DatsunZman04

I know everyone bores out a 280z block rather than mess with a L24 (240z) block. I have a friend who needs to rebuild an engine for his stock 71. I have 3 L24 blocks laying around plus 280 cranks to make him a little more power but not a 280 block. So Heres the question. What is the max (sefely) you can bore a stock l24 block?? Can a L24 withstand 89mm overbore. Stock I believe is 83mm and a 280z should be around 86mm. You ask Why go 89mm?? I can get Ka24de pistons cheap at $100 a set forged. some left over from a kids drift project that didn't go anywhere. He bought 2 sets just in case. I can have it bored out and put these piston in cheaper than buying a 280 block and or buying new 240 z pistons. Plus I dont know if any of the used L24 blocks will needed to be bored to clean them up. I figure if I have to bore it I might as well go bigger This car will be mainly a decent modded street car, and not autocross. It will use either a 3100 head or the lower compression 72 model. Any help or advice would be greatful Thanks

I figured I would have to custom make one, I just thought somone on here would have some pics of one on there car to see how it turned out.

I am running out of room in my 240z to put aftermarket gauges, and I was wanting to fabricate a 3 tier pillar pod and mount this in my car. The problem is theres not much room between the windshield and the driverside door frame. I know this has been done before because I have seen YOUTUBE videos with Datsun Z's having them. If anyone has any information/ Pics/ Instructions that would be help full. I'am wanting to add a fuel pressure, Air to Fuel Ratio, and exhaust temp using 52mm or 2 1/16 gauges Thanks again,

where the radio goes? 2-1/8 http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/car-stereos/head-unit-din-sizes.html Most head units come in a standard size. Below the radio is the fuse box and I don"t think you will be putting anything in there, Some people have the plastic change holder there and remove it to put in a radio. As far as all the heat/ ac switches and light assembly I have no Idea without measuring it. Good luck

Sweet, Like always you have all the fun toys.

I do powder coating and the cost is in the prep work. Blasting by the hour is what kills. Powder is cheap and comes in various colors even in pearls. Harbor freight carry's a basic setup for about $70, and just use an old household oven at 325 degrees. You are doing small parts and not large bumpers so what do you have to loose. Do it yourself. The basic rate in the state of MO is. 75 an hour to blast, and 50 dollars to paint as much stuff as you can fit in a 5 gallon bucket. Or 50 to 75 for rim that has been prepped.

drain and measure how much fuel is in each float bowl and see if they are the same. It sound like a poor adjustment or something is stuck open.

I could put the speakers in the tool box area but I have a brand new Z deck mat from MSA that I don't want to cut into. I was just curios what everyone else has done to put speakers in the hatch.

You can always have them powdercoated mirrored Black for 25 to 50 bucks a rim

I think they sell the kit to go to the stock manifold just adaps to 1" and 7/8 (stock) But most people install a 6 to 1 header or 3 to 2 to help divide the twice pipes. Its your option.

You can make some power out of a rotary enging, we used one on a smaller pulling tractor and had it run on alchol and turned close 12 thousand easy. We ran it in a light all open class for years. They can be modified for a unique sound and power. I have even seen where a guy modified one to run off of propane. It didnt run run very good but it still worked. They are a clever designed little engines.

Aftermarket Centline definatley, most 4 lug 80's mustangs had them on it.

Thanks for the info, I guess I need to measure the z31 and see what the size is and decide if its worth swapping everything over. I just didnt want to buy a 15/16 when I might have a possible solution on hand.

I have purcased the toyota 4 piston calipers from a 84, I assume its th S12+8 version and got a decent set of pads. This is going on a 240z street and possibly once a year time trialing in the KC football stadium parking lot. I have done my research about this mod and dont want to be beating a dead horse but I do know you need the larger brake master cylander. Heres my question?? I have a brand new 300zx brake master cylander and booster asseymbly and was wondering if its large enough to handle the load of the new brakes. Next question? Will it have the same size fittings on the bottom/sides for the brakes since It has one resovoir instead of two?? Heres a pick of what I got, any help would be appreciated. Should I go with this setup or just buy the bigger 280z brake master cylander? Heres a noob question, why is their a differenace in brake rotors for the 72, 240z and the 74, 260z?? Black dragon and msa sells cross drilled and sloted rotors for the 260 and up. I thought the 240 and 260 front hubs and rotors were the same but I guess I am wrong??

I have seen some of these speaker panels around but I can never find one cheap and all they are is 4 pieces of mda plywood with carpet. I know I can make them myself but I was wondering if anyone has done it their self, and do you have the dimensions for it?? I know MSA sells one for around $150 I was just trying to save a couple of bucks. Any help is appreciated.

I dont remmember what I set the spark plug gap when I rebuilt the motor. Thats why I was asking if I should run a larger plug gap than stock running the pertronix ignitor and hotter coil. I can look up what the plug gap should be set up at on a Z. I can also just gauge what I am currently ruinning, I just wanted to make sure I am in the realm where I need to be or if I need to make some adjustments.

H4 lights, I bought the same kit to put in my 240 but they drawled so much juice I had to buy the relays and wire them directly to the battery with their headlight harness kit, I also bought the alt upgrade kit from MSA to up the amps from 40 to 60 on my alternator.

Buying a dash cap is a cheap fix, but I fixed mine with bedliner with Kevlar in a spray can and coted the whole dash then sanded it smooth to paint. It has held up for 5 years know in the weather.

What are the best plugs to run, I know theres thousands of brands and different types but what is most common or recommended?? What is the stock gap on the sprak plug suppose to be at??

I have bought a pertronix ignitor and flame thrower coil to go on my 72 240z, since I couldn't get my hands on a decent 280 distributor at a resonable price. My question is? They say you get a little better performance with the ignitor and obviously with a hotter coil due to being able to run larger plug gaps. What should my plug gaps be set at with this setup? Is their a better spark plug I should be using? Has anyone ran this setup with any sucess?? If anyone could help It would be appreciated. Thanks again experts!! 240 block, 240 head, su carbs, mild cam, 6 to 1 header, 2 1/2 exhaust, itg air cleaners, MSA taylor pro plug wires, pertronix ignitor and flame thrower coil.

I guess I should have posted this in the 6 cylinder forum, My bad

I have rebuilt my 72 240z, and completley rebuilt the entire engine, rings pistons bearings the whole nine yards. I have recently acquired a 260 crank and a 280z motor. The 280 z needs the lower end rebuilt it smoked alot. Heres my big dielema. Should I just swap my 240 crank with the 260 to up my motor to a 2.6?? or just rebuild my 280 lower end and swith the higher compression heads off the 240 and go that route. Or just not worry about it at all. Would I see any power differance, throttle response, or anything if I just changed cranks?? would it even be worth the effort?? This is weekend/ daily driver/ show car and I was just trying to up it in power range a little. I bet this has been addressed before but I cant find anyone that has switched and noticed any differance. Any info would be helpful, you gise are the experts i'am just an athusiast. Thanks again Datsun Zman04

MSA sells a inline kit to connect under your stering wheel to connect into your head lifht switch. this directs all power through a relay and go through the relay and not the switch so you dont have to worry about buring up wires or your fuse block. The rear tail lights are black with yellow stripes and blue with red stripes. If you have no power to the back of the car follow the wires up and under the dash until you get power. Worse comes to worse, you can always run a jumper wire from the hot from the front and see if you trip the back lights to come on. Just an idea. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SRC19/12-4652 Is a link if it something that you think might help

I guess I should have read your post first, I am having the same issue with my cast header also. I just dont wanna tap and put in larger studs to tighten down a lowsy 3 bolt flange. Good luck to you

I have a 72 Datsun 240 z with a 240 block and head. I am still using the stock cast header that came on the car. My porblem is the gasket between the exhaust pipe and the lower part of the header keeps blowing out. I have tried a new gasket, with High temp rtv silicone, I have also tried making my own using gasket material, I have also tried taking some old small donut gaskits and tried that but still blows out after a week or so. I have taken the header off and made sure it wasn't warped or had any left over resdue from previous gaskets/ silicone. I need to buy a 6 to 1 header but my money is going to my v8 project and dont want to spend it on that if not going to be used. I am scared to over tighten the studs on the manifold for fear of twisting them off. Then I will have some serious problems. As far as I can tell it sits and mounts up flush but that wouldnt explain the blow outs. Has anyone else have had similar problems? I am just looking for some advice or a decent direction to be pointed in. Thanks again Datsunzman04