a good guy and willing to help in any way. MHO Danno74Z

Chris, I to have been looking at wheels and fitment on my 260Z and have talked to both companies (k-speed & salesco). I'm not very knowledgeable in this area but this is what I've found out. The Panasports come in many different diameters but the largest width is 7 inches. This being the case you are probable limited to a 225 x 16 inch tire. Not very big for a V8Z car. Below is the e-mail response I received from Salesco; "Thank you for your inquiry to Salesco Wheel Dept. The following is a brief overview of our procedures, for further information call toll free 1-800-407-8665 10 to 5 Los Angeles Time, Ask for John he is our wheel broker. All wheels are shipped promptly after the order is received usually within a few days. Shipping charges start at $48.50 for a set of 4. Most wheels you see on our web site are ready for immediate shipment. All fitment is doubled checked for accuracy by our wheel broker who has over 20 years experience in fitment problems. Tire packages are available and the wheels come with tires mounted and balanced ready to bolt on. Call for more information Most information you need is on our web site http://www.salesco.com/wheels including price and sizes availability. Remember if you have any questions call toll free 800-407-8665 or if you are out of the country 909-394-7790, sometimes all lines are busy on the 800 number for an immediate response use 909-394-7790 this number goes right into the wheel dept." I have not called "John" - got sidetracked but if you do call him please let us know what he says. Thanks, Danno74Z

Myron, I'm sure you have seen this before but go to this site - pictures of both diff. side by side. Go a 1/3 down the page to see the pics. http://www.clanlittle.com/engine.html Danno74Z

Fast Frog, I too plan on putting in a 2.5" exhaust system and since, for now, I'm concentrating my efforts at the rear of the car I'm looking at alternative fuel tanks. This is what I'm "planning" on doing. I don't know if this will work but I'm going to give it a try. Many folks, either alter or remove the spare tire well to ease the fit of a duel exhaust system into the Z. Later this summer, I'm going to remove the donut and put in a tank from a 1986 turbo Z. I got the tank from a salvage yard in NM.. The tank is complete ( I asked for everything.) What is nice, is that the filler and downspout are on the passenger side just like our 240,260,280 cars. But what is real nice is that when I crawled under a mid 80's Z (parking lot at work - got permission - guy thought my request a bit odd) the tank is situated in the middle of the car with a long downspout to the center section of the side of the tank. "Our" old tank has the following approximate dimensions; depth - 6"-13" depending on the side, width - 18" and length is 35". The new tank dimensions are; depth 11", width - 21" and the length is 30". For the most part, the new tank is symmetrical with no real odd ball pattern to it. Like I said, I got the tank, all the gaskets, downspout, filler opening, straps sending unit and the pump. I'm going to try and use the in tank pump for the fuel injection system on the LT1, but this pump may not have enough pressure or capacity for the new V8. I will most likely use an after market external pump made for the LT1. We'll see. Locating the new tank in the center rear area should allow enough room for duel mufflers and allow proper venting and filling of the tank. Also, this tank is setup for fuel injection, so I don't have to invent anything to make it work for my application. An added benefit is that the new tank is 19 gals. vs 16 gals. Naturally, I know I will run into snags but probably no more than fitting in a fuel cell and its issues. If any other member has done a swap like this please let me know. But I may be braking new ground here. This should work. Danno74Z

I too found an IRS (not taxes). I did not spend a lot of time at the site - late, but I sure do wonder.... Danno74Z www.cwiinc.com/ This is the big "Champ" quickchange rated at over 750 hp. Monster Man check this out! [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited June 07, 2000).]

Pete, I thought the axle was fixed on the end that goes into the differential. The diff. end could pivot i.e. a u-joint, but the opposite end that has the tripod joint could pivot but also slide in and out. I did not think the axle actually floated between the two joints. Danno

Does anybody know by chance what the purpose of the small spring is underneath the dustcap at the end of CV joint. Thanks, Danno

Brian, I asked the same question to Mr. Solace President of Sanderson because I too have the LT1 engine. Here is part of his reply. Don't forget about that knock sensor! One source for you. Danno "No Zoomies ... look at the #CC2, #CC3, #CC90 at: http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson7.htm You can order online, but specify the engine/heads you are using to make sure we get you the ones with the correct flange. Otherwise, just call to order". Samuel A. Solace - president http://www.centuryperformance.com phone: (775) 746-4887 fax: (775) 746-4889

Just a heads-up for all considering the T56 swap. In next month edition of Chevy High Performance mag. (Aug. on sale June 20th) there will be an article on the T56 Six-speed Swap update. Danno74Z

All, The new issue of Car Craft (June) has a very nice spread on manual transmissions starting on page 50. Good sources at the end of the article. Also, look on page 14 in the lower left. A MGB with a .....you guess. Danno74Z

mattrp, Quick question on your coil-overs. Did you also install GC's camber plates with your new coil-overs? When I called GC, the person I talked to (can't remember his name) recommended against using them because of the noise they transmit into the car. Thanks

Thanks guys for all the input on wheel and tire combinations. I feel this information could help a lot of builders so if there are others out there with information please feel free to chime in with data. Pete, you mentioned that your rear rims were "17x9s with 149mm backspacing". I'm trying to determine the offset of your wheels. I did some math, "scary" and this is what I came up with. 9inches = 229mm 229/2 = 114.5 per side of centerline of wheel (fudge factor for lip) 149-115 = 34 mm positive offset 34mm = 1.34 inches 34mm seems high for our type car. Did I make a mistake in calculating the offset. Thanks, Danno