Ben's Z

Am I close?

(Will solder when it ever runs) 280zxt female harness Green and black to ground Yellow w/white stripe to 280z female ignition plug recepticle that has black w/yellow stripe to ignition switch Yellow wire to coil

Here is my 280z ignition harness. Wiring is as follows: Red: The colored schematic looked like it required a wire to branch off of the 12volt constant for fuel pump relay to ignition switch, so I tried this... Yellow: to yellow and white striped wire on zxt harness Black:(next to yellow wire) to ignitor/distributor condensor Black: 6 prong plug to ignition relay

I think where I am held up is the blue and red wire on the fuel pump relay. I have the other side of the 6 prong plug and (not at the car at the moment) goes to the ECCS pin 16, I am not getting power to ECCS I think.

Man, I just want the fuel pump to prime and the ECCS light to come on...

No, my fuel rail is not done. Need to located some NPT taps tomorrow.

I jumped the fuel pump relay earlier and got it to prime. Which colored wire do off of the fuel pump relay needs to make the loop to the 280z female ignition harness plug as seen on CyngnusX1 diagram? On Cygnus diagram he does not have the wire colors listed and his zxt female plug does not correspond with Plug 2 on the colored diagram for wire arrangement. Where he has the wire off of zxt female going to the fuel pump harness then to Pin 16 is listed as neutral safety switch on the colored diagram. The "how to" says to ground this wire, which is it?

Where is "280Z female plug" on the colored wiring diagram? Where is the ignition plug on the non colored diagram from cygnusx1?

Do you use the EFI relay on the S30 car on these swaps?

Using both diagrams in this thread I have noticed that on Dave's diagram (non colored) and the colored one I believe there is a error when comparing the two. Plug 2 is ZXT female plug on the other diagram. Look at the ground black wire on both diagrams. On Dave's the ground wire shares a row with 2 other wires and on the colored diagram on Plug 2 black ground does not share a row with any other wires. Am I missing something here?

Yay! oil pressure. Took off the pump and filled it with oil and vaseline and spun it with a flat tip screw driver. Bolted it back on and filled the filter. Cranked it for about 20 seconds and oil came out at the turbo banjo and then a few seconds later the cam holes. MORAL VICTORY.

If it isn't too much headache I think I will just pull the pump and fill it. Do I need to put #1 on TDC before dropping the pump? I thought I saw someone talking about pouring oil down the front cover too.

I did both of those. The section I used has the specs for both NA and turbo ignition systems. As I mentioned when testing on primary. The multi meter was erratic. I was going to test primary on my old NA coil and see if is the meter, because my ignition system was fine on my old engine.

I tested the coil on the secondary circuit and got the 9ohms. Not sure what the spec was on the ignitor so while I was there I tested that and got 1.8 ohms.

1983 harness and engine 1977 280z. I am just using the testing procedures laid out on EL-26 of the FSM

Even cleaning the contacts on the primary circuits I cannot get the ohm meter to hold any number. I tried different settings with the meter with no change. I'd have to believe it would be "0" if it was bad right?

With a new 9v battery and my multi meter set on 200k I have 9 ohms on the secondary circuit. Ignitor is 1.8 and I am having a hell of time getting anything on the primary circuit of the coil, it jumps everywhere and then goes to 0.

I'm in EL-32 for turbo ignition system in the FSM, but only see around EL-26 for non turbo it goes over coil testing. Does say how to test on turbo.

I am having this exact same issue. I didn't prime the oil pump. Do I need to put everything back to TDC on #1 then pull off the pump to prime it first or just drop the pump and prime it?

No spark either. Just pulled plug 6 and held it to the head and cranked it. Nothing. I don't have the fuel rail done yet thus the injectors are just sitting in the intake bosses. What is the MO for testing the coil and or ignitor?

I bought one of those cheap manual boost controllers on eBay. Watching a video on YouTube someone mentioned that you don't need to use the t fitting unless you have twin turbos. Is this true?

I'm going to take another run at this problem this weekend. I'd like a little guidance otherwise it is going to get hauled to a shop on a wrecker. If anyone can get me going down the right path, I'd really appreciate it. If you need more information from me to help you help me, I am all ears and effort.

Good thought. Can't remember if I had it on acc or on. I will try acc tonight and she what happens. Thank you.

Okay, obviously there was too much information for everyone to disseminate here. Why would the coil be hotter than hell with the ignition on?