DatsunZman04

Thats a work of art, I wished I had that setup. good work.

Forgot to add you needed the headlight relay kit to get the full potential of the new brighter bulbs, you dont have to but it doesnt hurt. Have you priced a new headlight switch lately? good luck

They can be wired in with no problems, You will need different power source to run the halo ring, I built my set, and it looks good. I would recrommend you to buy the headlight relay kit to redirect the power from the headlight switch and draw it directly from the battery. Just my opinion, FYI do a 3/4 ring to give your z a MEANER look,open end towards the hood of the car. good luck

So I installed the dash lights/parking lights relay kit that MA supply to take the power away from the switch. I than couldnt find out why my lights werent working so I ran a jumper wire over from my new relay, so all my parking lights come on. It sounds weird but it works till I get a complete painless wiring harness installed. Thanks for the help everyone.

ok so my best bet is to buy a set of springs and struts. So for my application should I use coilovers? It would be around the same cost. Thanks everyone for your replys.

I am currently installing my smallblock 350 in my 72 240z and had a simple question on my springs. JTR ( the handbook) says under hard throttle the car will pitch hard and stiffer springs are a must. As of know I have a stock springs and struts in the front and rear. www.xenons30.com/springs.htl says the year spring lbs for a 72/73 is 103.6lbs.and a 75 280z is 127.7lbs. So heres my question, I have a set of 280 springs and lower control arms with new bushings. Should I just so a swap, or buy stiffer springs from Elbach / arizona Z and so fourth. I do need to stay close with the same ride height for tire clearances. Or option B buying a set of coil overs for 125. on ebay and go that route. Either way I need to switch the springs and add new struts. What are your guys thoughts or concerns. This is for a daily driver/ show car, mild 400 hp small block enginge 700r4 tranny. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again DatsunZman04

That is a great price for the air dam. I love the looks of mine but after a few years they tend to flex and start to crack the paint in the corners. Just a tad bit of info you probab;e already new. Good luck with your build.

I went to the Website and found some good information on cams and spring rates, and some on how to wire in the euro (led) tailights, but I didnt see anything about wiring diagrams or color charts for the lights. I appreciate the help, But I will have to keep looking, Thanks again.

I have had my 72 240z for some time, and I have neglected the wiring issues in it. I left it alone because it worked and the previous owner frankensteined it. Know all the sudden I have lost all running lights and rear turn signal lights. Gauges, headlights, and front turn signals seem to all work. I have taken the turn signal and headlight switch apart and cleaned it but that made no differance. The previous owner re routed the power for the lights due to the fuse block melting. I bought a new fuse block and a kit to redu the relays to help get the load of power of the headlight switch. So heres My question, Does anyone having a wiring diagram for the lights/ color code for the rear of the car. I would just like to have a guide to see what the hell the previous owner has done. I appreciate the help,

It looks Like a solid 2 piece mock up of a g nose, The eybuckets look solid with the front nose were a basic g nose is not. I have never seen one quite like that just your basic g nose front end kit, good luck finding more info about.

Cars looking like that deserve to be in the misonian museum on display. Sweet ride, I wished mine looke half as good. heres a beer for you.

I wouldn't recommend the l24 block either. If your spending that kind of money right off the start , begin with something with a little more cubic inches. You might be able to get away with swapping a 260 0r 280 crank to a l24 block to give you a 2.6 liter AKA 260z platform. I would recommend new head bolts and the 240sx 60mm throttlebodie upgrade. Thats just my 2 cents, It isnt worth much but can point you in the right direction. Good luck on your build.

Motosportauto.com sells v8 swap kits also besides jags that Run(JTR). Occasional a kit comes up on ebay also. Good luck on your build.

Just Flip them up side down and run it straight throught the hood, Without cutting them off at the collector re bending new pipes and running them straight to the back and not out the passenger door. Not sure how to do it without a complete custom setup plus you may need to cut the lower part of your firwall for clearance. The key is to keep the pipes the same length to not change the exhaust sound/ pitch. If you figure out a way please take pics and post, I would love to see a actual pair fitted. I took measurment from my old pair, and guestomated the fitment would exit out the passenger door on a s30 datsun, It would exit between the door jam and front fender. Everyone one of those 180 degree headers wrap around the back of the HEI and and down off to the passenger side. Good luck on your build

I have recently purchased the toyota brake calipers for a little upgrade on my 240z. I noticed my rotors look terrible and wanted to know if what is the best rotors to buy without changing the hubs? Could I use a 81 maxima rotor? or is it the same size? Or should I just buy a pair of standard sized slotted and cross drilled rotors. I was just wanting some insight, I know theres probalably thousands of combinations and these questions being asked all the time. I just need a decentcheap fix so I can get my car back on the road. Any help would be appreciated thanks, DatsunZman04 P.S I will be switching my brake booster, master cylander, and a proportioning valve so the calipers will be working properly.

So where could a person find a set of 180 degree stall headers?? like above ?? Or is this a design for a custom shop to make, like a template?

Good thing about 180 degree headers is that you wont need an x pipe or h pipe/ cross over pipe for back pressure. One might get a 5% gain but really isnt worth the extensive mods to get them to work. Your basic sanderson/ shcoenfield headers were designed for dirt track racing. Most of them exited through the driverside door. Heat was always a problem, I had a set on my sportsman racecar for years. They would glow cherry red after a few laps, they were so hot, you couldnt work on the car. And for god sakes do not mess with the hei when hot lol. If you could get them to fit and be practical that would be awesome. I would love to fit a set in a v8 swapped s30. If you get this acomplished please send some pics I would love to see some details. godd luck with your build.

Good post, and thanks for the pics, That guage makes my mod look like a hack job. Good job

Thanks for the quick responses, I just didnt want to tear my car apart piece by piece to blast and powder coat. I just wanted to do all the pieces then just do a swap in one days time. I see that the springs are differant and isolators. I guess my best bet would be to interchange the hubs and use my stock control arms. I just wanted to save some time and effort and glad i asked. Thanks for the info

Hello, I have a basic question I dont seem to have an answer for. I am in the middle of finishing my build on my 72 240z. I want to powder coat the control arms and springs / mustache bar etc. My question is I have a 75 rear setup just laying around, and wanted to blast it and powder coat those pieces and do a swap. Is there any differance between the two to interchange? Is there a differance in spring height or strength? Will the hubs interchange? I do believe the bushings would be the same. Or should I just take off the conteol arms and springs out of my 72 and just use those. I know this has probably have been done or atleast asked before, so any help would be preferred. Thanks, DatsunZman04

Thanks that was more than I needed, thanks again,

I have a 72 Datsun 240z, with a old robotic Autozone Mirror only on the drivers side. While at a car show a fat kid leaned up against my car a broke it where it wont stay in place. No biggy they arent worth anything to began with. I would like to add some fender mirrors for a different look and finding many styles and shapes with totally differeant price ranges. Can somone tell me some pros and cons of theses mirrors? How hard is the installation? Do they mount in front of the front tires or in the center? Are there any templates or exact measurments where their suppose to be? I know these are some silly question, but Iam in the process of painting my car a diff color and nows the time for me to decide if I need to weld over the holes from the old mirror. Any help with the questions and some pics would be appreciated. DatsunZman04

240z Tachs are know to be sketchy at hi temps and poorley unacurate. Your early 240's tach are not compatable with a eltronic ignition (pertronix).They require a resitor soldered in to make them compatable. You can always hook up a temp rpm tach to make sure everythings working correctly. I would check all wires, then I would put the original rotor and points in just to see if it makes a differance (if available). Just my 2 cents, I know this really doesnt help you but good luck.

I would buy a cabinet for the smaller stuff, Use a tarp and blast your frame rails outside and reuse your media which you collected with your tarp. I never messed with soda blasting and dont really know much about it. If you wanted to really save yourself money, buy your own powder coating gun from harbor freight for 69.00 then your pant is only 10 to 20 dollars depending on color/ metalic/pearl choices. Get you a old house oven and remove the bottom rack to suspend your parts. It only has to be 350 to 425 degrees for atiquite curing. I took two 55 gal drums turned them end for end and welded them together. Cut me a door and welded a hanging rack in side. I then starpped a dolly on it for mobility, I then added legs and mounted a large propane burner with regulator on the bottom for a heat source. Added 2 temp gauges and oven seals to the door, then painted the oven with High Temp Black paint. So for little more than 200 dollars, I bought all the supplies to do my own powdercoating. Suppliers, Harbor Freight.com, Eastwood.com It's just some options for you. Good Luck With Your Build

I see, thanks for the picture of your side skirts. I like how you modded the skirt shorter in the front. I thought about it but decided to take the easy route. I will find something to make a smootheir transition on the car. I have this weekend to figure it out and start painting them to match the car. I will have to post a before and after pic. I dont believe I will mess with flares, since I dont have diff hubs or nice wide rims. It would be hard to fill the void. I am already running 245 65 r14s on the back and 175 70r 14 in the front I think, somwhere around that ballpark.