grumpyvette

that isky cam will work decent with a carb and manual trans in traffic ,and produce good hp, but if your going to TPI style intake with its lower rpm band and efi sensors youll want a milder cam on a wider lsa like a crane 114132

as a tool junkie.....damn this looks nice http://www.amazon.com/Jet-414459-HVBS-7MW-Horsepower-Horizontal/dp/B00004T9KT/ref=pd_cp_hi_1?pf_rd_p=413863601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004T9KU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=10SC7YMAV2V2GDZSN2M4

Unless the car starts and runs and you can test drive it...Bid on the car, WHILE ASSUMING the engine and maybe the transmissions a TOTAL BASKET CASE , (NOT A PARTS SALVAGEABLE) that , the engine/drive train, needs to be thrown in the dumpster, if you get the car at that price youll be reasonably sure that youve got a semi decent price for what you get, if its salvagable your ahead, if its junk, well you counted on that in the price. Look over the body and frame carefully,....with NO engine or TRANS is the body worth the price? you might get a screaming deal, the current owner probably just wants OUT! or he would be working on the car! a mopar 360 is a very good engine but if vits conditions totally un-known suspect the worst

the chain cutter works in tight spaces, and limited access, and it works reasonably well, its NOT and will never be as good as a power saw, and its certainly not a production tool, and if you get into a hurry or tighten it a bit to much it breaks,but they sell replacement cutter chains, but theres alot of times you can,t use a power saw.

Try to find a variable speed/adjustable speed and 3/4-2 hp model with a built in adjustable vise if you can. a USED drill press can usuially be located at a good price looking thru the classifieds or craigs list

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-2031-Exhaust-Tailpipe-Cutter/dp/B000M93OUM

ITS BEEN DONE! but the size and weight of the tanks in the car makes strait compressed air almost not an effective solution, so to allow use of a smaller lighter tank with the same oxygen content to allow the same fuel volume to burn they tried straight oxygen, it melted pistons and burnt valves, next they tried swapping to NITROUS , with double the atmospheres oxygen content and a mix of ALCOHOL and TOLUENE , mixed with some oil as the fuel and upper cylinder lube,with its low burn temp and high octane and decent lubrication properties, it worked great, but many racing organizations won,t allow that. SO were back to use of nitrous and gas. as the best compromise.

what size pontiaqc V8(displacement) any pictures?, WHAT TRANSMISSION?

if youve got access to a decent welder (PREFERABLY TIG) and some fabrication skill, you can always make a custom set........., head flanges, collectors, and complete kits are readily available. but those are decent prices on shorty headers http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Headers.html custom headers freqently cost over $1000-$1200 plus

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_110827/article.html anyone that would fall for these gizmos has no concept of mechanics or physics, but read thru the link for some giggles at the expence of anyone thats so totally clueless, as to buy one! but want to try one anyway save 90% youll still be throwing your cash away but hey, its YOUR MONEY! http://www.shopwiki.com/detail/?q=Attwood+Turbo+Bilge+Blowers&s=3885&o=1034730794&d=Attwood+Turbo+4000+Blower

thats really impressive work

Ok, first the price issue, look around and shop carefully. you can find the holley distrib for less than 60% of list., and Ive posted links below on how to upgrade the HEI if you want to go that route. next point If your heads ,intake and exhaust scavaging won,t flow enough airflow to support 6000-7000rpm the cam used can,t possiable supply the flow rates either. next, learn to read plugs, its a skill youll need, to know, and with practice its almost as effective for getting a good idea to the a/f ratio and cylinder temps as an a/f ratio meter. Set your plug gaps at .045 and check your battery voltage and connections, and engine grounds, test your coil, and verify the ohms resistance on your plug wires, in no case shoud they exceed over about 300 ohms per foot, good wire reads less than 200 ohms, verify your timing curve and adjust your valves, carefully, verify your fuel pressure is a minimum of 4.5 psi at the carb, and the floats are set correctly. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=202 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=232 , yes a decent high output coil will help.

CRANE makes a BETTER ignition, in my opinion, but my MSD works fine so its not getting replaced untill or if it fails... Ive seen a few MSD boxes that were burnt up internally but they generally are easy to test and either work or are fried. MSD 6 series ignitions are cheaper and more common, but theres far more durrable units available, from MSD,CRANE and other sources. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRN%2D6000%2D6400&N=700+115&autoview=sku

yes its VERY easy to upgrade the distributor, one of the very first mods I did to my car was replacing the darn HEI, the low rpm multi spark helps the idle, the new distrib and ignition and wires pulls easily to 7K rpm with this.. http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/AV/IS/ISD/890-160.html MSD Ignition El Paso, TX 915/855-7123 http://www.msdignition.com the MSD 6AL ignition is just fine for most street/strip application when matched with the correct components http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Street/Strip/Analog/6420_-_MSD-6AL_Ignition_Control_with_Rev_Control.aspx http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D79226&N=700+115&autoview=sku

heres some decent sources of welding info http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/ http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=4 http://metals.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aws.org%2Fcgi-bin%2Fmwf%2Fforum_show.pl%3FmarkRead%3D1 DO YOURSELF and your projects a HUGE FAVOR, anytime you run into a problem while welding , STOP, ASK QUESTIONS, CORRECT THE PROBLEM, before PROCEEDING and yes changing the polarity , the wire type or dia., the shield gas,the pressure, the weld rods, ETC,ETC. from what you know currently works,WILL almost always require other matched changes or youll have problems

http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3206

http://www.msdignition.com/pdf_catalog/2008_catalog_69-111.pdf'>http://www.msdignition.com/pdf_catalog/2008_catalog_69-111.pdf MSD Ignition El Paso, TX 915/855-7123 http://www.msdignition.com rather than rebuild your old and probably well worn chevy distributor you might want to look into upgrading to a new ball bearing shaft distibutor with modern electronics and a matched ignition. http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3206 PROVIDED its not defective if your buying it used? the reason I point that out is theres a few total slimeballs that sell burnt out components at swap meets, so your almost always better off buying ignition components that are NEW rather than used. the MSD 6AL ignition is just fine for most street/strip application when matched with the correct components http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Street/Strip/Analog/6420_-_MSD-6AL_Ignition_Control_with_Rev_Control.aspx http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Street/Strip/Analog/6420_-_MSD-6AL_Ignition_Control_with_Rev_Control.aspx http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Distributors/Chevrolet/Ready-to-Run/E-Curve/8360_-_Chevy_V8_with_Internal_Module_Distributor.aspx http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D79226&N=700+115&autoview=sku

a stock, TPI intake stands almost exactly 8.74" above the blocks forward wall top edge between the cylinders, the stealth ram is at 10.1" tall. the LT1 intake is at least 1.75 inches lower than the TPI. Most performancecarb intakes fall in the 8"-10" tall range, while obviously tunnel rams can easily be 16"-18" or more. Most oil pans extend a LEAST 7" below the oil pan rails and 8"-9" even 10" deep oil pan sumps are comon in stock oil pans http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html

"Fast forward one more year: I’m still waiting for AFR to finally bring to market their long-promised 265cc oval-port BBC heads. Are you listening, AFR????" Your very un-likely to see those heads....EVER,,, simply because theres a very limited market, brodix makes some nice oval port heads if your interested, http://www.brodix.com/heads/heads.html but don,t get crazy worrying about port size. With the correct cam and compression ratio and use of a matched intake manifold and header design even a fairly large 310-315cc big block rectangle port head can make killer power and decent mid rpm torque on a 454 displacement engine.

thinking of swapping your carb to a TPI system? this should help but keep in mind that the TPI produces good torque and good mileage but the intake design restricts air flow rates with the stock intake components above about 4500rpm, so its ment for cruising and low to mid rpm torque not peak hp http://www.amazon.com/Chevy-Injection-Swappers-Guide-Design/dp/1884089127/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1229366591&sr=8-1 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=596 http://www.darklair.com/monte/howto/howto.TPI_swap.html http://www.edgesz28.com/edgesZ28/suburban/suburban-tpiswap.htm http://chevythunder.com/ http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=168 http://sethirdgen.org/tpi1.htm http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/GMTPISwap.htm

I think the guys are correct your in about the 3000 lb range. thats still light enought to beat 90% of the cars on the street for great power to weight ratio,with a decent engine combo, installed.

honestly, if youve got a decent welder and a tape meassure and some time, to kill, this is a reasonably easy project , and it sure beats paying $2k http://www.prwonlinestore.com/low-profilesetsaccessorizedunit.aspx heres some basic design ideas from pictures http://www.mightymount.com/ http://www.hotstands.com/ http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/tech-exchange/471021-homemade-engine-run-stand.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Engine-Start-Test-Stand-Plans_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem230310166282QQitemZ230310166282QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-BB-CHEVY-ENGINE-RUN-TEST-STAND-PLANS-9-pg-FREE-S-H_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem320324798487QQitemZ320324798487QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools IF i was going to fabricate one ID start with this http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_406688_406688 ID buy (2) 3 ft long, and (2) 5 ft long sections of 1.5"x 3" box steel too weld as a base, and about 20 feet of 1" x 2" box steel as uprights for the gauges, and radiator,battery box, ETC. into. plus a section of 1/8" thick 1ft x 2 ft aluminum diamond plate to mount the gauges, ID buy (4) of these wheels http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200337096_200337096 and find a decent radiator from a salvage yard, Id get these gauges http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D4337&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D4327&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D4391&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AVM%2D30%2D4100&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D4498&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D4301&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NEX%2D15512&N=700+115&autoview=sku for UNDER about $750 and most of thats GAUGES you can have a decent engine stand built

The very black oil ,and using oil plus, the smoke but yet your passing the leakdown test tends to point to the turbo as a cause, if the engine was the cause the leakdown test tends point that out, and very black oil indicates exhaust or at least combustion contamination. Im going to assume youve got pressurized oil flowing thru the turbo and the high heat and exhaust gases pressent are some how mixing with the cooling oil on the turbo.

IF you’re not using a RETURN LINE and a bye-pass style fuel pressure regulator that problems common, it’s NOT common with a decent 3/8" or larger fuel lines, (BOTH feed AND return lines) matched with a bye-pass style fuel pressure regulator. dead head style fuel pressure regulators are famous for that crappy control. naturally youll need to verify the carbs set up corretly with the correct jets,power valves, float levels etc, also, but the problem your describing is far more common to the dead head fuel pressure regulator designs. http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuelish-tendencies-understanding-fuel-pressure-and-volume-spg-140.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel-system-troubleshooting-spg-142.html FUEL PRESSURE REGULATORS DEADHEAD vs BY-PASS STYLE dead head regulators seldom allow a stable fuel system pressure, you NEED a by-pass style system with the regulator mounted close to the carb, you can ignore the nitrous part of this diagram if your not running nitrous but the concept of the higher pressure feed bleeding off excess pressure at the regulator so that the carb sees a constant feed pressure is valid. it may help if you understand the difference in concept of how the regulators work PRESSURE IS THE MEASURE OF RESISTANCE TO FLOW THE DEAD HEAD STYLE REGULATOR Works with a spring on a valve that allows the valve to open once the DIFFERANCE IN PRESSURE between the sides of the regulator valves fuel lines has changed Think of it as a door that has 7-10psi on the feed side and you want lets assume 5.5 psi at the carb as the fuel pump fills the line it eventually (fractions of a second) reaches the point where there’s a volume of fuel past the valve with enough pressure to allow BOTH the SPRING and the fuel pressure past the valve to close the valve until the fuel is reduced to the point that the SPRING and the remaining fuel pressure/volume beyond the valve can not hold the valve closed and the valve is force open and held open until, that difference in pressure is restored. now lets launch the car hard, the pump that had maintained 8-10 psi to the regulator, 5.5 psi past the valve and the spring in the regulator is now fighting the fuel in the line feeding the regulators inertia, and the sudden drop in pressure as the throttle drops full open in the carb, what the pump sees is the full 8-10 psi or MORE the regulator sees a sudden drop off to near zero and it opens wide, if the fuel pumps able too it tends to flood the fuel bowl for a second then the valve slams shut, until the pressure drops off as you hit each gear the cycle repeats, the result is a surge in pressure and a rapid drop off in volume then a rapid flood of fuel that rapidly cycles as you go down the track if you had a accurate fuel pressure sensor at the carb you’ll see a rapidly cycling pressure/flow if some crud gets stuck in the valve it cant close and your carb FLOODS OUT, because it must fully close every few fractions of a second to work correctly the by-pass regulator functions in a totally different manor Assuming the same set-up but you replace the regulator with a by-pass style regulator, the by-pass regulator works by opening a valve too a much lower pressure path for the fuel to return to the tank, the open fuel return line. Anytime the pressure exceeds the 5.5 psi, you’ve set it to, so the fuel line to the carb can only see a max at that 5.5 psi. now the pumps sitting there potentially supplying at 8-10psi just like before, but it can never exceed 5.5 psi because the bye pass regulator bleeds of any excess the pump supplies. but lets look at your launch, if the pressure drops to 6, 07 psi nothing changes at the carb, it it increases to 10 or 12 psi, nothing changes at the carb ,if it drops to 5.5 psi or less the valve to the bye pass line will close but that’s seldom a problem, it the sudden changes in pressure and over pressures that happen when you suddenly change the fuel flow required or the (G)loads on the system that potentially screw things up, the bye-pass regulator style regulator isolates the carb and maintains the desired 5.5 psi FAR MORE COBNSISTANTLY Now let’s assume the spring get weak over time or the adjustment gets set at 4 psi in error, with the bye-pass style you’ll probably never notice, if you had a accurate fuel pressure sensor at the carb you’ll see a rock steady pressure/flow Should some crud get stuck in the valve and it can’t close NOT MUCH HAPPENDS, because its normally OPEN not closed If you check you’ll see MOST EFI systems are BYE-PASS regulated designs also due to control and reliability issues But on the dead head the cycle just gets about 20% more erratic and more frequent in the cycles, further weakening the spring over time btw your fuel pump tends to run under less stress and run cooler with a by-pass style regulator also _________________ if you can,t smoke the tires from a 60mph rolling start your engine needs more work!

I think its there to save aluminum in the casting process as much as anything.