fastzcars

Boy Siirit, you really want to make a ruckus.

Welcome Steve. Fasten your seat belts kids, we're goin for a bumpy, but unforgetable ride. You'll find the search function quite usefull. I've used it countless time's. I've almost always found what I was looking for there. But if you do have a question, The guys here are ready to help.

Hay Phantom. That is one Sweet, Clean, Install. And it's nice to know that the milage isn't to bad either. I olny wish I could see it in person. Keep the post's comin.

Hi Rednax. You might try Zbarn.comhttp://www.zbarn.com[/url]

Hi there guys. J260z, Sorry about the misunderstanding of your questions on the hydrolic lines. The lines on my rack are stock. The only interference war the center outlet one. The crossmember needed a notch for it. Just a little heat from a torch and a well placed hammer hit was all it took to make the lines clear. That and the fact that the Driver side motor mount needed quit a bit of massage work to clear the input shaft. Thanks for the heads up TimZ about the stainless steel lines. I'll make sure to check on the specs on the hose. There a great place called MR HOSE. They make lines for the trucking trade, They said they can make any hose for anything. I'll see if that's true. Z U all later.

toyotasupra17, I can see your point , But have you steered a z with 235x40x17 tires lately? Try parking that z and you'll see why, it's a real bear . Plus I chose the miata rack because of it's handling and feed back reputation on the autocross circuit. They are great handling cars( the miata that is). By the way RPMS ,your probably right about the feed back concern, That was one of my concern's as well. The rack is mounted to the crossmember by very thin rubber bushing , with almost no movment of the rack, Thus road feel should be great. I'll report back, I'm shooting to get my car done by september. Ya ,I know it's a long time , But It's taken me almost 3 years just bo get it to this point. So I'm coming down the stretch. Wish me luck guys.

j260z , I'll make some new braided steel lines, I still have to figure out how to mount the pump assembly to the engine block. I have an idea on how I'm going to do it, Probably a serpentine set up. I'll take some more pictures.

Mike kz, I haven't installed the rack yet in the car. The crossmember is out at the powdercoater. I don't think the turning radius should change, Just the amount of turns from lock to lock should be less.

I would also be interested in a set. What is the time frame for the manufacture of such products?

Hi Zya. The wheels are 17x7 front w/4"BS and 17x8 rear w/5"BS. The Tires are 235x40s and rears are 255x40s.I have Coilovers all around so the rear wheels fit with plenty of clearence. Z ya later.

Hi Tim. I deal with electronic board repair on a daliy basis. I've looked on Megasquirts website, It doesn't seem too, too difficult. At least I can read the schematics, that helps. PM me.

Ya , the ratio is 12:1 and the turns lock to lock is 2 3/4 turns. I chose the miata rack because of the car's reputation of a great handling and feed back. Glad to be of help.

WOW Phantom, That is a sweet, clean install. I have to to you on a job well done Keep the pictures coming. I need encouragement to finish my car.

WOW. Digikey really has there act together. Keep us posted on that megasquirt. I'm thinking of going EFI myself. But I'm EFI challenged.

Thanks for the words of encouragement, Aux is right owen, that is a vintage ir unit. Gen2 super compact I think is the name of it. The Miata rack I found at a junk yard while looking for mirror's. When I first saw it I thought it was a bolt in. But it wasen't. The mounting ears of the crossmember had to be cut in half, extended 1/2 inch and a flat bar stock welded on top, to recreate the mounting ears. I also chose the miata rack because of the quick ratio and the fact that is nly requires 2 3/4 turns lock to lock. Agains guys thaks for the kind words. Oh by the way Owen, I live by the mission san gabriel. But my car is at a friends home in Cypress. You guys are actually closer to my car than I am. My friend, David Ri, Is a great guy, He let's me park my car there while I fix it at his driveway. Ya see , I live at an apartment with no garage, and a commen driveway, so there's no way I could do this at my place without his help. Well. thats it for now, Any other questions I'll be glad to answer . Thanx again for listening.

Hi guys. I finally got my crossmember back. Look at my yahoo web page for pics. Hope this helps you guys out.

Hi J260z.Sorry it took so long to get back. I gotta get a degital camera one of these days. Well I finally got my crossmember back. Look at my yahoo web page for pics, hope this helps.

Hi Tomohawk. I tried modifing a cross member, but my welding abilities are very weak. So I bought another crossmember, and took it to a z car restoration shop,they said they would work it out for me. It'll be ready this week. I'll post some pics this week. So stay tuned.

J260z, Hi sorry about the long delay in response. I normally don't look at the RB series swap forum. I'm still trying to get the miata rack to fit. After I bought a gas welder, I tried to modify the cross member, But since i'm a Never used one before, the welds didn't look to strong. So I bought another cross member and took it to a z car specialist in hawthorne cal. to have them have a crack at it. Well, I'll be picking it up next week all done.All I'll have to do is bolt in the new/modified crossmember and the moded steering shaft to the car. Now i have to figure out the pump mounting to the engine and the pulley problem? Oh well one step at a time I guess. I post some new pictures next week.

griemann. I stand corrected. A voltmeter will read voltage regardless. But not many people have an ampmeter, and the test light is a cheap quick way to test for a draw. Jim Powers your also right, I didn't read the original post correctly, I ASSumed a battery drain was his original problem. my guess would be the switch also. Good luck Mayhem.

MYham, Try this test, get one of those test probes with the light on the end of it. Disconnect the NEGETIVE or Ground wire from the battery and connect the test light BETWEEN the the battery and the ground cable , Completing the curcuit. If there is a drain the lamp will light up. Then go inside and remove one fuse at a time from the fuse box. When the light goes out , you found the circuit thats causing the problem. Then it's a matter of disconnting each component from that curcuit to isolate it further. You'll need a good wiring diagram to trace it easier. Hope that help's.

Sorry to here about your allen wrench , That suck's. I think sears sells a magnet on an end of a flexable rod. you could try and fish it out that way?Good luck.

Tomohawk. Yes I'm still trying to work with the miata rack, Not a bolt in swap. I Had to weld a flat 1.5 inch wide, 1/8 inch thick steel stock to make a flat mounting points for the rack. I guess if there's a will, there'e a way. You know the mustang rack install is well documented. And if you already have one ,use it. I wish I was ready to install the rack, I just have too many commitments right now to work on my car. Darn, all painted and ready to put back together. Good luck on your project.

Hi Tomohawk. I hav'nt been working on my car much. But the I did take out the crossmember to modify it . Ill take some pictures this weekend and post on my yahoo web page.Give me till wensday. as I don't have a digital camera. later.

It should fit. the only difference are the center 4 bolt holes in the intake are at 72 degrees as appose to 90 degrees on the out most bolts. You would need to elongate the center holes on the intake. Oh, one more thing, make sure your not looking at Vortec heads, They look similar to the old style heads, They have 4 bolt holes per head, so the intake will only have 8 mounting bolt holes. I hope I didn't confuse you? sometimes I rant.