grumpyvette

Ill second the advice on never useing the white litium grease on anything, like a pilot bearing! especially roller bearings, the grease you want is BLACK, MOLY grease its designed for high heat and pressure levels, most auto parts stores carry it if you ask for MOLY AXLE GREASE Lubriplate makes a moly grease used for construction machines and other types of exposed gears and bearings. It is a tacky grease that will not spray out of bearings or off of open gears. It is called No 3000 Heavy Duty Tacky Moly Grease,(part # l0108-098). A large tube costs about $ 3.50 and can be found at any bearing supply house or construction machine supplier. This grease is a black soft grease that is very sticky to itself and whatever it is on. http://www.lubriplate.com/pdf/pds/3_21%203000%20Series.pdf btw heres moly assembly lube http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=5123

defective O2 sensors, heat sensors and clogged cats can and do freqently cause a big drop in mileage

theres only a couple comon manufactuers of injectors Accel Bendix Bosch Bosch-Ford Chrysler-Mopar Delphi Ford Holley Lucas MSD Nippon Denso RC Engineering Rochester Siemens Deka Toyota - Lexus http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm and thats not likely to be your problem, its software and sensors and the controling data, or the cats or a exhaust restriction, thats much more likely the cause or cure of the mileage problem

theres only a couple manufactuers of injectors Accel Bendix Bosch Bosch-Ford Chrysler-Mopar Delphi Ford Holley Lucas MSD Nippon Denso RC Engineering Rochester Siemens Deka Toyota - Lexus http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm and thats not likely to be your problem, its software and sensors and the controling data, or the cats or a exhaust restriction, thats much more likely the cause or cure of the mileage problem

if youve got a truck stop with a scale,close locally, weight your truck empty,then weight it with the engine in the bed, subtract the differance youll be close and most truck stops will weight the car for free or at most a couple bucks will this help http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html http://www.jeepgod.net/enginewts.html

looks vaugely like a cross between a new corvette and a 240z with a bit of jaguar thrown into the mix.

http://www.cz-usa.com/product_detail.php?id=29 http://www.eaacorp.com/handguns-witness-steel-description.html I used to carry one in 45acp, it functioned flawlessly these pistols are exceptionally accurate and point naturally, keep in mind your not making an easily dismissed choice, your LIFE could EASILY depend on the gun remaining accurate and dependable, and hitting hard enought to instantly stop a potential opponent!

WAY TOO OFTEN!, yes its anoying

http://www.lt1intake.com/ http://www.lt1intake.com/services.htm its do-able, the guy above can set you up, but theres better options http://www.holley.com/950-21S.asp http://www.holley.com/91005201.asp http://www.holley.com/9901-101-1.asp

a feeler gauge should work just fine, measure under the intake too block rail on both ends of the block,IF theres space, then center the intake between the heads,and measure all 4 corners of the intake gasket mateing surface, carefully if theres space, if the intakes sitting up off the heads because the block rail mounting surface touches instead of having room for sealant

Thats a very comon problem, with heads that have been milled (especially angle milled) or on a block thats been decked, the cheap and dirty fix is just use extra thick or thinner intake gaskets, (not the correct fix)the correct fix is to get the heads or intake machined to match each other correctly again. As the deck is milled or the heads are milled the distance between the two heads intake gasket surface changes and that requires the intake generally to be machined to match the distance and angle. Since you can,t cut things too a larger dimension, that generally means the heads have moved closer to the crank center line, and the intake is now too wide to seal correctly, as the block rails now tend to hit, before the effective clamp force, and alignment on the intake gasket around the ports is reached. Because the heads are now just a bit closer together than on a stock engine configuration. Your best bet is to install the intake without gaskets and take very precise measurements of the gap between the heads and intake face on both sides, of the intake/head gap, with the intake ends sitting on the block rails, and give that info to the machine shop. So they can correctly match the intake to the heads or machine the heads to match the intake. YOUR almost certainly going to require the intake block rail area to be machined to allow the intake to sit deeper between the heads before it contacts the block rails.

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/700r4+AODTVCableAdj.htm http://www.chevyasylum.com/tech/tvcable.html http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html http://www.outlawtransmissions.com/v/vspfiles/articles/tv_cables.pdf

looks like a good functional addition to the car

The Rated Cfm Is Almost Meaningless Between 750cfm-825 Cfm. The Important Factor Here Is The Ease Of Tunning And The Quality Of The Fuel Metering but this may help you http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcdchg.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calccarb.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcafhp.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...a/effarea.html http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcraf...runnerarea.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/toc.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/T...92/vizard.html http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp the question usually goes " what size carb do I need," or something similar, 4v carbs are rated at a flow rate determined with a vacume or pressure drop of 1.5" of mercury, your best power AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AT MAX RPMS will generally be found with a carb that lowers the presure drop or vacume to between 0.5" and 1.0" of vacume, not 1.5" at full throttle,more vacume at full throttle indicates a slight restriction to flow, now on a street car thats not going to be much if any problem, but on a race cars engine, its a sign that your potentially giving away some potential power. lets look at your comon 600cfm carb some of you guys use, a 0.5 inches of vacume it flows only about 350cfm, at 1.0" it flows about 500cfm, at 1.5" it flows about 600 cfm , rated like a two barrel at 3.0" of vacume it flows close to 780cfm, and if you stuck it on a 600 cubic inch big block spinning 6000rpm youll pull about 6" of vacume and it would flow about 1000cfm plus! now remember youll try to stay in the .5" to 1.5" range at full throttle, to make good power. now some of you might notice that the flow dropped NOTICABLY once the vacume dropped and dropping the vacume at wide open throttle tends to help power, provided the a/f ratio is kept near 12.7-13.0:1,AND the engine is set up to USE the flow available to it. VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY in theory a cylinder fills to 100% full, but the limited time the valves are open and the ports restrictive flow will only allow that to happen at a narrow rpm range your engines torque curve on an rpm scale closely mirrors the engines efficincy at filling the cylinders, on that same scale, once the cam timing and port flow become a restriction power falls off because theres less fuel /air mix burnt per power stroke, the power tends to keep going up for alittle further in the rpm band simply because theres MORE ,thou slightly less effective power strokes per minute. at 1000rpm theres 500 intake strokes per minute thats 8 per second times the intake valve opens and closes, at 6500rpm thats 54 times a second, not much time when you think about what needs to flow thru that port in the limited time....especially if you remember that of that 720 degrees in the cycle only about 240 degrees have any useful flow potential, so you just cut even that time by 2/3rds some of you may have figgured out that to get the lower vacume or restriction, youll want a larger carb or perhaps two carbs, remember were trying to get that .5"-1.0" of vacume at full throttle, and that 600cfm carb is not going to flow 600cfm, at that vacume reading but between about 350-500cfm, so if you have an engine that can take full advantage of the flow it may, and usually does require a larger carb to make max power,that 383 might require an 800-850cfm carb or two 600 cfm carbs (since you double the venturie cross sectional area with two carbs the vacume reading is generally cut to about 1/2 what it was and the two 600 cfm carbs now flow about 350cfm each or 700cfm per pair) yet the carb size is just NOT all that critical,to making fairly decent (NOT MAXIMUM POWER) simply because as the vacume signal goes up, so does the carbs flow rate, and as the vacume signal strength goes down so does the flow RESPONCE! up till now we are talking only FULL THROTTLE POWER, but you operate under a wide range of rpms and loads, put that larger carb on a small engine and it makes good power at wide open throttle, but it also tends to have a weak vacume signal at off idle rpm ranges and it may run like crap! so a ballance must be accepted. smaller carbs are generally more responsive, but slightly more restrictive with thier smaller venturies. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/0304_intake_manifolds_contrast/index.html http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/induction_poweradders/sucp_0612_big_block_tunnel_ram_intake/index.html

got a budget in mind? do you need to pass emmision testing? give me more info please

if youve got a 3.73:1 rear gear now Id stay with that, as the swap to a 3.23 rear gear will hurt the low and mid rpm accelleration and youll rarely, if ever be able to use the upper speed potential, and the cost to swap is wasted money, Id put the largest tires I could fit on the car, and the tallest dia. when you tub the rear your much better off maximizeing the accelleration in thw 0-100mph range vs worrying about the over 100mph accelleration

HOLLEY and DEMON carbs are generally much easier to tune, trouble shoot and adjust than most of the others, the demon carbs have a small advantage in that they offer more adjustments and finer mettering, now thats a two edge sword, if your a clutz it means your options allow more areas to screw up, but once youve got the basics down , the HOLLEY and DEMON carbs are generally much easier to tune correctly REMEMBER WERE TALKING A STREET STRIP APPLICATION HERE let me say this, if you can follow dirrections and read plugs and do basic carb adjustments the HOLLEY and DEMON carbs make tunning the engine correctly far easier than something like a carter, quadrajet or edelbrock carb that, has less flexibility ID ALSO POINT OUT that many "carb" problems are really related too or caused by ignition or cam sellection or intake manifold sellection choices, or matching those parts to the wrong compression ratio, rear gearing, or stall speed its hardly the carbs fault if you sellect a great holley or demon carb in the 700cfm-850 range and stick it on an engine combo thats basically a collection of mismatched components and then find its difficult to get it running correctly as an example, I had a neighbor who constantly played with his classic mustang 390 ford engine, claiming his carb was nearly un-adjustable, I quickly found the problem, his fuel presure was 3 psi , his fuel filter was mostly clogged,and his ignition didn,t advance smoothly, as the rpms increased yet he cussed that carb for months, be fore calling me over to look at his car after swearing to everyone who could hear , his carb sucked!

YES ID RUN THAT CARB ON A SERIOUS sbc that only spins up to about 6500rpm, IN FACT IVE DONE THAT with several 383-406 builds with good results

if you ask around you may find a complete used tig welder with liquid cooled torch in a 200-350 amp range in an older model, quite reasonably, ask at welding shops alot of them would love to upgrade thier welders if they could get anything close to decent on the sale of the used equipment they use now I got an older 330 amp MILLER TIG with liquid cooled torch & pump, gauges etc for under $1k Miller 330A/BP Tig/Stick Welder

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PostAddtoCart?inventoryMessage=Monday&nextAvailableDate=&jspStoreDir=JegsDirect&orderId=3513297&inventoryAvailable=Y&catalogId=10002&quantity=1&orderItemId=9144462&langId=-1&catEntryId=285202&addCatEntryId=285202&storeId=10001&ddkey=OrderItemAdd good carbs are expensive but a the race demons in the 825cfm size are very easy to tune correctly

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/automatic-transmission-parts/transmission-pans/aluminum-deep-transmission-pans.htm http://www.yourcovers.com/newindex2.htm http://www.partshp.com/Pans.htm http://www.transmission-specialties.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=98 http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400306+304252+115&autoview=sku http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?partfamilyid=5955 Im many cases adding a deeper transmission pan that adds two or more quarts will lower the average transmission temp. at least 15 degrees, while its certainly not as effective as a trans cooler with an electric fan, but far better than nothing at all!, and youdon,t need to run coolant lines, just be aware that if theres limited ground clearance under the car, a deeper trans pan may be a problem when speed bumps and steep driveway access is encountered

http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission_300zx_tt.html this is very handy, just remember to keep the engine in its ideal power band, you want to spend as much time as you can in any gear in the area centered between the torque and hp peaks, naturally youll need to rpm the engine above and below the peaks at times but try to concentrate the engines power band rpms with the sellected trans and rear gear choices it makes no sence to build an engine that potentially produces 500 hp at 6700rpm, if your rear gear and trans keep the engine in the 2500rpm-5000rpm band most of the time or if your auto trans shifts at 5500rpm

IF Im changing just the cam and lifters do I need to recheck the pushrod length? JUST WONDERING,IF YOU HAVE STOCK LENGTH PUSHRODS,YOU MILL THE HEADS,USE THIN METAL HEAD GASKETS,WOULDN'T THIS PUT THE ROCKER ARM CLOSER TO THE CAM?THEN WHY DO YOU NEED LONGER PUSHRODS WHEN YOU INSTALL A BIGGER CAM THAN STOCK?YOU WOULD THINK YOU WOULD NEED A SHORTER ONE SINCE THE LOBE IS TALLER THAN STOCK AN THE ROCKER ARM IS CLOSER TO THE CAM BECAUSE OF MILLING & THINNER HEADGASKETS. while your correct! the answers not always that simple because the cam base circle dia. on the new cam is frequently a differant dia. than the stock cam and the lifter seat height varies also, it will require verifyiong the correct valve train geometry. you want the rocker to exert it force as much as possiable on the valve centerline to reduce friction and valve guide wear YOULL NEED TO CAREFULLY CHECK YOUR PARTICULAR ENGINE! heres a simple way to get close to the correct length BUY ONE OF THESE http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3567&prmenbr=361 after making sure the valve springs are correctly installed you drop the checker in place on the rocker stud and install your adjustable pushrod adjust the length to fit and measure the resulting length if its within twenty thousands of the stock length its fine for most applications, if its more than 30 thousands long or short get the closest length set available btw, if your one of the people that still does not own an adjustable push rod! you can easily make your own by cutting a stock pushrod in 1/2 (2 pieces), removeing 1 inch from the total length an then with about 2 " of a 4 inch section of 3/16 or 1/4" thread rod installed and (in one section epoxy it in place leaving about 2" sticking out thread two nuts onto the thread rod and slip on the other end of the cut pushrod,(no epoxy) use the two nuts to adjust to stock length and let the epoxy harded in the one section[/color] now you can easily measure and order custom push rods useing the pushrod checker and adjustable push rod as tools AND YEAH IT ONLY WORKS WITH THE CYLINDER HEADS ON AND THE INTAKE REMOVED BECAUSE THE HOLE IN THE CYLINDER HEAD that GUIDEs THE PUSH ROD WON,T ALLOW THE NUTS ON THE ADJUSTABLE PUSHROD TO PASS THRU, UNLESS YOU PLACE THE CUT ABOUT 1" from the UPPER END OF THE ADJUSTABLE TEST PUSHROD BUT I prefer to place the adjusting nuts centered as I like to watch for all clearances with the intake manifold removed while manually checking as I turn the engine over by hand durring assembly, and at that point, while checking all the clearances, I use test springs which apply very little load on the push rod http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3272&prmenbr=361 HERES OTHER TOOLS YOU MIGHT NEED SOMETHING TO READ http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/ CCA-7705 5.800 in. to 9.800 in. adjustment range, Master pushrod length checker 4 piece kit ... $78.69 here http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/ctrp_0611_rocker_arm_valvetrain_geometry/index.html http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/ctrp_0611_rocker_arm_valvetrain_geometry/roller_tip_rockers.html http://www.compcams.com/Technical/FAQ/ValvetrainGeometry.asp http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb50232.htm http://www.customspeedparts.de/content/en/technic/kipphebelgeometrie.php http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/camshaft_tips_definitions/index.html http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2007/12/10/rocker-arm-geometry/

my current 383 pulls about 470 flywheel hp, or more, certainly much more when I use the nitrous (Ive changed the combo slightly about a dozen times)and its got over 80k on the short block and about 45k on the orriginal distrib gear, its got minimal wear, and 35k on the current distrib gear, (Ive had over a dozen cams in the combo)but I make sure the gears well cooled and lubed keep in mind the combo was not built for max N/A hp, but decent street manors and responsive tq, and to take full use of nitrous look at this picture: The grouve is cut under the bottom (O)ring in the band just above the gear (look at the picture above, (BTW the pic shows a significantly smaller grouve than ideal)) and in line with the gears so that oil sprays on the gear contact points at all times, this is a mod most old time racers know about and use, but Im getting the idea the new guys have not picked up on it! (those two bands form the side of an oil passage in the block and the distributor shaft seals that passage, cutting the grouve sends a spray of high pressure oil onto the contact point at all times, if you dont cut the grouve your relieing on returning zero pressure oil flowing down the rear lifter gallery drain holes to lube the gears BTW the other way to do this is to grouve the block in the distributors lower band area as this keeps the location of the oil jet constant as the distributor is turned, for a full contact spray on the gears so I generally do BOTH

just some info that may or may not apply here....smoke on accelleration only generally indicates ring seal problems, on decelleration only, it tends to indicate valve seals, or worn valve guides