piston

very professionally said 2jzswapper. i will be contacting you if i ever do a 2jz swap which i have plans for in the near future. plus, i only live in plumas lake by yuba city. as of right now, all i can do is read and do my homework on 2jzswap.com and research here. havent posted in a while since i traded my z.

isnt the maf in the wrong location? shouldnt it be where the inlet is on the turbo?

ok, after looking at the craigslist post, the guy is a different owner now... i gueesthe guy i did a trade with must of made his profit already. if youdont have 9k, he wanted to do a straight trade with a stock 240sx. i was flippin when i saw that...i bet hes stressing with my wiring under the dash...

wow, thats alot for my z. where were you when i was selling it for 6k? yeah, thats my old z car, maybe some of you arent familiar with me but search my post and you should understand how the z came together on this forum. i did a trade for it and this fool screwd me over, but im just keeping it on the low side cause i dont want any problems. i know i might sound like an ass, but people call and ask me about the z all the time and i dont have time to explain and im not about to make this fool a big ass profit. he passes my numbers to his customers and ask me to explain about the car. its his now, he should do the selling and hustle. all i can say is, its not as fast as i thought it would be when i had it. and has tons of work put into it that he doesnt know of. but i wouldnt buy it, cause if anything goes wrong, itll suck to try to try to understand cause its all rewired and most lt1 guys have differnt ways of wiring and itll suck to try to find the solution when you dont know whats what. relays arent label, all wires are in red. relays are located in differnt spots in the car. you wouldnt know unless you strip the harness. i know cause i did everything. thats what suck about buying a project fuel injected computer control swap. this kid punches the car 24/7. went out of control and ate a curb and bent the tie rod. so you might want to check the frame. also, i dont know why he spray caned the car for, i did hours and hours of bondo job on it then he spray cans it. thats kinda no brainer. but yeah, enough of that. if you guys are wondering what i traded it for, 2006 kawasaki zx6r bike. i know im a buster but someday, another z will come into my hands and ill be hanging out here again.

wonder how come i cant load my pics???

wow, i havent been on here for 2 months. anyways, when you find out why its at 1500rpm, let me know because mine is at 1500 rpm also. but i think its just my tach because it redlines at 7500. man, this tunercat tool section gets me lost. i think it runs good already the way mine is, its just not full potential. anyways, hopefully you find your problem and dont hesitate too much. at least your in beter shape than me. my z has a check light 24/7 and the fans turn on at all times. it idles and runs fair. but oh well, i havent gotton the chance to even undersatand the tool section in tuner cat yet and have no idea about how to mess with the tool section tunercat offers.

i think wheelman is the main man on the wiring besides that, im just repeating everything i learned from him and other lt1 guys...and my own experiences...im using an autometer speedometer and i lost my signal lights, but who needs to signal? lol...i gotta get it fix because im so use to using it, i signal everytime to get nothing...

dont send it out to get it basic tuned, its a waist of money. you will find that its not going to be worth it because your going to want to tune it more and fix your errors and who knows what the tunner is programming in. i sent mine out and it runs but it throws check lights and is not running full potential due to the pcm tunner not know everything im using or deleting. even though you think its your final decision you will end up doing something else like deleting things or adding things to make it run perfect, and the only thing i can think of is just get tuner cat and save that extra dollor...i waisted 200bucks and the only thing i benifited was the car running for more than 30 seconds for removing vats...every engine is somewhat different and has different tunnings, the basic tune is ok, but not worth the money after seeing what tunercat has to offer...

ill check the comm setting, and yes i loaded the cd already but didnt know it also had settings on tunercat for which number wires to use. i need to connect the pin 20 and see if that will also work. i always thought i just had to hook up a and m and the other one ( optional for running code tests or diagnostic purposes and i didnt need it for tunercat but ill try it. i threw away the wire and pulled the in out so i only now have two wires. ill ghetto rigged that and see it itll work.

i just got tunercat downloaded and wired up my obd1 port, and got my akm obd1 usb cable and cd loaded. when i click on the top screen in tools to go to read the pcm, it says cable failed. not reading any signal. i have my ground wire on the obd1 port (A) hooked up to ground and the other one (M) goes to blue connector, tried both pin 29 and 30 and even field service enable pin 20...got nothing. i dont know if its the akm cable or the pcm itself. heres what i tried so far.. i switched the tiny switch on the akm cable back and forth and didnt make any difference. i moved the M wire back and forth between pins 29 and 30, got nothing. cliked on all three pcm_ee, pcm_eeb and ecm_42, switched back and forth, still no signal. checked the pins to see if it will light up my tester tool, didnt get any signal, dont know if its suppose to but thought id tried. all the wires and the cables are tight and connected, dont know why its not reading any signal from the pcm when i try to read the pcm. i tried a generic gm obd1 code reader and it wasnt able to read any codes either but the code reader turns on my radiator fan meaning ther is some signal somewhat right? im trying to tune my pcm and delete out some more stuff im not using and get rid of the check engine light in hopes of it running better...what do you guys think might be wrong or any inputs on what next to check? the car runs fine...thanks in advance...

i need something to get an idea or to look around at...i barely got around to looking on turnercats site...i tried to download it already but for some reason it didnt work... so im guessing they dont send me nothing? and i just pay for the registration # and download and work it from there? i thought i was suppose to recieve some kind of cd or something since they asked me for shipping address...if thats so then ive been waisting time sitting around waiting...

trans tunnel from the 240z is different from the newer 280z...

hey guy, i might be e-mailing you to see if you can attatch me a bin file to see your adjustments on tuner cat. ill be getting tuner cat sometime this week in the mail...got the cables but not tuner cat program for some reason/..

all im saying is that from a roll, between the two, on the 1/4 like he stated, the turbo will build its power band over the n/a due to higher exhaust flow=faster boost...trust me, 300 na on the 1/4 mile against 300 turbo is a difference, 1/4 will take blink of seconds to build boost and throw down some slower times for turbo. when on the highway, itll well also be different because the turbo has the advatange due to higher and more exhaust flow meaning quicker boost response...whats not making sense???sorry guy for jacking your thread..

the point is that with turbo/supercharger force inducion period,will make faster top end speed and having the potential due to boost. ofcorse the big block will rape the 2.0 turbo but how much hp can it really push out on the top end on the highway? you can smoke anyone on the 1/4 mile but that doesnt mean you can beat em on the highway..

wow..dude, i know guy can smoke this guy already, im just saying with guys mods, the srt will probably cruise pass him. sounds like you think im trying to put him down??? i didnt say turbo cars are unbeatable, thats a negative thing to say. this is on his and his buddies car only. i didnt say that turbo cars are unbeatable..., im just saying that a car equip with force induction will produce a high mph compare to n/a, not beacause they are slower on the low end, thats a weak excuse. more % of top end cars are force induction. hp is hp, but lets say 300hp on a turbo against 300 n/a. you know for sure the turbo is not going to outrun the n/a off the drag. turbo hp does not react like n/a hp. n/a hp reacts right off the bat, turbo reacts on the higher end. but just because we all here have v8s also does not mean we can outrun any turbo cars!!! i have an lt1 in my z, i can tell you now that on the 1/4 mile, this thing is fast, but on the highway, im not sure about top ends...an srt4 has potential of some pretty high mph, i better have alot of mods to make my lt1 run past 145mph n/a. remember, im only talking about the lt1 and the srt neon. i love my v8, but im just saying that the srt's do have alot of potential when you compare it to a basic moded lt1, its not slow because its a neon!!!. someone correct me if im wrong.

eventually srt4 makes wonders on top end. fwd with high boost equals fast top end acceleration...the lt1 better have nice mods to pull fast mph top end speeds. besides that, its sick from the roll to 120mph in seconds...turbo cars pulls faster top ends then n//a IMO..

nice...looks like you hade fun in the zx. im hoping to have some fun in my z too and hopefully it runs as good as some of you lt1 guys out there. i have too much doubts but ill see what happens when tuner cat comes in sometime this week. with the top end, eventually the turbo is going to boost slowly past you and have a higher mph advantage.

i think its pretty dumb to have a customer ship back a hood at his own expense and get the hood cost back. that would totally piss anyone off. if they want you to ship that one back, they should have refund your full amount back with shiping cost at their own expense due to their non quality parts. its customer satisfaction right! i recieve a crappy msa style air dam from one of the members here that molds them from fiberglass himself. it did not fit at all and when you pull it to bolt it to each fender, the fiberglass is about to break and doesnt reach and the spoiler itself it 1/2 inch shorter on each side. i force the crap out of it and called it a day. i didnt want any problems, so i kept the crappy air dam. hopefully you get a better quality hood and everything works out good. goodluck.

i wouldnt go for blue IMO. i didnt want to over do the engine. i like the basic look..

thanks for all the feedback. bubleguina, i though about building a single turbo kit for it but im not going to be using all that hp and itll al go to waist. its for daily driving..

the throttle is painted unfortanantly...it was a little hard to get the stuff off so i painted it. the manifold is also painted black, the original color is the alloy color. i black looks better to me, i got the idea from barts lt1...fuel pressure is a cheapy from ebay. its not the prettiest but it looks good. the throttle cable is a universal mrgasket..

yeah guy, i got the motor from some lady here local. her ex burned her camaro interior sold she parted the car out. the motor was really clean! infact, i didnt have to do much cleaning at all...the intake manifold up is from the older lt1 caprice motor. i was going to stroke out the old caprice lt1 but i figure ill start with another stock to get it running to understand it better. i agree the intake looks better than an ls1 intake but the ls1 just sounds so much more bad ass these days...ehehe...i still love the lt1s though. it looks clean because almost everything external is new on this motor. ill post up more pics but for now, more tunning then to the interior. you guys should see me the the body paint forum...

i think its a little over do. keep the center, and remove the two on the outside IMO.

i recently took my old lt1 caprice motor out and put in the new 94 camaro motor w/ aluminum heads and swaped over the airvent opti crap and cams etc.... i broke the crank bolt into the old lt1 caprice motor and had to remove the bolt since the easyout broke into the bolt too, so i was doomed so i rip the thing out and bought a use motor from this lady whos x-husband had installed some nice shiny race crane gold 1.6rr and chrome vlave covers so that was a plus for 400bucks ! anyways, heres the new engine pics, looks like the old one but cleaner and clearer images in my new house and roomy garage...i still gotta work out some bugs and tune this thing to run like a champ but it runs ok for now! i just stand there drinking my beer looking at my motor everytime i got out to the garage and think to myself, wow, what a clean instalation i did. it looks factory installed and looks like it came with the z. so much work put into the z make me apreciate the z more than any other cars i had....plus, its a kick ass car anyways..