piston

myth busters golf ball dimples it looks like!!! never new saturns had such cheap fenders. that would be the last place i want to live especially having a nice paint job on a z.

almost cool, but i still like the classic BRE spoiler. the corners are too sharp. well, it depends on what style z your building because this match the scarab z's.

after looking at your pics, i don't see how he just peeled off the frame rails so clean without drilling out the spot welds. the rails is spot welded on all the way back. if you look at it, the floors begins from the fram rails going down at a 45 degree angle then going backwards and you can definitely see the floor was hacked and instead of having the 45 degree angle, they just go straight up and leaving the gap between the rails as pictured. that also explains why it has that extra piece hanging in the transmission tunnel and why it doesn't have any floor drain holes. trust me, i just went outside to the garage and looked under my z. im not trying to throw you bad news, just letting you know you might be able to salvage those floor pans. if its not rusted, cut the front of it and bend it down towards the rails, and attach a new piece of sheet metal to the front of the foot rest to make up for the missing piece as you will be hammering or bending it downwards and will create a small gap curving up the rails. weld in an additional sheetmetal on there to make up for the gap and should be the 45 degree foot rest piece. search the forum and you will get an idea of what im trying to explain.

its just slight off and bent. barely even noticeable. i wouldnt even worry about it if it was me.

i would not recommend metallic paint for the first timer. try a mica color or a solid but somewhat metallic stance color. or plain old solid. do not even attempt to spray metalic with a harborfreight spray gun as you will just waste your paint. i also would not recommend a cheap spray gun, at least a decent hvlp or something you can adjust. a cheap gun will only lay out uneven pattern and uneaven mist depending on tip. i would also say for a budget, spray a single stage paint job and and wetsand/buff it out from there. you dont have to worry about runs on single stage too much since its a single stage and not have to worry about sanding down to base coat when wetsanding or taking care of slight runs. it also cuts materials in half and spray time in half using single stage. i just bought a role of 3m plastic clear mask and used it on the floor and walls and wet everything before spray. i have a post here about my DIY spray. get some ideas from it and it doesnt get cheap either, so make sure you do it right the first time or your paint and budget will double up. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151616&highlight=DIY+paint+job good luck!!!

im sure he got it from japan!!! j/k, thats pretty sweet, i knew i saw a skyline in the back round in one of your pics.

i feel bad seeing this. couple grand? wow..always look under on any car you purchase especially anything over 30 years old but i understand your situation! how i use to be! lol. anyways, is it just me or did it look like some might have put in floor boards without welding in new frame rails? there is no evidence of spot welds or anything under floor pans from the rails.and it also looks like the floor pans are raised up a couple inches or 3 in the front. and seat bolts should not show through on the bottom like that. or maybe you already knew that and made long story short???

just my thought... q45 r200 diff from pick n pull 65.00 redrill r200 mustache bar for q45 r200 diff make a front mount for r230 or r200 q45, assuming you can weld or know someone. get 4 junk yard axles from q45. 25 a piece? send in your 4bolt axle flange and have modernmotorsports weld it up for 310.00 to accept q45 6 bolts. order moser axles while your at it for an additional 340.00 say 40-50 in fright total. all pretty much for under 850.00 possible!!! and you dont ever have to worry about it. assuming you can deal with 3.54 gears. i was thinking about using my r200 longnose and turbo z31 cv's. r/t mount and add lsd later. but then again, how much hp and torque can it really hold on a 500-550 hp with manual trans blowing on full slicks? and easy up in power by up the boost. adding a lsd to the weaker longnose is out of the picture and cant be beat when converting over to the q45 r200 swap(IMO) for almost the same amount of money for a good quality lsd for the longose r200. lsd's are not cheap! just giving you heads up on your question wanting a stronger diff for that kind of torque. thoughts are welcome because i myself is interested in your guys opinions. however i would prefer using the longnose r200 since its cake walk to install if it can hold that kind of hp and torque reliably.

ok, heres my new mount alreadyin te car and some on the engine with stand. this one should be be pretty strong and tough. welds penetrated through and made thicker welds using zig zag pattern. 1/8 inch plates and mount support tubing is 2.50 round and thickness like the one beta uses. i think it was 0.0600. the 1 3/4 tubing is mandrel bent by jay at jayshotrod here in sacramento. hybrid z member is i think GT240.

it should just be one weatherstrip piece right? i dont recall seeing any additional piece in my old dc2. thats would be a nice easy fix since the older integras are everywhere.

cant you just swap the pedals onto the existing auto box thingy? my 74 260z came auto originally from the factory and the manual clutch and brake pedals slides right in and has spring holes already intact and was a direct bolt up with no mods.

i was about to say foo! j/k. man, i gotta give PA240z alot of props for the work he is putting in to the z. took off all the undercoat and made new frame rails for the z. thats progress! nice work, looking forward for updates!!!

i actually made another with .120 steel 1 3/4 tubing and larger plates covering frame rails over and under all the way to the edges. looks like the betamotorsports one with beefier tube, larger plates and thicker metal. i already welded in the car. will take pics when i get new batteries for the camera. i looks at my old one and i gotta admit, it looks crappy ass hell. lol

you are talking about the grease cover on the back side of the 6 bolt? just go to a local pick n pull and unbolt the axle and pop that out. it requires disassemble doesn't it?

i was clearing out the 2jzge part buddy! most would assum 2jz=turbo. or do i have to say 2jzGE??? plus, not possible to build a n/a 2jzGE and make more power than the 1jzGTE. lol.

those are pretty big size turbos for running two.

i thought you were going to make your own manifold? it looks almost as if the stacks were on there to begin with. so nice and clean. thinking if i go n/a, i will be making one like the FSR one using rossmachinines D shape plenum and q45 tb plate and just drill the plenum piece and bolt it to my n/a runners. round off the holes inside the chamber outward to compensate stacks. i know its not going to flow as well, but it opens it up more than the n/a manifold and cant see how it wouldn't outflow the stock under boost. i seen evos280z n/a jz manifold in the member project forums and looks almost like he ditched the stacks and just ported it out like how i mentioned above. i could be wrong. what do you think?

lol, well, yeah i mean a n/a 2jz with turbo!!!!

this might sound stupid but according to what i have been seeing, seems that it is true you can build a n/a 2jz cheaper and make better power than the 1jz. and a killer top end, not to change the topic but someone shine in.

how do they even get to the bolts on the center or the manifold?

did you guys catch the aluminum low profile 2ton floor jack? that one was sweet and was a deal also. too bad i forgot the price.

nice job. feels great doesnt it? i seen some jdm s30zg's with the same color with gray flares. looks pretty good with silver/aluminum color wheels.

i swear it looks like a 09 GTR when i first glanced at it.

i dont know if anyone seen this yet, but i thought it was a pretty sick little s30. this thing would rip on the streets.

duh, it goes to the intake inlet side (vacuum only) and the other one has pcv because it has vacuum and positive boost pressure. didn't think of that.