Forces

The HP and torque varries with the year. This should answer that questions though. http://www.hotrodsforsale.com/hrfs/tech_tips/camaro_specs.htm

You might also check to casting number on the block. In the mid 80's (86 I think) the stock cam was toned way down in a lot, if not all, 305s. This was due, so I heard, to the Corvette and Camaro being too similar in power range, so the Camaro/Firebird/TransAm 305's were under cam'd. I don't know if that affected the 1500 trucks though. Might be worth looking into, see if a new cam is in order.

I'm running 2 1/2" exhaust, and will proabably do side exit. The headers are 1 5/8" primary and 2 1/2" collector. I know that the HP loss cannot be "calculated". Exhaust is not one of my strong topics, and I am not sure what the back pressure differences would be. The exhaust I am gonna be running (if I go with side exit) will probably have 2 90 degree bends, 4 45 degree bends and several small angle bends <30 degrees. Using 20" Magnaflow round mufflers.

I used to Hurst V-matic shifter for my TH350. It's practically a B&M mega shifter. I didn't use the mounting base on, I sunk the shifter into the tranny tunnel by about 3 1/2 inches. The second shifter you posted a link for, you probably wouldn't ba able to sink it down. That and it would probably be really REALLY tall. Hope that helps.

I went to my local exuast shop (Ed's Muffles) and saw some corvette tailpipes for $120 a peice. I think they were 2 1/2 exit 1.5x4." They didn't have the taper like the ones in the photo. Chromed though. Hope that helps. Check out these part#'s at www.summitracing.com you might find somthing you like. I did a search under "exhaust tips" GIB-500366 MPE-35175 MPE-35150

That's f***in' killer man.

Sorry if this a repaet, I did seach. What are the REAL HP losses if crush pipe tubing is used. I am trying to gather idaes for my dual exaust on my 383 stroker Z, but I am on a limited budget. If Mandrel makes THAT big of a difference I will go that route, but if it's only a sacrafice of 5 or 10 HP, it's not worth the money, IMO. I'm not looking to build a drag car, just a fun a fast car to play with when the weather permits. any help would be very much appericiated. *engine* 383 stroker w/ edlebrock air gap intake, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, RPM performer 66cc heads, 480/480 230/230 Crane cam, block hugger headers. Seann

I can't tell you wether or not the 4.3 water pump, pullies, brackets etc. etc. will fit, however, junk yards these days are absolutly full of 80's camaros, firebirds, 1500 trucks. Tons of cars out there had 305's, and all prts you mentioned would be fairly cheap at a bone yard. That is ofcourse, if you find that the v6 isn't compatible....but a super charged 4.3L in a Z would be pretty damn cool.

I finally started her up today. After all the set backs and BS I went through, it was all worth it. Still have a long way to go though. No interior, no exhaust, and no rear lights. among other things. The exhaust I think is gonna be an issue. I am in the middle now of relocating the oil filter so the d/s pipe doesn't get in the way of changing the oil. *EDIT* Any one have any advice on routing for dual exhaust?? I've seen plenty of cars on this sight with a single 3" pipe, but not many with dual. There is still a lot of work to be done, as you can see, but I'm making progress.

One thing you have to watch out for is the person behind the build. I bought a 280z that had a 400 sbc in it before. I bought it with out the engine. I am still finding things that he had done to that car that make my jaw drop. For example: 1. all wires were just twisted together and taped, no sodder, no heat shink tubing, and rarley even a simple butt-end connector. 2. He had cut out the frame support in front (where the radiator is) and used a thin peice of metal to bolt it back in. 3. He used the U joint from the stock datsun drive shaft, cut it off, and welded it straight onto the chevy drive shaft. All of these are big no no's, that I couldn't see when I purchased the car. Te list goes on and on. My point is watch out for shady sellers. Seann

The back pressure will change once exhaust is added into the mix. If I set the timing with zero back pressure, and then ad exhaust onto the enigine, would that manipulate the previously set timing?

Insurence companies will give you the smallest amount possible for a totaled VEH. That's how they keep afloat with all the sh!ty drivers out there.

I agree. As far as the first gen stock 350 goes...it's a dog. Why not ptich in the few hundred extra bucks and go with the stroker? Way more torque, more HP. As far as I know, the only down side is a redline at smaller RPMs due to the longer stroke its self. Best SBC in my opinion.

That diagram is amazing, must have taken a LOT of patients. good work.

You know what, after looking at the problem, and taking into account the information in this thread, I have come to two conclusions. 1: I am an idiot: The flex plate is backwards! 2: Even so, the Protorque still doesn't seem like it'll get the job done, given the short throw of the bendix. I REALLY don't want to take the transmission out again, that'd make 4 times, and the eneinge has never run. There's something wrong with that picture. Does anyone know if you can loosen the trans to engine bolts (without totally removing them), slide the TC back and get to the flex plate bolts, drop it down, flip it around and put it back up....without ever bringing the entire tanny down?

I already tried that, paper clip and all. I can see score marks on the starter gear where it hit the flexplate, and it did crank just fine a few times...for a few seconds, maybe less, before the starter gear popped out of the flexplate.

The JTR transmission crossmember will bolt up just fine to a TH 350, as long as you have the right trans mount.

While trying to start my engine for the first time, The starter wasn't engaging properly. It would crank over for a second or so, and then make this horrible sound, like a starter makes when you try to crank an engine that's already running. What was happening is the starter was partially engaged with the flywheel, and then would pop out and the teeth of the starter were grinding against the teeth on the flex plate. Sometimes it wouldn't engage at all and start griding immediadtly. I tried various amounts of shims, but nothing seemed to help. While under the car, I pulled the gear out as far as it would go on the starter and it doesn't seem like the bendix pushes out far enough. Anyone else heard of this? Is it possible that my flexplate is on backwards? BTW using a 168 tooth external balance flexplate and a Summit Racing Protorque gear reduction starter.

I'm just finishing up a 76 280, and the JTR manual pulled through for me. All the wiring should be pretty close to the same in yours. there is one diagram in that book (can't remember the page #) that has a diagram of the eninge and all the wiring nessesary. It was kind of a pain in the ass to follow through it all, but the info is there. As for the wires you don't need, it is easier to locate all the wiring that you DO need, and move forward from there. Hope that helps

That's what I've heard. I am less concerned about breaking a valve than other issues. It isn't THAT cold where I live during this time of year. On a bad day it gets down to 30 degrees F during the middle of the night. It is most often about 45 degrees during mid day. I am more concerned about noise and shooting flames all over the ground that are coming right off the collectors. So I'm thinkin I gonna put the final touches on her, and fire it up today....maybe tomorrow if I run out of time. That'd be a good way to kick off the New Year. Thanks for all you help guys. Seann

I figured that It wouldn't be a problem, I don't think I'll be driving it anywhere though....It's the end of the year and the cops are out for blood right now. Open headers are extremely loud, I know this. My neighbors know this. But will I be able to hear things like a knocking bottom end, chattering lifters/ rockers? (without stethescoping everything on the block and heads) Thanks for the help

*STARTING AN ENGINE WITHOUT EXHAUST* I am in a bit of a pinch here. My engine is all done, wiring done, ready to go. But I don't have any exhaust yet. It's just got some block huggers on it. I was planning on getting it running and towing it to an exhaust shop. The problem is that I want to start the engine, set the timing, Air fuel ratio, and make sure everything is in good shape before getting it towed any where. Is it Okay to start it w/o exhaust, or do you think it would be way too loud to hear if there was a tick or clack in the engine?? The guy at the exhaust shop told me I could start it up with headers and just drive it down there like that.....but, huh, I want a second opinion, that sounds kinda risky. Seann

This may be common knowledge for those of fus who read the JTR manual, but they mention using a 1/2 watt 15K ohm resistor on the tach wire to make it work when using an HEI distributor. It said something in the book about the tach needle just bouncing around all over the place with out it. Congrats on the start up though...I'll be starting mine for the first time in a few days. Seann

In my own opinion, You're not gonna get much for $2000....unless you really hit the jack pot. I would start looking around on Ebay, craigs list, the Nickle ad's for an engine (whcihever set up you end up choosing) thats got a few miles on it. Finding someone to build a turn key engine for 2 grand would be harder than building the engine yourself.

I've got a buddy, and that buddy ISN'T ME, that had a ratcheting box end explode and part of it got sucked down into the intake valve on cylindar 8. destroyed the valve, wrecked the piston....it wasn't pretty. I think It's still under the knife from that mess. The strange thing is that the rest of the wrench is nowhere to be found..... sounds like a sequel might be in the making.