piston

so is streetfighter running 28psi on bone stock GE with just aftermarket headgasket and arp studs? thats awsome. im might be considering that route instead of the gte. for the price, the ge can be pretty dangerous with that extra cash invested. i just hate that ugly distributor hanging on the side! lol.

good point. by the way, i just picked up a small bumper 74 260z and back in business babie...will post pic in another forum when taken.

i will be using a pressure washer to strip my z after the paint stripper sets. way easier. just dont set it too high. i use it to clean all my other cars also and it works like a champ. any washer within the 1000 psi range should do the job. i use a walmart 1500 psi portable washer and works just as good as my 2500 psi space hogger.

i dont mind being stationed in japan if i was in the military.

it kinda looks like one of those s13 fiberglass bumper bodykit on ebay.

i dont know if the front flat face look is going to match the z.

usually you can find them at a local pick n pull all day for 150.00 plus core. j/k. sorry bro, that thats a really noob question. ebay, google, atarco, venus-auto(d*ckhead owner)...

i seen this camaro on youtube. at one point, i saw a vid of this car racing a new 09 gtr and the gtr pulled on it. i was like, WTF.. cant find the vid anymore. it was on youtube also. lots of room n engine compartment. the car now is over 1000+hp from the last vid i saw.

im sure when it comes around, i should be able to tackle it. the lt1 is easy cause there are alot of aftermarket computer programmers out there to use and its pretty much x this and x that, reset and your done. too bad thers not anything out there for the 1jz/2jz that is affordable.

hahaha, i was dumb then. i thought the little 3 marks around the balancer ring was for that. i worked so fast i never got to the timing deal. but the car ran great so i left it and went no further. i think i cross threaded my bolt, thats why it was kinda tough going in but it seemed pretty straight. the worst thing was when i broke my bolt in there, i used a cheapy easy out and that f**ker broke in there too and will not drill for shiet. lol. that was so long ago and i think i remeber posting something about this.

well, heres my old lt1 t56 280z. i thought it haded a little too much bling bling but it still looks aight.

i experienced with both motors b and f and the balancer dont line up like how you mentioned. when you use the tool to pull the balancer, make sure it pulls evenly. your probably going to want to mark your balancer and crank as it has no keyway for some stupid GM reason. soak it good with pentrating oil and make sure you use a good quality tool. i got a rental one from autozone and it works ok but returned it with a damaged head. lol. when you put it back on, line it up with the markings you made as it is pressed on or goes on by tightening the crank bolt. again with no keyway, it just goes back on however or with the marks you made to be most accurate. i broke my balancer bolt into my crank and drilled for 7 hours and had to replace my block. i was pissed but it was a learning experience. that gave me an excuse to go with the real lt1 with alluminum heads as rebuilding the old block would cost more than buying another used block.

i just used disc brake grease on mine. its water/heat resistant and wont melt off. plus its made for metal to metal contact.

man, if the lt1 is a nightmare, then the 1jz/2jz should be a piece of cake. i actually thought the lt1 was pretty simple. im all worried about the 2jz and now that you said that, it makes me more confident cause the lt1 was pretty easy for me. alot of reading but easy.

haha, thats awsome. i havent paid too much attention to the pans but rear sumps came in mks and ??? r154s from 87-92 mk turbos right? and w58 are from? im still reading on this but im making it short and asking you guys. haha. im a noob. ima take a trip to pick n pull anyways this weeend for some other non hybridz related but thought it might be a good question to ask.

the 2jz your talking about wouldnt happen to be the one from the aristo? 1jz is my second option. but as of right now, im on a waiting list and not anytime close to starting anything yet.

by the way, the roll pins can be found at a local napa autoparts store. i know cause i work there and we got it, and thats also how i found my air fitting. sounds cheapo but it works.

i had a tilton in my old lt1 t56 and it feels pretty good. not too hard but slightly stiffer than stock z. believe it or not, i used an air fitting and grinded it down to fit the slave cylinder and grinded a line accross the side like the oem clutch hose for the lock pin and it worked perfect with no leaks. too bad i dont have anymore pics of it. it would save alot from using an oem hose, cutting the head piece off and welding it to a aftermarket hose to make it work. the air fitting is soo much easier and is only 3/4 bucks from a local autparts store. the oem hose is kinda pricey.

that double din must be in the high dollor range? i wouldnt mind having that in my 4runner. hahaha. you should check out the crazy ass japanese ones on ebay. even more crazy, got so many colors, it looks like a party going on in your car. i kinda figure 1jz was map. i guess the only way to get away with no maf on 2jz is aem?

i personally wouldnt use that 7inch moniter in my z. theif magnet. and plus, i wouldnt have time to listen to the cd kos i wanna enjoy the sound of exhaust,turbo,bov... by the way grits, are you using stock ecu? how did you eliminate maf or did 1jz came with map? dont read too much on 1jz.

man, that r6 was acutally pulling in this vid for a minute. i pull my buddies r6 and gsxr600 with my 06 zx 636 all day but i sure cant pull no supra...lol.

hopefully. my lt1 was a little off more to the pass than suppose to and it kinda vibrated a bit. i dont know, some people get away and some dont. do the laser alignment with the lasers and that should give you a less chance with vibration issues. cant wait to pick up another z and a 2jz. just waiting for income tax. lol...

hey grits, i just noticed you crank bolt position or maybe its just the pics. the center looks to be dead on center position but the datsun engine and rear diff face is offset 3/4 to the passenger side? did you make sure it was positioned 3/4 towards the passenger side as factory positioned? this will make it straight from crank to tranny shaft through drive shaft to diff a dead on straight balanced position. my concern now is vibration issues while in motion! wait, stupid me, after looking at the other pics of when you first put the engine in, it looks like you already got it handled.

not to sound like an ass but if the local shop hasent put hands on a 2j harness themself. i wouldnt try it because there doing your homework for you and probably reading on 2jzswap firguring it out. i notice alot of shop guys do stuff for the very first time also but has alot of performance knowledge but that doesnt mean they are going to do your harness right because i can almost guarantee if if they havent done it before(2jz harness), it will come out just as good as you doing it yourself. i tell myself i can tackle this harness when the job comes around if ever, it just takes time and research. i done my old lt1 and it was cake walk. im going to say that the 2jz couldnt be that much more difficult. if it is, i can mail 2jzswapper for the Qs and hopefully get my ansers right! lol. but yeah, 450.00 sounds pretty fair to me plus all the extra relays and good stuff.

i would like to see your guys cars in person but im tight on everything right now. can barely free up some cash for gas. lol. when i get another z, ill be here more often even though i dont have one now, im on here anyways. so much useful information that will benifit in the future. i hope noone minds, but if i come across one, ill get it. and thats a old 1st gen celica ta22. i know, i know, buster... but those cars are as cool as z's. very hard to decide. i want the 2jz, and the celica will have to be cut up if going that way and i would hate to do that, and the z has all kinds of engine space with only mount fab. but thats another story so lets stick to the subject.