Noddle

This will be about all I will be doing, except plugging the holes. I was going to buy some tungsten carbide bits, but when I saw the price AUS $90 each, down to about $60 for the small ones, and since I would not use them very often, I couldn't justify buying them, and my wife would have "hiffy" fit. Nigel

Spent another hour working on it tonight

I answered my own question, I don’t need it, it connects to the Boost Controlled Decelerating Device, (BCDD), thanks BRAAP, after reviewing my pictures (I can’t remember everything) , I see where it came form and where it’s going.. BTW, it’s not any "Z" car.. And yes I know this is a "Z" car site, but since it's a L24E, I thought it may be similar to something else out there.. Nigel

Not sure what this does, I believe it operates when the engine is cranking, it appears to be connected to the dissy and manifold, but I dont have my pictures here to check,, I think it can be removed ? Nigel

I spent 2 hours or so tonight, I found using a drill made the job easier

Just spent 40 minutes with a grinder It is slow going..

A very good Idea, or maybe little welsh plugs, Thanks for the hint, Nigel

"casting flash" I believe its called, no cracks.

I found holes into the runners, behind the bungs , so I won't be able to remove the "blue" area in the original picture, unless I get them welded up, but since money short, and I'm trying to do it on the "cheep", I will remove only the "red" area. I will pay the local wreckers a visit, I may find something, but since EFI " L " engines didn't arrive in Australia till about 1982 (I may be wrong, but I believe the early MR30, didn't arrive till '82), I may not find any non pollution manifolds.

Thanks for that, I did read this about 4 months ago, but couldn't find it, I did do a search using BRAAP as the creator, but since you didn't create the thread, thats why I didn't find it, but I did answer one of your posts from another area,

Did you ever get a reply to this ?, You could use "Autoit" (http://www.autoitscript.com/autoit3/) and write a simple script to watch for the "space bar" to be pressed, then perform the required action. Nigel

Got a camera ?, a picture is worth a thousand words.. then every one will know exactly what you are talking about.

Nice isn't it ?, but for $600 US and shipping to Tasmania, I don’t think so, Cygnusx1, large cracks in the exhaust manifold, if you couldn't tell Slownrusty, I will be running extractors, this should reduce the heat under the manifold, since it will have more clearance, and not have a huge thermal mass sitting there, trying to get every thing hot, I think I will "hack" it, my time is free, and I have some tools, air compressor, Air pneumatic Die Grinder, I will need to get some carbide bits, not sure about the purple and blue bits in the picture, I will have to pull out some of the plugs to see what behind there. I'll take some pictures as I go.. Nigel

Thank you, for your quick reply BRAAP, I thought using the coloured lines would make it easier to get across my question.. Nigel

Just wondering whats the best way to remove the webbing on this manifold, I was looking at removing the RED part , see image, the blue and purple may be too much of a hassle to do, the main reason I want to do this, is to make it a little nicer on the eyes, and to help with getting to the exhaust studs. Nigel.

In these 2 pictures, the Red Line I believe if for Fast Idle (Cold start), The Blue is for IDLE (I think), what is the Purple for ?, can this be removed ? thanks,

Make sure your drain the oil, as it may have water in the sump, waiting to sucked through the bearings when you start it.. Nigel

Have you looked at getting one form across the water, from our sheep loving neighbor ? (New Zealand)

Yes, I brought a MR30 Skyline Hatch (1985) 2 days ago, just to rip out the EFI setup to put it my my 240K, (and the rear discs), I was plaining just to transplant it the way it is (head and EFI), I do like the clean setup that BRAAP has, but things like EDIS (non existent in Australia, unless you import it), and I would think, after market EFI will have to wait, Thank you to all that replied Nigel

In my Datsun 240K, it's my daily driver, but since I'm not in the US, I think I can get rid of most of the pollution stuff.

Just wondering what crap I can remove from this engine, Original High Res image here 1.1 meg http://noddle.customer.netspace.net.au/My_240K/R30%20Skyline/100_4230.jpg

Thanks for that, I thought that may be the case as the turbo winds up, but the book I was reading, didnt show that (Maximun Boost),or I didn't read it, any way I have ordered a copy of "TURBOCHARGING", so hopefully this will explain it better. and thanks again, for not shooting me down, as I have said i'm new to all this..big learning curve.. Nigel

Is this what you are saying ?, not sure of the numbers though, since im new to turbos, i'm trying to get my head around it, I ploted the lines (roughtly) from these figures, (not sure if the will line up in here) 168 Cubic Inches 2.75 Liters 10 Boost 1.68 Pressure Ratio 0.80 Ev -------- 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500 RPM 0.90 1.35 1.81 2.26 2.71 3.16 3.61 4.06 4.52 4.97 5.42 5.87 Mim lbs/min, PR = 1 2.26 3.39 4.52 5.64 6.77 7.90 9.03 10.16 11.29 12.42 13.55 14.67 Max lbs/min, PR = 1.68 4.52 6.77 9.03 11.29 13.55 15.80 18.06 20.32 22.58 24.83 27.09 29.35 Max lbs/min, Turbo Is this what you mean ?, that the turbo will not spool at the lower revs ?

Hi, I dont know much about turbos, But looking at the information he posted, he is not saying the "T04B-60-1" was the better choice, my understanding on what he said was the best turbo choice was the "T04E-50" Nigel

looks like the formulas are straight out of "Maximum Boost" book, I wrote this to help me do the same thing, pic included. added lbs/min