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HybridZ

Noddle

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Everything posted by Noddle

  1. Was this can running any anti-freeze ?, I would think all this talk about freezing water in engine blocks could be fix by running anti-freeze in the cooling system my 2 cents worth and I have always called them welsh plugs.. Nigel
  2. a stupid question, your tank does have a breather ?, and not creating a vacuum Nigel
  3. Sorry, thought you had a link else where, as in not this site. Nigel
  4. Much chance you can have a look for this, could be handy later Nigel
  5. stagefumer11, What’s the "T" piece connected to, on your fuel pressure regulator ?
  6. Thanks you for that BRAAP, I done a seach like you suggested and found this, http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4848281.html a nice read. Nigel
  7. BRAAP, could you please answer my question from 2 posts up, this would be for a non turbo engines, Nigel
  8. I have a question on manifold / head port matching, exhaust and inlet, Braap said in one of his posts in this thread, "The intake valve opens, the piston draws the air into the cylinder, air flow is speeding up, the intake valve closes, the air still has momentum and we all know air has weight/density, the air charge compresses behind the intake valve and surges back, much like a wave hitting a wall and coming back. Then it comes back again with “almost†the same force so as the intake valve opens the air is already moving toward the valve so the piston doesn't have to draw it in" my question is, if the intake manifold has a smaller diameter port than the cylinder head, thus creating a small step, and the same for the exhaust, been slightly larger, will this help with the "Helmholtz" effect or make it worse ?, or should you just port match the head and the manifold to the same size ? see picture.. Nigel
  9. Hi, These two manifolds are slightly different, will they work the same, or would one be better that the other, The reason I ask is the rusty one, has the turbo close to the center of the manifold, and the painted one is closer to one end. Nigel
  10. Are the gauges angled up, to make them easier for the driver to see ?. Like in these pictures
  11. I found one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250069629077&rd=1,1 The only problem is the cost of freight, I spoke with the guy, and he said it would cost US $108 via air mail, he said he would not send it surface mail, his reason is that it take 6 month to get to Australia, So this make sourcing one a lot harder, I might try NewZealand. Nigel
  12. How common / rare are the turbo manifold in the US for the L-Series engine?, what would you pay for good one? Are there different types?, i.e. for L24 / L26 / L28, what are the differences if there are any thanks for any information Nigel
  13. Are gasless mig welders worth buying ?, I'm looking for something cheap to do panel / exhaust type welding with. Nigel
  14. I'm sorry, but I suppose it comes down to what part of the planet you come from, as for "Autometer", I have never heard of them till today.. The cost for the Speco gauge is about $180 AUS, about $100-$110 US but as for what "mario_82_ZXT" said, it's not a wideband I've also been looking into this, http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/fmd.htm DIY project for about $60 AUS, but the "Bosch LSM11" sensor is a killer, unless I can get a second hand one.
  15. Is something like this worth buying ? http://www.speco.com.au/gauges_sports.html look at the bottom of the page, part # 524-40: Nigel
  16. you could change the water pump pulley size ?
  17. I just fitted EFI to my L24 last week, and every thing was running fine, Today I decide to wash the engine, since there was some oil in the engine bay, and on the engine, I finished washing it, and I decide to take it for a run to dry it out a bit, going down the road, I stuck my foot into it a bit and as soon as it hit 3K it just cuts, like one huge dead spot, but when the RPM drops to about 2.5K it fires up again, till it hit 3K again and then dies again, I remembered reading some where about the "Bosch L Jetronic EFI" system where it said that above 3K RPM when you take your foot off the throttle, it turns the injectors off ( to cut emissions ) , any way to cut a long story short. The hood on the plug for the TPS (Throttle Position Switch) was damage, it had a hole in the rubber. When I washed the motor, water entered through the hole and sat in the TPS plug, thus shorting it out, so the ECU thought the throttle was closed at 3K, and switched the injectors off, when I removed the pool of water in the plug, it ran fine I though this may be useful to others who may have the same problem. Nigel
  18. Well no, I don’t own a 'Z' but a 240K, engine is still an "L" series though, is that close enough? but thanks for the pictures, it will a great help, Nigel by the way, this is what my car looks like,
  19. When adjusting the valves, do you have the lob straight up from the rocker to adjust, or have the cam lobes in there V position (per cylinder) to adjust ? see pictures Nigel
  20. Thank you for the information, I did know that there is a difference with dry and oiled threads, but was not sure if that was the case here, since I could not find that information in my book. Nigel
  21. Should I use oil on head bolt threads and on the washer when I go to tension them ? this is on a L24 Nigel
  22. Is that dry or with oil on the thread / under the head?, I do know it makes a difference. Also the head tension is that dry or with a little oil, as my book doesn’t mention it. thanks
  23. What is the Cam Tower Bolt tension for a L24 I can't find it in my manual Thanks, Nigel
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