Noddle

are you talking about the S12w or S13W ? I spent about 5 month chasing s13w on ebay (Australia), very hard to come by, the s12w are a dime a dozen. I'll be upgrading my 240K with the S13WB calipers and slotted Verada Discs (276x24mm), with MR30 real discs and calipers Nigel

One thing, I don't own a "Z", but my system is pretty much the same, it's uses a "Bosch L Jetronic" system. all I'm doing is changing the resistance the ECU reads from the temp sensor. The rotary switch is wired for 3 settings, normal, ie direct connection to the ecu to temp sensor, rich - ecu through a resistors to the temp sensor, and lean, ecu through a resistors to ecu earth (no temp sensor). To work out the resistance, all I did was for lean was, drive the car for 1/2 an hour or so, make sure it was very hot, (hotter than normal driving) ie hill driving, and record the resistance (L1) of the temp sensor, for rich - start the car cold, leave it idling for a minute or so and record the resistance (R1). You need to also record the resistance when the engine is in its normal running temperature (N1) I done this a year or 2 before I got my wide band, so doing the above I though it should be with in a safe limit on my car the lean setting is about 1 and a bit AFR leaner than normal, I can't select this setting until the engine has been running for a few minutes, else it has a nasty dead spot just off idle. I've included a picture that may help The resistance for rich setting would be "N1-R1" , the resistance for the lean would be "L1" I hope this makes sense Nigel

I've been using this trick for a while, I have a rotary switch connected to my temp sensor, I have 3 positions, rich, normal (straight through), and lean here's a picture on how its wired.

If you need anyone out side of the US to test this, I'm your man.. awesome work I must say. Nigel

sorry, may be I should have also said that using a socket / ratchet, turn the engine at the crank clockwise, to make the right side of the chain tight, then check the left side for slack, the left size is were the tenisoner is fitted. Nigel

Is this what you are after ? picture is off a S13WB Nigel

why not just take the rocker cover off, and see if the chain has any tension on it (slack side - left hand side, looking from the front of the car looking at the engine), note: engine should not be running Nigel

http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm Cheap , works very well Nigel

Shouldn't the return line be bigger ?, Nigel

Can you ask some one to hold a WET rag in the end off your exhaust, it then should make the leak easier to hear. Nigel

it must be a bitch living in a imperial world with metric cars... Nigel

when I went from point to electronic dizzy, I found that the base plate were different, i'm not sure if this is your problem or not. Nigel

Have you ever watch mythbusters when they play with high speed "wind/air", they cut boxes of straws in half and direct the "wind/air" through them, something to do with reducing turbulence. Nigel

I'm sorry, I don't see the issue you guys are having paying for your fuel, where I live, Tasmania, Australia, I pay about $1.45 a litre, so that's about AU $5.48 a gallon (1 gallon = 3.78 litres i think), so that's about US$ 5.03546 Nigel

Exactly what I wanted, How high should I fit it ?, also I have a "front sump" in my 240K. (K not Z) I had all way though having the pipe protrude into the sump would give the returning oil (I believe this is foamy, from what I have read), a better chance of not building up on the side of the sump. I may be wrong.. Nigel

Hi, I'm after some picture showing me the oil return line in the sump (inside the sump), also I need the size of the fitting into the sump. I'm needing to modify my sump when I fit my turbo, since they don't exist (turbo L sumps) here in Oz, Thanks Nigel

E30 Head, It's of my 1977 Datsun 240K (or Skyline out side of Oz), running a L24 the head doesn't have the notches for the injectors, it has square exhaust ports. It was used with dished pistons (standard). I've included a picture of the cam, I noticed that there were no identification on the end of the cam Nigel

Have you thought about cutting the stud, so the its just long enough to hold the nut and washer ? Nigel

LOL Loved that movie..

Have you guys found this neat site ? http://home.iprimus.com.au/cobra30/twincam.htm Nigel

I thought some one may be interested in these.. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DHLA40-Dellortos-for-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280ZX-240K-R30_W0QQitemZ200185465235QQihZ010QQcategoryZ102336QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Nigel

Not to side track your post, but can you share on how you wired the led in ? Nigel

check this post out, (read the first page at least) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90063&highlight=AFM+adjustment+fuel maybe this is what they are doing, It does work.. Nigel

I've done a bit of searching, But I have not found the spec for the standard T3 turbo, I want this info so I can compare turbos, I've come across one from a volvo "Garrett T3 turbocharger (740/760). internal wastegate,0.48a/r turbine housing,0.42a/r compressor" and I want to see if it's a viable option, I have looked at buying some "datsun T3" turbo of ebay, but the cost of transport (to Tasmania) is more than the price of the turbo, so I need to get something locally. thanks for any help Nigel

Hi, Would a SKYLINE R33 GTST Turbo Series 2 be any good on a L24 / L28 ? I would only be looking for 7-15psi max I don't have any numbers to do a search with, thanks for any reply s. Nigel