Challenger

How is your PCV set up?

Hot air is heating my cabin through the shifter hole and I have a headache. haha. http://www.ebay.com/itm/240Z-260Z-280Z-5SPD-RUBBER-SHIFTER-BOOT-/400283849389?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d32c6d2ad&vxp=mtr#ht_7980wt_1165 Need the above. A black shifter knob. Nothing extravagant. Thanks

Its just the spring of the waste gate and the air line going to the manifold. No leaks that I am aware of. Ill check though. Ill check the boost gauge for leaks. Ill try to get some good pictures. Downpipe, you can see where the exit to the wastegate is. Welded to the original turbo manifold is one of these. Wastegate bolts directly to the adaptor below and the downpipe. http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-to-T3-Flange-Adapter-with-wastegate-Turbo-/330580386676?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf8206374&vxp=mtr Hard to see but here it is. As I mentioned, the port on the far side of the wastegate diaphram is open to atmosphere and the near side goes directly to the manifold. This is from a run I just did, again I wasnt full throttle so I dont know how accurate it is but it went up to about 8+ psi and held till I left off. Seems like it was bouncing around 8 psi so I hope that is the waste gate opening. Green is MAP and red is TP.

So I have a HX35w on my L28et, Tial 38mm with a yellow large spring which is supposedly 10psi based on equal intake and exhaust pressures, I have a boost gauge inside the car as well as datalogs of runs with megasquirt. I just welded the original internal gate closed. I had a few times where I have had my boost go up to 20 psi, according to my boost gauge and MAP sensor. Almost anytime I get on the throttle the boost gauge goes crazy and jumps all over the place. Generally between 0-10 psi. I went back to see my datalog and it shows the MAP to be smooth. How much filtering is done on the MAP sensor? Fluctuations like this dont seem normal, is there a possibility that my gauge is just messed up and resonating or something like that? Both MAP sensor and gauge are both coming off of the manifold. I cant say for sure if the wastegate is opening because I am generally watching the gauge as I apply the throttle in an effort to keep it in the 10psi range. Im gonna do some more testing today to try and figure that out though. It has its air line going to the manifold as well. The top of the wastegate is just left open to atmospheric. In the past I have had a couple times where the boost gauge came up steady and held but that was a while back and I havent got it to do it since. Im gonna try to get it to do it again today. Also, although my car isnt tuned well yet it seems like its way faster to slowly lay into the throttle than just go to full throttle.. I kind of remember something like this on my ZX originally but is that normal or just my engine not running correctly? Again Ill have to go test it some more but if my memory is correct its been way faster when the boost holds consistent on the gauge, the times where its all over the place it doesnt pull well.

Because I paid $4.35 for two Z31 horns that are very loud and sound pretty good. I say $20 saved factoring in some gas is pretty good. Either way, the Z31 84-88 horns are the same. I liked the 88 connector better so I grabbed those. They have a small sheet metal bracket that makes them perfect for the stock location on the S30. I had to splice into the wiring (12V side, other wire can just go to a good ground as long as the horn case is grounded) to put on the new connector but other than that it was all bolt on. Im very happy with them. Specs on the 84-88 horns are 12V, 3.5A, 110dB.

This picture makes me want to go cut up the rear end of my car... haha. Good looking project!

I do not think those in any way fit the lines of the ZX. I think a more square body color mirror is what looks good. Do you have power mirrors or the little cable adjuster type?

Alright, got the registered version of tuner studio and megalog viewer. Nice package. So it was pretty cool to watch it change VE values as I went... so much better than the trial and error method. Do I still leave EGO correction on while running VE analyze? Should it be the 5% or so while doing the autotune? I think I have it at 6% now. Im still working with it but I did notice the AFRs were not matching up exactly when just sitting and idling. Seems like it was half an AFR or so off, is that close enough? Working on getting organized as well. Saving my tunes as I go and making notes in the same folder for each iteration and what was changed and where it came from (eg. Tune1.3 comes from Tune1.2, etc) Im getting to the point where I can "safely" get into boost, or so I think. Ill have to restrain myself some, I got up to about 9 psi or so with good AFRs... it felt like a rocket ship! haha

Mine is ford dark shadow grey. See sig.

More information = better. I got the rear quest studs if I remember right, I think I just tapped them in and it went perfectly. If your having to smash them in theres is a problem as you have found out.

Check out the 2+2 thread. There was a member that modified the roof line. I dont know if doing what you want will look good. I think you need the quarter windows how they are to keep the car proportional. The doors are longer, the rocker behind the door is longer (obviously) and the rear fenders behind the wheel is different.

This showed up once I upgraded to the paid version of tuner studio.. Seems like everything is still working with the gauges but Im just curious what it means. Also SET ECU is now checked, I dont know what that means. I went through and detected the ECU again and everything went perfectly. Still shows this error.

I don't think the autos had it. I had a 74 2+2 and was gonna sell the diff but it wasn't a 3.36. Pretty sure it was an auto , but either way, not all of them are 3.36.

So I threw away my horns a long time ago in one of my many "clean the garage" events and now I need them. I went to oreilly and they want 15 bucks for a single horn so Im looking to go to the junkyard and pick up a coulple horns. I imagine as long as you can bolt the thing on and wire it up it will work just the same right? Hopefully there is some flexiblilty in the current avialable for the horns, I imagine certain louder horns might draw a bit more current. Either way, anyone have reccomendations for a good sounding horn off a car that youd find in a junkyard? Or have you done a replacement like this before? Id go and pull some off of a Z but the yards are out of Z cars right now.

Oh it's the alarm buzzer? Not a clicking/buzzing relay? Get a wiring diagram and see what's happening that it's getting a voltage periodically.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread29961.html Your lights still work?

What kind of car?

Looking good. Is your car lowered?

Ac coming on shouldn't drop it down to 3V. That's a huge drain. Does the engine bog down when it goes down to 3v?

Please make some distinction between sentences. It's the rules on hybridz. Is this a stock turbo engine? What year? Have you been able to check fuel pressure while in boost? Has it always done this, just started? We need more information from your end to help.

Nice! Sandblaster and compressor is definitely on my list of stuff I need. You putting in all urethane bushings?

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Searched 83 280zx ecu

Yeah I did last summer and am coming back in late June. I'm graduating next Sunday and will be out there full time. Are you in the area? Edit: just saw your location. You work for Boeing?

Lookin good! I'm sure your leaking heater core didnt help the rust problem on the floor boards. Haha Coil overs look good. Ill probably be doing something like that in the next year or so. Maybe when I blow my l28et I'll tear apart the whole front end like you did and get it sprayed body color. Haha So are you in Bellingham permenantly? I'll be in Everett starting in late June.

I don't completely understand your question but, an exhaust clamp (D shaped thing) will hold pipe together just fine. If you have a welder why not? I only left a clamp where my exhaust will need to come apart.