piston

i thought it was going to be controlled from an ps3 controller or something! j/k. you should of built something more like a bolt on instead of welding the plate permanantly on there. that mean you have to cut it off if you plan to change it in time.

i crused at 60mph on 6th gear with 3.90 rear at 2,500rpm. i think my speedos off by a bit though.

i do plan on getting tuner cat and i think it would be cool if tim lends it, but im sure thats not what he meant. im going to purchased one but if you dont need it tim, sell it to me. and yes, i do need them. keep your files in and ill take a look at it. i need the usb adapter since my laptop i have happens to be a late model. right now, my check light is working but im not sure why the gm code reader wont read anything. it just stays on and the fan stays on, but its not flashing and reading the codes. im still looking into that, still have to change my maf to a camaro one. and do a code read to see whats up with the check light, also, it idles at 1500rpm. i have new MAP, IAC, TPS and air temp sensor. it stil idles at 1500rpm with the check light. ill need to get all data or something since the code reader wont work....the code reader doesnt even use the serial data line, only aldl and ground. but it still doesnt work so to me, it doesnt make any since to hook up the serial data wire if theres no pin connected to it.

nice, im always worried about my tranny mount. i would stop and get out and look under my car to see if it still looks good. it does everytime. im just going to bash thing thing with no worries next time, i would hate to get towed home. i cant afford anything to break. my car has no rust issues and its actually a pretty clean straight chasis come to think of it. thats the only thing i can use to help myself drive this thing a little more agressive.

i personally would say ls1 with t56 if i had to redo mine. lt1 and t56 for now. if you dont have any experience and are not familiar with wiring and computers, dont do the fuel injection. itll take a whole lot of asking and learning and you wont be driving anytime soon unless its a long term project, go with fi any day. depends on your budget, for the price i spend finishing up my lt1, i could of had a stock ls1 t56 or a carb sbc single turbo...but the lt1 just looks so cool...i wanted gas mileage and reliability, thats why i went with the fuel injection. now at days if your lucky, depending on your location, you can get a t56 for 1000-1200. and please search, because this is a V8 forum..all we do here is talk about gm v8 swaps and plenty of info. what we use in our vehicles if your asking, everyone uses different gm v8 setups, ther is no specific swaps.

im not sure how you guys do it but in mine without power sterring, it looks like ill be going into someone else car if i was to do it. in the back of my head when i gun it and turn it on corners, my mind goes negative and think somethings going to break. probably because i built the car and have doubts about it. the chasis just dont seem like its strong enough, but when i think about you guys and alot more horses you guys put out and all the driving and turning, im more confident.

i got another problem, or question. i hooked up my obd1 port to the blue connector #20 and black/white wire to ground. i get no flashes or anything! the fan comes on and the ligth turns on when key is in on position. but when i have the gm code reader hooked up to it, it just stays off but the fan keeps running. no flashes. if its not blue connector pin#20, then which one is it? thers only two wire that needs to be hooked up and those are the two on the top right corner right? the tester has no pins anywhere else but one on the bottom but mathces to none of the wire i have on my obd1 port. i think that one is ABS tester. the gm code reader only has 3 pins. let me know what pin# and plug you guys are wiring your obd1 port too. the port is from a 94 camaro.

yeah, i mean i have a 10 gauge wire comming off the BAT post behind the alternator to constant hot with a 12g fuseable.

i did mine like this and double checked it with a hand held tester, not a cheapy one, one we use at work to test customer vehicles, and conefirmed it was charging. it read 13.5 on the batery while the car was at idle and read 12.7 when off. i have mines hooked up very simple, who would of thought. the idiot light seems a little confusing, so i went with the 470ohm resistor inline of the L wire and hooked it up to ignition hot. thats pretty much it left F term hanging. anyone could of just said it like that but it took post after post to get that simple anser. the constant hot wire pretty much goes to the bat positive post, mine goes to the fuse box with a inline fusable link on constant hot. you might want to use a 10gauge wire with a 12 gauge fusable link for insurance. check your alternator on a tester at an auto parts store to see if it holds charge under load and off load. im not sure what you mean by humm...???

this is what i found out, just unclip the fuel injector clip, and use the 9volt batery trick. itll spray out anything in there and drop the fuel psi. im sure its the same process as the shrader valve. plus all the fuel gets dump out into the cylinder and not onto the manifold where you have to clean things up. hope that helps because that what i do, i find it easier and less mess.

i was looking at this pic and it looks like your fuel lines are hanging slightly lower than your frame rails, that wouldnt be an issue would it? im just thinking what if it scrapes over something???

cool, ill be doing a safety switch tonight after work. i am so tire of sitting out in front of the car and when it idles down and dies, i have to run inside the car to turn off the key, it sucks and when i put it to ignition on, to test my circuits, i have to pull the fuse so it wont pump. thanks for the info guy...

whats up guys..i moved my car out the garage and just thought i might show you guys some exterior pics of my car. i still got some body work and sanding to do but the cars pretty straight and no rust at all..what do you guys think??? im probably going to paint it gunmetal or a dark smoke color or shiney black or matalic bronze...

you guys are the best man, but im not done yet...big big thanks to 80lt1 and wheelman...the two who has help me through this frustration. ok, after asking so many questions, i finally hooked up the L wire on the connector and solder in a 470ohm resister, hook up the check engine light left the F wire hanging, i fired it back up and man it sounds so much better and the rpm is way more steady then before. i let it idled over 2 minutes or so and tap the throttle and the rpm needle still moves second slower like before and would drop back down and stuble to a complete stop and ill have to start it up again. i think i might of damaged my IAC and TPS when i cleaned it with high strength degreaser. it still throws a check engine light also. i was just worried it wasnt going to be drivable and idle like crap forever. now it sounds so much better..ill be getting a cheapy GM code reader from work and see what it says, in the mean time, im looking forward to getting tunercat and tune it to the fullest and hopefully it runs even better. but thatll be a whole new learning experience for me so bare with me guys, cause ill be asking you... i think the whole time it had a crappy rpm climb was because the check light wasnt hooked up causing the pcm to panic and also, it reacted slow due to the alternator connector not being wired up correctly and it was sucking juice straight out of the batery and not enough power to power the engine and pcm needs. ill be hooking up ground to certain locations on the engine hearing everyone tell me lt1 loves ground connections, im gonna feed this biatch all she can eat. my MAF im for sure is a caprice maf and not a camaro,vette MAF. i can always get another one, but this will do for now. the IAC i guess is probably the same one since the camaro with oil coolers shares the same part #. i might just have to program the pcm to know its oil cooler equip so itll function with the oil cooler equip IAC lt1s. now another short question..the pcm pin that controls the fuel pump will be the fuel pump relay control red connector pin#7? or fuel enable pin#25? im sure its relay control #7 but just want to be safe. again, thanks to everyone who replied to me. now i can sleep again. hopefully!!!fingers crossed!

ok, i got another F terminal ok! im gonna go with the L terminal to the 470ohm resister and call it a day. guy, are you sure thats true??? that means its the same as the L wire and no charge light in between right and just to ignition hot then right?

thanks wheel man, all i needed was the ok that it was for sure the L terminal and f terminal can hang loose unhooked. i should be doing this tonight and see what the result is, and hopefully not another alternator. thanks..

so the ses wire from the pcm actually connects to the neg side of the bulb and the other side pretty much just goes to ign hot right? one more thing about the alternator wire. which wire needs to be wire, im getting L wire and some say its the F wire. if its F wire for example, this F wire goes to the neg side of the indicator lamp correct or splices into the ground wire on the bulb,the other side of the bulb then connects to ignition hot? im still lost.

another short dumb question before it doesnt work and i start getting worried. the wire that comes out of the pcm to check for trouble code is the adl link wire or something like that correct. i just hook that one up onto the obd1 port and wire up a negative and port is ready to go right?

by the way, where do i buy tunercat from and how much and what do i need???

im at work right now and looking at the IACs and it looks like the difference is the oil cooler! lt1s equip with an oil cooler has a different IAc from non oil cooler lt1s. im wondering, what the hell does an oil cooler have to do with IAC??? i have an oil cooler factory on my lt1, what if i run the non oil cool IAC on my engine, whats that going to do or how is that going to effect my engine??? it looks like f body equip with oil cool has the same IAC from 94-95 lt1 as on the caprices. ill barrow my buddies non oil cool IAC from his lt1 and see what happens. this is crazy, ther is so many little differences in the lt1 that i never thought of. ill let you guys know whats up when i get the chance to do the IAC swap and see whats the results.

yeah, im going to hook up a ground block on my neg bat post and go straight to the engine in variouse places. hook up a check light. quick Q on the ses light, the ses wire from the pcm goes to bulb pos then the other just goes to ground right? stupid question but thought i might ask anyways. also, i hear if i dont hook up an idiot light to the wire, it wont charge right and it will shorten the life of the alternator? from what it sounds, you guys are saying is to just hook up the wire to ignittion hot and itll charge? ill be looking into the iac differences also. the harness i know is pretty much similar. i checked colors on the wires and the color connectors before i loomed it up using the camaro pinouts and everything matches.. i think its just some of the sensors that are different. i havent talked to pcm america yet, the guy lives in newyork and im in cali. far away...im going to try to trouble shoot it first before i send it out anywhere, if all comes to worst, like said, ill rather ship it out to a hybridz member that knows what their doing instead of someone just basic tunning pcms.

yeah, the guy tuned it for a camaro im sure, since i just told him it was an lt1 t56(not specific.). suposebly at the time, i thought it was all the same. i didnt know the maf was different also. ill look into that and measure it, if i recall, it was 3 1/4 when i measured a while back. i dont have the ses light hooked up, but i will be doing that also. ill be checking the idle air control valve also. i bought the pcm from them programed through them. i dont think it was programed to run the caprice since i thought it was all the same at the time. ill be swaping all the differnces i guess but first ill have tp see whats really up before changing everything. hopefully its nothing big. what sofeware are you using to programe your pcm? i was wondering if worst comes to worse, you think you can check out my pcm if i ship it to you? itll be great is you can.

anyone??? specific indicator lamp wiring anyone???

yeah, i was just looking at bartmans old post about how he had to swap out his idle air control valve. ill be doing that check, and also, i was at work looking through our catolog and notice that the knock sensors on all the lt1s are different and some used in 94-95 only and at the same time, the lt4 knock sensor is also tha same as the 96-97 camaro. it goes back and forth, these are delphi parts and ac delco parts im looking at. anyways, the one i have on right now is only compatible with 94-95 caprice, and the ones in the f body camaros are different part# but in 96, the part switched to the same one as on the 94-95 caprice, but the oem part on the lt4 is the delco one and its also the samne as the 96-97 camaro. i can get anyone for 20 bucks. whats the recomended one?

jbc3, the throttle is functioning good but im not sure how to check the tps. all the vacumm is hooked up and i have no vacumme ports open anywhere. the rpm, drops down and almost stubles to a stop once a while but climbs back up to 2k and stays there. now after starting it a couple of times, i notice my fan turns on right away...somethings up for sure...i dont have anything to tune or edit my pcm...my pcm was progrqamed by some guy from pcmamerica. basic tune and edited out all the emissions and stuff i didnt need like a/c egr and stuff like that. guy, my engine doesnt have much in it, its just a stock 94 caprice lt1 with lt4 cam, spring and 1.6 rr. and thats all i can think of for internal mods. i need to get tuner cat or someone to monitor or check my pcm. its acting crazy and i dont know what the hell is wrong with it. i havent looked into what editing software is availible for the pcm but i heard of tunercat and datamaster. how hard is it to work these programs, im sure it no different from hondata, since i use to do ecu mods for hondas...price wise??? how much? man, money, money and more money...by the way, where do i buy these software program or editing devices from anyways??? ok, now what about the indicator light set up and wiring??? why does my light stay on? with the light on, it throw me off to not run it so long cause im gonna fry the alternator, without it wired correctly, i cant check anything.