~KnuckleDuster~

I tried one once on the driver side door using about the same location as stock and the same thing happened to me, it was totally useless. I didn't feeling like drilling more holes in the door so I just left it that way until I sold the Z. I think if you install it at the very top corner of the door that would be the only way to get it to work.

Test drove, feels good. The 50mm wheel studs with a 5mm spacer fill out the lug nuts nicely. Looks a little more aggressive with the rear tires filling into the flares.

3 coats of grabber orange A couple pics of how the pad clips go in, there was no information on this that I could find. Pictures make it so much easier! Almost done just need to bleed them Russell speed bleeders for the rear are part # 639560 Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads 105.03230

Been slowly working on the rear brakes. Hardest parts are done. Cleaned and painted the hub face & installed Nismo 50mm extended wheel studs. I'm going to put some 5mm wheel spacers on and see how she looks. I intended on doing the front studs w/ spacers when I had it all apart but I got impatient..future project yayyy.

Now that I've got my coolant lines all sorted out and air free the radiator overflow tube has been pissing out coolant when warming up, so figured it was time to get an overflow tank and keep my garage floor and driveway clean. I went with this one from a place called Chase Bays. I wanted something in aluminum, black, and not a pile of crap. Still need to route my hoses but I like the way it looks and it should function just fine.

It feels better everywhere, especially corner exits. Most would say upgraded sway bars are one of those best bang for the buck mods you can do. The fit is really tight back there, it just clears the halfshaft boots by a half inch or less. Maybe your best bet is a forward facing rear sway, although I still don't know if that will clear still. I'm sure there's something out there that will work for you..

Thanks, yeah that's installed per the directions. It comes with the new uprights with tabs that stick out all pre-drilled. It made a huge difference in handling.

Dang! Nice numbers. Would love to feel that much power in a Z without a turbo hah

I've come to find out the new digital timing guns don't work on that wire too. You need an old style one. I bought a standard cheapo light for $30 and it works just fine.

I doubt it, it's brand new. Maybe I had the wrong signal wire from the get go when I had the resistor wired in, I'll have to double check the pinouts. It just bugs me that I can get this MSD unit to work that's designed to send the proper signal to a tach. It even has directions for a distributerless engine with coil packs.

Rear sway bar installed. Test drove, feels great!

Ok. I've been dealing with no tach's in RB's since 2008 and it's getting old. I originally bought an MSD tach adapter to try unit I read about it poping the resistor in the ecu. I tried wiring in the 10k resistor between the signal wire and 12v power (i think that's what it was) and nothing there. I found one thread where a guy successfully used this MSD GMR pickup and it's the closest I've been to getting a working tach. It clamps to the coil packs power supply and sends the signal to the tach. I've got it clamped to the same big white wire you would use for your timing gun. The tach is moving but it get stuck and fails to drop and will freeze in place. Directions state for distributerless coild packs set the tach to 1 pulse 4 cyl. mode. I've tried both 1 and 2 pulse 4cyl. modes on the dip switches and nothing. Can anyone help me along? I feel like I'm so close!