grumpyvette

if you want the best on the market, http://www.bgfuel.com/demoncarbs/ 5402010GC 750 Mighty Demon http://www.bgfuel.com/demoncarbs/tech.htm

ok haveing a piston quench area .025 down in the cylinder only means you need a .020-.023 thick head gasket to get the proper .045-.048 quench distance , look here, http://www.scegaskets.com/results_IE4.asp CHEVROLET 265-400ci V8 SMALL BLOCK PRO COPPER Head Gaskets Gasket Bore 4.155 Thickness .021" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders, Special Order Thickness. To delete water passages add "NW" suffix to part#. Example: 011065NW. For 93 & up reverse flow LT-1 add "LT" suffix to part # Example 011064LT # 011152 NOW FOR BEST POWER YOU WANT TO GET AS CLOSE TO 7.5/1 CPR AS YOU CAN with that bore and stroke if you run 10 lbs of boost (check it out below)but with flat top pistons your closer too,9.3 cpr with a 74cc head so if thats a turbo engine your building I hope those pistons are dished tops (reverse dome) http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcompB.html

btw grumpy, you can ignore my similar post on chevytalk, i was just looking for a quick response... TOO LATE!!! I already put the same answer over there!

buy or borrow or rent an engine hoist and do the job correctly, if you try honeing the cylinder walls with the pistons still in the cylinders you can,t help getting some metalic dust/crud in under the rings no matter how carefull you are and that will eventually screw something up as that metalic dust embeds in the piston skirts ,bearings ETC. besides the rings will not reseat correctly anyway and if your getting blow-by its probably time for new rings and bearings while you have it apart anyway.

holleys are good carbs for makeing max hp but if your not into tuneing Id get an EDELBROCK 750 cfm Carburetors (this works well on almost any hot street engine) Manual Choke Recommended for most Performer RPM/Torker II applications and large cubic-inch Performer applications. Includes both timed and full vacuum ports for ignition advance. Electric choke #1478 can be added if needed. All Edelbrock carbs come with an installation kit and Owners Manual. Comes with the following jets, rods and springs: Metering Jets: Primary .113, Secondary .107; Metering Rods: .071 x .047. Step-Up Spring: orange (5" Hg). 750 cfm, square-flange, manual choke #1407* Ive had very good results with this carb on hot street 350-383 sbc cars but if your more interested in fuel economy......... 600 cfm Carburetors(youll give up about 10hp but only at above 5000rpm) Street Legal, Electric Choke 50-state street legal for all Chevrolet/GMC V8 engines, 1980 and earlier (E.O. #D-215-10). Calibrated for maximum fuel economy. Includes timed vacuum ports, EGR and fuel vapor outlet. Comes with installation kit and instructions. Not for computer-controlled engines. Comes with the following jets, rods and springs: Metering Jets: Primary .098, Secondary .095; Metering Rods: .073 x .047. Step-Up Spring: orange (5" Hg). 600 cfm, square-flange, electric choke, EGR #1400 both are bolt on and with very little if any tuneing your set to go!!

heres some, keep in mind that the total price of parts is deceptive sometimes because they may or may not include parts you need, for example a rotateing assembly that costs $2000 but includes EVERTHING may be a much better deal that one costing $1500 that you still need to have ballanced and need a flexplate,damper,rings,bearings for or heads that cost $699 bare that still need machine work and valves,guides,studs,springs,retainers, and a valve job may really cost more in the long run than complete $1100 heads so read all the fine print before ordering! http://www.competitionproducts.com/page12.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/dartiron.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/proaction.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/world.html http://www.competitionproducts.com/page10.html http://www.competitionproducts.com/page85.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/rotating.html http://www.crower.com/pdf/173b.pdf http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html (look in Chevrolet Rotating Assemblies)

Mikelly; first thing is that DD-2000 can,t give you a good idea of what the shorty headers are costing you in flow/power/torque over the full length headers because there is no input in the data for primary length or really for size as they just use an average for(large or small tube)you will be closer useing the high performance manifold choice.but read this whole article http://www.feuling.com/randd/articles/art11.htm notice how anti reversion baffles can gain a bunch of power and a second set just past the MERGE COLLECTORS would help the mid range too. Two40MuscleZ Grumpy: Question: To overcome that lack of pressure draw when using "shorty" blockhugger headers, couldn't you add a "stinger" to the end of the collector, thus giving you additional draw pressure? It wouldn't necessarily be of any great length, but would allow for a greater increase in draw and correct the problem?. if the collectors are the merge type( http://www.ssheaders.com/Collectors.htm ) and you include anti pulse reversion dams internally, yes they can be made to work up to a point.but notice http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html that each square on the chart is about equal to 8" in length and you can,t get down to about 16"-25" in length(typically shorty header primary length) till above 6000rpm, so those shorty headers are not doing alot for you below 6000rpm.

need to figure the answer? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- heres how to get it. http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/crc.htm http://www.convertalot.com/meelinks.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://epics.aps.anl.gov/asd/me/FilmPressureDrop.html http://users.erols.com/jeepfan/tirerpmratio.htm http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_ETMPH.asp http://www.prestage.com/carmath/cal...ETandWeight.asp http://www.turbofast.com.au/Drag.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html http://members.aol.com/fastnuf1/calc.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechSe...cl/Artcl07.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~alla...ength/pipe.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~alla...ea/effarea.html

the casting numbers are normally near the springs on some heads but read this, http://www.mortec.com/location.htm http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm now even the best sbc heads out there that ever came on a van (most likely vortecs) if your (SUPER LUCKY) only flow 230cfm and most like the much more comon #882 heads flow only about 208cfm, thats a big drop from the 270-301cfm of good aftermarket heads but lets say you port and clearance and add new springs too your iron chevy heads, now if you build that 383, add a matching cam like a xe274 comp cams hydrolic flat tappet cam to save money, a victor jr intake and matching 1 5/8" headers with a 9/1 cpr to prevent detonation, that combo will get you about 370hp and 400ft lbs now thats more than enough to make a (z) move well but thats noware near the hp you were talking about before of course its no ware near the total cost either!

yes of course it was they were trying to get the best power to weight break on the rules for the TRANS_AM CAMAROS that were restricted to 305 cid max engine size but like I said (the orriginal z-28 engine made about 290 hp according to chevy and with headers and head porting got to about 375hp but remember those TRANS_AM camaros also ran other than the factory supplied production street cam and they raced useing dual quad cross ram intakes that got the cars that were racing to over 435hp but we are talking about the hp as they came from chevy and that was not over about 325hp without the headers and head work.

aluminum heads ARE BETTER THAN IRON HEADS and will allow more compression and be less prone to detonation problems. the only reason I suggested the iron eagle 215cc heads is you rejected the much better 223cc canfield heads I first suggested, (Im assuming because you don,t realize the hp per dollar spent is better with the canfield heads) and as far as cams go getting your cam ground to CRANE #114681 (aluminum heads)or comp cams xe274(iron heads) is cost foolish as both of those cam/lifter kits are available for about ($150 U.S.A.) and you can order the heads direct from the manufacturer http://www.canfieldheads.com/sbc_2600.html

how do headers work I was asked about a previous post,my example of how do headers work? (my explanation for non-engineers)what I think your refering to was when I was trying to explain how headers help pull the exhaust out of the cylinders by useing the energy from the previously fired cylinder mass of exhaust rapidly moveing away from the exhaust valve causeing a negitive pressure at the exhaust valve that helps scavage the cylinder. what I said was you can demonstrate that negative presure caused by a rapidly moveing mass by getting a 2.5"x5' long section of pvc pipe hold it horizontally and insert a full coke can with some tape wrapped around it so that it just slides easily into one end of the 5' long pvc pipe, now put your hand over the end of the pipe you just installed the full coke can into and rapidly drop the other end strait down, as the coke can slides too the floor you will feel the negitive pressure on you hand caused by the falling mass. now a cylinders volume of exhaust moveing through a primary header tube works in much the same way, while it weights much less than the coke can its moveing far faster and carries enought energy that the same negitive pressure is formed at the exhaust valve by the slug of exhaust gas traveling in the header primary tube, if the header primary tube is long enought to still contain the mass of exhaust gas at the rpm that matches the cam timeing and cylinder volume, now temp. cylinder volume, cam timeing and interior pipe dia. all effect the rpm range that this effect peaks at effiency wise but in most v-8 engines a dia equal too the exhaust port and about 32"-39" will put that negitive pressure wave caused by the previous fired cylinder at the exhaust port in the 4000-6000rpm range, look at this chart, http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~alla...ength/pipe.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~alla...ength/pipe.html now figure that exhaust is 1300f or 977k so thats about 25" at 6000rpm and about 39" at 4000rpm to get that pressure wave to work for you scavageing the cylinder(helping to pull exhaust out and the new intake charge into the cylinder.)hers stuff to read, http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechA...ory/theory.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~alla...ge5/page5f.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~alla...ge5/page5f.html http://www.feuling.com/randd/articles/art11.htm BTW it should be obvious why shorty headers don,t make as much power,....the primary tubes being much shorter are also much less effective at controling that negitive pressure wave timeing and strength.

http://www.mikeponte.com/volvo/injectors.htm http://www.allstates.com/injector.html http://www.autotoolexpress.com/fuelincleank.html http://www.geocities.com/genidude/FIClnr2.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us120034.htm http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/si1ti.htm http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/injcleaning.html http://www.inct.net/~autotips/f_inj.htm http://store.yahoo.com/pennzoil/shogfuelsysc.html

get a price on ((a pocket port job with clearanceing for a .550" minimum lift,cut the spring seats for larger new high performance springs,add the new springs,add new screw in rocker studs, add new 2.02" intake valves and 1.6"exhaust valves and a 3 angle valve job and lengthen the pushrod slots for a higher lift cam, clean and remove any casting roughtness in the ports and clearance the valve guides and add new valve seals and check and replace and worn valve guides)) now if the price for doing that(minimum work) to your old heads even gets close to $869 use them for door stops and get these, http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html 10621122 IRN 215/72 ST 2.05/1.60/1.437D $434 they have all that work already done plus much better flowing ports

short answer, yes stock heads will work but they will take MAJOR MACHINE WORK THAT WILL COST MORE THAN THE GOOD AFTER MARKET HEADS and they still will not produce anywhare near the hp that the after market heads will, your looking at about a 50hp-120hp handicap over good aftermarhet heads.either do it correctly of be satisfyed with less than 400hp even with minor head mods or under 450 with head mods that cost more than the better heads will.

I was asked about a previous post,my example of how do headers work? what I think your refering to was when I was trying to explain how headers help pull the exhaust out of the cylinders by useing the energy from the previously fired cylinder mass of exhaust rapidly moveing away from the exhaust valve causeing a negitive pressure at the exhaust valve that helps scavage the cylinder. what I said was you can demonstrate that negative presure caused by a rapidly moveing mass by getting a 2.5"x5' long section of pvc pipe hold it horizontally and insert a full coke can with some tape wrapped around it so that it just slides easily into one end of the 5' long pvc pipe, now put your hand over the end of the pipe you just installed the full coke can into and rapidly drop the other end strait down, as the coke can slides too the floor you will feel the negitive pressure on you hand caused by the falling mass. now a cylinders volume of exhaust moveing through a primary header tube works in much the same way, while it weights much less than the coke can its moveing far faster and carries enought energy that the same negitive pressure is formed at the exhaust valve by the slug of exhaust gas traveling in the header primary tube, if the header primary tube is long enought to still contain the mass of exhaust gas at the rpm that matches the cam timeing and cylinder volume, now temp. cylinder volume, cam timeing and interior pipe dia. all effect the rpm range that this effect peaks at effiency wise but in most v-8 engines a dia equal too the exhaust port and about 32"-39" will put that negitive pressure wave caused by the previous fired cylinder at the exhaust port in the 4000-6000rpm range, look at this chart, http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html now figure that exhaust is 1300f or 977k so thats about 25" at 6000rpm and about 39" at 4000rpm to get that pressure wave to work for you scavageing the cylinder(helping to pull exhaust out and the new intake charge into the cylinder.)hers stuff to read, http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechArticles/Theory/theory.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page5/page5f.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page5/page5f.html http://www.feuling.com/randd/articles/art11.htm BTW it should be obvious why shorty headers don,t make as much power,....the primary tubes being much shourter are also much less effective at controling that negitive pressure wave timeing and strength.

Cruez I found a site that spec's out GM's exact formula for the original 302. I may go by it...except for the extremely high CR..I want it on pump gas. don,t bother, that engine technology is over 33 years old, at the very least use a set of iron eagle 200cc heads and a crane # 114681 flat tappet cam,with a 9.5cpr on a 327-350 with a victor jr intake and headers the orriginal z-28 engine made about 290 hp acording to chevy and with headers and head porting got to about 375hp while the newer combo makes about 425hp or better still build a 383 that way as no one can tell from the looks but the 383 combo will get you about 433hp but a much wider torque curve (btw getting the compression up to 10.5/1 which that cams overlap will allow on 93 octane and a little octane booster will get you to about 457hp

use the thinest weight that will still maintain a 25-30 lb oil pressure at hot idle temps on most new sbc engines thats 10w-30 but if you need to lower the oil pressure you may need to use a mix of 10w 30 and 5w-30 if it needs to be higher add a few qts of 10w 40 or 20w 50 to the mix , the important thing is to maintain 25lbs of oil pressure at hot(engine temps up to your standard operateing idle temps.) 200f-215f oil temps

stop!!!!!!!! you do not drill all the holes strait down!!!! 400 BLOCKS: Steam holes are recommended for all 400 block applications. Use a 400 gasket as a template and drill the three holes nearest the spark plug side of the head straight down, the other three which are very near the head bolt holes should be drilled at a 30 degree angle away from the bolt hole. The center hole will intersect water about 1" down and the two outboard holes to a depth of 2 1/4". Use a 1/8 drill.

congats on the birth of the new BABY 377sbc now just don,t see how many trees the car can hit, doing power slides thru the corners and ENJOY!!!!!! BTW after the first 100 miles a swap to SYNTHECTIC OIL will add years to that engines life.

read this it may help http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/tpimod2.shtml

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- here use this site to get your correct answer on what size injector you need , use a bsf of .45-.50 for normal asperated cars and .55-.65bsf for super charged cars and a .75 duty cycle to insure that if you use nitrious or a supercharger the injectors can keep up and you wont burn pistons. http://www.smokemup.com/utilities/c...el_injector.cfm look heres a site telling how to change the injectors for those of you who don,t do that very often. http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...ectorswap.shtml

here use this site to get your correct answer on what size injector you need , use a bsf of .45-.50 for normal asperated cars and .55-.65bsf for super charged cars and a .75 duty cycle to insure that if you use nitrious or a supercharger the injectors can keep up and you wont burn pistons. http://www.smokemup.com/utilities/c...el_injector.cfm look heres a site telling how to change the injectors for those of you who don,t do that very often. http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...ectorswap.shtml

I posted this before,and to answer your question yes a 383stroke crankshaft will work with some minor mods to the oilpan rails if your useing most steel rods and the MILODON WINDAGE SCREEN #32250 works well with minor mods I recently bought a oilpan from a new source because the cost was very reasonable and it looked like a good deal if you use one, http://www.performancemarket.com/oilpan.htm or you can get a pan simular to the pan I just bought for my vette from MIDWEST MOTORSPORTS #mwm15120 --7.25" deep 7 quart available in right or left hand dipstick for $59-$69 (great deal for what you get and they can get you the correct pump and pickup too,(#mwm15135 small block type 5/8" pickup type pumps ($19.99 www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com and thats a road racing/circle track style pan with 7 qt capacity and its only 7.25" deep for great ground clearence (its got 1/4" more ground clearence than most stock vette pans)the pan is available left dipstick #15120 $59.99 or right dipstick #15121 $69.99 and yes the pan has a slight(3") kickout to the right side but the baffles all direct the oilflow to the rear of the pan for the pump pickup and the baffle doors only allow oil to move toward the pickup so what you have is a pan/pump layout that has a stock corvette configuration with an extra wide sump with far superior oil control. the only down side I see is that some starters may not fit but almost any of the smaller high torque ones will! its a much better pan than the corvette pan.BTW I forgot to mention that I just saw a artical that said if you use nitrious that the slight extra oil voluum from a high voluum pump spraying around in the sump greatly helps cool the pistons from the bottom side in some cases by over 100 degs and if a few extra shallow grooves in the rod mateing areas and a small hole in the web area of the main bearings pointed at each piston from the main bearings is drilled to direct oil at the piston bases even greater cooling can be accomplished. anyway I felt it was a good deal for the money spent and figured why not let you guys make your own minds up but give you the option!!! got to have info to make good decisions , hey Ive payed more and got less before in an oilpan BTW the sbc pump works with much less work or modifications to the internal oilpan baffles. a list of parts to use is the chevy high volume pump chevy# 14044872 with the chevy #3848911 spring and the milodon #mil-32250 windage screen and # mil-32640 crank scraper, this will greatly add to the oil control in your engine and add voluum plus pressure plus control to the oil flow , you will also need the mounting studs #mil-81150 and the oilpump drive shaft #arp-134-7901 all are avail from SUMMIT 1-800-230-3030 -------------------- BTW this is a good source of QUALITY magnets to epoxy into the sump of your oilpan to remove harmfull metalic dust and the work MUCH BETTER THAN THOSE LAME MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet2.html btw J.B. weld works well for this (but be sure to totally clean and degrease the pan before epoxying the magnets(2) into the bottom corners of the sump for best results(you will be amazed at how much metalic dust they pick out of your oil ) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point, that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate does not increase as fast as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine. 16 lifter to push rod points 16 pushrod to rocker arm points 32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends 10 main bearing edges 9 cam bearing edges 16 rod bearing edges 2 distributor shaft leaks 1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.) so the more oil voluum the better.chevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (no) above that level the extra oil will definitely help possiable deficient oil flow and bearing cooling and a simple increase in pressure does not provide a big increase in voluum that may be necessary to keep that oil film in the correct places at the correct voluum at all times.the stock system was designed for a 265cid engine in a passenger car turning a max of about 6000 rpm but only haveing the stress of under 300hp transmitted to the bearings, Im sure the orriginal designers never thought that the sbc would someday be asked to on occasion hold up to 450-700hp and 6000-8000 rpm.nore did they forsee valvesprings that placed 500lbs and up loads on the lifters and the use of over 9 to 1 compression ratios in the orriginal design so the oil voluums and pressures necessary to cool those valve springs and bearings at those stress levels were never taken into account for that either.

THE HOLLEY STEALTH RAM IS 10" tall from block rail to the highest point, thats 1" taller than a TPI intake but the HOLLEY STEALTH RAM flows about 300cfm per port(with minor porting more) where the tpi intake only flows about 235cfm per runner so if you are buliding a kick butt EFI engine useing a G.M. style throttle body thats the intake to buy.(thats more than the mini ram and super ram intakes flow btw guys)