fastzcars

Hay guys, I just checked out the forecast. It doesn't look good for the weekend. Rain for both day's. Also is hooter's still on tonight?

That looks like under inflation to me. I not too sure without actually see and feeling the tire. Maybe JohnC can chime in.

Is this what your looking for?

Hi jbc3, Isn't it to bad they'll be covered up.Have you installed them yet?

I hope not Turbomeister, I'm going to take it easy at first and run street tires on the strip, to get use to the car. Once I get use to it, I'll put on the drag radials. I still might rent a trailer anyway, just to make sure.

Congrats Alex. Your car deserves to be on the cover, I'll have to look for the mag.

well here you go guys.

Wow!!!. is all I can think of when I opened the box today. These things are "Engineered Works Of Art". I got the CV adapters as well. Ross you are the man. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.

Hey I just had a thought. Would your friend be interested in making 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 headers for us Normally aspired Z's ?

You know those 240z stubs held up fine on the street with street tires. But with the shock load of drag radials and a sticky track, I twisted those stubs for all there worth. So I agree with most that the 240z stubs are good for the street. But be carefull on the track.

Try Centerline Wheels. They have 9.5 inch wide rims in 5 bolt pattern. 8 inch if in the stock 4 bolt. They also have internet "wheel deals". they are close out wheels at a reduced price.

I have that part. It come's with very short braided S/S lines. They are -4 size AN fittings. I the lines going out the throwout lever mounting hole of my lakewood bellhousing. I bought the Mcloud T/O bearing 3 years ago. It had the older style fiitings that were known to leak. So I followed a board member's advise and placed 2 THIN copper crush washer's to seal the fiitings to the main bearing body. I think Mcloud may have upgraded the fittings since then. Inthe first photo you can see the 2 hoses coming out of the bellhousing. The second is obviouslly the bearing itself. I hope that helps. Sorry the first photo was too large to download.

That's a nice write up. I'm going that route as well. It's nice to have picture's to help on the install. Thanks.

Here's Design Products website. http://www.designproductsracing.com I hope that helps.

I'll be there. I'll be at the autocross and the dyno saturday. and the show sunday. Although I,ve been driving my car alot lately, I might have to repaint some panels before then.

I have to correct magnum. The vortec intakes are 8 bolts and the 87 on up intake are 12, just like the old SBC. The only difference is the 4 center bolts for the 87 up intake are drilled at a steeper angle than the outer bolts.

Hi Drive. I'm a member of GroupZ. They just moved the location to torrance March 9th from 6 to 9 p.m. at Ricky and Ronnies 1301 W. Sepulveda Blvd. Torrance, Calif. You may want to check out there web site groupz.com to confirm.

Is this a new install? I had a similar problem with my car would stall and when I opened the hood to check, the car would start every time. Then on one occation I slammed down the hood after a restart and the car died. I found the the secondary safety latch had cut right through the center spark plug boot at the center of the distributer, you know the plug wire to the coil, grounding out the coil. It was hard to find the cut because the latch had sliced it so nice and neat. Could't even tell it was cut.

That looks sweet. Very clean. Isn't it a great feeling when that motor turns over for the first time. Is that a griffen radiator? What size? What fan are you using? A friend wants to upgrade his cooling system.

Man. That had to hurt. I wouln't wait. Go see a Doc right away. Ice it to keep the swelling down. That hurts me just looking at that picture.

I have a 73 z with a R200 rear end and the 280zxt cv's. The rear mounted bar from suspension techniques did touch the cv boots. I tried both above and below the axels to no result. So I just removed the bar all together. I think you may have to redrill the uprights that the bar is mounted to to solve the problem. For example if you mount the bar above the axels, Lengthen the end links and mount the bar higher on the uprights. But if the end links are too long they may contact the cars frame . I had that problem. You could go the other way and mount the bar under the axels by shortening the end links and redrilling the upright mounts lower. I haven't tried that yet. I'll see if that is possable tonight. Believe me I hated to remove the bar after spending over 200 dollars for the set. I hope I didn't confuse you with my round about answer.

I have the air gap intake installed withe the JTR mounts, but NO crossmember spacers. I have a 14x3 inch K&N drop base filter assembly, I think it's a 1 5/8 drop. and a holly 3310 carb. I have 1/4" clearence. I had to use a 1/4-20 nut to secure the top of the filter, because a plastic wing nut dinged my hood, the first time I closed my hood.

akeizm. The -6 AN was developed by the military to standardize the fittings that were used in there aircraft. AN meaning Army/Navy. The dash number is the size of the I.D. of the hose in 1/16 inch increments. So a -6 is 6/16 of an inch or 3/8". -4 is 4/16 and so on. Hope that helps. Back to the original question, I think a -6 should be O.K. for fuel injection since your running higher pressures than for a carb setup.

Hi tim, can you PM me. I have an intake I would like to modify also. Thanks.

I have a carpet kit to donate to the cause. It's black loop style. Man that really sucks.