grumpyvette

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=14544&categoryId=0 much better http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=19401&categoryId=0

please define "bearing is wrong for this cam"

go with the open chamber ,larger cc combustion chamber heads, they in most cases flow slightly more air and matched to the correct piston make more hp, while its true that its easier to gain compression with the smaller chamber heads the valve shrouding slightly limits the airflow on the small chamber heads. . in an ideal world the valves(two intake, to keep port velocities very high while haveing a combined flow greater than a single valve can supply and one exhaust to make the port cooling easier while not have any shrouding, the sparkplug would be centered and the quench areas would be about equal on both sides of the combustion chamber squishing the air into two walls of air/fuel mix slaming into each other as a piston with a slight reverse dome matching the combustion chambers shape swung past TDC so that the spark plug would almost instantly ignite all the mixture in the cylinder.like these

(1)open chamber heads have the spark plug side of the cumbustion chamber layed back to speed flame travel and unshroud the valves, closed chamber heads are a much more oval and compact shape closed chamber open chamber

thank you I missed that untill you told me!

if you must spend money buy your wife a dozen roses , she might like them , Im glad to help! and no I don,t want nor will I accept money for helping you out!

bump?

sure glad to help, read this on dcr http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3966&prmenbr=361 this gives you a very rough idea of the wrench size necessary for each size fitting 4AN Wrench, 9/16'' & 5/8'' 6AN Wrench, 3/4'' & 11/16'' 8AN Wrench, 7/8'' & 13/16'' 10AN Wrench, 1'' & 1-1/16'' 12AN Wrench, 1-1/8 & 1-1/4 a very rough idea as to line size AN Size: -04; 1/4 Pipe AN Size: -06; 3/8 Pipe AN Size: -08; 1/2 Pipe AN Size: -12; 3/4 Pipe

dcp is about 8.2. Id drop back to the next milder cam to raise the dynamic compression slightly or go with a 112-114 lsa but that would lose you some low rpm torque

your piston to deck clearance is normally about .025 with stock or aftermarket pistons unless the block has been decked.(that does not change) tell me the cam part number and manufacturer and piston part number and manufacturer and Ill try and work it out for you (the static and dcr) the cam open and close points are what change the static to the dynamic compression ratio. remember the piston compresses NOTHING UNTILL both valves close , your dynamic compression is figured from the piston position during its rotation point at valve closeing to the tdc

labrat,s correct , if it's a stock unit installed with stock timing, line the dots up. Cam at 6 o'clock and crank at 12 o'clock. "Some aftermarket timing gears allow you to install the cam advanced or retarded" that can cause problems in that those cam and crank gears are marked in three places be sure your lineing up the (0) not the triangle or square and that the cam (pin) is at the 2 o,clock possition

a well put togeather professionally set up (Z) with 450-500hp chevy is so much more impressive than a stock 6 cylinder(Z) its like compareing your average high school cheer leader girl to something like pamala lee anderson, both are nice but one just has that something extra that makes it special , besides you just can,t lay 300 feet of dark black rubber on the pavement going from a dead stop to about 100mph in one block like a 406cid chevy powered (Z) can

?????????????? did you get the rear main cap? did it fit? did it help?

total seal rings are very special rings YOU MUST follow the manufacturers advise on cylinder finish and hone to get the rings to seat correctly, if you do not follow the instructions to the letter its hardly the fault of the rings if they fail to seat correctly,cast rings wear fairly fast so they seat quickly in almost any bore finish , total seal rings require special setup ,you need too follow the directions that come with the rings and use the powder thats used rubbed into the dry honed cylinder walls thats used to seat them (call total seal for the directions) BTW Ive seen more than one set of rings installed upside down, there is a top and bottom to rings and if the are installed upside down in the piston grouves they burn oil all the time, now Im not saying that your friend did anything wrong but properly set up rings normally seat well under 1000 miles/24 hours of running time http://www.totalseal.com/howdoo.html

crankshafts of ANY manufacture normally break from stress induced by not ballancing the engine correctly or not useing a harmonic damper,or the wrong harmonic damper or by useing rods and pistons of differant that stock weights that the ballance weights do not fully compensate for or by being wacked on repeatedly by broken or spun rods. theres hundreds of scat cranks in use in the 450-700hp range (keep in mind that cast cranks are not meant to handle the loads and rpms that 500hp plus hp could put on them.)above 500hp a ballanced engine useing forged cranks are a better idea

if your going with a hydroilic roller cam that comp grind is a reasonable choice

Mikelly good point! I was going to say that also but for some reason I just left it out (old age creeping up I guess)

yes everthing sounds fine provided you pick the correct cam to match your cars weight and gearing, Id try for a 8.5 dynamic compression ratio for max performance, the crane #114681 comes close if your looking for a flat tap solid lifter cam, (yeah it will idle rough and have almost all the power above 3500rpm requireing a 3.54 or better rear gear but it will hall butt!)

you want trans info? here this will get you started http://www.drivetrain.com/autotranscrossref.html#CHEVROLET http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/700spd.htm http://www.autotransinc.com/stall.htm http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/ratio.html http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/gmt56inst.html http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/muncie.html http://www.drivetrain.com/transautogmapp.html http://www.nastyz28.com/transid.html http://www.peachstatechevelles.com/muncieid.html http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.htm http://www.fortesparts.com/tremec/tr3550.html http://www.kennedyeng.com/ http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/length.html http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html http://64.226.206.184/tech_info/trans_dims_tables.htm http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ http://highperformancecars.com/crosley/700id.htm http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm

you want trans info? here this will get you started http://www.drivetrain.com/autotranscrossref.html#CHEVROLET http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/700spd.htm http://www.autotransinc.com/stall.htm http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/ratio.html http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/gmt56inst.html http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/muncie.html http://www.drivetrain.com/transautogmapp.html http://www.nastyz28.com/transid.html http://www.peachstatechevelles.com/muncieid.html http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.htm http://www.fortesparts.com/tremec/tr3550.html http://www.kennedyeng.com/ http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/length.html http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html http://64.226.206.184/tech_info/trans_dims_tables.htm http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ http://highperformancecars.com/crosley/700id.htm http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm

you MUST use narrow body roller rockers (self alineing) on an LT1 and in most cases stock valve covers willNEED the internal drippers drastically shortend, both crane and comp cams make the NARROW BODY roller rockers, btw in some cases the pushrod slots will need to be lengthened for clearance. http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/RockerArms/HiTechStainless.asp http://www.cranecams.com/master/rockers.htm http://www.cranecams.com/master/images/392d.jpg

?????????????? did you get the rear main cap? did it fit? did it help?

first measure the old rear end width from mounting plate to mounting plate on the wheels then look here. http://www.dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane/9inchrearends.htm try and find one that has a similar width, or at least a good source for a donor rear, heres other info you may need http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm http://home.mho.net/toy283/fordswap.htm http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/ http://www.magnumforce.com/wilwood_rear_brakes.asp

Im also a retired engineer I worked for AT&T before retireing, while you might get into areas that require you getting help your easily able to do this, its very easy if you think it through, the only thing you really need is the desire and some place to work on the car and that JTR manual a few hand tools,and engine stand this site and a good engine crane (you can always rent that)

first thing you NEED is a well designed SYSTEM thats cheap,look here, http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/mms.nsf/pages/Specials thats $39-$60 for a good basic oil pan that holds 7-8 qts, I modifyed the 8qt pan to hold 9.5qts on my vette with an extended sump kit (wider not deeper) they also sell, I extended the sump 6" forward and cut the forward lower corner at an angle and re welded it to get (K) frame clearance the result was a 7.5" deep 9.5qt oil pan for just over $100 includeing the kit and welding costs, I also added a MILODON windage screen that necessary to control oil return flow don,t get cheap on your oil system or the connecting rods,its what keeps that engine together when you abuse it