Yorgee

Will do Tony, Shouldn't take me too long to finish it up.

I've always thought the stock grill on the 240z with my front air dam was too short. I wanted it to extend all the way down passed the front bumper. So I decided to buy some metal. Two 20 foot long 1/4 inch (square) rods at what I thought was a pretty cheap price of only 15$. Here are some pictures of what I've come up with. I have most of it done but I ran out of weld and daylight. Still have to add 2 more rows to the bottom, some mounting brakets and then do some final trimming and grinding to even things out. Compared to the original.

It almost looks like the whole left side of the air dam was bent in for some reason.

Wow, very nice work man. And I thought those wide body fenders were just fiberglass molds, was I wrong.

I noticed on the new rim they gave me, they changed the way they insert the rivets. They stick out a lot more and they seem to be a screw in type rivets instead of the ones on my other rims that are just pushed in and not sticking out at all (I'll try and get a picture). But it never hurts to be on the safe side. I'd say go ahead and try the JB Weld if you want to.

Yeah, I don't mean to blame MSA on selling me the wrong spacer, I never considered the problem might be because of the rims I have. I was just a little mad at the time (2 am and I wanted to take it for a test drive after working on it all day, only to find out I can't fit my front wheels.) ... haha. But good news is I got my car back on the ground and the ride feels great. Like a completely different car. I was going to post some pictures but it got kind of dark outside. I'll try and take some tomorrow.

Just incase anyone was interested...I was able to get a replacment rim from JLB motorsports.

ha, thats cool, I don't mind the topic switch. I think these carbs pull a lot better than the SU's, and the SU's that I had before were built by Ztheropy too. The SU was more like a burst a power but slowly died as the engine rev'd up. Not to mention the sound the webers make, they sound awesome. I was just dropping my car off of the car stands when I noticed my front rims were hitting the tie rod ends. I think the bump steer adapters MSA sold me are the wrong size...

Yah I decided to take off the bondo last night, never thought about the bondo cracking though, that's a good point. I'll leave it how it is for now and maybe try the liquid metal later on. And as for the washers under those bolts, I just had them off because I was moving the bolts around to make sure the camber plate would be able to slide freely both ways. Update: I picked up my coilovers at Vildini Motorsport yesterday, and they did an excellent job. I was able to install the front 2, they look awesome.

Yeah, I had some piping laying around and I was going to weld a couple mounts and put heim joints on both ends of the pipe but my friend talked me out of it. So I decided to make something else.

I actually received a call from JLB last thursday and He told me I was to remove the tire from the rim and bring the rim to them so they could send it to the manufacturer because Sportmax wanted to take a look at the rim themselves so they could approve the defect and give me a new one. I'm hoping it doesn't take too long...

I did exactly what Lunar did. I measured from the back of the engine bay along side the walls, and then used a long straight edge to make them parallel.

Bad ass drawing, I like those zg flare shoulders.

Thanks Arizonazcar for your an excellent installation guide for 240z camber plates. I'm currently in the process of installing some coilovers on my Z and I was able to finish the front two camber plates last weekend. I based a lot of what I did on the guide I found on Arizonazcar and thought it would be a good idea to take some picture of my process as well. It never hurts to show these kinds of procedures, never know when someone might need the info and I'm hoping it can help someone. (just excuse my welding...haha) http://geocities.com/yorgola555/camberplateinstall.html I'm still planning on putting a little bondo to smooth out the strut towers. Is there something better I could use??

What is wierd is that it only happend on just one rim. Maybe after a while the others will start showing the same problem and I'm looking out for that. But the guy from jlb said that maybe the clear coat didn't protect it enough, so yeah it has a clear coat. But on the rim that does show the rust, not just those two I took pictures of show that. It's actually 12 in a row, practically half number of rivets on the rim show this rust. My guess is that water is entering from behind the rivets because it doesn't look like there is a clear coat on the back side(which is wierd if your going to be putting those fake rivets.)

I bought a set of Sportmax 002 15x8's not too long ago and noticed that I wasn't the only one who thought they might look good on a 240z. I just wanted to share something that has happend to one of my rims recently. If you did buy a set as well, this is something you should look out for. I called JLB motorsports and they told me to send them an email with these photos showing aluminum rust around those imitation rivets. They said they would send them the photos to the manifacturer to try and get me a new rim (hopely). But I don't think there is much to stop the other rims from doing the same thing. But yeah, just wanted to inform who ever bought these rims to look for the same problem. Especially if you just bought them...

Damn, I've got the same problem with my speedometer; I never know how fast I'm going. I'm just planning on getting new gauges, yet it would be a shame to get rid of the old school look of the stock gauges. If there's a way them, that'd be awesome.

Thanks a lot Tom! and my bad for not searching around for the info myself but I needed some info fast because I was thinking about just buying some shorter springs at Motorsport on friday, and I just wanted to be sure because I'm new to all the suspension adjustments and all that. Now I know i'll need a lot more than just some springs. Thanks again.

I'm at the point on my 240 project where the last thing there is to really do is to drop it and I want to know a couple things. I'm searching along the lines of coil over kits and I've heard a lot of people talking about the ground control set up. So I checked them out and the price seems pretty decent, but I'm just not sure how they work exactly. Before you check out, they ask you to choose the type of strut you will be using and I noticed they include a "stock" selection. http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/gc6015-01 I was just wondering if anyone on this forum has the ground control springs with the stock strut set up. I know you have to do a little fabrication but I would rather know how to do it before I buy anything. They say you have to remove the stock spring seat...then what? I was also wondering, because I'm planning on dropping my car atleastttt 2 inches, if I really need to buy camber plates. How much camber would that drop produce (with a 2 inch drop)?

I'm not exactly sure, I bought my car not too long ago and they were already rebuilt and installed. When I took them off to clean them though, I noticed a date inscribed on them that said 11-08-04. So I'm guessing that's when they were worked on. Not sure what they did though. They were working good though, a lot of power if you stepped on it.

I just wanted to inform who ever might be interested. I'm selling my SU carb set up on ebay right now. Asking $230 for it all (buy it now price). If your interested check it out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=180056533928&rd=1,1 here are some bigger pictures. when it was on my engine:

Yeah, that's exactly what I did. I grinded off all the chrome before I started welding.

Yeah, I had to play around with the carbs for a while and now its starting up fine.Then I just pulled the spark plugs this morning and they were fulllll of carbon. The SU's haven't been running right for a while which sucks since its a rebuilt engine. Hopefully once the DGV webers I bought come in, I'll be able to adjust those correctly and not have this problem again. But thanks guys for your responses, thanks for the help. I'm just glad it wasn't a vacuum leak Pop n Wood. My brother had one in his mustang and he had to tear apart the engine after having put on new heads and an intake manifold. He did all that work and it just ended up being a bad intake gasket that wasn't sealing. I did not want to have to do that...

Yeah, I've got SU carbs right now and I played around with the idles and all that and it has been running fine for about a month or so. It just struck me as weird how it just all of a sudden didn't want to start.