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SHANE

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Everything posted by SHANE

  1. i paid $850.00 for JE 8.5:1 WITH total seal rings. i bought them from top end. very easy to deal with, JEGS was 20.00 more and i would have to fill out this complicated form for custom pistons. with top end i just told them my block head combo, bore, and what compression ratio i wanted. shane
  2. it's a long shot but TOP END uses some BMW AFM. they sell them for around 180.00 try contacting them.
  3. nope not worse. i understand it now, and actually it seems to make very good sense. just something that would not normally register upstairs(if you know what i mean)
  4. i think $300.00 for 5-15 HP is just plain stupid! IF and i do mean IF it worked i would pay $50.00 bucks tops. but i really doubt that it works at all. kinda like that "tornado" thing that increases HP and MPG.
  5. huh, aeroquip and earls show -8 as 7/16 and -10 at 9/16. what gives
  6. scottie, i know what you mean but, why not go -10 since the pump has it? my thinking was 1. you can never overkill a fuel system on a turbo car. 2. i will never have to upgrade the system later if i make changes to the motor. anyway that was my thought process.
  7. yes the skyline motor has been used in the Z32. i will try and find the video for ya.
  8. well i have the same pump but a paxton reg. -6 right off the rail will be fine. i ran -10 feed and -6 return. let me know what you think of the pump. my brother in-law and i bought them at the same time. we would like nothing more than to smash the things over someones head there is NO excuse for the amount of noise the piece of **** makes!!! even when running straight pipe i can hear the damn thing.
  9. SHANE

    sds question

    sds is for an L28ET, the injector connectors are not labeled. i would think they would need to connected in the proper order. maybe it does'nt matter, i dont know. anyone know if i need to worry about the order? i thought i would ask here before calling them. thanks
  10. just leave the blow off valve alone. venting to atmosphere wont hurt anything. i still have the mass air meter and the same bov as you, i just turned the idle up to about 1000rpms and it does just fine. you would have a hell of time recirculating that one anyway!!
  11. if you are interested i have the complete JWT set-up for sale. computer, MAF, photo disc, and 420cc injectors. with this set-up and a big fuel pump i was able to run 25psi on pump gas on the stock motor. also ean the time in my sig.
  12. why in the hell would you want to pay for a standalone, and still have the stupid distributor. the best thing about a standalone is getting rid of the dist. i do like the blue case though
  13. (set up so that charge air runs laterally down or up the core rather than all the way across, very very little pressure loss, very high efficiency). everything i have read and even spearco told me the exact oposite. charge air running up and down does not cool as well as side to side. almost every front mount you see runs side to side. not enough surface when running top to bottom.
  14. make sure you go with NITROUS EXPRESS!!!!!!!!!!
  15. turn up the boost that will lean it out.
  16. uhh, 7.5:1 is too low. i push 25psi on the stock L28ET, no need to go lower. most people run at least 8.5:1 for turbo's. nissan only ran that low of compression for reliability reasons. times change and now most manufactures stay above 8:1 for turbo motors. i myself have gone to 8.5:1 on a new engine and yes at 25psi it will make more power than a motor with 7:1.
  17. thanks for the help guys. time to go file away.
  18. i have had this problem on two different motors and am hoping someone can shed some light on the situation. i will explain it as best i can. my problem is with the woodruff key for the crank dampner. a while ago on the first engine i had a hell of a time getting the dampner to tighten up. i removed it to see what was wrong and found that the woodruff key had rolled back out of the keyway and cracked the dampner in the process. the damn key fit so loose it would just fall out of the keyway. (i know they are supposed to fit tight) so with a puch, hammer and a bit of rage i got the key to fit semi tight. all seemed well and then after i removed that motor some time later i find that the damn new dampner had cracked again in the slot cut for the key. now here i am a year later and a different motor, i took the dampner off for the first time to test fit my euro dampner. sure as hell the stupid woodruff key falls out on its own! so i go to nissan and order a new woodruff key(5 of them). the new key fit a little tight so i test fitted the dampner and about half way it got really hard to turn the racthet. remembering what happened last time i stopped and removed the pulley. you guessed it the key had rolled back yet AGAIN. only this time i find that the key does not fit in the slot on the euro dampner. i checked and it fits fine in the old dampner just not the new one so now i have a euro dampner i can wipe my ass with and still have the woodruff key wanting to roll out of its home. i am going with the old dampner and am just waiting for nissan to get the rest of the keys in. anyone have any idea what i am doing wrong? do i really have TWO bad cranks? sorry for the long post, thanks in advance!!
  19. want an NPR cooler? i have two
  20. i have a set of turbo injectors. e-mail me if you want.
  21. i need a flexplate and the pilot adapter on the back of the crank for an L28. if anyone has these i would really like to purchase from you. thank you, shane
  22. looks good!!!! oh what i would give for a cross flow head!!!!!
  23. buy my JIM WOLF set up!!
  24. well the closest they have to my model(mine is 4 years old) is 2-225 700cfm. i still think it is too small 9x14x3.5" i guess i will shop around then for a better I/C. i was afraid of the NPR cause of the thickness. here are some flow tests on NPR I/C's from turboford. in case anyone is interested. DRHausee has an awesome program for calculating all of this. He is currently in rev 2 of the program. I have his first version and this is what I calculated: First of all, some constants: Compressor efficiency is 71%, compressor inlet pressure is 14.7psi absolute, compressor inlet temp is 80°F and intake manifold pressure is 20psi. This is for a 2.3 with VE of 75% at 5000rpm. Starion IC : (the bigger one) at 324cfm and 292°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.29psi. The outlet temp is 139°F, heat rejected is 52287 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 1217 square inches. Saab 9000 IC: at 332cfm and 295°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.81psi. The outlet temp is 123°F, heat rejected is 60350 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 1602 square inches. Volvo IC: at 331cfm and 293°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.55psi. The outlet temp is 126°F, heat rejected is 58809 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 1539 square inches. So it appears the Saab 9000 IC is slightly better than the Volvo. Now lets look at the Dual Volvo IC (like mine) : at 340cfm and 291°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.29psi. The outlet temp is 94°F, heat rejected is 73063 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 3077 square inches. I am not sure that these numbers are correct as Don's program looks at the numbers enters as being a single core IC. When the outside air hits the second core passing through, it is much warmer than the front row, so the numbers seem a little optimistic. Now lets look at the Isuzu NPR medium duty Truck IC http://www.turboford.org/npric/ : The smaller NPR IC: at 329cfm and 290°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.09psi. The outlet temp is 130°F, heat rejected is 55553 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 1404 square inches. The larger NPR IC: at 340cfm and 290°F on the inlet side of the IC, the pressure drop is 0.07psi. The outlet temp is 111°F, heat rejected is 64237 BTU/hr, and the calculated heat exchange area is 2018 square inches. Gentlemen! I think we have found a new intercooler! The big one (look at the attached link) is sweet! It will fit right in front of the ranger radiator, which makes it a great fit! Forget the starion, that thing is a turd. Now the downfall...the price, these things go for $250-300 on ebay.
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