~KnuckleDuster~

Their is some wear there.. I wish it was a different color, nothing else is green hah oh well you never see it.

I'm starting to think more and more my frame might be tweaked. My frame rails are pretty beat up and there's even a raised hump on the passenger floor board. Could be from horrible jacking or who knows what. I'll get some pictures up tomorrow of the underside.

The strut assemblies were changed out with completely different assemblies. Purchased as a complete package. I've got the car looking level but I can feel an unevenness in what seems like the spring rate due to the varying compression. Left turns feel softer due to that front right being loosey goosey. Here's some pictures of what things look like now. Front Right: Right Front: Right Rear: Left Rear:

Hoping that's not the issue!

I never disconnected the sway bar but I jacked up the car from the rear diff and front x member and got caught up going front to back numerous times trying to figure out what was going on.

I think you may be confusing my set-up with the related link I posted. I have Tokico Illumina's and springs are Ground Control 175/200. They were made by cockerstar here on the forum. The rear isolators were changed out for taller ones from a 280z, they were in good shape and the problem existed prior to swaping them. The fronts I'm not to sure but pretty sure they're fine. I'm pretty sure I've done this but I will check again. Made by cockerstar. Haven't seen him around lately so doubt he will chime in worst cast I could PM him.. I'll look for strange wear. The car handles well and I drive it pretty hard. I've had an alignment before and after I changed the rear control arm bushings (which the alignment guy had no clue how to adjust) Here's some other pictures for reference. This passenger right side always sits high and has the collar as low as it can go without loosing tension on the spring. This is why I think the problem existed before the coilovers even went in. These are both fronts, notice the blue spring has a few less coils. The car sat level when I bought it .

Cool I appreciate the input. Getting anyone to respond around here is an achievement all its own.

Yeah those bushings were free to me, I just put them in because my old ones were rotting away. I've been eyeing those ttt control arms...I see them in my future. I just wanted to figure out the root of the problem before throwing even more money at it and just having the same issue.

Yeah it's settled by now, I've been dealing with this issue for a while but just now getting around to posting about it. The rear control arms have these rear camber adjustable bushings installed but the problem existed prior to this. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4171 The front control arms I have never touched. I do have a different set of front control arms with poly bushings I haven't installed yet...maybe now is the time. Rust shouldn't be an issue.

So when I first bought my 240z it had cut springs on it and they were all different lengths. I didn't think anything of it at the time because I planned on going with adjustable coilovers which now I have the ground control sleeves & springs. To get the car to sit normal looking the adjustments on the coilovers are extreme on the passenger side of the car. The right rear has to be set almost to the top of the collar and the front passenger has to be set as low as it can go without causing the spring to flop around loosely. I don't think my frame is tweaked that bad I can't see any signs of accidents. I'm no suspension expert on these cars so I'm thinking something may be binding? Control arm? I don't know, any input or suggestions will help. This is the only related thread I found when searching: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52895-problems-leveling-my-240z/

Sounds wicked!

Looks great can't wait to hear the exhaust. I really like the all black rbr's..

Hmm interesting. I'll have to give it another try. Thanks I ordered it from whitehead performance. I paid a premium for it but they have been in business since the 80's and go through the diffs and make sure everything is within factory specs "Side bearings have been checked for wear and proper clearance, ring and pinion teeth checked for excessive wear and damage, backlash has been measured and is within factory specs, clutch unit has been tested for break-away torque and general operation. They recommend paying extra for them to do the seals. I didn't choose this option but once I received the seals looked brand new, maybe someone changed their mind and returned it so I got lucky on that. Anyone in the future planning on a n/a rb25 swap you can get away with a 4.6 rear end. The n/a R34's run 4.364's so a 4.6 should provide some great acceleration without being too short. I don't think there's a factory 4.6 that's LSD however..

Got the diff in. This was quite a pain in the ass by myself and no lift. Hardest part was getting the driveshaft bolts in and out & tight, the flange of the aluminum driveshaft is twice as think as stock making movement even tighter. Right out of the driveway the LSD was very noticeable, the rear wheels feel like they're griping the road even at very low speeds. Powering through corners is amazing, you can just mash on the gas through a corner twice as fast as I could before. This differential is totally quiet too, the last diff had a nice whine but this one doesn't make a peep. As for the new final drive ratio from 3.9 to 4.4 that helped big time. Acceleration is quicker and I don't have to wind her out into high rpm's to get in the power band I was after. I actually got into 5th gear on a non highway road! I installed the rear sway bar brackets from ST but with the car lifted the bar didn't seem like it was going to clear the half shafts and the angle of the holes were too aggressive. The instructions are somewhat vague, does the suspension need to be compressed to get everything lined up right? Or is this because I didn't do enough research and the R200 swap puts the halfshafts lower so I needed to order the 280z kit..