piston

i seen a guy using krylon plastic paint on his 240sx and it came out pretty clean. however im planning to use dupli color when its time for me since its made specific for vinyl.

this is probably going to sound like a straight up noob question. but on my n/a 2jz, it only has one pcv also but the other has 90 elbow only. whats up with that?

how come you dont run a 4inch pipe on the turbo inlet with the correct fitting for the catch can? and use a 3 port catch can so you can also run vacumm on the other valve cover? just a thought, but im sure you probably thought of it.

epsilons are sweet...its hard to come by a nice set with perfect offset.

cage was my winter project! but i ended up finishing it in about 2-1/2 weeks. now i can lay down my bed liner and sound proof materials. progress baby....

man, i didnt even see this thread, that would of pissed me off big time. waited that long and to make it worst, they deliver you some ♥♥♥♥ like that. sorry to heart that. thats very disapointing. hopefully you get it all fixed up and they should pay you extra for your time loss..

holy crap. thats fken sweet and a clean ass engine. i never notice the n/a rb25 comes with the same style 2jz n/a manifold. whats the hp rated at on the rb25 n/a? somewhere on youtube, someone has one wih itb setup in a s30 also.

sweet color. red looks killer on an s30. i can safely say it is the most work anyone can put into their own car if they are doing it themselves. how did you get away with using 320 grit blocksand and then paint? looks so smooth...

scuffed is up with some scuff pad, clean with acetone and rattle can it with rusttough gloss black.. similar to rustolium i guess.

check out the web site. brokedickracing.com, not trying to advertise for them but they have prices on there. i paid 260.00 or so for it.

you did meant to say l28et right?

hoop sits far enough to clear my head(helmet). it looks far from the pic but isnt really that far IMO. about 3 inches! the diameter is just big. 1 3/4. i figure if anything is going to happen unexpected, with my short a$$, the hoop is in its place to protect me!!! not way behind me. the highest area on the z chasis is in the center roof area and my head happens to sit only a little farther back from that area. brokedickracing makes custom bends but you can actually work with this one if you like to move it farther back, its doable and ready to go when order. i just didnt want the thought of the roof crushing on top of my head if anything. with the specs of the hoop posted on here by hybridz member, it sits really close to the inside walls. im keeping panels so i had to ditch the specs posted. i grinded down the welds to clean it up, if the track tech ask, my car runs somewhere in the 14's. if it does 10s, im going home happy!!! its really not a drag car, its more for the street and just for safety reasons. i grind down the front plates but didnt do that good of a job in the rears(ran out of disc). i honestly think it welded even better with the coating on it in some spots!lol. i can hook up gas to the mig, just dont have the time to get gas plus i had a roll of gasless wire already. its a little far up for the taller guys, but it clears for me.

also, mike321 has pages and pages of his build!!!

im not trying to be an ass but i seriously doubt anyone here is going to do your homework for you. someone just ask the same question not to long ago. HOW HARD IS IT TO SWAP 2JZ INTO A Z? get an aristo clip and grab a sc300 rear sump from junkyard and save yourself some $$$. visit supramania.com and they should have the main specific pinouts to supply power to. if you search around on there, they have it somewhere on the site.

not sure what you mean by treatment but its just an msa air dam with ducts...unless im not seeing something besides the round fogs.

lol, im 5-6. i check my seat adjustments and everything before i welded it in place. i still have a decent amount of room to play with. i didnt want to go too close to the roof and walls because i want to be able to use all my factory panels and be able to put em in without hassle especially the domelight cover panel. the welder is a harbor freight mig welder i think, not sure, my bros letting me use it. im using gasless 0.35 wire. thats probably why it splatters but it welds real nice in certain spots. everything is all grinded down to metal. im no pro so settings on the mig is all new to me also.

i bought a 6 point cage from brokedickracing.com and the package was shipped from s and w performance. someones the middle man here but its all the same dragster style cage like JEGS sell...they ended up sending me a 8 point cage instead but im not going to use the door bars because its going to be a street car and it makes it very uncomfortable getting in... as you can see the main hoop is extra long so you can cut it to fit your needs. next i had to cut up the 6x6 plates to make the hoop support and keep it NHRA legal(6x6). i think? i ended up buying extra plates because one plate will not cut it for the main hoop support. it will look something like this.... started to weld moving to different areas at a time. my welds are ugly and not the greatest but i think it will do the job. i couldnt stand the ugly welds so i had to get my grind on.. i first had to tack only one spot of the hoop to bottom supports then tack the rear support bars and grind the main hoop floor spot weld and roll it forward to finish the welds around because ther is no way to weld in between the domelight area and roof because the hoop runs straight with the domelight thingy. once thats all done, the rear plates go in and the hoop gets weld down. no more factory seatbelts...another $$$ heres what the rear plates look like next to my fabricated fuel cell area. you will no b able to run these bars if you keep the factory spare tire well because it drops right into the area. however you can cut them to make it work on the strut tower area. im diggin this look though. heres how it will look like with rear bars around and 6x6 plates around the tank. here i welded in the center angle support bar plates. had to hammer a bit to make it sit nice and flat. i had a line down about 1/4 ways so it will bend easier. heres what i hate about cheap cage. all kinds of gaps to fill and is all cut cheapy. i had to do alot of grining and cutting to make it all fit. all done.. roof clearance.. overall i think for what i paid, its not a bad deal. its heavy andthick.alot of cutting and grinding needed but it does the job and not a bad price for a budget cage for safety reasons.

i put on some seam sealer round the spot weld areas and finish it all up. looks pretty decent...

ok, here's my thought on a good realiable street 1jz. nice big turbo ofcorse... t62? my option will be a t70 if you want higher later harder spool (top end with more hp compatibility). somewhere on supra mania mentions the 1jz takes a bit longer to spool a t70. so a t62 will be a perfect street turbo and still capible of 500-550hp. injector... usdm 2jzgte 550cc should cover 500-550hp according to the 2jz na-t guys. anything more is always better for future madness. and ofcorse you already have it cover. a good standalone and tunning. 500hp is still in the mid ballpark and very doable with the 1jz. like i mention, metal HG, arp head studs and new rings and your motor should be rocking with 17 or more psi. will besides all the basic BOV, FMIC etc... this is just my though so someone shim in if they have any better ideas. im doing a plain jane 2jzge with GTE factory headgasket, ARP head studs and thats it for internals. besides the injectors/turbo/ and custom front face manifold, im planning to run MAP ecu which is a piggyback setup but very affordable. plan to run at least 17psi+ through a 70mm turbo and hope to see 500hp and some v8-10-12's through my rear view mirror on the freeway.

i want to see where it will actually come up on the shifter hole to get a feel first before doing any mods for the shifter extension. i have a feeling i can live with it just couple inches forward. i look at my 4runner and my shifter is located farther foward but the shifter itself has a 45/60 degree angle. i wonder why noone has tried just modding the shifter with that angle. looks really similar to the hurst shifters for the domestic guys with that 45 degree angle. i had that in mind since day one i thought of the 2jz shifter fix.

wow. gotta admit that rattle can match came out pretty good!

that's funny because that is exactly how mine is set up. batery next to the cell and roll cage bars drop down and welds next to it like that also. my batery box is fully cover all 4 sides but the bottom is open. i dont want the batery to look like crap from dirt flying on to it from the wheel. i would hate to go through those 7 lock pins every time i pump gas.

im not sure on how you dont plan to spend too much but from your list, it seems like you will be spending a whole bunch... looks like a wish list? you dont need to go all out on the 1jz motor to pull 500hp. sounds like your building something more in the 800hp from your list. put in some new rings, headgasket and arp studs and your good to go. no need for all the good stuff unless your really going all out. all those good parts just to pull 500hp is a little over kill IMO.

r154 trans..

i find the smaller the worst, the bigger the colder and the faster it works. i hate the wait time(15-20min) and it didnt work out well for me so i ended up using a screwdriver and hammer and knocked it all out. i ended up using my dry ice for smokes during halloween!!!