grumpyvette

pparaska heres a good start on making your own list, BE VERY SURE TO FOLLOW THE SUB-LINKS on each site. http://www.projectbasketcase.com/index.asp http://www.racecareng.com/catalog/ http://home.achilles.net/~cmacd/auto.html http://www.chevyworld.net/links.html http://www.angelfire.com/ct/pontiacmuscle/link.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/parts.htm http://www.quartermasterusa.com/racing.html http://carnut.com/vendors/d.html http://www.racesearch.com/ http://www.autoguide.net/partsandservices/aftermarket9.shtml http://roadsters.com/engines/ http://fullthrottleraceparts.com/links.htm http://1951chevy.homestead.com/ChevyResources.html http://www.car-stuff.com/carlinks/partsold.htm http://clubs.hemmings.com/licoa/comlinks.htm http://www.performancemarket.com/oilpan.htm http://www.tsinternet.com/racersguide/links/partmanu.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/parts.htm

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- buy these FIVE books, it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS btw HONDAS ARE HARDER TO WORK ON THAN CHEVY V-8s and youll need a good engine stand be smart and use the CORRECT TOOLS FOR THE JOB! http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin...76&prmenbr=6970 and yes the shipping cost is about $70 so try to see if theres a local store "btw youll need engine mounting bolts, grade 5 will work with a few washers installed on the bolts under the bolt head but 4" or 3 1/2" long 3/8" NC grade 8 bolts are what you should use,(4" will require a few spacer washers, 3.5" can only use 1 washer and still be long enough) remember the differance in cost between grade 8 and grade 5 is less than $2 and the grade 8 is several thousand pounds of shear strength stronger, your life could depend on that $2 worth of extra strength (its your choice but my butts worth $2 extra, I think youll be inclined to spend the $2 more if you think it over) BTW a little trick is to slide a washer onto the bolt before inserting it in the mounting head and slip a 2" piece of 3/8" fuel line over the bolt from the front on each bolt in the tool head after the bolts inserted , this tends to keep them from fallin out when an engine is not installed on the stand, which is how those grade 8 bolts get lost!

http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/010333.html http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/ http://zdriver.com/members/scottiegnz/scotties240zt.htm http://www.skulte.com/turbo.html http://www.victorylibrary.com/wwwboard/index2.html look this over for Ideas

if it comes with everthing in the engine compartment that hooks to the engind, all wireing and the ecu that $3880 is a good deal, if they leave off parts it may not be, and while your talking to them ask them how much for the trans and rear suspension, (you might get a super combo deal)

stealth ram, 501hp492tq plus -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- get a copy of the AUGUST CHEVY HIGH PERFORMANCE magazine (it says NITROUS POWER IN BIG YELLOW LETTERS ON THE COVER) on page 86 starts an article that has a STEALTH RAM that on a 406 chevy that makes 492tq/501hp non-nitrous and 726 tq/670hp with a 175 nitrous kit and the cam is not ideal for the max power production either, they mention that with several changes to make everything match the intended use and with a 300hp shot of nitrous they felt that 785hp.800tq plus was within easy reach but since they never intended to set the test mule engine up for that level of heat and power they did not try it at that time (ring gaps were too tight for possiable heat generated was one reason given) any way you look at this what there saying is that a properly set up steath ram is a big performance boost over a stock TPI system

8.9 gigs and growing on car stuff ,6.3 gigs on elk hunting (my other addiction)

Tomahawk Z bolt or weld a 5 foot long 2"x 4" box steel tube to the outer center support leg so that 30 inches of the box steel brace extends perpendicular to the center brace to each side forming a (T)and install caster wheels rated at about 600lbs on each of the ends, this should cost you less than $40.00 MAX an more likely about $20.00 and will make the stand stable, most of my friends have allready done that if they had one of the 3 point engine stands, since your health could depend on that modification I would highly advise you don,t put off doing it till (someday)this will form sort of a badly written (H) shape on the base from its present (T) shape but give GREATLY ENHANCED STABILITY to the stand, this picture will give you the idea http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=19885&prmenbr=69 70 but the commercial version shown has WAY too short of a brace(T) added to do much good

this question always comes up so heres the question and answer will a high volume pump ,pump the pan dry? and for those of you that think a high volume pump will pump the pan dry at high rpms lets discuss the possiablitys the oil pump can only pump as much oil as the engine clearances allow at the max pressure that the oil pump bye -pass circuit will allow, and no more. for your idea to be correct (which it could be under some conditions)the oil flow through the engine clearances would need to be so great that the pump turning at 3500rpm,7000rpm engine speed(remember the pump spins 1/2 the speed the crank does)and most likely pumping at max pressure could lower the oil level to the point that the pick-up becomes uncovered or a vortex as you call it forms and the pump starts sucking air. now under hard acceleration it is very possiable for the pickup on ANY oil pump to to become uncovered in a oil pan that has less than 5qt capacity and with no oil control baffles as the oil rushes to the rear of the oil pan if the pick-up is located in mid pan or under hard brakeing if the pick-up is located at the rear of the pan on a non- oil baffle controlled pan. I will grant you that it is possiable for ANY oil pump to pump a good amount of oil into the lifter gallery at high rpms IF THE OIL RETURN PASSAGES IN THE HEADS AND LIFTER GALLERY ARE BLOCKED, preventing its normal return to the crankcase , but running a high volume oil pump will have little or nothing to do with how much oil is in the pan if the engines drain back holes are clear and your useing a milodon style windage screen. I have several times had that same complaint about lack of oil pressure under acceleration but it is caused by a non-baffled pan or the pickup mounted so close to the pan bottom that the pump cant get a good intake flow, if you carefully check youll find that on a dyno runs it seldom happens,because the oil is constantly removed by the windage screen is returned to the sump, most of the oil pumped into the system exits at the rod and main bearing clearances or at the cam bearings and from the lifter bores lower ends, its not the constant oil flow or lack of oil into the rocker arms that has the big effect on total oil flow as SMOKEY YUNICKS PHOTOGRAPIC RESEARCH PROVED YEARS AGO,its the oil flowing from the bearings and lifters and that oil flow is quickly returned to the sump by a windage screen scrapeing it off the spinning crank and rods as the spinning assembly passes over the windage screen. in effect most of the oil in an engine works like your timeing chain in that it constantly cycles top to botton and back never getting higher than the cam bearing lifter area. now what does quite frequently happen is that the guys installing a high volume oil pump just swap out the standard pump, reinstall the stock or simular pick-up and bolt on the pan with the pick-up in the stock possition on the oil pump. the stock pick-up is mounted about 3/8" off the pan bottom,the high volume pump is normally equiped with impeller gears about .3 inches longer than stock, the high volume pump body is that much lower in the pan, resultting in the pick-up being only about 1/8" from the pan bottom. the result is that on a normal chevy oil pump pick-up this leave a space of about 1/8" x 2.5" for oil to flow into the pump. at low rpms this works but as the rpms climb the pick-up that can,t get any oil to pump cavitates as it spins and fails to pump oil, result oil pressure drops untill rpms are lowered no matter how much oil is over the pick-up. simply checking to make sure that anout 1/2" of space is under the pick-up when the pan is installed cures that problem (a simple trick is to weld a 1/2" thick nut to the oil pump Pick-up base and test fitting the pan BEFORE WELDING THE PICK-UP TO THE PUMP BODY) what it comes down too in every case that Ive looked into so far is a improperly positioned pick-up or a non- baffled oil pan without a windage screen or less than 5 qts of oil in the system, not a problem of all available oil being pumped into the lifter gallery and valve covers like some people would like you to think. the MELLING COMPANY HAS THIS TO SAY Most of the stock automobile engines are designed to operate from idle to 4500 RPM. The original volume and pressure oil pump will work fine in this type of application. As the demands on the engine increase so does the demands on the oiling system and pump. The oil pump's most difficult task is to supply oil to the connecting rod bearing that is the farthest from the pump. To reach this bearing, the oil travels from three to four feet, turns numerous square corners thru small holes in the crankshaft to the rod bearing. The rod bearing doesn't help matters. It is traveling in a circle which means centrifugal force is pulling the oil out of the bearing. A 350 Chevy has a 3.4811 stroke and a 2.111 rod journal. The outer edge of the journal travels 17.5311 every revolution. At 1000 RPM, the outer edge is traveling at 16.6 MPH and 74.7 MPH at 4500 RPM. If we take this engine to 6500 the outer edge is up to 107.9 and at 8500 it is 141.1 MPH. Now imagine driving a car around a curve at those speeds and you can feel the centrifugal force. Now imagine doing it around a circle with a 5.581, diameter. The size of the gears or rotors determines the amount of oil a pump can move at any given RPM. Resistance to this movement creates the pressure. If a pump is not large enough to meet the demands of the engine, there will not be any pressure. Or if the demands of the engine are increased beyond the pumps capabilities there will be a loss of oil pressure. This is where high volume pumps come in; they take care of any increased demands of the engine. Increases in the engine's oil requirements come from higher RPM, being able to rev faster, increased bearing clearances, remote oil cooler and/or filter and any combination of these. Most high volume pumps also have a increase in pressure to help get the oil out to the bearings faster. That is what a high volume pump will do. Now let Is consider what it will not do. It will not replace a rebuild in a worn-out engine. It may increase pressure but the engine is still worn-out. It will not pump the oil pan dry. Both solid and hydraulic lifters have metering valves to limit flow of the oil to the top of the engine. If a pan is pumped dry, it is because the holes that drain oil back to the pan are plugged. If the high volume pump is also higher pressure, there will be a slight increase in flow to the top. It will not wear out distributor gears. The load on the gear is directly related to the resistance to flow. Oil pressure is the measure of resistance to flow. The Ford 427 FE "side oiler" used a pump with relief valve set at 125 psi and it used a standard distributor gear. Distributor gear failures are usually caused by a worn gear on a new cam gear and/or worn bearings allowing misalignment. It will not cause foaming of the oil. With any oil pump, the excess oil not needed by the engine is recirculated within the pump. Any additional foaming is usually created by revving the engine higher. The oil thrown from the rod bearings is going faster and causes the foaming. This is why high performance engines use a windage tray. It will not cause spark scatter. Because of the pump pressure there is a load on the distributor gear. The number of teeth on the oil pump gears determine the number of impulses per revolution of the pump. In a SB Chevy there are seven teeth on each gear giving 14 impulses per revolution. At 6000 RPM the oil pump is turning 3000 RPM or 50 revolutions per second. To have an effect on the distributor, these impulses would have to vibrate the distributor gear through an intermediate shaft that has loose connections at both ends. Spark scatter is usually caused by weak springs in the points or dust inside the distributor cap. High volume pumps can be a big advantage if used where needed. If installed in an engine that does not need the additional volume, they will not create a problem. The additional flow will be recirculated within the pump.

if you want the new engine to last longer please follow these suggestions, if you try and save money and get cheap the same thing is likely to happen again. take it totally apart and have a machine shop clean and inspect the block and flush all the oil passages. have the rods and all the pistons carefully inspected (and personally Id throw the pistons away and get new ones if those valve impact points look at all deep) you will need new rings and bearings you should replace the cam and lifters they took a hell of a beating even if the dammage is not obvious and you must replace the timeing gear set it possitively was dammaged even if it appears ok get the head your thinking of reuseing magnaflux tested and checked for dammage now the most likely CAUSE is that you had the cam timed/installed wrong or you did not check ALL YOUR CLEARANCES. if the cams lift was over about .450 or the durration over about 220@.050 lift than you certainly need to check ALL YOUR CLEARANCES. if you don,t know how to do that get a copy of these books, -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- buy these FIVE books, it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS read them! then after you understand everything and only after you have aworking knowledge of the correct procedures , you can re-assemble the engine

labrat if your building an engine correctly youll need to flip it over dozens of times just checking clearances then dozeds of times more as its assembled, and durring all that time youll need to keep it perfectly clean. while build an enine without a engine stand is possiable its so much easyier with a good engine stand that takeing a chance on hurting yourself or getting dirt in the engine is at least to those of us that build engines on a continueous basis, somewhat foolish. If you intend on doing this as more than a one time deal , youll be way better off getting a good stand and correct tools

Lone moding the timeing cover for an oil return is fine IF you make very sure the fittings type and location does not cause clearance problems with the cam drive system you use Les Heath I used to run a road racing vette thousands of miles in between rebuilds with no excesive or far that matter out of the ordinary cam or lifter wear, I have built and used dozens of engines over the years useing cam , gear drive systems with ZERO problems, my guess is that the guys having those problems are useing the gear drive as an excuse for wear caused by useing the wrong clearances or valve spring pressures, heres what SMOKEY YUNICK had to say about it((page90 ,SMOKEY YUNICKS POWER SECRETS) "I SEE NO REASON TO EVER USE A CHAIN TO DRIVE THE CAMSHAFT IN A RACING ENGINE!.......ANYONE WHO EVER WATCHED A CHAIN DRIVE WHILE THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING AT 7500RPM WOULDN,T THINK THE CHAIN COULD LAST EVEN FIVE MINUTES IN A REAL RACING ENGINE.....IM NOT ABOUT TO SAY THAT A GEAR DRIVE IS COMPLETELY BULLETPROOF , BUT I,M DEAD CERTAIN THAT ITS FOOLISH TO DRIVE THE CAMSHAFT IN AN ENDURANCE ENGINE WITH A CHAIN!" BTW use of this tool goes a long way toward preventing cam and lifter wear problems, http://www.compcams.com/catalog/335.html I use it on my engines and it works! while were talking about oil systems , I use a high volume pump or a standard volume big block pump, read this, -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.melling.com/highvol.html http://www.melling.com/engoil.html ok lets look at a few things, pressure is the result of a resistance to flow , no matter how much oil is put out by the oil pump there is almost no pressure unless there is a resistance to that oil flow and the main resistance is from oil trying to flow through the bearing surface clearances and once the pumps output pressure exceeds the engines ability to accept the oilflow at the max pressure the oil return system/bypass spring allows the oil circles back through the pump ,now the amount of oil flow necessary to reach the furthest parts in the engine from the oil pump does not go up in direct relation to rpm, but it instead increases with rpm at a steadly increaseing rate that increases faster than the engine rpm due to centrifugal force draining the oil from the rods as they swing faster and faster since energy increases with the square of the velocity the rate of oil use goes up quite a bit faster due to the greatly increased (G-FORCES) pulling oil from the rod bearings over 5000rpm going to 8000rpm than the rate of oil flow increases from 2000 rpm to 5000rpm (the same 3000rpm spread) and remember the often stated (10 lbs per 1000rpm)needs to be measured at the furthest rod and main bearing from the pump not at the pump itself, next lets look at the oil flow itself, you have about 5-6 quarts in an average small block now the valve covers never get and hold more than about 1/3 to 2/3 of a quart each even at 8000 rpm (high speed photography by SMOKEY YUNICK doing stock car engine research with clear plastic valve covers prove that from what Ive read) theres about 1 quart in the lifter gallery at max and theres about 1 quart in the filter and in the oil passages in the block, that leaves at least 2 quarts in the pan at all times and for those that want to tell me about oil wrapped around the crankshaft at high rpms try squirting oil on a spinning surface doing even 2000rpm (yes thats right its thrown off as fast as it hits by centrifugal force, yes its possiable for the crankshaft WITHOUT A WINDAGE SCREEN to keep acting like a propeler and pulling oil around with it in the crank case but thats what the wrap around style milodon type windage screen is designed to stop)the only way to run out of oil is to start with less than 4 quarts or to plug the oil return passages in the lifter gallery with sludge or gasket material! now add a good windage tray and a crank scrapper and almost all the oil is returned to the sump as it enters the area of the spinning crankshaft! forming a more or less endless supply to the oil pump, BTW almost all pro teams now use DRY SUMP SYSTEMS WITH POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT GERATOR PUMPS that are 3,4,or 5 stage pumps each section of which has more voluum than a standard voluum oil pump because its been found total oil control is necessary at high rpms to keep bearings cool and lubed NOW I POSTED THIS BEFORE BUT IT NEEDs REPEATING ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point,that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate increases faster as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change but the bleed off rate does that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine. 16 lifter to push rod points 16 pushrod to rocker arm points 32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends 10 main bearing edges 9 cam bearing edges 16 rod bearing edges 2 distributor shaft leaks 1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.) so the more oil voluum the better.chevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (no) above that level the extra oil will definitely help possiable deficient oil flow and bearing cooling and a simple increase in pressure does not provide a big increase in voluum that may be necessary to keep that oil film in the correct places at the correct voluum at all times.the stock system was designed for a 265cid engine in a passenger car turning a max of about 6000 rpm but only haveing the stress of under 300hp transmitted to the bearings, Im sure the orriginal designers never thought that the sbc or bbc would someday be asked to on occasion hold up to 450-800hp and 6000-8000 rpm.nore did they forsee valvesprings that placed 500lbs and up loads on the lifters and the use of over 9 to 1 compression ratios in the original design so the oil voluums and pressures necessary to cool those valve springs and bearings at those stress levels were never taken into account for that either. the most Ive personally ever seen is a differance 4 hp on a dyno pull , from a standard to a high volume pump, the oil pump turns at 1/2 the speed of the engine, you can hook up a 1hp 3/4" chuck masonary drill to a oil pump primer tool and spin it too over 1600rpm in an engine thats not even turning over, so you know the engine is not leaking oil like it would if it was spinning, I seriously doubt that an oil pump uses as much hp as most people think it does to drive it and I would rather get the additional oil flow too the bearings and additional cooling that extra oil flow provides too the bearings and under side of the pistons than risk haveing the bearings run low on oil at 6500 rpm any day myself even if it did require a differance of 10 hp,if you have a copy of smokey yunicks POWER SECRETS TURN TO PAGE 110-111 SMOKEY SWEARS THAT THE z28 PUMP is the way to go but look closely at page 111 what hes useing is a 5 bolt BIG BLOCK PUMPin the picture. now I run standard volume BIG BLOCK pumps on most of the small block engines I build , and Ive never seen it cause a problem, now Im sure not saying you need a big block standard volume pump or for that matter a high volume small block pump but I have yet to loose a bearing and I normally do a few mods to an engine that requires a higher than stock oil flow volume , such as I drill the forward oil plug behind the cam gear with a .040 hole so it sprays oil on the back of the gear but thats because I use gear cam drives ans I grouve the lifter bores for extra oil flow to the cam lobes, look here, http://www.compcams.com/catalog/335.html and I also run a 7-9 quart oil pan so the extra volume is useful, now keep in mind some people will tell you that a high volume pump will just suck your oil pan dry, thats B.S. lifters have control valves that limit the amount of oil that the lifter can allow up into the push rod and oil flow is limited to the amount that can flow through your engines clearances, all additional oil flow is recycled through the bypass port in the pump itself. yes you do get a little more oil to the top end to cool the vave springs and lube the rockers if you use a high volume pump but the amount is noware near as much extra as some people would have you believe it is, even a 7000rpm the valve covers never get even 1/2 full thats been proven with high speed photography also keep in mind that the small block chevy oil system is well designed and is not a weak link in the engine and even the standard stock un-modifyed system will handle about 400hp just fine

Ive run the same jackson gear drive in several sbc engines for 8 years now, its in as good of shape now as it was the day I installed it. that said be aware that some efi engines engine control computer sensors pick up the gear noise even from quite style gears and interpit the noise as detonation and retard the ignition timeing untill the engine warms up in some cases and the gears get really well oil soaked,so many people run chain drives on efi engines btw its standard procedure to drill a very small hole (about .035-.040 thousands dia)in your center oil gallery plug to spray oil on the rear of the gear durring operation and that extra oil leak in the lube system works better if you use a high volume oil pump. theres nothing wrong with chain drives but they do require changing on a high performace engine every once in awhile depending on how hard you run the engine if you want peak performance, most race teams I know just use a new chain drive for every tear down (probably every 500 miles on a drag car or every 1000-5000 miles on a stock car or at the yearly rebuild or use gear drives. keep in mind that thousands of street cars go over 100,000 miles with chain drives but they also don,t know or even care that their timeing is jumping back and forth several degrees on the shift points as the engine loads change or that they may be down a few hp because of it either

heres some info on engine size and weights you might be able to use http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7062/engine.html here this may help http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html ENGINE DIMENSIONS all lengths are in inches, weights are in pounds C.I.D. WIDTH LENGTH HEIGHT WEIGHT CHEV V6 200 26 24 27 400 lbs V8 262,265 283,302 305,307 327,350 400 26W 28L 27H 575lbs 348,409 28 1/2 34 1/2 32 685lbs 396,402 427,454 28 30 1/2 29 685lbs FORD V8 221,260 289,302 351W 24W 29L 27 1/2H 460lbs 232,292 312 28W 29L 29H 625lbs 302 Boss 24W 29L 29H 500lbs 351C 24 1/2W 29L 28 1/2H 550lbs 332,352 390,406 410,427 27W 32L 29H 625lbs 427 sohc 32W 34L 29H 680lbs 429,460 27W 30L 29H 720lbs 429 Boss 28W 34L 30H 635lbs MOPAR V8 273,318 340,360 24W 29L 27H 550lbs 361,383 340,413 426,440 29 1/2W 30L 29H 670lbs 331,354 392 29W 31L 31H 765lbs 426 29W 32L 32H 690lbs BUICK V6 198,225 231 26W 23L 28 1/2H 400lbs 231 Turbo 30W 23L 30H 430lbs 215 Aluminum 26W 28L 27H 320lbs 350 28 1/2W 30 1/2L 28 1/2H 450lbs 401,425 Nailhead 28W 33 1/2L 29H 650lbs 400,430 455 28W 30L 30H 600lbs CADILLAC V8 472,500 28 30 1/2 28 600lbs OLDS V6 198,225 231 26W 23L 28 1/2H 400lbs V8 215 Aluminum 26W 28L 27H 320lbs 260,330 350,403 26W 28L 27 1/2H 560lbs 303,394 30W 32L 29H 700lbs 400,425 456 26 1/2W 31L 29H 620lbs PONTIAC V8 215 Aluminum 26 28 27 320lbs 301 25W 32L 30H 475lbs 326,350 389,400 428,455 25 1/2W 32L 30H 640lbs --HEIGHT IS FROM AIR CLEANER TO PAN-- --LENGTH INCLUDES WATER PUMP-- --WIDTH INCLUDES HEADS, VALVE COVERS,MANIFOLDS--

now admitedly this will take extra work but a 472-500cid caddy engine from a 1970-75 caddy will produce tons of torque, is an easy 375hp/500ft lbs and is only 50-70 lbs heavier than a sbc and only a few inches larger,(smaller and lighter than a bbc engine) it has the distributor in the front and would make an ideal swap in that those engines can be purchased for under $300 most places, rebuilt for under $1000 to almost 400hp and are exceptionally strong performers for the money. on the down side the engines are only meant to run automatic transmissions and your on your own for swap info but still Id do it in a split second if I could find a (Z) body in perfect shape cheap (HEY GUY JUST AN OPTION YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT) plus youll have an engine swap thats rather unique and be able to smoke the tires in any gear!

BAlford the guys are correct, if that motor was set up ideally for supercharger use the static compression was down around 7.5:1 and the cam dropped that to a dynamic compression ratio of about 5.7:1 its no wonder the non-supercharged performance leaves something to be desired, install a 383 rotateing assembly with a set of 10:1 compression pistons,5.7" or ideally 6" rods and the longer 3.75" stroke crank, install a #114142 hydrolic lifter cam and pocket port the heads and you won,t believe its the same car!!!! this makes a good daily driver combo with lots of mid range power but without any daily driver problems (do a search on 383 rotateing assemblys, or 383, or rotateing assembly)

you will probably see a small gain in high rpm hp with a vacume secondary 750cfm carb but unless your willing to do other mods like a new cam,super victor intake and lower rear gears I would not bother, youll likely spend several hundred dollars for a 5-8 hp gain in only the high rpm range and a slight loss of streetablity with the change of just the carb. I personally would not do it on a daily driver. if you want to get an idea of what you might gain , install a 2" open center carb spacer under your present carb (take the hood off just for testing if it wont fit) youll get a good idea of what the larger cfm airflow will do for you, without the expence.

Mike C your correct about the high shipping cost but I live about 90 miles from a store so I just drove over and bought a few several times for myself and my friends, why not check if theres a store near you? 4" grade 5 will work with a few washers installed on the bolts under the bolt head but 4" or 3 1/2" long 3/8" NC grade 8 bolts are what you should use,(4" will require a few spacer washers, 3.5" can only use 1 washer and still be long enough) remember the differance in cost between grade 8 and grade 5 is less than $2 and the grade 8 is several thousand pounds of shear strength stronger, your life could depend on that $2 worth of extra strength (its your choice but my butts worth $2 extra, I think youll be inclined to spend the $2 more if you think it over) BTW a little trick is to slide a washer onto the bolt before inserting it in the mounting head and slip a 2" piece of 3/8" fuel line over the bolt from the front on each bolt in the tool head after the bolts inserted , this tends to keep them from fallin out when an engine is not installed on the stand, which is how those grade 8 bolts get lost!

One of my friends recently got hurt when a cheap 750lb capacity engine stand (LIKE THIS) http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=776855&prmenbr= 6970 tipped over,I build engines on a semi- pro basis, do yourself a huge favor and buy this engine stand,(BELOW) you can,t beat a 2000lb capacity for $80 and Ive got 4 of them in the shop now, you cant stop an engine if it starts to flip when your torqueing the bolts and if you get cought between the engine and the floor the damages to your body will cost thousands and months to repair , be smart and use the CORRECT TOOLS FOR THE JOB! http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=19976&prmenbr=69 70 or this http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=334728&prmenbr=6970

JamesL with the correct aftermarket heads,intake,cam,crank,rods,pistons installed that 340 dodge/plymouth will make as much or more power than the 350 chevy. they can be stroked to 400cid and because of the larger crank to cam distance and longer rods they are easier but slightly more expensive to work on. http://www.mopartsracing.com/

sorry about that,I answer over 100 of these questions aday and sometimes old age sets in and the mind just gets fuzzy, yes you can use comp cam HYDROLIC rollers on a crane HYDROLIC ROLLER CAM, the correct cam number would be something like the #119831 http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119831&B1=Display+Card because roller cams have faster ramps you will get away with it ,(notice the timeing specs at .050 lift are very close) #114142 flt tap.........119831 hydr roller io=1..ic=35............io=4..ic=38 exo=51..exc=-3.........exo=52..exc-2 but for that matter the comp cams grind suggested is also very close, what it comes down to is you need to get a cam in the 218-224 intake duration and no more than 230 exhaust duration area to get the low rpm torque your after, the crane grind on the wider LSA should have an extremely small advantage due too a wider torque curve but the comp cams grind should also have its tourque curve build slightly faster (both cams are so close I doubt youll ever tell the differance!)

Quantrex I have no IDEA where you thought you saw me working with an engine equiped with rams horn exhaust manifolds but I can assure you your confused as Ive not run rams horn exhausts on any engine in the last few years and not on my personal cars for over 30 years Heavy Z you do realise that a set of good QUALITY headers will boost your power far better than those cast iron exhaust manifolds can don,t you. btw the cam will work either way but QUALITY headers are the better choice!

Heavy Z get this http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=113802&B1=Display+Card it should be just about perfect for your needs, you can add 1.6 ratio rockers for a slight mid range boost and this cam should pull much better than stock over the whole rpm range.(btw I called CRANE just to varify my choice and they also agreed!)

first those rockers normally are stamped they will be marked 1.6 if they are aftermarket 1.6 ratio rockers if they are not marked at all chances are excellent that they are stock 1.5 ratio arms next whats wrong with the cam you have now? what are you trying to do with the car? whats your hp goals? please give all the info you can so reasonable choices can be made.things like, car weight rear gear ratio etc, this is all the info you gave! now an excellent cam choice can be made but your going to need to live with that choice so if you tell me full race dont expect to take long trips and get great mileage, full race type cams work like crap below 4000rpm, so think about what you really want and try to describe it truthfully and remember a cam thats slightly to mild will work far better than one thats slightly too wild 1971 Datsun 240Z w/327 V8 5 Speed Vehicle Description 1971 Datsun 240Z with: Balanced Chevy 327 with aluminum Elderbrock heads, manifold and heavy duty aluminum water pump. The engine has great quality internal components such as the lifter(rollers), push rods, oil pump. The clutch is a Heavy duty Mc Leod unit. The tranny is a T5 out of a Camaro. 650 Holley double pumper carb with MSD ignition (Box) and 8 mm MSD cables and electric fuel pump. The car has ramshorn iron manifolds because I found the headers anoying but the pipe is 2" with a Magnaflow exaust. I did the convertion per JTR manual. The battery has been relocated to the rear and is a sealed, maintenance free unit. The front brakes have the dual piston calipers and the car has 4 coil over with the shortened housing and the shorter brand new KyB shocks. The shifter is a short trow kind made of billet alluminum, Grant steering wheel and some Autometer gauges. The electric fan is the 2 speds from a Ford tempo. All the bushings were replace by urethane and the rack and pinion is rebuilt. As you can see I was building this car to keep it and to be fast. It is not finish. The car runs and will go anywhere but it needs: -The support for and the Camaro radiator suggested by JTR. Right now it has the 280z radiator and it does the job but I like to play it safe -A nicer paint job -Carpet and re-upholster the seats -R200 Differential. Currently it has the R180. It runs but the engine has far more torque and horses than what the differential can hanndle. Rims are Americar Racing Equipment. The engine has around 4K miles. For more info and pics go to: WWW.Grafted-Rx7.com/datsun.html

ok now you have a basic v-8 (Z) what are your plans to hop it up so it REALLY SCOOTS, youll get over that feeling that its fast the first time some other car beats you on the race track!

http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum12/HTML/000721.html