fastzcars

I Think the flasher is located right above and behand the hood release lever. At least thats where my flasher was located. I can't be 100% sure because I replaced the whole wiring harness with an aftermarket kit. But I'am 98% sure it's there. As far as the turn signal not working check your grounds in the back of the car. behind the taillight panel. or the light sockets themselves, they're known to get pretty well corroded. The hazard switch, I have no idea, my switch was broken in half. I just remembered that 2 small screws on a bracket held that sucker in. You might want to get a flash light and lay on your back on the floor to get a beter looking behind the dash. Sorry for not having definate answer's.

Thanx Tim, I don't have a isolator on the carb, just the gasket. Should I make an aluminum sheild ,to shield off heat rising from the intake to the carb bowls? Or are you thinking along the lines of a Phenolic spacer? I'll give anything a try now. How about some fiberglass/aluminum sheathing around the fuel lines? Well I just finished making some new starter cable out of some 0/2 welding wire. I had regular 2 gauge in there before. Thanks again for responding guys. Keep'm com'n. I need all the help I can get.

Thanx Tim. I thought of that too. I even took off the inspection lids. You know I ran 2 aluminum 1/2 inch lines up in the tunnel where the stock lines are located. Ya, I'll try that maybe the aluminum is picking up heat from the exhast. Thanx Tim for the lead.

Hi GreenSamo. What I mean by "no smoke" is No colored smoke, The exhaust out the tail pipe is blowing my pant leg while I'm standing 4 feet behind the car, so the exhaust is clear. Thanks for response. I'm thinking maybe it's my ign.switch. Or the wiring from my battery to the remote solenoid, since I have my battery in the back. Any other ideas guys? Thanx.

I'm about to shoot this car. I can't seem to figure this out. Now I consider myself a good trouble shooter, but I need some help. O.K. A little info. I have a freshly rebuilt 383 SBC. All new forged internals. new MSD billet distributer, Digital 6 plus box, coil. Holley 3310 vacuum carb. Holley blue pump, Aeromotive bypass gas regulator. Total rewire of the car using centech wiring harness. New exhaust system.O.K. so the problem is this. The motor starts great. oil pressure is 40 psi. Gas pressure set at 7.5 lbs. compression test are 6 cylinders are right @ 180 and @ 190 psi. New bosch platinum plugs read slightly rich( black soot? alittle wet and smell of gas) No smoke of any kind out of the exhaust. Timing set @ 8 degress with the mechanical 28 degress total, no vacuum advance. When the water temp rises to 180 it's O.K. but as soon as it reaches 190 power starts dropping alittle, no bucking os stubeling, just starts sounding like it's laboring. Then right before is stalls, I sware, it sounds like detonation. Not like marbles in rattle can loud. just a little. at first I thought maybe I install the wrong heat range spark plugs so I install 2 heat range colder plugs, still stalls, Then I thought air lock in the water pump. so I raised the front of the car and filed the radiater and filled with 50/50 mix water/anti freeze.and a bottle of redlines water wetter. still stalls. Then I even thoght maybe the exhaust shop left a rag in one of the pipes. I changed the MSD box with a friends AL6 box and Coil. I'm at my wits end. PLEASE< PLEASE<PLEASE HELP. I sware i'm gone shoot this thing. O.K. rant over.

you know I just read 2 mags about comp cams new "Bee Hive" valve springs , They are suppose to fit your vortec heads without mods to the spring seat pockets. Check out Comp Cams web site.

I just found there web sitehttp://www.weirhotrodproducts.com lets see if the link works?

Hi. you can try a search on WEIR bellhosing. There a 2 people that bought kits for the T56 trans. Hope that helps.

Hi all. I'm using a vintage air unit. It's there gen2 system. just click on the www icon at the bottom of my post to see the pictures. It's at least half the weight of the original system. I'll be charging the system up in a couple of weeks. I'll report back on it's performance.

Hi Guys. I think I'll finally make it this year. I'll have to call MSA for my reservation.

I would check the plug wire from the coil to the distributer cap. May be it was damaged when it was pulled off the old coil? I find that if I get stuck on a problem, I just stop, walk away, and sleep on it. Then I start over and assume nothing. Meaning I would check the whole spark system. Good luck.

That's great guys, count me in. If I can help out P.M. me.

Yes they are. Sorry for the mix up on the wheels.

There's a guy named Mike Gruder or Grutter. He has a burgundy red z with elctromotive fuel injection. HR 9 inch wheels in the rear. He also just had his 350 stoked to 383. He lives in west side of the san fernando valley. I think in chatsworth . He is also a Group Z member. I'll post a picture in my album to see if that's the z your freind is taking about.

hi Grog. Thanks for the kind words. Lets see if I can answer your questions. The steering shaft is a hybrid of a Z and the miata. The top half is a z and the bottom from the miata, The miata is a hollow tube and the z shaft almost fit inside. I had to file the z shaft a little for it to fit.then I had them welded together. The Rack itself didn't need any mods. But the inner tie rods had to be cut down and rethreaded for the stock miata outer tie rod ends. I think I cut about 2.5 to 3 inches off each end. I don't remember now. The miata outter tie rod ends bolt right up to the z steering arms, oh, the steel lines had to be bent just a little bit. The crossmemmber needed the most work, I had a local z shop weld the perches for me, The perches needed to have a flat surface for the miata rack to mount correctly. and I didn't trust my welding. The power steering hoses where a bear to figure out. The thread's in the rack are 16x1.5 mm I got mine from McMaster Carr. They are 16mm to a dash 6 AN adapter. you need 2 of them. You also need HIGH PRESSURE hose. I hear that the pressure from the pump to the rack can be as high as 1500 psi. so I used stainless steel teflon hose , rated at 2000 psi. The reserve tank is a modified Miata, The mounting tabs where on the bottom of the tank originally, I had them cut off and rewelded to the back of the tank. But even after I did all this work, My suggestion is probably start with the subaru WRX rack, It look's like a closer match to the stock z rack. The miata rack is 1.5 inches wider from the inner tie rods compared to the Z's at 25 inches. I may have bump steer issues. I don't know yet. because I haven't driven the car yet to confirm this. I hope I didn't discourage you from doing the mods. It's not hard. Just take time and patience. It took me 4 months to figure things out. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask.

Hi Grog, That was me. I used a 93' miata rack. I tried using the stock P.S. pump but couldn't find a bracket that would work. I used a G.M. type 2 pump from a early 90's sunbird , with a ZOOPS Long water pump style bracket. I found 2 months later that SUMMIT Racing is making a kit using the Zoops bracket with pump.The mounting for the rack itself needed to be modified. Here are some pictures for you http://photos.yahoo.com/be/graphequ@pacbell.net/1st?.dir=zcar&.view=t

Did somebody say "Strippers" . I'm there.

I'm with you guys on this one. Even though I don't post much here, I always check out the post's on a daily basis. In fact it's almost an obsession. Did I spell that right? Any way I would like to thank ALL you guys for keeping this site real. Later.

Go to a NAPA parts store. They usually have them. No body else had them in stock. They are metric 10mm, I replaced all my lines, I removed the old lines and matched the length I needed, then bent them by hand. Wear heavy gloves when you bend them, If you take your time you won't kink them. Good luck. P.S. Also go to Sears and get a good quality set of Flare Nut wrench's . You'll never be able to put enough torque to seal the fitting's with regular wrench's. You'll round them out for sure if you try. Believe me I tried.

I say to each his own. I like the detail work. The weight distribution would be further back than stock. The power is probably good, although I don't know for sure how much power is available. Would I put one in my car? maybe. Ive seen 510's with them and they do look good in there. Just my 2 cents.

Hi Zach, Did you ever figure out the tach problem? . Is the white/Red wire a large heavy gauge wire? if so that wire should be hooked up to the main out put of the alternater. They SHOULD NOT BE CONNECTED TOGETHER. I don't see the white/red being hooked up to the regulater. There ARE Black, white/black, yellow wires from the regulater to the alternater. There is also a small black/white wire that should only have power when the ignition switch is on and the large white wire should be getting power all the time from the battery. I hope I didn't confused you.

Zach. According to my wiring diagram the red/blue stripe wire is spliced to the positive 12 volts from the green wire hazard switch. There are also red/blue wires for the 2 interior lamps to illuminate the gauges .The black is the ground. The Black/white stripe is the signal from the positive side of the Coil. The Green/white stripe is from the ignition switch. I hope that helps. As far as the signels not working. I would check the turn signal switch itself. They are known to to fail internally.

Congrats Tim! Way to go I second Denny411. It's nice to see a project in it's last legs. It give the rest of us inspiration to finish. I can't wait to see it in person.

That's great news tim, what a x-mas present. Just don't wrap it around a pole. It's still wet outside . I gota go over to your place to check it out.

Let's try that again?