fraz

i had a similar problem on an RB i own. Number 5 was always pig rich. Turned out the fuel pressure reg was chinese shit and was leaking fuel into the vacumn reference line and running back into the plenum. The fitting was directly opposite number 5 port.

looks like he used a rb20e head. near the bottom of the page you can see a photo of a magazine and it says rb20e

There is a guy in australia that makes roller rockers. WES engines. http://wesengines.com.au/contactwes.html

i think 200 shipped is the new price? a fair bit of design went into these. I have one on my vh into datsun cedric project which has very little room between the block and chassis rail and with 2 90deg fittings the hoses come out right next to the block.

You can run the rb25 head bolts or studs in the rb30 block with the 26 head. You need the right washers under the bolts/nuts and thats it. You have to mod the block slightly to take the 2x rb26 head dowels. Any machine shop could do it in a few mins. You can run 2x tensioners, then you can move them both and adjust your total cam timing easily. Also, tensioners are cheaper than idlers! All the information you need is in the skylines australia rb30 section

Nice job on the block weld. We did it on our first rb30, but since then, its easier to weld the head then get it skimmed. It is necessary to do as there is only 1mm of head covering the gasket in some places. Its a 5 min job to get it welded. Just get the stock rb30e gasket, or rb26dett gasket and hold it up to the head and you will see what needs welding. There is also a thread on skylines australia in the rb30 section about feeding the r33 vvt from the internal head oil gallery. eliminating the need for the external feed to the head. The r34 rb25det neo head is a superior head. The r33 greddy copy front facing plenum bolts up and the head has solid lifters. Also the vvt setup is far better as it is not a constant loss system like the r33 and dumps way less oil into the head when the vvt is not in use

You need 1 and a half sets of sr20 rod bolts to fit the rb30 stock rods. arp part number 202-6005 You can also use vg30 arp bolts but you need to mod the rod a little. I havent seen it done but i think you just have to bore the bolt hole out a fraction. Stock rods and pistons are ok if your expectations are reasonable. Im making 400rwhp on 18psi with stock r33vvt head. My mate is making 450rwhp on a stock r33vvt head. Both motors are stock bottom end, just a hone/head skim, new rings and acl bearings. 550cc injectors, china greddy copy plenum

I have seen people strip the internals from the transfer case, cut the side off it and weld a plate over the hole and run the stock awd driveshaft yoke on custom shaft

It wont fit the rb20e or 30e oil pump tho. you shouldnt be running the sohc pump as they are ♥♥♥♥, the internals are not a very good design, but if you are cheap, they wont fit the collar

They are just made from medium steel, bit better than mild. Turn down the crank, shrink the collar on, and chuck in 2 roll pins for extra strength

i bought it from a guy that got a few of them from china. They are same dimensions and ports and everything as greddy one but a rougher casting. just needs a clean up and will be all good. My clean up will just be a quick smooth out with a flap wheel, not going to take any major amounts of material out of it.

We had a motor just like that last week. Gave it a 1mm overbore and used stock acl rb30e 1mm over pistons. The main things to check are the oil pump drive, You can usually tell how many kms it has done by the wear on the flats. If its really worn you will need to sleeve it. Also, grab the front pulley and jam it back and forward as hard as possible. You should eb able to 'feel' a little movement but not really see it. If its really sloppy then its pretty much buggerd and will cost a lot of money to get it built up around the thrust bearing.

I dont know how popular link ecu's are in the states, but in NZ they are very common. Most of the guys i know in NZ with rb engines are running plug in link computers. You can get a g3 plug in with enough features to make a good road car, and a linkplus g2 with far more features for a few more dollars. They are pretty indestructible and pretty easy to tune. I dont think their newer version has an auto tune feature, but i think it automatically retards the timing a few degrees when knock is detected and remembers where and gives a little chart of where knock was detected. http://www.linkecu.com/ I know a guy with an autronic ecu and he swears by it. It has a million features and can do nearly everything, but its costs a lot more money. Last night we picked up a mates old datsun 2400 with rb30det from tuners and its running a microtech lt-12s. The car is running really well with good cold start and idle control and a few extra outputs for waterspray and stuff. the bloody clutch started slipping at 4200, so it was only tuned to there with 300hp at the wheels and 375ft/lbs with 4.11 diff gears (1psi and just starting to spool) so should go significantly beter with new clutch and retune

I have a greddy copy on rb25/30. Its a prety average casting but big enough inside to not affect airflow. I will try and take some pics of the inside if anybody is interested. The outside of the casting has been painted with what looks like thick silver paint to make it look smother. I have a vh45 80mm throttle that bolted straight up, and the water pipes and idle control also, the fit on the idle control/aac was good but the port does not line up very well. It will be ok, but maybe around 40% of the port is blocked off. A die grinder will fix it in no time. Also the runners to the head are good, but require a little port matching. Nothing serious but there are gains to be made. The other ports for vacum and brake booster are ok. The threads were all clean and tapped right out. The price was around 1/3 the price of the genuine one so im not worried about spending a little on giving it a tidy up.

http://www.camshaftshop.com/

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You could disconnect the ignition module power plug, remove the crank angle sensor and with it plugged in and the key on, spin it in an anti-clockwise direction, you will hear the injectors clicking, if not, you probably have lost a feed somewhere

a gtst bellhousing wont fit a z32 tranny, gtst is 'small' and z32 is 'big', so you need either rb25det or gtr

All rb trannys will bolt to all rb's. There are 2 sizes of tranny tho. 'Big' (300zx/rb25det/rb26dett) and small (ca18/sr20/ka24/rb20(de/det)rb25(n/a)rb30) From what i have done and others have posted on here, the big tranny bellhousings are interchangeable with other big trannys and the small with the small

the above pic is a kit you can but in nz and get welede to your stock bottom half. they are about $500nzd ~ $250-300 usd i know a guy that moves the throttle to the front, hard to see here but you get the idea, he uses a bit of flat ally to cover the hole.

only if you want to run the r33 loom complete, i take it your doing a conversion, if so, you just need the engine loom and ecu. Put power in the right places according to the ecu diagram and you will be sorted.

its the security module. It has all the bits for remote locking and engine immobiliser. Its part of the car loom, not the engine loom so thats probably why you dont have any diagrams of it. The pinout is very similar to the s14a diagram. i think the plug is even the same!

There is one for sale in new zealand, saw it while browsing for gtr parts http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Engines-drive-trains/auction-62980639.htm I dont think you can boe a rb20 out much, like rb25/26/30 bore as the water jacet around the bores is closer on the rb20 than the other rb's, BUT, that is only from what i have seen looking at various rb20 and 30 motors at the wreckers