piston

i should also add, if anything is going to brake, the rubber motor mount would start to show signs or tear apart before it just decides to bust your metal fab mount supports.

feed me too.

talk about r200. i just finished flipping my z31t axle cages. what a mess. new boots n all installed! im going to stick with the weak 3.54 longnose r200+ z31t axles. hope it handles when the time comes. no lsd. im broke!!! not to change the subject but when i spin my diff flange for the drive shaft, it has a slight barely noticeable click before it spins the axles. however it is empty and has no oil. is this normal?

im sure these guys are ahead of the game and has something under to support the power and hooking it on the roads. that would suck to build all this and not run any kind of lsd diff or anything of some sort to support the power. a lot of guys here run high hp and capable of hooking. very possible, just pricey, but if you have 600hp and can cough up for a t51R, what is pricey? lol.

all i can say is, damn that's a lot of work...

i work at napa, besides the dust boot itself, im almost positive in the book will show more than one style seal with the exact ID/OD if measured by the spec of the original seal. some may have dust boots as pictured above. some have stop flanges so it can only press in to far. some has rubber style dust boots and some has none. only we cant predict where the seals are made from as some are made in china, japan, mexico, USA but comes in the same boxes. if im correct, you guys are trying to figure out how to install this? i havent worked on a t5 at all but the last time i installed one of these on a different trans, i used a piece of exhuast pipe to slide inside the seal to the deepest/hard point and tap it in with a rubber hammer.

i don't know but it looks like a pretty tight squeeze for the s366! it looks ruined IMO. i dont know what you have in mind but it looks pretty creative. i cant wait to see the inside and what you have for plans.

learn something new on hybridz everyday.

i would love to sport those bad boys. looks pretty slick.

jusjofok, funny a 2+2 is rare. couple weeks ago i went to a local pick n pull and pulled the door panels off a z and got all happy because it was still in fair usable condition and not even pay attention. started looking around and rearlize it was a 2+2 like 5 mins later. lol.

bigbore468 is correct. wonder if you change over the complete door and the chassis door catch, will it work? looks real close but cant really say.

damn. bling bling! looks awsome! im getting lazy and thinking about not even using anything for sound prevention. but then again, thinking about using that thermal stuff with alloy sheet on one side and wool on other side.

looks like a 3 cylinder now. im assuming your going to fab up a new manifold like the s2k pic you posted? what about motor mounts?

dont forget it will interfear with your gas pedal and that will also need to be modified and maybe run the throttle cable under the manifold?

some would have flamed for that in the 2jz section!!! lol. 3mm is equal to 1/8th inch? not sure as i don't have a caliper to get an idea. your idea/theory makes since. obviously the two top and bottom tube is in place and no way it would bend outward or inward also.

dude, your engine bay looks better than mine. any paint on a engine bay will give you more thumbs up than a black one. black does look good with any color though.

i saw a good doner 76 280z here for 500.00 complete. too bad i dont have any more garage space. its worth the build since i seen so many other 240's in sad sad shape getting a new makeover...this is nothing yet. i bought my early 74 260z for 500.00 no paper and has straight frames with with no floor rust, no usual bottom hatch area rust, besides under the battery tray has minimal rust. that's it, and it ran too! every time i go outside and look at my floors and usual rust area, i smile my ass off!!! got the right b**ch!!!

so is the spoiler originally made for the g-nose z family? i never really seen one mounted on a specific style z build but it doesn't matter. whatever looks good!!!

i think its a little overkill to move the engine back that much IMO. and just more fab work and delay time. i know someone who has the whole firewall(240z) removed and made a new one set back 5-6 inches redrilled holes to use different booster and master cylinders. the car is however all tubed out. i know it makes it more of a center engine vehicle but does it actually make that much of a difference???

250hp is nothing on a stock l28et. 150.00 ebay intercooler, ghetto autozone intake pipings, manual boost controller and you are there.

wow, that cross member looks like its setup for 5 different motor swaps!!! everything looks good but the motor mount rest plates itself looks kinda weak. instead of leaving it open with just the 45 degree plate, you should consider boxing it up in the front and back for insurance.

my unprofessional opinion on air filter sticking out of hood.----> GAY!

the rb25's are nice and powerful motors. proven over and over like the 2jz. lol on switching motors and reason why i'm not documenting my build here since i don't know what kind of deals i will be coming across. however i have already welded in my 2jz cross member so no turning back on that. rb25-26 was next on my mind also and they do come across a lot!!! that is a clean rear sub frame connector. wish i had the tools for that but i doubt i will need it. i might just get under there and start hacking it up too when i have nothing else to mod.

dammit, i forgot to tap my shock tower plate for a bolt to hold my harness!!! but i already welded the thing in yesterday with a custom rear strut bar setup.

i thought you were going to use this on the engine bay??? i would have sprayed that sucker if i were you. i notice you shaved off the factory mounts on the cross member, what motor you putting in? sorry, this post is toooo long for me to go through. also planet color is owned by Sherwin Williams. nice quality paint!!! that color is soooo sick....