Danno74Z

Frank, I have used both methods, the slide hammer and the method mentioned by Mark. The slide hammer in my opinion the best way of removing the axles and your chances of ruining anything are greatly reduced. I got my hammer from Harbor Freight and it was cheap in the grand scale of things. (We should start a HybridZ tool rental service) But I did remove one side like Mark did (no nuts) using a block of wood and a sledge. I took some duck tape and attached the wood to the exposed shaft and from a distance of about 2' whack the end of the shaft. It move about 1/8" on the initial blow. I did this a few more times and it popped out. Does this method damage the shaft in anyway; your guess is as good as mine. You are transmitting a lot of force to a part not designed to be hit and as a rule I don't like to beat on anything if at all possible. The axles and bearings are a precision fit and made with some tight tolerances from what I can tell. Perhaps some other members can offer a scientific reason why you want to pull the shaft out vs. other methods. Danno74Z

Pete, The key reason you can fit your 255's in the back of your car besides using the correct offset wheels is that your 8" springs are above the tires which give you more inboard room. Without doing this modification those meats would not fit in an unaltered wheel well - am I correct here. I'm convinced a 245 tire on a 17"x8" rim - again with the correct offset is the largest one can go without using much smaller diameter rims (14" or 15") with low profile tires which would look ridiculous on a Z - some people do this to Honda's though. Danno74Z

I asked the same question (slightly different) yesterday and have corresponded with several individuals on this very topic. Here is what I've been able to find out and this is the route I'm taking. At this time my Z does not have flares and I choose not to use them or wheel adapters but I want to fit the biggest tires I can within the wheel wells. Like I said the censuses among folks is a 17"x 8" rim with a 245/45 tire will fit provided one uses coilovers and the backspacing is 5" or just a little bit more. In offset terms, for the 8" rim its +12 - +19mm. Too much offset and you will need wheel spacers or adapters and too little the fender becomes an issue. Lots of people use the 16" x 7" Panasports rims (I don't know the offset) with 225 tires and to do minor fender rolling on lowered vehicles. I don't think you can use an 8" rim even with the correct offset without coilovers or flares one has to use one or the other. Tomorrow, I'm ordering my rims with a custom offset of +15 - I hope they fit!!! Danno74Z

Anybody, Can someone please tell me positively if a P245/45R17 tire can fit within the wheel wells of the Z - front and back.From what I can tell a p245/45 is approx. 9.8" wide. Also, does the hub (tire mounting surface) sit dead center within the well or is it offset either to the fender or towards the center of the car. I have some rims in mind that are 8" wide with a 4.5" backspace (I think this is 0 offset) but trying to determine if they will fit front and back. Thank You, Danno74Z

Dan & Owen, Thank you for the help on the rims. Dan, I am looking at what you said closely because you are now using the tire size I want to use except my future rim is 17" vs your 15" rim. Did you use the same tire and rim up front? This is very important! Also, on your coilovers (I too will be using them) did you use camber plates or stay with the OEM top rubber perch setup. Thanks guys for the input as I now have a source for rims and any backspacing I need from 3.5" to 6.58". So, if I can nail down the backspacing I'm on my way on ordering rims. I'm spending a little more for the rims but I know with some good measuring they will fit in the wells. Danno74Z

Anybody, Can someone please tell me positively if a P245/45R17 tire can fit within the wheel wells of the Z - front and back. From what I can tell a p245/45 is approx. 9.8" wide. Also, does the hub (tire mounting surface) sit dead center within the well or is it offset either to the fender or towards the center of the car. I have some rims in mind that are 8" wide with a 4.5" backspace (I think this is 0 offset) but trying to determine if they will fit front and back. Thank You, Danno74Z

I know this subject has been discussed numerous times but it appears an aftermarket clutch has finally been developed for the LT1/LS1 and T56 tranny. I sure this also applies to a stock 350 engine but not positive. In this months issue of GM High-Tech Performance magazine they ran a story (continuation buildup) on a LT1 coined Thunderchicken (yellow '93 Firebird with a highly modified LT1 - only in my dreams!). Anyway to make this short the authors were having all kinds of drive line problems - bent drive shafts, totaled rearend, vibrations etc. but were never able to fix the high shift effort needed to shift between gears at high RPM or even at lower speeds. The authors received a call from David Norton of Star Performance Engineered Clutches in Hueytown, Alabama and it appears Thunderchicken shifting woes are over. These guys are raving about this new clutch. STAR offers 4 different clutch packages from stage 1($379) to Stage 4($649). For TC they chose stage 3 ($499) which has 420RWH, stage 3 is rated up to 500RWH. "Before changing the clutch we measured the effort it took to shift into second gear. We usedd a digital scale and found the max effort (engine running) to be 36 lbs.! This contrasts sharply with the effort it takes without the engine running, which was 7 lbs. After the Star clutch installation, we measured the shift effort again and the highest effort required was 10 lbs. -a reduction in effort of 72%! This reduction in shift effort is directly related to the fact that the clutch is no longer dragging on the flywheel surface when the clutch is depressed." The article goes on to say why other aftermarket clutches fail where the Star clutch excels. Mostly, these other clutches pressure plates overpower the master and slave cylinders, the air gap is reduced because more material on the clutch is used then the OEM had intended (ok on a push type clutch but not on a pull clutch). And the big one - not enough study or research has been done to really understand the T56 clutch mechanism. STAR PERFORMANCE ENGINEERED CLUTCHES 3420 Davey Allison Blvd. Hueytown, AL 35023 800/828-4379 Danno74Z

Prior to starting my Z conversion I was contemplating on doing a Fiero engine conversion with the Northstar (I also own an anemic 2.5L 86 Fiero). This would really make a very interesting conversion for sure, either in the Z or Fiero. One very unique feature about this engine is its low weight. This engine weighs only 402 pounds - now that is light for putting out 295 ponies. I have read that some turbo applications have been developed for it too! 400-500HP and a weight of 400lb - WOW! Danno74Z

Stephen, Welcome aboard! You ask a very tough question because really the sky is the limit on conversions be it engines, transmission or brakes let alone the body or interior. But, I will tell you what I have spent so far and I'm sure others members will reply too. Engine - 95LT1 (used, but in excellent shape including all accessories and computer) $2500 Transmission - 96T56 ( used, " ") $1500 Clutch - (New Centerforce) $500 LSD Differential - Used, I'm hoping its ok but I don't know $400 Axles CV - ( used, good shape) $100 Rear Disk Brakes Conversion - (used, 92 300ZX but in great shape) $150 Spot Calipers PB $110 Gas tank ( Most people use the original or use a fuel cell - trying something different) $100 5 lug hubs and machine work $100 New urethane bushings, struts and camber plates plus coilovers $1000 Rims and Tires (Rims are on order - These are going to be real cool! A secret for now - having some fun) $1,300 JTR conversion kit (I have not purchased this yet and debating if I will. I'm designing my own engine mount system because I don't like the engine being cantilevered on the mounts. Most people use this kit. I may just use bits and pieces) $300 JTR books - (highly recommend and read it several times) $30 Total $8,090 to date - good god have I spent that much so far! I figure another $1000.00 to cover the front brakes and miscellaneous parts. So I'm up to $9,000 and in my case my Z's body and paint is in good shape but add another $4-5 thousand for a quality paint job and if rust is present add a few more thousand. That's way its imperative to find a rust free Z as a foundation before you begin. I can't imagine what other members have spent in time and money fixing rust. It will stop you from ever beginning you project. Well, there you go, I hope this helps some. Danno74Z

LT4 vs LT1: All I know is the LT4 and the Corvette LT1s have aluminum heads, whereas the camaro/firebird lt1s had iron. This is not correct. The Camaro and Firebird LT1 engines had aluminum heads as well. Smaller diameter intake and exhaust valves were the major differences between the two heads. Don't quote me on this but I believe the Caprice and Impala LT1's had the iron heads and produced approx. 265HP. The aluminum version produced a very conservative 285hp. The Corvette LT1 produced 300HP because of a modified exhaust and a tweaked ECM. Danno74Z

Lone, I agree with you 110% on the original SB350, it was built for the last 35+ years and is still being built. My only point was (which was not clear) had to do with the LT1 engine only. It was built for only a 5 year period (92-97) so it stands to reason that performance parts for this specific engine will be limited compared to the LS1 which is currently in production or the SB350 as you mentioned. Now if GM kills the Camaro/Firebird which seems likely after 2002 then who knows what the aftermarket folks will do. Danno74Z

JM213, I'm in the middle of reworking/updating the suspension of my 260Z. However, the engine going into the Z is a 95LT1 with 2,345 miles on it and a T56 tranny. Lots of differences between the LT1 and the LS1 engines and naturally the running battles on which is a better engine in the Camaro camps. In my opinion and if you can afford it go with the LS1 engine. Why would I say that since I'm using the LT1. Most performance shops probably have stopped developed high performance parts for the LT1 motor since it ended production in 97(I think) and are now focusing R&D efforts on the LS1. That's not to say you can't hop up a LT1 engine. I just think you will see a greater range of performance parts for the current production motor as time passes. If you can't afford to go the LS1 route you can very easily turn a LT1 into a close approximation of a LT4 motor for about $2000. This conversion has been documented is several hot rod mag. and one can achieve 400hp from the LT1 without turning it into an unmanageable beast. Here is a link that compares both the LT1 and LT4 engines. http://www.tir.com/~steveher/lt4.html For the time being I'm saying with my stock LT1 engine. In my case, I will use headers, dual exhausts, no cats, no air or PS pumps or EGR valve and a tweaked computer. With this setup, 300-350hp should be obtainable. That is a lot of HP for a 2600lb car. But that 400HP mark is sure enticing. Danno74Z

I just received my spot MC from Ryane Motorsports. The prices are $55.00 for the non polished ones. http://www.ryanemotorsports.com/mechspot.htm They arrived witin a week of ordering them. Danno74Z

Spotfitz, I have a question for you and hopefully it is not a dumb one. Like I said, I purchased all new bearings and seals for all 4 wheels. I noticed the rear bearings did not come with any races like the fronts is this normal? I helped a friend remove the fronts and clearly races needed to be punched out and replaced with the matching mate. I haven't removed all the grease from the rear housing yet to see what is in there. I know the outer bearing came out with the axle and the inner bearing is still in the housing. I'm assuming the outer bearing needs to be pressed on the axle shaft and the inner bearing needs to be pulled out with a bearing puller. Is all this correct? Again what about the races I'm very curious about that. Thanks Danno74Z

Spotfitz, Thank you for the help on the bearings. I went out to the shop and cleaned all the old grease out and you are correct. Everything is fine inside the carrier so all I need to do is grease up the new bearings and I'm set. I shopped around and British Victoria had the best prices for bearings. With 500 members it would be nice to have one of the retailers would give us a price break on parts. Thanks again. Danno74Z

spotfitz, This is directly from the shop/service manual. Tightening torque (182 to 239 ft-lb) To assemble: (most important paragraph) Tighten wheel bearing lock nut, and measure the preload and rear axle shaft end play. Readjust as required. Wheel bearing preload: 3.9 in-lb At the hub bolt 27.9 oz or less Rear axle shaft end play: 0 to .0059 in Caulk wheel nuts securely after tightening. Can someone interpret what all this means? Readjust as required - how? The distance piece I have is a B part does one tighten the nut until you get - At the hub bolt 27.9 oz or less preload? 181 to 239 is quite a range so I figure one continues to tighten the nut up to 239 but once you hit 27.9 oz you stop. Is this how its done? I just received all new bearings and seals and I don't want to ruin them or have the axle come loose! Thanks Danno74Z PS I will scan this page of the manual and send it to anybody who wants it for reference. My new email address is: laurizio@ezlink.com

Mike, Just a heads up for you with those big (wide) rotors. When I helped Rob installed the Wilwood setup on his Z - very similar to your new setup we hit a snag. We had the entire conversion done car down off the stands started rolling it out of the garage and heard this awful scraping noise - Rob's face turned white. Back up she went on the stands spun the front wheels - nothing. As it turns out, when the weight of car is down on the front end the nose of A-arm (by the ball joint) hits and scraps on the inside surface of the rotor. Remember you are using a 1.25" width rotor and the OEM is what about 1/2" at the most. All turned out fine, and no damage was done to the new rotors but we had to take a die grinder to that curved surface of the a-arm and remove material along the entire radius for turns too! I just wanted to warn you from getting the conversion done only to have to pull everything apart. Just isn't that obvious when the car is in the air of this gottcha. Danno74Z

Terry or anyone, I removed one stub axle without prying up the crushed part of the nut and I was lucky that I did not damage the threads. I have one axle that still needs to be removed. I won't be lucky twice so how does one pry up that crushed part of the nut? Is it meant to be carefully cut/ground off and a new nut used? I have ZX replacements in hand. Thanks, Danno74Z

Scottie, I found the other thread right after I asked the question about the photo - thanks. Rob and I went a slightly different route that you did on using an adaptor. We chose to part (slice in half) both the 280ZX turbo companion flange and the 260Z (in my case) stub axle flange. We then had a groove turned into one half and a mate turned into the other half similar to a nut and a screw relationship. A machined fit and true - no wobble or runout. Then both pieces were tig welded inside and out. We now have a one-piece stub axle flange but with the 280ZX turbo flange on the one end. Rob has pounded his V8Z for three years with no problems of breakage in the rear end area. The welding part is key and it has to be done by an expert in that field. This is just an alternative method to yours. One nice thing about the route Rob and I chose is (like yours) the axles are very easy to remove if need be and we went cast iron to cast iron on the welding. Just throwing that out there for people to discuss. Danno74Z

Scottie By chance do you have a picture of the adaptor? Danno74Z

Mike, I have the 300ZX 5 lug hubs also but I have not tried to put them on yet. I will be going home for lunch today and I will measure the ones I have. Can you measure the ones you have and post the ID dimension. I also have a '74 Z (early) model and perhaps there is a difference in spindle diameters from year to year - I don't know? Danno74Z I have some info for you on the hubs. The ones that I have are from an 84 Turbo (84-85 turbo models were 5 lug). I don't have the wheel bearings but the races inner and are still in the hubs and the dimensions I took are from those points - best I can do because of the taper. Lug side; 1.46",1.775" inside 1.89", 2.318". Hopes this help a little. I need to yank a front wheel off and check to my hubs and compare the two. I might be able to do this tonight. [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited February 06, 2001).] [This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited February 06, 2001).]

Morgan, I have the offset brackets. I machined them today on a milling machine (3hrs) and removed 1/4" of material from the face of the bracket where the caliper bolts up to, this left 1/4" thickness of cast iron for mounting. I bolted up the bracket, put the stub axle back in and secured the caliper - fits perfect. I still have to drill the stub for five lugs and put on the spot calipers but this part is done.

Worked on the brakes a little today and I was mistaken on the rotor machining (outside Dia.). The rotor does not need any machine work at all to work. Just the bracket needs to have a little milling done to the mounting tabs. This will be done tomorrow. Good news. Danno74Z

I checked for wheel clearance this morning and here is what I found. The caliper housing protrudes 1" from the flat part of the rotor hat and a 6.5 inch radius min is needed to clear the caliper housing. My 7X14 inch AR wheel did not fit as I thought it wouldn't - not a big deal because I'm going to 17" and should have a ton of room. My American Racing rim has ½" clearance around the 4 hole mounting area but this is an ancient flat surface rim. The new rims have arched spokes and will clear the calipers outright. Morgan - I know SCCA or yourself could design a very simple bracket to work - have to run. Danno74Z

Morgan, This is indeed very exciting at least for me. I will go the bolt on route. Trial and error all the time. I will take some pictures and send them to you as I progress, which I think will be faster. Again, I used the Z32 caliper with a 1987 300zx rotor. I got the rotors from Autogator http://www.autogator.com/ and they came turned (a little dirty - the price was right) and the calipers came from a Z32 salvage yard in GA. (Russell Floyd, ZX Connection, 1313 Old Draketown Tr. Temple, GA 30179 zxparts@mindspring.com 770-562-8668, 770-598-5815.) The one question about the wheels I'm not sure about. Tomorrow, before I head out to work I will check for you but my gut feeling is there won't be a wheel problem. I only have some 14" American Racing rims so this won't be a real good test for fit but you have a valid concern. The caliper did not appear to stick out too far in the trial fit. I used the Nissan B.O.B that nobody seems to be able to purchase or find. I bought them through the dealer here in town and it must have been sheer luck. Morgan, buddy this is going to work but only with a bracket that has the offset, either beg, borrow (and never give back) or take 2 ½" plate steel weld them together and bolt it up to the flange housing. A little more work but very doable. Danno74Z