Yorgee

Haha, Not a problem though. Least now I know there is an alternative I can purchase if mine ends up not working for any reason.

After you slot it, Make sure your able to move the shock assembly back and forth with out hitting the roof also. Just in case you have to change the camber. Might as well drill it large enough so you don't have to go at it again later.

Yeah Braap, I came across an Australian site as well. Most surge tanks that came up in my search were for coolant overflow. And Joe, I know saving time is important but wasting a few hours making my surge tank only cost me a sunday afternoon and about 8 dollars, I'm trying to save as much money as possible. Plus I'd never pass up a good opportunity to pull the welder out. That's exactly what I'm doing to do though, have my old 5 psi pump fill the surge tank then have the high pressure on the other end, supplying the injectors.

Hmmm, I guess I didn't go far back enough on the search. I'll go check it out.

Hey Bryan, I ended up just drilling holes on the under side of my hood where the shocks were hitting. Solved the problem. Not sure if your willing to go that route though.

Haven't really been posting much on hybrid lately. But have been doing a lot of reading. Planning to install MS pretty soon and have all the components I need to get the job done. The only thing I was missing was a 280z gas tank so I wouldn't run into an fuel starvation problems with my new configuration. But I came across a link someone had posted about a surge tank (http://www.sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm) that seemed to be fairly simple to make. And this is what I came up with on Sunday. I'm almost finished with it, I kinda ran out of weld. But it was holding up to 50-60 psi until I welded on the last nut. Just have to fix a small leak, then it should be good to go. I just took a basic cylinder of galvanized steel(only place that was open was ACE and they had threaded pieces of pipe) and welded on these two half circles of metal I had bought earlier to make some hub caps for my wheels. It's about the size of one of those Large Arizona Ice tea cans and holds about a pint of liquid( which was recommended on the site). I'm planning on just using the stock 240z tank.This should work.....right?

Haha thanks cygnus, no need to spend extra money on tools when you have patients to use the tools you have. But I did have one of those 65mm drill holes Tony D, but I thought it would be too big. So I just went the next size down.

Yeah, I tried putting the throttle body the way you have yours cruez, but I ended up with a small exposed hole from the intake. When the throttlebody is flipped so that the throttle linkage on the opposite side, the throttle hits the intake, and you need the one inch spacer. Atleast, I think that is why you need it.

First I drilled a hole on the inside that was about 50mm. Then cut that out. After that I used a grinder attached to an air compressor to enlarge the hole. Griding the 60mm I had traced from a gasket I made, then polished it.

I was going to buy the Palnet spacer but thought I'd try and make one myself. Was tough to make the 60mm hole, but I think it'll work.

Ouch, that's going to set you back a few. Luckily that piece didn't shoot through the inside of the car. I remember my friend telling me I'd have to get some kinda of protection if you get those light flywheels, now I see why.

Thanks for the info chris, first time I've ever seen something like that but I guess it makes sense. And I agree with you rob, it's not the prettiest mod. Yahoo japan usually has some high quality parts. But I guess someone with some experience could turn that work in progress into a work of art as well.

http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/95583899 I saw this auction on yahoo japan while I was searching for fender mirrors. Is that done for higher compression or something? It would be hard to weld everything evenly to have the compression the same in every cylinder. That is if that is what they were trying to accomplish. Anyone have any ideas or seen this before??

That's exactly what I was thinking about doing Zr8ed, but the guy at the metal shop told me that a piece of aluminum was going to run me around 200 bucks?!? So I just decided to try something a little less expensive. He was probably thinking I wanted a thicker gauge sheet but like you said, you only need a pretty thin one enough to hold the air dam forward once it's secure. It would have to be around 5 feet wide and by the looks of your picture maybe 2 1/2 feet to read the cross member right?

Good point Dragonfly. The way I angled the brackets, it's not completely horizontal, it's at an angle. If I were to hit a curb, which I've done before and hope to not do again, I'm sure the way I have it set up, the aluminum would be the one bending down with the air dam and there for make it very hard to puncture a hole.

After seeing Big Daves' pictures of my car on the street, I never realized how weak my front air dam was. It's all bent from the wind and it looks nasty. So I bought a long piece of aluminum and decided to fabricate some brackets to support the air dam from getting all distorted. Thanks again for taking the great pics Dave, I would have never known my air dam was all messed up if it wasn't for them.

Sorry man they are already gone, my dads friend wanted them for his sons truck.

haha, He works for mazda and they were going to crush a preproduction miata and my dad asked his supervisor what they were going to do with the seats and if he could have them.

thanks guys, now I have to get used to sitting really low in my Z. I feel like a truck driver with the shifter being so high. I think I'm going to take your advice Justin and section out my shifter to lower it and definitely get a larger steering wheel. 320mm is way to small now.

Yeah, those ccw's are very nice but for that price, if I could afford them that is, I'd still go with the Watanabes.

Finallllly, my dad was able to get a hold on these new 2007? miata seats and they looks sweet. They are going to fit a lot better than the mazda 3 ones I have in my car right now. Just a matter of trimming the mounting brackets off and bolting it straight to the rack. I don't know what I'm doing with my old seats but if anyone's interested just shoot me a PM. Old seats....

Not sure, I'm going to open the carbs up today to make sure there is nothing going on inside, then try messing with the idle and mixture screw some more.

Well, it all started when I let my dad take my car to work in the morning because I needed a more fuel efficient car to drive to corona. When I get back, my dad tells me that my car died on him and gave him hell on the way back home. He basically had to hotwire the ignition straight to the coil to start the car and constantly use the choke to keep it running. So we were under the impression that the engine wasn't getting enough spark with the stock alternator. Luckily, we had picked up an alternator from a 280zx at a junk yard a while back and we were able to find some information online on how to intall it with the 240z harness. Using a diode and bridging some wires from the voltage regulator, it turned out great, the car starts instantly (even when cold). But about my engine. Its a l28, f54 block from an 81 280zx with dual downdraft 32/36 Webers. I was disapointed with how late the secondaries kicked in on the carbs so I had an idea of modifying the linkage a little bit. I wish I had my camera so I could take a picture of what I did... But basically, the little lever on the throttle that comes in contact with the secondary valve, I elongated it. I made it bigger to come into contact faster to open up the secondaries at a lower RPM. It turned out pretty insane, a definate power increase. The car drove fine after the modification. Which has me stumped now... I cleaned the sparkplugs, new points on the distributor, new more powerful alternator but still, somethings wrong. When I went to drive it, as soon as i hit the secondarys, the engine just completely chokes, struggles to stay running and when I engage the clutch, the car shuts off and can't stay on under its own power. Now I'm worried that my modification might be throwing in to much air?(but it was working fine before) Because I've tried tunning the carbs, moving the idle and mixture screw all sorts of directions to get a perfect throttle response, but still have the same problem. The distributor is advancing properly, I'm not sure what else it could be. So if anyone has any idea what the problem could be, I'm in dire need of some assistance. My car is just not drivable...and summer school starts on monday haha. I'm not taking no bus.

Those are 16 x 9 and 16 x 9 1/2 RS Watanabes I beleive...