piston

here's mine. so far about 700.00 worth of paint and materials. painted in my garage myself. saved 4,000-6,000 dollars. 2 stage metalic! by the way, the body line is straight, just the angle of the pic makes it look wavy.

well, i guess my whole interior panels is going to be carbon fiber style. hehehe! whats nice about the carbon style vinyl you have is that it actually looks like real carbon fiber!!!

in the dyno vid, it seems like its so quite and not yelling out max rpm. how much psi is it running and did you get it to be so quite especially with side pipes? nice build and looks like a smooth ride.

I'm talking about the inner tie rod ends, not outer. the ones I'm looking at for the s30 chassis looks like the pic above. that's what i come up with also.

i went to pick in pull earlier this afternoon and saw a clean s30 with everything intact from a newer 77 280z. i thought about this thread and almost smashed the wiper linkages. j/k. i should have taken it because the thing looks like its in mint condition with original yellow grease and gold linkages. too bad mine still works.

i don't know if someone already asked but where did you get the vinyl with the carbon fiber looks from? I'm interested.

dangerous idea. already been asked on the forums here before. i had a set done at one time going from 4x110 to 4x114.3 but that's barely rubbing it out but from 4x100 to 4x114.3? that's a jump. is kinda pricey anywhere from 200 up. most shops wont do it anymore for safety reasons.

i might sound stupid but what is a K r180? isn't just just a standard r180 or is there a difference?

junk yard!!!

lol, i just blasted mines also and it just came off but it was cold outside. lol. it rubs off in strips but its because of the moister.

google 240z tie rod pics and 240sx tie rod pics. it looks different. according to my computer datsun z's and up to 83 zx's is the same for passenger side. i didnt come up with a listing for the driver side so i dont know about that side but when i put in the rock auto part# it shows its the same for either side. 240sx has double males threads with 16x1.00 threads for rack side for 89-94. 240z has males theads also but on the passenger side it way bigger threads on rack side.

ac delco makes tie rods for imports? never knew that. that part does not work for a datsun z. i just crossed it over here at work and its for 89-94 240sx's. not 240z. the part looks completely different from the datsun z.

just make sure you primer all metals right? i just sprayed my door window trim and the thing just flaked off. lol, i was like what? it was cold though and i was being lazy. i was just checking to see how the color would look. it actually looks nice with not too much gloss but at the same time a semi finish.

its cool...were all cool here, i was just saying. heated booth doesnt effect dry times? never knew that. reducing too much will only cause you to move faster. whats outside temperature have anything to do with it when the booth has a set temp with car inside booth with closed doors? might be kinda stupid but im still learning also! i also did a valve cover job the other day, took me 20mins and got paid for 2 hrs. sounds pretty good if you ask me. j/k.

i say just stay away from dexcool and you dont have to worry! you can never really go wrong with green in aluminum engines.

dexcool sucks. ive seen dexcool chewing gaskets and working on iron blocks like termites. always swap to green in any gm i wrenched. i use dexcool in my old lt1 swap and didnt like it either, not that it damaged anything but the thought of eating gaskets and looking at the way the gm gaskets are set up and made of, i didnt wanna risk anything. you cant go wrong with green. in fact, thers this new stuff out for imports and german vehicles in red and blue made just for aluminum blocks and is a life time antifreeze. toyota uses it, nissan and honda uses it and mercedes...name is pentosin.

the l28et is a direct bolt in swap. its just like taking your old motor out and putting in the new one without no real major mods. everything mounts right up and swap the drive line. then wiring but ey, its a project. if you can take off the turbo manifold then you can do an engine swap as long as you have the tools and equipment. like stravi757 mentioned! thers so much info on here to help guide you. this is on of the easiest swap for the s30.

oops, typo, mistype been reading too much. i mean 10 hrs. lol don't get me wrong but the above shows 10 hrs clearcoat @ $$$per hour. i read it as 10 hours to lay down clear is what it looks like. masking should only be from the first masking when preparing for base. it shouldnt be included in the clearing process. ther is no remasking or anything after base, as far as i know, tac rag it then clear leaving old masking material. am i reading this wrong or is this on clear coating only with no base spraying? then that would make sense. because i seriously dont recall any masking and preping for clear besides like what i mentioned above.

zx-t will always be faster. s30 + l28et is even better. i say get the 240z and swap the motor. its cake to install and no smog so upgrades is all out with no restrictions. however the feel of a 3.1 stroker is also sick and torque monster. but to build the 3.1, its cheaper to go l28et and bigger turbo and still be fast.

well, if you got 5-7k to spend. you dont have to worry my friend. also on the 20hrs clear coat process. i mentioned it takes 10-15mins to lay down one side panel off one coat or depends on clear products. not whole car. it still doesnt take a whole day to clear your car trust me on this. pros lay it down in 1-2 hours total with 15 min flash time between and heated booth for faster dry. time is prep! whats ther to prep after base coat? tac rag wipe and spray, clean gun, wipe and spray. materials, acetone and towels. whats else is there? actual labor to SPRAY is 10-15min max per panel on one coat. x's that by 3 and 30 minsx3 between each clean up and =20hours?

10 hours to clear coat? took me only 5-10 mins to lay down clear on one panel!

i can say its going to cost alot of money unless your rich and don't mind spending the bigger bucks. it takes time to get it straight and smooth. its not just the paint that sucks up your wallet, its labor and hours of labor i should add to do the body work even a small ding on a hard to shape panel. that's where most of the money kicks in. if you do the body work yourself and have a shop paint it, it can cost anywhere from $1000-$3000 depending on paint quality and stages and door jams etc... all painted. besides that a single stage decent roll around paint job outside body only runs in the 600.00 range with decent tape masking and 200.00 if they paint your tires, grills and muffler along with it! lol but true.

i think you should spray the grill black or something. it shows too much and looks kinda mickey moused on there. i say show the intercooler and toss the grill however if you dont care about looks, its a very good way of keeping stuff from hitting the intercooler.

don't know if it makes any differences but in 77-78, the z door interior did change and had different window regulator, door lock design. not sure about the handles though. its a more improve design over the pre 76 z's.

are you kidding me? in cali, i see one of these everytime i go to pick n pull no matter what city. lol.