Danno74Z

All, Here is a web site that sells welders online. www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv The Lincoln SP-175 Plus ($725) can weld material from 24g to 5/16" This unit is perhaps a little too much $ for some folks but I have my eye on it. Tools.... Danno74Z

BLKMGK,Scottie I emailed you both a couple of JPG's of the brake layout of the 74-260Z. It shows where the NP valve is located and other components of the brake system. These come from the Factory Manual for my car. I don’t know if they are representational for the 240Z or the 280Z. Danno74Z

Scottie, I know all to well how days if not weeks just whistle by and we don’t get to work on our “project” (as the significant other calls it). I also had to build a garage to work on the “project”. Anyway a quick question on your proportioning valve and it’s hookup. Did you remove the original one that’s in the engine compartment or are you using the new one in tandem with the original? What is recommended when upgrading to disks in the rear? Thank you, Danno74Z

Get well friend. Danno74Z

Very nice indeed. This car brings back many fond memories. Back in the mid seventies and early eighties I had a 1967 SPL 311 with the 1600 motor and 4 speed. I found the car in a used car lot (way in the back with a tap over it) one day while poking around. I made the dealer an offer of $100.00 and he said it’s yours. The tranny was shot and the motor burned oil like an old tug boat and when I drove it home my dad just shook his head and said put it in the garage before your mother has a chance to see it. Well to make a long story short. I had the tranny rebuilt while I did the motor and completely went through the car and had it painted fire engine red. That car ran for five long years while making numerous trips from NJ to CO during my college years. That little motor put out around 100hp but the car was very light. What a hoot to drive! I can’t imagine the performance of a V8 in that car. Having had a little 1600 roadster, I can now appreciate what a LT1 V8 will be like in my 260Z. Danno74Z

Hi Mike, Thanks for the update on the rear control arms. I have a quick question. Does the new arm use all the existing hardware and bushings to mount up to the suspension i.e. the transverse link bolts and the notorious spindle. I'm just trying to think ahead to see if I need to order 2 new spindles as mine have never been removed. From past posts those usually get destroyed on removal. Danno74Z [ October 02, 2001: Message edited by: Danno74Z ]

Owen, I emailed you some info. Danno74Z

Ross is correct above and I would like to add just a few things. You need custom brackets for the calipers (front and rear) to use Z32 parts on the Z. To my knowledge one can use the rear rotors but again not a direct fit. The front rotors will not fit without major machine work and at that I'm not sure. Also, the rear emergency brake system on the Z32 will not work on the older Z. So in a nut shell, purchase a complete system from the members here at HybridZ - money well spent and a lot fewer headaches. IMHO Danno74Z

Mike, Thank you for the update and naturally have a great time on your honeymoon Danno74Z

I used a tie rod removal tool to pop out the shafts - very easy job for a change. At that time I did not have a big screwdriver so I improvised with the tie rod tool, and it might be a better choice if you own one. I did exactly what everyone else has by using the case to pop them out. With the TR tool because its flared along its edge it fit very snug between the two pieces and you have a lot of leverage. I was careful not to crush the dust cover on the diff and I rotated the shaft so that I was resting on one of the studs of the half shaft. With a quick push on the wedged bar one side popped (You've Got POP - too much TNN). The other side came out much easier for some reason. Danno74Z [ September 08, 2001: Message edited by: Danno74Z ]

Well I was beginning to wonder if I was the only one having issues fitting the GenII -LT1 engine or the LS1 into the engine bay in the setback position. The Datsun engine mounting towers in conjunction with the setback plates make for a very challenging install because of the location of the accessories on these engines. Another alternative is to use the Corvette (92-96) accessories and mounting bracket. One needs the harmonic balancer, alternator, serpentine belt, and AC compressor if you want AC. This is a direct bolt-on to the Camaro/Firebird LT1 engine and it will fit into our Z’s The new setup puts the accessories on the driver’s side of the engine and just slightly above the valve cover. I have priced this new setup out and used components run about $500 complete. W/O ac and the price drops a lot. With this new setup you can now use all the JTR plates etc. as normal. Granted this makes for a more expensive conversion, but one does not have to deal with fabbing up a new crossmember or putting unnecessary stress on the frame rails which they were not really designed to hold. It also sounds like the steering linkage becomes an issue with a new crossmember so one has to weigh that problem. Anything can be made to work with enough perspiration but I’m looking at this alternative real hard Danno74Z

BlueovalZ and Mike C, I have looked and research the crush sleeve and nowhere or know one made mention of this sleeve being in the R200 differential. Perhaps a member who has torn into one for repair can confirm this. Danno74Z

blueovalz, A quick question. "I had to swap the flange from one differential to the other". Any thing special about swapping pinion flanges ( Datsun Diff) other then getting the correct torque value set on the pinion nut. Thanks, Danno74Z

Mike, Thanks for the update on the control arms. Don't work too hard on them - it's Labor Day weekend ya know. Thanks for the effort! Danno74Z

Lone Star 1, Question. I'm using the LT1 engine not the LS1 but I believe the same basic problem exists for both motors concerning the location of the AC compressor. First, are you using the stock GM AC compressor? I'm assuming you are living in TX. Second, how did you use the JTR setback plate on the passenger side with the compressor smack in the way? Last, what motor mounts did you use? Thanks, Danno74Z

Pete, Yes, the Nordskog Competition's V8 swap Kit put the engine in the Scarab position. At the time it was in production it cost $1800 and was designed around the Chevy 350 and the TH350 tranny. This kit had everything one needed to put a v8 into a Z car. The kit even used the existing Datsun transmission mounting points for example. Preaty amazing for the time period. I don't know if this is the same company or someone bought the company name but the old name and address was Nordskog Competition Center, 15917 Strathern, Van Nuys, CA 91406 818.787.7890. It would be funny if it was the same outfit. Danno74Z [ August 14, 2001: Message edited by: Danno74Z ]

I went to a place that sells landscape materials such as bulk rock, mulch, and fertilizer. When I pulled up in the 74 260Z (2610lbs w/o me.) I asked to have my car weighed and the lady just laughed and said sure - no charge. The scale by law is very accurate (<10lbs in 1,000lbs) because of the commercial business so here is another place to get your car weighed. Also, most drag strips have scales but they generally cost. Danno74Z

I have two R200 differentials one open the other a LSD. The LSD unit has quite a bit of backlash while turning the pinion back and forth and I have no idea if this is normal or not. On my open R200 while doing the same test there is no noticeable "slop" at all. First, Can this backlash be eliminated from the LSD unit if this is not normal and second, how hard is it to remove the LSD unit from one diff. and put it in the good one. Can this be accomplished by the do-it-yourselfer without a ton of special tools.

Mike C Thank you for the information. Danno74Z

Hey PhD student in Basket Weaving thanks for the helpful information smart guy. Danno74Z

I have a very basic question and perhaps dumb. I have not changed out my struts yet but I know bump stops exist - where are they located and how do you change them out? Thanks Danno74Z

Mike KZ, I own the '95 HELM manual on the F body and tried to see if a chart existed on troubleshooting the T56 but no luck. Lots of pictures and specs on how the thing goes together and should be serviced. (If you need any info on it let me know) I did go into the clutch section and a chart existed but your specific problem was not addressed. From you initial description; I personally don't think the tranny is at fault but the clutch IMO. Something is obviously binding in that area. Are you sure you’re getting total clutch disengagement? It is a known fact that the tolerances for this tranny/clutch arrangement are extremely critical with really no room for error. Your comment on the wheels spinning in neutral is a key point. Perhaps you could post this problem on one of the F-Body sites. With all the T-56's out there, maybe this is a more common problem then we think. Wait a minute (feel like HAL9000 accessing data) I did read a while back in GMHTech magazine that some replacement clutch plates are thicker then the original OEM plate and this is a definite problem with a 3/32" release distance - just a thought. Danno74Z

Owen, Here is the tool you are looking for. Danno74Z http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3979

Owen, Yes, HF are cheap tools. Disposable…debatable and for this application who needs a lifetime warranty on a tool that one uses just once or twice. But hey, I was just giving you an example of the tool I thought you needed. No pun intended by using HF as an example. Snap-on Tools has a similar but smaller product that costs $53, I looked it up. Good luck removing the bearings. Danno74Z

Pete, Does Ron have a web site that further explains his diff mount with some pictures. Danno74Z