~KnuckleDuster~

My vin is 600 or so cars after yours and my production date was 12/72 sold as a 73.

Ok so by switching them around, long end on driver side and short on passenger side they pop in place perfectly. I've searched around and never came across anyone saying the stub's had to be flip flopped when changing to a clsd unit, or am I the first person to go from a 280zx R200 with 280z stub axles to a R31 skyline clsd R200 with 280z stub axles.. Look new to me Old diff..definitely used

I personally didn't but they look like they could be new. Yeah they look just like the pic. They are installed as they should with the shorter one on the driver side. The only thing that's different now is this is a clsd diff and the previous was open.

Ok I'm about to put the new R200 in but noticed the passenger side stub axle sticks out more than the driver side. They poped firmly into the c clips but I can't recall if this was the way it was before. Need some piece of mind before I put everything back. Passenger Driver Side

Got crackin on the new rear diff. This will likely be the biggest bang for the buck mod I'll do so really excited to feel the change. Swapping out the driveshaft flanges, stub axles, fluid changes. I'm going to get some new nuts, lock washers, driveshaft bolts, and insulated diff mount to freshen everything up.

Yeah that's way to far. Where are you planning on living once your out of the corps?

How far are you from the tail of the dragon?

Now that the cars been up and running properly I've been hitting the twisty roads more and more and I'm getting a feel for the areas that need to be addressed. A thin front sway bar w/ no rear sway bar is probably the biggest thing I notice so were going to fix that up with the Suspension Techniques kit. I've read good reviews on these so I'm sure I'll be impressed. Before this I need to get that diff installed though! The gunmetal grey powder coat is a perfect match to the wheels..

Thanks! Ground clearance has never been an issue for me since going with 17's. With the gold 15's that were on the car when I bought it there was scrape marks all over the down pipe and it was only a couple inches from the ground. Even with my suspension set to ultra low I've never scraped anything or had to worry with the 17's.

Lol, engine management owns me though. I prefer plug & play and bolt on hah. It would be interesting to see dyno comparisons between our motors. I'll do my best to get a video up, I've got a one month old baby girl here now so time is money. Here's some pictures of the louvered action.

Ok so back to back butt dyno testing! The ATI Damper VS. Pop Charger. The ATI Damper was noticeable in the mid to high rpm range. The car did feel slightly faster. Not like a hp gain but more like taking a couple pounds off a flywheel for instance, the car accelerated as if it dropped some weight. If your turbo I highly doubt you will notice anything from this. Next I installed the Jim Wolf Technologies pop charger. I didn't notice any increased intake noise which I'm pretty sure is due to the fact I'm running such a free flowing exhaust. If it was a little more restricted I'm sure I'd be getting that roar that's so common. That was a let down, I was hoping for some fake ITB sounds coming from the engine bay lol. The exhaust note on the other hand became more refined, deeper, richer even. As for power? It was noticeable from down low all the way to the top. This thing made a very big difference. It feels great, pulls a lot harder and sounds better than ever. In the end I was glad the crank pulley was changed out, the rubber was cracking on the backside which would eventually lead to a failure. If your looking for a seat of the pants difference, go with a quality intake over a damper 4x the price!

This ones for you Serban. Got a JWT pop charger! These were the go to intake upgrade for sr20's back in the day. The make a great intake growl noise and have been dyno proven to make around 6hp. The don't make them for RB motors but the Z32 300zx has the same maf housing.