~KnuckleDuster~

Got the louvered vents and lids back from the powder coater. I sold the lids which had 4 louvers in favor of these with 6 louvers. They seem to match up better with whats going on with the hood vents. Overall very pleased.

It's been on the shelf for 6 months but got around to the ATI crank pulley today. Removal / install went smooth. According to the internet (which is never wrong) removing 1 pound off the crank equals to freeing up 2.7hp. The stock pulley came in right around 11 pounds where the ATI was around 4.5. So my butt dyno should tell me I gained 17 hp back. We shall see. Just need to order the proper belt now.

Sounds wicked

So I've been battling with a lean condition that would only go away after the car was good and hot after 45min plus of driving. Turned out to be the coolant temp sensor. It tells the ecu the temperature in order to determine how much fuel to give it. Since the motor sat for a while the temp sensor had collected quite a bit of corrosion on it. I ordered a new sensor part # 22630-44B20 and fixed the problem. As of right now the car is running perfectly. Thanks to winstonusmc for the suggestion. Also cleaned up the grounds that were on the coolant neck as well.

Nice lids! Project is coming along nicely.

Decided to change out the stock 280z hood vents for a different look, something with a more hot rod/custom look to it. Got these louvered hood vents from www.skillard.com and couldn't be happier. Love the look of them. I ordered them in raw aluminum because Ill be powder coating them in a gloss black to match. I intended to install my louvered inspection lids to go with these but the vents on the inspection lids are taller and not quite as long so I'll probably hold off on that until I can find a pair that will match the hood vents. As far as cooling goes I'm not sure what will suck air out better at speed, the stock vents or the louvers. I'm sure the stock vents work much better when sitting still but the motor runs pretty cool anyhow. A side benefit will be when washing the car not getting water all over in the engine bay. Not bolted down yet, just placed in for test fitting. I would like to leave the underside raw aluminum, I think that would be kinda cool and break up all the darkness. We shall see.

Decided to ditch the windshield wiper motor in favor of weight loss. I'm going to finish painting everything inside with por 15. The wiper motor and arms came in right around 7 lbs. I would like to remove the heater core next, it's likely to be quite a bit heavier, and having a heater is useless to me. Maybe a better spot to mount the ecu too? Also have a couple other things in the works..

Does anyone know what rear sway this is? I was in the hatch of a Z I bought and would like to clean it up and put it to use but curious where it mounts to. I tried looking around but didn't see anything similar. The bar is 19mm.

The horn button is missing the plastic coupling.

While cleaning up some wiring I decided to replace my beat up battery ground wire and improve grounding at a few other areas. It's been about 13 years since I installed a "grounding kit" and at the time I did notice it to improve throttle response. I figured this old car with a different motor could benefit from some improved grounding. Here's the old negative cable. New cable. I found this universal kit that's made in Japan by Pivot. Some of their claims: I only ended up using 3 of the 5 ground wires. Alternator, head, and body were the spots I decided to hit. I also replaced the yellow sleeves with some black shrink wrap. I can't really say if I feel a difference in anything yet because I don't drive the car enough and now my ecu needs to re-learn everything but for about $40 total why not.