Ben's Z

I did all the shit. I have no green light and the fuel pump will not prime. Relay is mounted to passenger washer nozzle screw. Relay is grounded to copper AC line bolt below hood latch support on the fire wall. Ran branch wire off of green wire on efi relay to green bullet connector behind passenger seat, I did nothing with the black wire and nothing with the original green wire that was plugged in. Just added bullet to my wire and plugged it in. Black and green wire at 8 pin ZXT harness under drivers dash are grounded to the same hood release cable bracket bolt. One of the yellow and white wires off of 8 pin zxt is spliced and soldered into black and yellow striped ignition wire. Other yellow and white wire on 8 pin zxt under the dash goes out to the ignitor. Blue and red wire are plugged into 6 pin harness from relay. black and white relay wire are connected at + on battery terminal Whoa shit as I write this in my garage I just noticed my coil stunk, and it was hotter than hell. I just had my ignition on to listen to the radio. Think I smoked the coil?

Well I cranked the engine tonight, and it turned over. Still don't have the pin 16 eccs to efi relay hooked up yet. I'm not sure if I should be too happy about the engine spinning over, not sure which percentage of the battle that is. I disconnected the green wire behind the passenger seat and put a new female bullet on my wire from my fuel pump relay and plugged it in. I left the old green wire coming from the front of the car just laying there.

I am still a little confused on this. The blue and red wire comes out of the relay and plugs in to the 6 pin connector on the harness, then that same color wire dissappears into the abyss in the efi harness. There is no "end" to the wire as the diagram shows above. I didn't cut off my 6 pin connector on the harness side.

Does this sound right.... I ran the B/W wire from the ignition relay from the passenger engine bay through the body harness grommet on the passenger fire wall over the transmission tunnel and soldered it and the homemade wire from the ignitor to the center spot B/W wire at the ignition switch. Bueller? Let me riddle this. Previous owner had cut the red and white wire in the steering column ran a jumper to the red and white on the ignition plug and then ran a wire from that to the positive on the battery.... I took it all out and put it back to original. He also had a universal relay with 4 wires going into 1 wire on the ignition harness for what I believe is the fuel pump anti theft switch. No idea about the wire to the battery+

Ok I'm confused again. On the diagrams provided by cygnusx1 and the colored one, but specifically cygnusx1's are his plugs supposed to be looked at from where it plugs in or is that the view of wires going in to the plugs??? Because i see on the other schematic plug 2, black wire is grounded but I have green grounded because on the Cygnus schematic green is where black is on the colored one for plug 2

I took both spade from the brown and green and cut them off putting on one ring terminal for both and connected it to the positive on the battery... I think i found this. It had one blue wire and blue wire with a white stripe. I took a chance and cut the striped wire. I took both cut end and put them in a 14 ga. female spade and took my wire from the - on the coil and put on a male spade and connected the two. I hope what you were referring to was black and a rubbery plastic that had end that pulled off revealing a male and female bullets on either side.... I see a green and black wire running behind the passenger seat, both have shielded bullet connections. Which one do I splice in to and do I simply unplug that one and plug in my new one or is one of the existing wires still needed? Okay I took this female spade connector off of the distributor until I get this part... Haven't got to this yet.

I am a little confused on the cygnusx1 notes on the wire to Pin 16 on the ECU. Shouldn't that pin be taken by the ecu pigtails? How are you splicing into that?

Thanks for the response. I should have noted this is a 1983 harness and I believe you did your swap with a 1981. Does this change things?

A local Z buddy and I got may some headway today on the harness, even without the ignition harness I accidentally chucked at the coil. Looking at both the wiring diagrams from the sticky, the one provided by cygnusx1 and the more colored elaborate one I have a couple of questions. 1) When we had to make the harness that is comprised of the dotted line on the tutorial we did the following. I cut off the unused female "T" plug from underneath the dash on the zxt harness to use on the ignitor. We soldered on a connection to the distributor WITHOUT a condensor (must have got tossed). (Will it run without this?) We than continued on and used the opposite side plug on "Plug 3" of the tutorial. (We didn't cut off the plugs as seen in the sticky thread, instead we chose to use the plugs) We didn't know if that wire coming from the distributor and ignitor should be spliced to the zxt male plug/plug3 B/W wire then to the ignition or if the ignition needs to be between the two? 2) I ran my green fuel pump relay wire through an existing hole in the body harness grommet below the battery tray into the cockpit and underneath the plastic door trim. The previous owner has a fuel pump kill switch behind the passenger seat. Should I just tap into these wires for the relay, or actually send it out to the pump itself? I also mounted and grounded the fuel pump relay to the screw holding in the passenger washer nozzle squirter to the fire wall. Will this work? 3) We ran a single blue wire from the negative coil through through the speedo gear hole to go to the tach. For the life of me I cannot see anything on my back looking up behind the gauges. How hard is it to reach the tach, and what needs to be done the plug that in? 4) "Plug 1" BR and G, are these mounted to the + battery post? I took them out of the black zxt box they were housed in and still have the spade connectors on them. Do I need any other wires from that black box?

I reclocked the turbo and my 2" IC pipe runs underneath the oil pan now.

Do these plugs that come in the driver side firewall with the 3 ecu plugs need to be spliced in to something? I also cannot remember if this picture of this single plug went to anything on my old harness? Or does it serve a purpose now?

I think I went the other way on the EFI harness and have too much excess crap. Do I need that black box with the white wires that was on the ZX strut tower? I seem to have things not found in any of the pictures, but don't want to get all crazy with the wire cutters. I also have two green relays. I know one is EFI is the other ignition?

Is the ECCS the ECU? I keep seeing this extra harness (2 wire?)coming through the drivers side fire wall on the 280zx, but all I have left is the 3 plugs for the Turbo ECU. Is there any "box" I need for the ignition harness? Should I use my N/A coil now?

Somehow, someway when I scrapped the rusted out 280zxt donor I must have sent the ignition harness with it. As I was reading the wiring tutorials and threads I noticed I didn't have anything resembling that harness. I must have chucked it. Should I find another or can I use my 77 ignition harness somehow?

I just realized I must have junked my ignition harness from the 83 donor 280zxt. How f'ed am I?

So I hacked up my old 280zxt intake boot in the meantime. I should cut a hole in that and dump excess boost between the afm and turbo inlet?

I have 2" IC pipe. I reclocked the turbo to run the IC pipe out of the turbo, under the oil pan, infront of the oil filter and then past where the charcoal canister use to be then into the IC. I am trying to figure out how to mount my BOV, but between the fan shroud, coil and I am guessing the hood I am limited on space. I need to order my 29mm adapter to recirc my excess pressure back to the intake. Without having my adapter yet can you tell me the size of the hose you are using? I know it is smaller than the outlet in the BOV, but how much smaller? I was going to have my BOV bung TIG welded this week. I am using a N42 intake. How big of a hole are you putting in the intake to recirc the excess boost pressure and where on the intake?

I paid $750 for an old wore out rusty 154k 83 280zxt with an automatic. Head ended up being garbage, so yes I probably paid a little too much. I was able to sell the swastika wheels for $180, and got another $200 in scrap with the car whacked up in to 3 pieces, so not too bad.

I don't have any 90's around me to measure. I guess what is the leg length of the inside corner on a standard length leg 2" silicon 90 degree elbow?

Looks like you are running larger than 2" on your IC pipe. A quick search on ebay yielded no 2" ID long leg elbows. Did you buy them somewhere else?

I bought an IC from just intercoolers on ebay, only to have one of my mounting tabs be defective. I think they are going to take care of me, and I actually might buy a little longer IC. Overall it was 25.5". It would work but.... Is anyone running an IC 27.5" total length? Because I was thinking some 90 degree silicon elbows might just be perfect for going through the cold air holes in the rad support if I get the longer IC.

Excellent, thanks.

I am missing one of my fittings that threads into the turbo and goes to the waste gate actuator. Where can these be found?

I do know that the best place for a bov is right before the throttle body. I've only owned one turbo car before in my life and only briefly. It discharged excess pressure to the atmosphere. Frankly I didn't want want the blow off woosh, I was trying to push it back into the motor, which I thought was protocol to eliminate the noise, I guess I am wrong.

Well I hadn't really took a look at my turbo intake yet, it was in storage above my garage. The one you see in the picture was just loosely on there and was from my n42 intake. In reference to my bov, I thought excess pressure was plumbed back in to the intake.