Ben's Z

Ok, I took out and installed my new throwout bearing collar today, it was shorter than the other one. I also used a Turbo clutch fork. I went to install my slave cylinder again, and the rod was still too long. I said to hell with it and cut down the rod some. I took a picture of the rod next to my tape measure. I don't even think this is the correct rod. What is up with these threads? I took off about 1/4-3/8 of an inch and now my clutch seems like it has too much slack. I have not tried adjusting it thought. What are your thoughts on this rod? Wrong one? Some redneck ingenuity?

I was going to run an intercooler, sorry I didn't mention it.

1) My 77 harness has a female bullet connector for the oil pressure sending unit. The turbo sending unit has two male blade connectors. Why is there an extra one and how will this hook up? 2) How is anyone getting a BOV between the AFM and throttle body. Just browsing at what I have tonight I cannot see anything other than the boots fitting in there. Can someone show me some pictures? 3) Does the 3 center exhaust port studs get the same 3 thick washers as the other studs that do both the intake and exhaust? Thanks

Use 2 stage urethane. More durable and polishes better than enamel.

No tires though....

I have a set of 4 steel wheels here in Houston and I come to Austin all of the time for work. They have 280zx hub caps. I got them and the lug nuts $60.

Tony, you talking about the pad area where the air cleaner was on the original set up? There abouts? I was trying to get the ECU to sit further against the body inside the car. I will work on that one.

I need a stock T3 turbo, that is bolt on ready. No garbage.

From what I read, if and when I use the Bell RRFPR I still need my factory fuel pressure regulator, or at least some other FPR. You guys with billet rails, what are you using in conjunction with the bell unit and where is the main FPR location on your set up? Also my recon'd turbo injectors have about 4" of EFI hose on them, what should I trim that back to before I slip them on the barbed fittings in the billet rail. Thanks

Getting down to the final days (I hope) on the turbo motor swap and have a few questions for the experts. 1)How is everyone mounting the turbo ecu in the spot the N/A 280z ECU slot? 2)How are you guys mounting the AFM on the S30 AFM pad?

I don't think this is true, I believe the forks are different. I ordered both today. Any secrets to a garage floor transmission removal? I was thinking cinder blocks on all 4 wheels stacked two high...

Another thought. Does a shorter slave cylinder rod work, or possibly a different slave cylinder altogether from a different Nissan? I found a new bearing w/sleeve on rockauto.com Timken or National/Federal Mogul. They also have a turbo fork too.

Ok, so I need a 2+2/turbo collar AND a 2+2/turbo fork? Or just the collar?

Ok I leveraged my 18" prybar against the fork and got the slave cylinder installed. Fork is now about half way between front and back as you can see. Pedal is stiffer but this is a stage 1 clutch. "Feels" like clutch is "right there", not sure if I need to adjust or I was able to force that slave cylinder on with the prybar so the clutch is technically engaged? Thoughts?

I can compress the plunger on the slave cylinder all the way with my hand, so that is not the issue. Under normal conditions is there any tension on the fork from the slave cylinder?

I KNOW FOR A FACT, the spacer was left out from the automatic, that I do know.

It wiggles some, but barely.

that brass looking piece won't let the fork move.

I put the motor and transmission in, in one shot. I went to put the slave cylinder back on last night and couldn't compress it enough to bolt it back up. I am using my N/A 77 trans with a Exedy Stage 1 clutch with a turbo motor. Using all components from the exedy kit. I tried putting vise grips and pipe on the clutch fork and it won't move back hardly at all.

I think I am going to go with this and swedge down from the 2.5 to 2" with come couplers.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/390071538872 Saw another thread that you don't want to exceed 26" over all size...

Did some more looking. BOV after AFM (preferred) vent back into intake. BOV before AFM, vent to atmosphere. I am going to make it fit between the throttle body and AFM.

Here are some thing I am still needing to buy to finish my install. FMIC and Pipe. http://www.ebay.com/itm/28-Front-Mount-Intercooler-2-Aluminum-Piping-Kit-/250828538746?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a668bc37a&vxp=mtr I believe it might be a little wide to go through the holes in the core support. What are your suggestions for a wideband? Does the motorsport downpipe have an O2 bung welded in it already? Sort of cluesless on blow off valve. I can dump in to the atmosphere or back through intake correct?

I really just want to run my stock manual fan and don't want the IC piping running underneath the car. I will not cut holes in the body. What pipe diameter would I need to be able to run my pipe between the fron the engine and radiator?

At least you answered my original question about which cam sprocket hole to use.... I'd also question using an aggresive turbo cam with using the stock ECU, like I intend for the near term.