piston

anyone can paint like this. it just takes time and learning how to spray and adjust your paint equipment. im a do it yourself guy so its all still a learning experience for me also like i already have mentioned before. i gotta be honest though, it does look better than some paint jobs i seen around here that shops do. autobody is such a PITA and underpay and customers rush to get their cars out while they dont understand it takes time to do a clean job. i rush myself at times also but i tell myself the thing aint going nowhere anyways because it doesnt have an engine. lol.

the year of the paint will also help find the exact color.

i think its a little overkill for distilled water. i know distilled water is the cleanest water for anything but i dont think the z is gonna stay with me for another 10 years so im using what i can find for now. alot of shops around here suggest the same thing and to use distilled water, i have not yet to see a paint job that has been effected by tap water from wetsanding. im sure the water around here is dirty compare to city water because i live outside the city and thers only farm fields around me. thanks for the heads up though..

the only thing i hate about this is having to install a turn off switch on the outside of the vehicl to run at he track. at least thats what the track officials told me last couple years ago.

thats really smooth.....what happens if your car batery takes crap? i always think about that and wonder is there a way around that.

today i resprayed the driver side fender. 3 mist base and 2 heavy clear. here are the pics with just the base before clear. here i layed down 2 decent/heavy clear coat. no overkill clearing is needed as it will run and be a PITA to sand. heres a really close shot of the paintjob. minimal orange peel but a couple wetsand paper should handle the business. i hate to waste paint like always especially when im done with the job and have extra still in the guns cup. so i decited to do some quick spray where prepping doesnt matter and layed it down without primer. lol. picked up the only pieces left sitting around and layed some under. its even got clearcoat on it. hahaha can ya see the traped dust???

thats what i thought because my metalic has all kinds of different flake in it compare to mica colors where it looks more steady.

when i was shopping for colors, i notice some say mica and some say met. im sure thers a difference between the two and was told that was the difference but not too sure also. if the flakes are black, it wouldnt show as much until it hits the sunlight. it wouldn matter if you put a full amount or a little, one would assume the glitter effect will only show less sparkle. it will still cover evenly either way.

mica is different from metalic isnt it? isnt mica is a color with micro glitters without the metallic effect. i say ditch the glitter and just use the blue mica itself. do you already have your paint? if thers alot of glitter in the mix already, dont spoil it and have too much glitter effect. look at my DIY thread an see how my fender looks in the sunlight. thats just the base itself under clear.

Ok diablo, you ask for it, you got it...This is by far my finest piece of spray job. heres a pic outside. i was able to get home early and took some quick shots. here you can see the orange peel thowing the glitter flakes all over from the sunlight. havent wetsand an buff the bottom section yet. couple more shots. notice the blurry reflection up top of pic on the piece i havent sand and buffed.

i know the two big dogs replied but you would you guys say its safe to punch these on a 400hp plus motor?

try zcarparts.com. i thought i saw a similar setup like those ones.

by the time i get home and take it out to the sun, the sun is setting and it looks all titanium or bronze or maybe later today after work ill c if i can take one outside if i can catch the sun.

tap water right out of the kitchen sink. i never heard of that before but i think distilled water is way over kill for wetsanding. yes the pads are 6 inch pads. my dewalt buffer has various speed settings and according to the pro detailers next door here at work, they say to keep it at 1400 rpms. works really good. the funny thing is im using the same foam pad on all 3 rounds instead of going to a finer pad for polish. it looks good enough for me so ima keep it like that for now. meph, if you have the time and money and dont mind redoing it, i say do it. but yours looks pretty clean the way it is already.

today i colorsanded the top section of the fender since doing the whole thing takes too long, i am doing it section by section...these are my tools...im using the same sandpaper disc from last time i used to do the cowl. its by 3m made with some kind of wierd thin plastic looking backpad with micro 1500(white plastic) and 3000(left pad)crystals. it hooks (aka hook it) onto a round backing pad with a strap for two finger slot for hand use. these pads last for some time. 2500 grit for the gray paper sheet. also a squegy, if thats even how you spell it. lol. a spray water bottle and my barrowed dewalt electric buffer/polisher. all this was performed under an hour. this is what is looks like after 3000 grit. it only takes this much to cut/buff/polish each round of buffing/polishing... this is the result. nice and shiney and nice clean reflections with no orange peel. notice the bottom section hasnt been sanded or buffed. 3000 grit finish before buff/polish. final product...almost mirror like from low angles. heres a front distance shot of the fender/front view. looks brand new...hehehe

haha, lol, i would be hating if i keep the color codes to myself. but if i share it then i might be the second with the 09 gtr skyline grey metalic. j/k but anyways, the color code is KAD. I have access to any color code you need, just let me know. vehicle make, color name and i can pull a code. just in case anyone might wanna look cool but slightly different. honda has this color called polish metal very similr tothis color but more silver. code if NH737M.

are you sure they r-154 is about that priced? i have one right now waiting for my 2jz swap and i would sell it if you make me a good enough offer? j/k. i dont think anyone makes one for the zxtt tranny. dont recall seeing that kind of adapter besides the gm auto trans.

sounds like a good idea but if so, i dont recall seeing any aftermarket crossdrilled drums?

when you say zinc, im wondering if your talking about selfetching primer? etching primer is whats recomended on bare metal surfaces althought alot of people say you can get away with epoxy primer like what i used in some areas. i do have etching primer on the bare metal surfaces...but not all. i think cockerstar is doing a budget spray from looking at his equiptment and paint. but if he really wants a good clean job, prepping is really important and sandpaper grit as it will show like crazy.

it doesnt really matter on the compressor your using as long as your compressor can produce 80 psi plus and recharge consistantly, im sure it will work because your only using 27-29psi on HVLP guns and 34-35 on a standard conventional spray gun. my brothers painting his 73 510 on an old school compressor with a belt driven motor and it still delivers an outstanding performance and it doesnt shut off like my 30gal since it sucks and maxes out the circuit breaker everytime. i have to wait and let it recharge then psray or go outside and reset the circuit breaker if i use it costantly while its recharghing. it will trigger th circuit breaker. i already know about changing the circuit breaker to a higher one but dont wanna kill myself since i know nothing about replacing one. overall, just make sure you set your guns to factory recomendations and air psi accoding to spec, meaning cap psi and inlet psi etc...you dont need a top notch compressor for a perfect paint job.

i dont see why it wouldnt work. seen them before and someone here uses them but forgot who posted them. i wonder how safe it would be to use these on the track?

I wish someone would paint it this color cause my vision is cleannnn....maybe if i get bored of my color, ill repaint it that color.

That looks nice. clean reflection and beautiful gloss.

thats way too corse on the sand paper. hit it with 180 and go finer and finer as you go before paint. finish it off with 600 or so. you might get away with 400 but all the work your putting into it, just finish it with fine paper and your results should be smooth. you might wanna touch up the spots with a couple layers of lightweight bondo also and feather that out to get rid of the waves in your high and low spots. spray layers at a time instead of covering it in full on the first pass. just do what i do, lay down plastic on the garage floor and and wet it, what doesnt stick on the plastic will float off, what stick will stick on the plastic instead of the floor.

Im running a 30gal craftsman compressor.