grumpyvette

static compression means very little, the piston compresses nothing until the valves close. its the cam you use that will mostly determine the DYNAMIC COMPRESSION RATIO, thats important. IM RUNNING A 11:1 COMPRESSION 383 ON THE STREET NOW, the ignition timeing, engine ECU that controlls the injectours and cam timeing allow it to run just fine

here this might help http://www.kb-silvolite.com/speclear.htm http://home.earthlink.net/~rwaitas/_wsn/page4.html

Using 5.7" or 6" rods with the 3.75" stroke crank requires a piston that has shorter compression height than the 350 stock piston. true but thats a big plus, it makes the piston lighter in weight,the 6" rods have the advantages listed aboveand yes before someone else mentions it the lower oil scraper ring does go through the piston pin holes upper edge but properly done its not a problem

the 3.54 gears will be fine and give you a higher top speed but they will also cost you slightly if your useing slicks and drag racing

the longer the rods the better the trust angle on the crank, the lower the ring drag and the longer the dwell time after TDC giving the cylinder pressure a better chance to release its energy to the piston, allowing a better high rpm power curve provideing the cylinder heads breath well. look here look here http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf now look at the cylinders pressure curve, http://www.auto-ware.com/combust_bytes/pv.htm notice that almost all useable pressure is in the 25 degrees after TDC (right were the longer rods longer dwell time can use it) what youll find if you carefully look into it is that the longer 6" rod has a SLIGHT ADVANTAGE over the 5.7" rod for several reasons , one is that the 6" rod has a longer DWELL time , what this means is that it takes slightly longer in rotational degrees for the 6" rods piston to move away from TDC thus allowing a slightly more effective use of the cylinders presure peak, that together with the better rod angle produceing less cylinder to piston drag allows the 6" rod spinning the same rpms as a 5.7" rod to produce slightly more power in the over 5000rpm to 8000rpm range IF the cam timeing and compression ratio are the same and about 1%-2% more if the cam timeing and exhaust scavageing are set up to take advantage of the longer dwell time. now if your not sure what Im talking about look at it this way, at 7000rpm the piston changes direction 233 times a second and has a power stroke 116 times a second now that means youve got a power stroke every 58.3th of a second so the longer rods slower acceleration away from the tdc possition allows the longer rods piston to more effiecently use of the cylinder pressure peak. to put it bluntly the 6" rod has a slight but provable advantage, or to paraphraze SMOKEY YUNICK " use the longest rod you can economically fit in the engine block for the best power curve" heres a chart of a typical engine http://www.geocities.com/ljaya6390/analysis.htm btw for those of you that can,t convert MPa-to-PSI in your head http://epics.aps.anl.gov/asd/me/UnitConv.html btw if your still not able to get it 5.402 MPa=783 psi now thats in about an 8:1 cpr engine you can reach 1200psi in a 11:1-13:1 racing engine or a engine with the correctly tuned cam and intake/exhaust pulse timeing to efficiently fill the cylinders, thats where most of the better torque comes from! also notice that the pressure is only high for about 30 degs of the total 720 deg cycle and its only able to do usefull mechanical work for about 20 degs of the total 720 degs now if thats a typical smogger 350 chevy. a 4" bore has about 12.588 sq inchs of surface area x 783 psi /720 degs in the cycle x 20 degs of usefull work= 273 ft lbs of torque applied to the crankshaft every 90 degs, but kick the pressure to 1200psi in a 11:1 engine, and that same 350 makes 12.588sq inches x 1200psi /720degs in the cycle x 20 degs of usefull work= 419.7 ft lbs of torque, now alot depends on the dcr and volumetric efficiency but you should be getting the idea here by now!as long as the cylinders can fill completely you get a good fuel/air burn so you get a good cylinder pressure curve against the piston each time the cylinder fires,THE ENGINES TORQUE CURVE INCREASES WITH THE NUMBER OF EFFECTIVE POWER STROKES PER SECOND, at very low speeds theres not enough air velocity to mix the fuel correctly or produce a effective ram tuneing effect but as the rpms increase the cylinders fill very efficiently untill the rpms reach a point where the cylinders just don,t have the time necessary to flow enough air through the valves to fill the cylinders , remember a 5000rpm the intake valve out of 720 degs in each cycle opens for about 250degs of effective flow even with a hot roller cam, now thats only about 35% of the time and theres 41.6 intake strokes per second , thats only 1/60th of a second for air to flow into the cylinder, I found this graph that shows the relationship between V.E.(VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY) and AN ENGINEs torque CURVE http://www.n2performance.com/lectures/lect1/n2perf5.gif WHAT THAT GRAPH SHOWS RATHER EFFECTIVELY is that its your engines ability to fill the cylinders that increases your power and the more efficiently you do that the higher the rpm level you can acomplish that at the more power your engine makes, remember the formula for hp is (torque x rpm/ 5252=hp)so moveing the torque curve higher in the rpm range increases hp

for some reason my EMAIL has not been able to send for the last few weeks only receive niceguy678us you asked about a good combo that will get into the high 450-475 plus hp range heres a combo that will get you what you want with a manual trans, Id suggest 4.11 rear gears 406 chevy small block 10.5/1 cpr 6" rods 195cc AIR FLOW RESEARCH HEADS edelbrock super victor intake 750-800 cfm carb 1 3/4" full length headers cam, http://www.compcams.com/information/search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-433-8 now carbs are easier to work with than EFI for new guys so thats why its a carb setup you can get better mileage and similar power useing this holley system/intake if you chose EFI 550-650 1000 4-bbl square flange 36 lbs./hr. 91005201 91005301 http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/C950/FuelInj_pics/98-400.jpg http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/C950/C950MPFI/MPFIS.html#1 this fits under the hood better than the steath ram and tuned properly makes more than enough power to reach your goal plus its laptop tuneable, either way you go youll reach your goal of a killer street/racing engine that remains at least reasonably streetable but has great power

Mike C is correct, ideally you have two engines,(or at least short blocks) one in the car and one on the engine stand getting the full treatment, then come swap day its only a matter of one weekend to swap the engines, this also has the huge advantage of you always can swap back and forth and be driveing if the engine in the car has problems. this also has the big advantage that your driveing while the machine shop plays for weeks at a time with your engine that they promised would be ready six weekends ago!

full length headers in nearly every case produce a higher and wider torque curve, yeah I know they cost more and are harder to get fitted in some cases but thats just the way it is, sorry BTW don,t rush things, settling for less than ideal parts or machine work almost ALWAYS causes regrets on the part of those that try to speed things along rather than get them done correctly, (I know I have done it in the past and surely wish I had done the work differantly on my own car in years past)

ok lets look at an example,use this dyno info and figure what intake and gearing will be best, the tools are below.(hint)if the engine ever sees below 4500rpm after first gear or above 7500rpm your doing something wrong http://www.chevymania.com/dyno/dyno.cfm?num=10 http://www.bracketracer.net/carmath/dynochart.asp http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm

intakes are fairly simple to pick if you spend most of the time your useing the engine at or below 3500rpm and the cam in that engine has less than 230 intake degs @.050 lift your better off 90% of the time with a dual plane intake, if your engine spends most of its time spinning 3500-7500rpm and the cam in your engine has 230 intake degs. @.050 durration the single plane intake will work better most of the time! the further from the cut point you get the better that intake style will work.

read this first heres some GENERAL TIPS on engine planing things to keep in mind! READ THIS http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=868 HERES A BUNCH OF SBC COMBOS http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html (1) your normally limited to makeing about 1.25hp per cubic inch of displacement unless expensive high rpm parts are used or power adders like nitrous are used the larger the engines displacement ,the easier it will be to make any power level, starting with a 283 or a 307 puts your at a distinct DISADVANTAGE compared to a 350 or 383, 400 size engine (2)hp= torque x rpm/5252 so..... 400 ft lbs at 3000rpm=228hp 400 ft lbs at 5000rpm=380hp get the IDEA, the higher in the rpm range you make max torque the higher your hp will average! (3)looking at cylinder head flow numbers ((.257 x cfm at max cam lift x number of cylinders = hp POTENTIAL)) so...you can normally make ABOUT a MAX POTENTIAL HP of 411hp with heads that flow 200cfm 514hp with heads that flow 250cfm 617hp with heads that flow 300 cfm (4)all parts in an engine MUST be matched as to the ONE rpm range that your trying to make max hp in..... if you mis-match the rpm range of the parts the results will be far lower than the lowest rpm level of the least effective parts! (5) by far the most comon mistake is buying DEALS on parts that don,t match the rest of the parts in yout engines rpm range or not matching all the parts in the engine to a planned rpm range (6) the cross over point between useing a dual plane intake and a single plane intake is approximately reached at 3500 rpm and 230 deg@.050 cam durration or put another way if your engine spends almost all its time below 3500rpm and your cam has less than 230@.050 durration a dual plane intake will work best, if you spend almost all your time with the engine spinning OVER 3500rpm and your cam has more than 230@.050 durration a single plane intake will be best. this of course assumes your smart enough to know that the cam durration must also MATCH the ENGINES intended RPM RANGE and youve matched all the parts to the cams rpm range(the cam is the brains of the engine and determines what rpm range all the other parts should match, so FIRST PICK the rpm range/hp goal, pick heads that flow enough air to meet that goal, pick a cam that matches that goal and pick all the other parts to match the heads and cam here this will give you new guys some basic info cams http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (theres 10 lessons ., read them all) http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft1.htm intakes http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm compression, http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm oil http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html pistons/rods http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us20114.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://www.engr.rutgers.edu/~llongo/8K.html headers http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6992/vizard.html http://www.ssheaders.com/header.htm hp/torque http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=868 basics An internal combustion engine burns a mixture of fuel and air in an enclosed space. This space is formed by a cylinder that's sealed at one end and a piston that slides in and out of that cylinder. Two or more valves allow the fuel and air to enter the cylinder and for the gases that form when the fuel and air burn to leave the cylinder. As the piston slides in and out of the cylinder, the enclosed space within the cylinder changes its volume. The engine uses this changing volume to extract energy from the burning mixture. The process begins when the engine pulls the piston out of the cylinder, expanding the enclosed space and allowing fuel and air to flow into that space through a valve. This motion is called the intake stroke. Next, the engine squeezes the fuel and air mixture tightly together by pushing the piston into the cylinder in what is called the compression stroke. At the end of the compression stroke, with the fuel and air mixture squeezed as tightly as possible, the spark plug at the sealed end of the cylinder fires and ignites the mixture. The hot burning fuel has an enormous pressure and it pushes the piston strongly out of the cylinder. This power stroke is what provides power to the car that's attached to the engine. Finally, the engine squeezes the burned gas out of the cylinder through another valve in the exhaust stroke. These four strokes repeat over and over again to power the car. To provide more steady power, and to make sure that there is enough energy to carry the piston through the intake, compression, and exhaust strokes, most internal combustion engines have at least four cylinders (and pistons). That way, there is always at least one cylinder going through the power stroke and it can carry the other cylinders through the non-power strokes. http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm short answer is pick a cam that gives you between 8:1-8.5:1 Dynamic compression and is designed to work in the rpm range the heads and intake you pick matches if you want a list of parts that will work well together Ill give you one but please understand if you sub even one part with something else it may not work as well, think of it this way, say youve never made cookies and I give you a recipe/formula that says use 2 1/3 cup flour 1/2 cups white sugar 16 oz c-chips 3 eggs 1/2 cup shortning 1 1/4 cup brown sugar 1 tsp baking soda 1/2 cup butter 1 tsp vannilla 3/4 cup walnuts 1/2 cup raisins (good cookies btw) and you follow directions except that your out of white sugar so you use 1/2 cup of salt, to you the salt looks the same,mixes the same,costs about the same, and the cookies look the same when your done, want to bet the RESULTS ARE FAR FROM THE SAME!!!!! well its the same deal with engines , I don,t care how close it looks or costs, if its not a perfectly matched part the RESULTS WILL DIFFER

you want links to suppliers,(heres a few thousand to get you started) http://www.car-stuff.com/carlinks/partsold.htm http://www.performancemarket.com/oilpan.htm http://home.isoa.net/~mharrisj/race.html http://www.racecar.co.uk/engine.html http://www.roadcatalogs.com/ http://listoflists.com/Top/Sports/Auto_Racing/Business_-_Racing_Related http://www.racingseat.com/links/parts.htm http://store.yahoo.com/gofast/ http://roadsters.com/engines/ http://www.quartermasterusa.com/racing.html http://www.autoguide.net/partsandservices/aftermarket9.shtml http://www.chevyworld.net/links.html http://1951chevy.homestead.com/ChevyResources.html

WELL???? did you get the rear main cap, did it fix your problem???????

http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/343hp305.html if you used pocket ported vortec heads and a matching intake, like the Super Victor for Vortec Heads #2913 you would be close to 380hp-400hp with this build, add this cam crane 114681 ftsld.cam and youll be at about 410hp-415hp or want to get crazy? swap a crane #113841 solid lifter nitrous designcam in and add a 150hp nitrous plate and 540hp out of a 305 chevy is possiable

and make damn sure that the fuel air mix stays on the rich side of 13.5:1 , as that will keep you from melting pistons or building enough heat to lock the rings in the bore because if the rings lock the top of the piston breaks off.

KraZeeZX its been done before,several years ago infact, (I saw pictures of that swap several years ago on another site, but no real details on what was involved were given)but Tim240Z is correct, you will be part of a very 'exclusive club' of V8 300Z cars. youll have a very unique car in the sence that theres probably only a dozen or so like it in the world at this point. do the swap, no two custom car/engine swaps turn out the same and youll most likely be the only one in your state with a similar car.

its the second of the 7 engine builds near the bottom of the page

the tight ring package refered to is because that 6" rods while a very good choice require the lower oil ring scraper ring to pass through the upper area of the piston pin hole. heres some more 383 info. http://www.bracketmasters.com/small_block_stroker_383_cu.htm http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m1185/n8_v32/21148174/p1/ar ticle.jhtml?term=chevy+%2Bcombustion+%2Bchamber+design http://www.greenbaypartsworld.com/g383a.htm http://www.speedomotive.com/chevy_383_street.htm http://www.speedomotive.com/chevy_383_sportsman.htm http://www.dumpit.org/grimreaper/reaper_engine.htm http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/diabolical383.html http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page32.htm http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page33.htm http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page05.htm

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=49738& viewtype=text http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=49279& viewtype=text http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=18459

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=48538&

when you get the rear cap let me know if it fixes the problem,? GRUMPYVETTE

the ZL1 is an all aluminum 427 bbc engine that was available first around 1968-70, it is now still available but in a differant form, while the original had large rectangle port heads, a radical cam and 12.5 cpr and made about 575hp the new version is stretched to 454cid, and was given oval port heads, only 10.2 cpr and a much milder cam, to increase torque in the mid range but the additional displacement plus the much smaller ports have the effect of boosting torque but killing high rpm hp. the new version makes about 510hp, comes with fuel injection not a 850 carb like the original and costs about $20,000 look up a copy of the nov. 2002 HOT ROD MAG. they have a write up on it! this is a much better deal for about the same money http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Sneak/Previews.html the 12:1 cpr 700hp version of this engine is basically an iron block large displacement version of the original ZL1 concept

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- yes it increases the oil flow onto the cam lobes and lifter base contact area. yes it cuts a grouve in the lower lifter bore from the oil feed hole to the bottom of the lifter bore (it cuts about a .040 wide and .007-10 thousands deep grouve)you must do this on a block before cleaning it the final time and before installing the cam bearings for best results because it scrapes small metal fileings from the lifter bores you don,t want in your engine. you insert the handle from the top of the lifter bore, hook onto the cutter that you insert from inside the block from the cam tunnel and pull the cutter up and slide it down in the same spot several times, the cutter scrapes the grouve, you must be carefull to cut the grouve on the side of the lifter bore that sprays oil onto the cam lobe as it starts to spin under the lifter not after it passes the lifter, look at diagram closely and figure out how your cam turns http://www.compcams.com/catalog/335.html this has little effect on oil pressure because the oil volume is low compared to the total amount moveing through the engine but its one reason I always use a high volume oil pump. btw IT COSTS ABOUT $140 IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY well worth the price because of thev lower cam failure rates the extra oil flow promotes. yes both solid and hydrolic cams benefit, yes it slightly increases the oil falling on the spinning rotateing assembly but thats what a milodon style windage screen is designed to handle by quickly returning that oil to the sump. now if you think about it drilling a small hole in the lifter base to feed oil to the contact areas is also a good idea (they allready make those)your refering to both crower and comp cams lifters(I use both in addition to the grouves)look, under lifters pg 107 http://www.crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml now some people say grinding a 3 thousands flat spot on the lower lifter circumferance helps,true but that grouve idea helps durring about 1/4 of the lifters rotation, but since the lifter spins in its bore about 270 degrees of the lifters spin adds oil flow the crank must handle as windage yet throws little or no oil on the lobe surface the grouve ALWAYS sprays oil directly on the lobes contact point, the lifters with the lazer bored oil feed hole are a great idea that works but only flow a small amount of oil and can get plugged up where the lifter grouve tends to self clean due to the lifters constant movement

postage is my treat, just hope it works out for you. if you just need to spend a few buck$ take the wife out and buy her something, you never know it might make her feel better and as we all know "when mamas happy things around the house go smoother"

ZR8ED even if it does nothing it looks kinda neat