grumpyvette

the steath ram has an effective rpm range of about 4000-6500rpm (depends on displacement and cam used, its runners are 6.3" long and its good for about 65-75 hp more than a TPI intake in the 4000-6800rpm range, its runner length makes reasonable torque even at lower rpms, yes youll loose some torque compared to the TPI intake but not a huge amount. the tpi mini-ram has runners only about 3" long it makes about 50hp-55hp on average (not the 100hp they claim)more than the TPI intake and makes much less low rpm torque than either the stock TPI or the stealth ram , is operational range is about 5500-7500rpm (again, it depends on displacement and cam used,)the only point I see in its favor is hood clearance Ive run all 4 common intakes ported tpi super ram mini ram stealth ram the ported tpi gained me about 20hp over the stock TPI.(power range, 1500-4500rpm super ram gained me about 45hp over the stock TPI(power range 2000-5500rpm) the mini ram ram gained me about 55hp over the stock TPI but lost torque below 5000rpm(power range about 5500-7500rpm) the stealth ram gained me about 68 average hp and close to 90hp at peak but lost torque below 4000rpm compared to the stock TPI intake (power range about 4000-6800rpm) now keep in mind Ive got a full roller 383 11:1cpr with ported trickflow heads and full length headers, the stock TPI totally strangles that engines airflow above 4500rpm, so any intake system that flows more air lets the engine breath and produce better hp, the steath ram and the other intakes require a cam and headers to effectively use the better airflow http://www.thunderracing.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=subcategory&subcategoryid=1125 now if hood clearance is a big problem you can run this type MPFI,holley, edelbrock and others make or can convert most single plane intakes to EFI

not the same concept in use at all, similar name but differant concept, the G.M. concept is based on in the cylinder turbulance mixing the injectors fuel spray to increase the burm efficiency inside the cylinder

build a 406 sbc, build a 406 sbc, trust me here youll need a blow torch to get the smile off your face when the projects complete, if youll tell me your goals hp wise Ill help but most of the guys here can do a search and find a good 425hp/450tq combo that will live damn near forever and kick butt on the street! you really don,t need more than that to have loads of fun embarasing the more expensive muscle cars. look at combos 68,70 ,101,103 http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

http://www.geocities.com/ered95/images/reality.jpg

THINK ABOUT IT! everything you do to an engine to increase its efficiency adds to or increases the rate at which air enters the engine, mixes with the fuel and burns produceing more power. the engines power depends almost totally on how fast and how effectively you burn that fuel air mix and the more properly mixed fuel/air mix you can get into and out of the cylinders per second the more power you can make! the IDEA behind the TORNADO is to swirl the airflow causeing turbulance and slowing the total airflow into the engine, sure in some cars the air intake design is so restrictive that some added turbulance might help but in almost every case just removeing the air filter or changing to a less restrictive duct work system would help much more! that TORNADO IS A TOTAL SCAM like the magnets on fuel lines that IONIZE your fuel or the carbon resistor that snaps on your distributor terminals that smooths your idle and increases mileage. don,t you think that if G.M. could add ten hp to every engine for about $5 (actual cost to make) by adding a swirl enhancer to the intake they would not do it! after all a 10hp gain with no moving parts and no emission increase would be worth millions to G.M., CAN YOU SAY SCAM. SCAM. SCAM

after much testing Ive found that a good windage screen works well enough bye itself, that a crank scraper adds little extra. but if you choose to add one it will help slightly, personally I use one but just because I already own several, the properly mounted windage screen does about 95% of the work

look this over, http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html think intercooler and LOTS of Toulene/Xylene/methonol added to the fuel, face it turbos make super power but they also cost ALOT to install and FEED, with the correct fuel blend youll be able to get enough hp out of that stock bottom end to stretch bolts and spin bearings way before you melt pistons http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcompB.html

your close, but its closer to say, the manifold is almost exactly the correct size! remember that each runner is a column of air and that air has volume, weight and energy. now its true that the cylinder can only take 110cfm BUT remember that during of all the time the engine is running is in a 720 degree repetitive cycle? and the air can only flow into the cylinder durring the 250 degrees or so that the valve is held open by the cam? well that means that the air flow needed is 720 degs/250 degrees x 110=316cfm or just about what the intake port on the stealth ram can flow at max volume. or put another way youll need to push 316cfm down the port because its only open durring 34.7% of the time available to fill that cylinder (your forgetting that at the correct tuned rpm range there is a slight possitive pressure buildup behind the intake valve due to inertia in the column of air that pressure normally reaches about 1-1.5psi durring the most effective rpm brand (lets say 1.25 psi average) so 316cfm really equals 14.7/1.25=11.76% or 316 x 111.7%= 353cfm true flow in the ram tune rpm range (thats dependent on the displacement, cam timeing, port size and rpm but nornmally falls in the 5000-7000rpm range. so yes your correct in your assesment and im impressed that you caught that!

windage trays/screens are normally attached with main studs that replace the main cap bolts like these,the dual dia. type like the ones to replace the maincap bolts on the right use the smaller extended section with one nut below and one above to clamp onto and to precisely position the windage tray http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1413&prmenbr=361

the steath ram is a tunnel ram intake converted to EFI fed from a horizontal feed throttle body, because it flows ONLY air and fuel injectors add the fuel to the cylinders as a pressureized spray as the air enters the cylinder head it is designed totally differant than the vic jr which was designed as a wet flow intake with several clearance issues and a vertical flow carb. as a fuel source. your compareing apples and oranges as they say. personally I have had much better luck with the super victor intake with both carbs and when converted to EFI with injectors and a throttle body air flow control when a lower hood clearance is the goal. both the victor style and tunnel ram style intakes have thier place and make similar power but the tunnel ram intakes longer port length and slightly larger port flow #s allow a tunnel ram to make slightly higher rpm power and in some cases a wider torque band range

I was asked?"will the steath ram flow enough air to make max power" well lets do the math, the steath ram is designed for the sbc engine, the largest normally built sbc displacement is the 434cid engine. the 434 engine spinning 7000rpm (thats well over the normall rpm for that engine even in race form) can use about 880cfm at 100% efficiency. the steath ram is cut to fit a 58-60mm twin throttle body bore size. that bore size flows about 1000cfm, well above the level thats necessary to feed even that larger than normal displacement. now holley says that the ports in the steath ram flow about 300cfm and several people have flowed the intake and thats true, but keep in mind that flow benches measure steady state flow, also keep in mind that the 4 cycle engine has a total of 720 degs in the total repetitive cycle and only about 250 (THE CAMS INTAKE DURRATION) of those 720 degrees are used to flow air into the cylinders on the intake stroke and if you carefully take the time to measure youll find that about 85% of that 250 degrees is flowing a usefull amount of airflow for a total of about 259cfm at a time per cycle trying to move into a single cylinder. now since the cylinder on a 434 spinning 7000rpm only needs 110 cfm even at a steady state flow into the cylinder and the cylinder can only hold that aproximate 110cfm the intake (steath ram) flows more than enough air to make max power , and more than enough air to to feed the largest flowing heads that normally fit the steathrams intake ports (like the 195cc AFR cnc heads)I was asked?"will the steath ram flow enough air to make max power" well lets do the math, the steath ram is designed for the sbc engine, the largest normally built sbc displacement is the 434cid engine. the 434 engine spinning 7000rpm (thats well over the normall rpm for that engine even in race form) can use about 880cfm at 100% efficiency. the steath ram is cut to fit a 58-60mm twin throttle body bore size. that bore size flows about 1000cfm, well above the level thats necessary to feed even that larger than normal displacement. now holley says that the ports in the steath ram flow about 300cfm and several people have flowed the intake and thats true, but keep in mind that flow benches measure steady state flow, also keep in mind that the 4 cycle engine has a total of 720 degs in the total repetitive cycle and only about 250 (THE CAMS INTAKE DURRATION) of those 720 degrees are used to flow air into the cylinders on the intake stroke and if you carefully take the time to measure youll find that about 85% of that 250 degrees is flowing a usefull amount of airflow for a total of about 259cfm at a time per cycle trying to move into a single cylinder. now since the cylinder on a 434 spinning 7000rpm only needs 110 cfm even at a steady state flow into the cylinder and the cylinder can only hold that approximate 110cfm the intake (steath ram) flows more than enough air to make max power , and more than enough air to to feed the largest flowing heads that normally fit the steathrams intake ports (like the 195cc AFR cnc heads)now as Ive said before an engines power depends a great deal on how much air/fuel mix you can stuff into, burn effectively and get out of the cylinders per second, now without power adders like nitrous or a supercharger your going to be limited to about 1.25-1.35 hp per cubic inch of displacement and the small block engine is phyisically limited in size to about 440 cid without very expensive parts. since the potential power potential can be approximately be figured with the formula (.257 x cylinderhead flow x 8=hp potential) and the best heads and intakes combined flow about 310cfm or about 625hp max potentially, the steath rams airflow falls right in at the max flow/horse power potential. most other intake systems like the TPI,super ram, performer RPM, etc. now available lack this high level of air flow when matched and flowed with the heads now available thus limiting the rate at which fuel/air mix can be drawn in, burned and expelled fron the sbc cylinders. short answer, the steath ram ,matched to a great set of cylinder heads, good roller cam and headers, makes a great combo that can come near to the max potential hp. most other intakes lower the total airflow into the engine, the steath ram being a modifyed tunnel ram intake does not and as such has the potential to make max hp in the 575-625hp range for a non-assisted sbc useing the older style 23 degree cylinderheads

screen (best) built in windage screen(very good) tray (not as good at returning oil to the sump but still much better than nothing)

heres a bunch of torque specs http://www.torquespecs.com/gmfs70-88chv8.htm http://www.darklair.com/monte/torque_specs.html http://albany.isoa.net/~mharrisj/bbctrq.html http://www.prestage.com/cars/chevy/engine_torque_specs.asp

http://www.carfiche.com/ http://www.carfiche.com/instructions.pl? http://www.carfiche.com/faq.pl

http://www.araoengineering.com/ I do not advise you buy these, I was about to purchase a set but when I started asking lots of specific questions about referances and other happy customers I was quickly and totally stonewalled as to answers and further E-MAILS and phone calls were ignored, it seems that if your willing to just send them $6000 thats fine but if youll want to know how other peoples engines run with those heads youll get no info other than the one printout of a build they did for a magizine several years ago! now if you had a product that worked well don,t you think that you would be shouting to the world about all the people winning races with your parts? in 35 years Ive seen two sets and both were on show cars not racers or dailly drivers. this is the last response I got "PAUL, MY APOLOGIES, ARE IN NEED HERE . I HAD ALOT GOING ON THIS WEEK.ACTUALLY EVERY BODY DID!I HAVE MOST OF THE INFO. READY FOR YOU . I AM WAITING HOW EVER FOR OUR NEWEST IN CAR DYNO TEST RESULTS TO GET HERE.I KNOW THEY PRODUCED ABOUT 600H.P TO THE REAR WHEELS WITH AN EVERYDAY DECENT STREET MOTOR IN AN ALL STEEL 1956 CHEVY STEPSIDE TUCK .SO I DO APOLOGIZE FOR THE DELAY.I HAVE ADDED CHEVYTALK TO OUR LINKS PAGE AND I'VE TAKEN SOME TIME TO READ SOME OF THEIR FORUM CHATS AND WAS VERY HAPPY WITH SOME INFO I WAS ABLE TO FIND . I ALSO WANTED TO THANK YOU FOR YOUR INSIGHT ABOUT OUR 32valve HEADS. I WILL GET THAT MAILED OUT THIS WEEK." yet no further info ever showed up even after several E-MAILS and phone calls

look here http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf now look at the cylinders pressure curve, http://www.auto-ware.com/combust_bytes/pv.htm notice that almost all useable pressure is in the 25 degrees after TDC (right were the longer rods longer dwell time can use it) what youll find if you carefully look into it is that the longer 6" rod has a SLIGHT ADVANTAGE over the 5.7" rod for several reasons , one is that the 6" rod has a longer DWELL time , what this means is that it takes slightly longer in rotational degrees for the 6" rods piston to move away from TDC thus allowing a slightly more effective use of the cylinders presure peak, that together with the better rod angle produceing less cylinder to piston drag allows the 6" rod spinning the same rpms as a 5.7" rod to produce slightly more power in the over 5000rpm to 8000rpm range IF the cam timeing and compression ratio are the same and about 1%-2% more if the cam timeing and exhaust scavageing are set up to take advantage of the longer dwell time. now if your not sure what Im talking about look at it this way, at 7000rpm the piston changes direction 233 times a second and has a power stroke 58 times a second now that means youve got a power stroke every 58th of a second so the longer rods slower acceleration away from the tdc possition allows the longer rods piston to more effiecently use of the cylinder pressure peak. to put it bluntly the 6" rod has a slight but provable advantage, or to paraphraze SMOKEY YUNICK " use the longest rod you can economically fit in the engine block for the best power curve"

here read this http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/ http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/vtg.html

he drives it on the street here in the west palm beach area,near where I live, (might be why some of the cops have a nervious twitch in the corner of their eye)

this big block powered 900hp go-cart is the COOLEST THING IVE SEEN IN YEARS, he was clocked at 238mph

all aluminum 572 cid big block intercooled twin turbo injected engine in my 1996 corvette with a e80 trans and a dana 60 independent rear suspension, with a full roll cage and computer controlled suspension and brakes. while I like the lines on the early (Z) cars I prefer the 1996 vette body style to all other cars

basic cams, understanding the concepts http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (theres 9 lessons here and youll need to understand them all) http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm (flat tappet to roller comparison) http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html (LSA explained) http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/axelg/cams.htm (basic info) http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/camdegree.htm (degree in that cam) http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html 1985,1992,1996 vettes keep the rubber side down and the fiberglass off the guard rails

now if you want a cheaper combo, build something like this 496 bbc http://www.skunk.net/boatengines-496.htm change the cam to a nitrous roller cam grind like this http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=138791&B1=Display+Card add a 400hp nitrous kit and you should be very close to 1000hp

here look these combos over, keep in mind that its the total combo that counts http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html heres some GENERAL TIPS on engine planing things to keep in mind! http://www.midfloridamotorsportsperformance.com/engine_size_stock_bore.htm (1) your normally limited to makeing about 1.25hp per cubic inch of displacement unless expensive high rpm parts are used or power adders like nitrous are used the larger the engines displacement ,the easier it will be to make any power level, starting with a 283 or a 307 puts your at a distinct DISADVANTAGE compared to a 350 or 383, 400 size engine (2)hp= torque x rpm/5252 so..... 400 ft lbs at 3000rpm=228hp 400 ft lbs at 5000rpm=380hp get the IDEA, the higher in the rpm range you make max torque the higher your hp will average! (3)looking at cylinder head flow numbers ((.257 x cfm at max cam lift x number of cylinders = hp POTENTIAL)) so...you can normally make ABOUT a MAX POTENTIAL HP of 411hp with heads that flow 200cfm 514hp with heads that flow 250cfm 617hp with heads that flow 300 cfm (4)all parts in an engine MUST be matched as to the ONE rpm range that your trying to make max hp in..... if you mis-match the rpm range of the parts the results will be far lower than the lowest rpm level of the least effective parts! (5) by far the most comon mistake is buying DEALS on parts that don,t match the rest of the parts in yout engines rpm range or not matching all the parts in the engine to a planned rpm range (6) the cross over point between useing a dual plane intake and a single plane intake is approximately reached at 3500 rpm and 230 deg@.050 cam durration or put another way if your engine spends almost all its time below 3500rpm and your cam has less than 230@.050 durration a dual plane intake will work best, if you spend almost all your time with the engine spinning OVER 3500rpm and your cam has more than 230@.050 durration a single plane intake will be best. this of course assumes your smart enough to know that the cam durration must also MATCH the ENGINES intended RPM RANGE and youve matched all the parts to the cams rpm range(the cam is the brains of the engine and determines what rpm range all the other parts should match, so FIRST PICK the rpm range/hp goal, pick heads that flow enough air to meet that goal, pick a cam that matches that goal and pick all the other parts to match the heads and cam here this will give you new guys some basic info cams http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (theres 10 lessons ., read them all) http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft1.htm intakes http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm compression, http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm oil http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html pistons/rods http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us20114.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://www.engr.rutgers.edu/~llongo/8K.html headers http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6992/vizard.html http://www.ssheaders.com/header.htm hp/torque http://www.carcraft.com/editorial/article.jsp?id=868 basics An internal combustion engine burns a mixture of fuel and air in an enclosed space. This space is formed by a cylinder that's sealed at one end and a piston that slides in and out of that cylinder. Two or more valves allow the fuel and air to enter the cylinder and for the gases that form when the fuel and air burn to leave the cylinder. As the piston slides in and out of the cylinder, the enclosed space within the cylinder changes its volume. The engine uses this changing volume to extract energy from the burning mixture. The process begins when the engine pulls the piston out of the cylinder, expanding the enclosed space and allowing fuel and air to flow into that space through a valve. This motion is called the intake stroke. Next, the engine squeezes the fuel and air mixture tightly together by pushing the piston into the cylinder in what is called the compression stroke. At the end of the compression stroke, with the fuel and air mixture squeezed as tightly as possible, the spark plug at the sealed end of the cylinder fires and ignites the mixture. The hot burning fuel has an enormous pressure and it pushes the piston strongly out of the cylinder. This power stroke is what provides power to the car that's attached to the engine. Finally, the engine squeezes the burned gas out of the cylinder through another valve in the exhaust stroke. These four strokes repeat over and over again to power the car. To provide more steady power, and to make sure that there is enough energy to carry the piston through the intake, compression, and exhaust strokes, most internal combustion engines have at least four cylinders (and pistons). That way, there is always at least one cylinder going through the power stroke and it can carry the other cylinders through the non-power strokes. http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm if you remember nothing else remember this,as a general rule it costs about the same to build most sizes of small block engines and since your total power output will be somewhat based on the engines size building a 383 or a 406 makes more sense than limiting yourself to a 283-350 size engine and most of the power your engine will produce is in the cylinder heads and cam combo you pick and matching the intake system and headers to those two parts

you really did not give enough specific info on your combo to give a reasonable idea as to what you have, (1) what aluminum heads with what size ports? (2)which stealth intake, that name has been used on at least 3 differant intake styles (3)btw you did not say even what size that engine is (4) whats your compression ratio? (5) what style/type transmission? (6)what rear gear ratio? can you give any more info?

http://www.sonnysracing.com/engines_may_2001.html call him up and tell him what you want, if moneys no big problem even 1800hp is available