Danno74Z

Morgan/SCCA, Thanks for the support on this. I will have Rob (a mechanical engineer with a V8Z) over to the house this weekend and perhaps he and I both can come up with something. Having a fresh set of eyes on a problem really helps. I like the Z32 setup its cheap, readily available and most of all I think it's a good brake system. Danno

Morgan, I don't know about the Z32 rotor offset, it may be too large because of the use of the internal parking bake system but I will check it out for you tonight and report back. Maybe SCCA knows. SCCA, Your are correct in the cost factor, could be very high but what "good" brake components aren't - It's only your life or someone else's if you brakes fail. I don't have to tell you being a semi-professional race driver. I did look in the Coleman Racing Cat. and they have 7 pages devoted to rotors with lots of different offsets and diameters. They also have a custom rotor and hat design service if needed. I looked through both Wilwood and Baer catalogs and they also offer custom service and Wilwood must have over 100 different rotors for various cars. Will they work - I'm sure one or two will. In every major city ( In Denver for sure) there are hotrod and racing part stores. I was thinking of using a Ford rotor since I now have that bolt pattern. Out of the all the Ford vehicles available with disk brakes I'm sure a one or two will also fit my needs its just trying to figure that out. Danno74Z

Hi Mike, Yes indeed. I have been writing and talking with lots of different wheel manufactures and very few makes 16" or 17" wheels for our car. One has to go to a 2 or 3 piece modular wheel and spend $400-$600 to get the fitment one needs. I even called ROH in Australia and they will custom make a rim for me but the costs were outrageous. This is not a $100K car. And if you happen to damage one you are really SOL. You mentioned above the number of Z's on the road. Unfortunately, it is but a drop in the ocean compared to the millions of current FWD cars being built. I don't want to rain on your parade but the only way to "help" our situation is to go to 5lug and this will open up a few more doors for you. I am doing this to the rears now and have the 5lug hubs for the fronts. My new wheels are on order and should be here in 4weeks. Danno74Z

Morgan, Cutting down the small drum shoes would not work. The little drum shoes are approximately 1" wide now and bonded to a steel plate like its big brother. If you remove ½" of material your left with a very marginal pad. Besides its not the pads that stick out so much but the entire backing plate that everything is attached to. The backing plate has a slight bulge to it because of the room that is needed to offset the little drums and adjustment screws. The Maxima bracket will work if you can find them new or used. As someone else mentioned years ago you can weld a bracket on. I have the bolt on brackets so I'm using them. There are numerous hot rod supply companies that sell every imaginable rotor in any size, offset and shape (vented, slotted, etc.) Danno74z

Morgan/Al Sorry to report that the "hat" parking brake mechanism will not work on our older Z cars - a real bummer for sure. The problem being that one does not have enough offset from the mounting bracket to the face of the stub axle flange. The offset is 2.125 and to make this work one needs about 2.5" and this is without the Maxima bracket installed. If the bracket is installed you really need about 3" because its .5" thick. The Maxima bracket fits fine on the hub and bolts up perfectly, I even had the caliper mounted to the bracket to take my measurements. So the "hat" parking brake system as it stands right now will not work with our Z's No way no how. So we are not quite back to square one. I am going to use the caliper, bracket and a rotor that has the right diameter and offset. I will then have to rig up a spot mechanical caliper for a parking brake. A good learning experience even though the end result wasn't what I hoping for. Danno74Z [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited January 09, 2001).]

SCCA, "i was pretty sure the Maxima bracket wouldn’t work as the solid rotor is closer to 10" and couldn’t see how the same bracket would work for a rotor over 11"." If you were so sure it would not work how come you never mentioned it. It is very easy to be a critic but if you have information why don't you offer it to the group instead of being so secretive. I'm sorry I just don't understand that attitude. I think the Z32 rear brake system will work on the older Z perhaps now with some refinements. Number 4 above you tried virtually every rear setup - OK, have you tried the Z32? If you have, what will and what won’t work other then the Maxima bracket. Please share your knowledge isn’t this the reason for HybridZ and being a member. Danno74Z

Morgan, The Z32 rotor is 11.6875 inches in dia. And yes the calipers and rotors fit fine. Is the caliper/rotor offset correct? I can't answer this one yet because the stub axles are out of the carrier. Maybe tomorrow I will bang one side back in and see what it look like. Danno74Z

Well, we all knew it was going to be a cakewalk. The rotors are just too big in diameter for the Maxima bracket - #$%&. When I got home from work I went out to the shop and pulled off the rear drum setup. The Maxima bracket went on perfectly but when I put the backing plate on with the mini drums the "ears" on the Maxima bracket did not clear. I put the rotor over everything and then the caliper without pads and knew immediately I was short or steel. I'm guessing the rotor is about ½" inch too big (too big!). I need to find out what the diameter of Maxima rotor is and compare it to the '92 300ZX one and go from there. I guess I could have a little steel removed from the 300ZX rotor. Has any one done this to a rotor and is it bad to do? Live and learn and have a little fun along the way right. SCCA The Maxima bracket is ½" thick steel. Danno74Z

All, You bet guys. I will start into it on Sunday and report back. I don't have a web page to post pictures but Mike and Pete have been kind enough to post my drawing of the Maxima bracket, perhaps they can help me with the photos. Hey Mike or Pete can you help me out? Danno74Z

Morgan, I wrote to you a couple of weeks ago about this and the experimentation I was going to do, well my Z32 brakes parts finally arrived yesterday and I think I have some good news for you (I think). I had the salvage yard send me the entire braking system off of a 92 300ZX - front and rear ($300 with shipping). Let me first say, I haven't done the acid test yet but let me tell you what I do know at this point. The rear caliper fits the maxima bracket perfectly and the emergency brake is a small internal drum setup that uses the hat of the rotor as a drum - cool. The emergency drum (E.D.) pads are about 1" wide and about 8" long and naturally curved. I don't have the existing rear brake drum system pulled apart yet but I do have the stub axles pulled and lugs out except for one. Briefly, this morning I placed the new system next to the old and took some measurements. I have to say this system looks like a direct bolt on with very little modifications to make work. The small E.D. system uses a backing plate (most people toss) very similar to the old drum system. The new backing plate holds the little pads with springs and adjusts like a drum brake. The plate is held on by four bolts that also attach the maxima bracket. The new backing plate will have to be redrilled but no big deal (the four holes are not exactly the same dimensionally center to center as the existing ones on the 260). I had the salvage yard send me the emergency brake cables and hardware. At this time I have no idea if the existing cables will work or if I can use the 300ZX ones. The calipers look stout to me and have raised embossed letters - Nissan. The rotors are a little over ¾" thick, vented and ~11 ¾" in diameter - not to bad at all. I need to have them turned but other than that seem to be perfect. I took some pictures of the parts and I will send them to you. I will hit it hard on Sunday and keep you posted if I hit some snags. Danno260Z P.S. The rotor does fit over the pilot bore perfectly (that raised area in the center of the stub axle) so no machining will be needed here. I used the one lug nut as a guide. I will also use the rotor as a guide (and transfer punch) to have the stub axle drilled out for the remaining 4 lug holes. This will be done by a friend who is a machinist using a drill press.

Mike, Unfortunately for us about the selection and availability of 16" Z rated tires. Like you mentioned the added cost factor in going to 17" wheels definitely hurts the wallet. Sounds like a conspiracy to me. Build a 17" inch wheel (eliminate or limit 15" - 16" rims and tires) and they will have to buy them - right. The costs just keep on going up and up... Danno74Z

Mike, Happy 2001 to you. Questions - Are you using camber plates and if you are will you be using GC's? Are you using 250lbs on all for corners and what length springs? Do you know at this time where and how much your cutting the strut tubes? Thanks, Dan

Hi Chris, Thanks for the update on the fronts. Since I'm working on the rear suspension can you give us an update on those adjustable control arms. Danno74Z

Mike/Pete, I have read through all 27 replies twice now and I'm still confused on what or what not to do on a 95% of the time street Z car concerning coilovers and camber plates. I know putting the coilovers on the car will stiffen the ride and putting camber plates on will transmit road noise - this is a given. Whether the harshness of the ride or interior road noise is unbearable seems too subjective to give a definitive reply. But can you gentleman give a synopses based on your experiences with the use of camber plates and coilovers. And also, cut, not to cut and where to cut the strut tubes. Perhaps since the both of you live relatively close to each other you can talk, agree or disagree on each item, and report back to the group. I think this would help TREMENDOUSLY on clearing up some key issues. I love this thread and all the replies but to form an opinion on what works based on a lot of subjectivity is hard for me and perhaps others. Again, this is for a street Z with 16" wheels with a performance suspension in mind. Thanks Guys, Danno74Z

Pete, I'm just kidding and you are 100% correct on the added traction gain. All of the above posts are great! This stuff is really interesting. I have to admit, I did purchase a spare set of strut tubes for all four corners just incase I really mess things up. Danno74Z

"I'm sure I can get a measurement by lowering the back end with the jack. From the rocker - what's stock ride height?" I'm not sure this will help you, but I measured my early 260Z which is bone stock except for the wheels and tires (195-70-14) and the height(front)from the concrete floor to the top of the bumper next to the bumper mounting locations is 19.45" and in the rear, measured in the same manner is 20.85". Now, depending on your original tire size (aspect ratio) naturally this will raise or lower your car. One measurement I did not make is from the floor to the highest point on the roof line and according to the Haynes book it should be 50.6" for the 260Z and 50.5" for the 240Z. This is a hard measurement to get by yourself and truthfully I forgot to do it. As a side note, the original 260Z came with 175HR-14 5j-pressed steel rims. I assume this is a 70 series aspect ratio. So based on my calculations and by using the bigger tire (195), I raised the vehicle about 1/2" from stock condition. I don't think too may Z's still have 175 on them. The original tires have a diameter of 23.65" my tires are 24.75". I'm going in the wrong direction! Danno74Z

As Pete mentioned above the turbo LSD is becoming rare, pricey and if you do find one chances are good its seen lots of miles with a clutch replacement due when you start hitting it with the torque of a V8. As an "alternative" below is a site you might find interesting and some prices for there LSD units. Get yourself some CV axles, pop them in to your new LSD and follow Pete's technical article on doing the LSD swap at the companion flange end and you should be good to go - both rear wheels. This is not a cheap alternative but the Quaife LSD is to my understanding bulletproof. Danno74Z http://www.quaifeusa.com/ Nissan - R180 (240-280Z) 110mm ID ring gear $1,395.00 Nissan - R180 (240-280Z) 115mm ID ring gear $1,395.00 Nissan - R200 (280-300Z) fits both 10mm and 12mm ring gear bolts $1,395.00

Thanks for placing this on your web site for me. In addition, Pete was also going to get this on his site. He also added some material up by the inside "ears" to beef up the support in that area. In actuality this added material is indeed how the real part looks. I forgot to put the inner radius in the drawing. Everything else should be OK. Dan

Holley does have an application for the LT1. Dan Holley has a commander 950 engine management system kit for LT1 engines p/n 950-105 . This kit contains the commander ecu,wire harness,o2sensor,map sensor,software.You use the oem fuelrail,intake,sensors,injectors,etc . The commander system is a stand alone fuel and spark management system.It wont control trans,crusie,a/c,etc. Thanks Chris ...

I don?t know if this is the same article your read but I will try and hit the highlights from CHP. Hardware parameters Screen: 950 allows 4,6, or 8cylinders, open or closed loop control, elec. fan control, map sensor for supercharged applications 1, 2, 3 bar up to 40psi, rev lim. Fuel pump prime setting. Fuel Map Screen: 256 separate data points, Idle Air Control Position, O2 scale, modify each cell or the entire map by a %, rpm scale is programmable, cold start enrichment, acceleration enrichment, nitrous fuel additions, fuel map can be displayed graphically and rotated. Spark Map Screen: Similar to fuel map, load from idle to WOT (all graphically displayed), load rpm, knock control. Datalogger Screen: Can record and play back rpm, injector pulse width, map sensor voltages, and TPS voltages, Nitrous Screen: Commander 950 can digitally control the nitrous based on your inputs. Wet or Dry types or nitrous. Acceleration Enrichment Screen: TPS and Map based from idle to WOT, under load or no load. Closed Loop Screen: Use an O2 sensor to adj. Injector pulse width to established the desired 14.7: 1 air-fuel ratio. 950-103 retro-fit kit for any single-plane intake 950-101 GM TPI ?85-?91 950-102 GM LS1 534-134 Wiring harness Cooling Fans 534-135 Wiring harness Knock sensor 534-138 Wiring harness for HEI dist. *** No LT1 application. I wrote to Holley asking why not.

I just Received my Feb. 2001 edition of Chevy Performance and they had an article on Holly's Commander 950 Multi-Point Fuel Injection System. The article went through and explained the main features of this system and I have to say that this product really looks good. Hopefully, someone in our membership has tried this new system or knows someone who has. Any hands on feed back would be great. Here is a link to the Holly page that has the Commander 950 EFI system: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/C950/C950.html Like to here what you think. Danno74z

I just Received my Feb. 2001 edition of Chevy Performance and they had an article on Holly's Commander 950 Multi-Point Fuel Injection System. The article went through and explained the main features of this system and I have to say that this product really looks good. Hopefully, someone in our membership has tried this new system or knows someone who has. Any hands on feed back would be great. Here is a link to the Holly page that has the Commander 950 EFI system: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/C950/C950.html Like to here what you think. Danno74z

Hi Mike, I'd venture to say that better than 90% of the members have cracked and weathered dashboards. New replacements run anywhere from $700 to $850. How about a carbon fiber dash - no covers but a real dash replacement! Since Christmas is around the corner that is on my wish list. Danno74Z

Mike and Chris, This is great. What is your SWAG on build time for the front and the rear.And when you have a mule set made can you post some pictures. Danno74Z

Mike, The control arms your considering building, will these be like Simon's (custom) or using OEM control arms and Modifying them? Danno74Z