grumpyvette

if you want something that looks good sticking thru the hood.... Summit SUM-CWND401S $799 or if your buck$ up $3300 http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IN&Product_Code=NG1702&Category_Code=

you can easily get a well designed NON-superchharged 383-434 SBC to produce 400 rear wheel hp with or without nitrous and more with nitrous, if your like most of us LACK of MONEY and TIME in some cases are the roadblocks, youll be far better off building a reasonably mild NON-supercharged SBC of decent size with matched parts and gearing the car correctly and driving it that way 99% of the time and only when necessary engauging the nitrous for that extra 100-150 hp boost, why? the less complicated and the less parts used in the build the lower your maintinance and costs tend to be and the lower your tunning and mechanical skills need to be,its also related to cost vs performance, you can build a killer N/A sbc for under $8K thats going to run for years with few problems, adding nitrous thats rarely used won,t cost much or hurt longevity but a superchargers going to require more up front cost and more maintinance and more up-keep most PROJECTs get side tracked or never completed due to LACK of FUNDS, or purchaseing (DEALS) on mis-matched components or unrealistic goals that far exceed the available funds and skill levels, in most cases your better off sitting down and making BOTH an EXACT parts list with prices and part numbers and setting a REALISTIC BUDGET and SCHEDUAL to aquire all the components, and machine work.

adding a sizeable increase in ethanol to the fuel blend both cools the intake temps and increases the resistance to detonation,, making those boost levels useable, use enought methanol or ethanol mixed the toulene and you can run even higher boost levels

ID POINT OUT THAT IF YOUR DETERMINED TO INSTALL A SUPERCHARGER, the 144 is both far less effective and causes more hood clearance issues than the centrifical superchargers http://www.paxtonauto.com/ http://www.procharger.com/ http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/ http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article122/A-P1.htm http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article119/A-P1.htm http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article077/A-P1.htm http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article016/A16-P1.htm

theres a good bit of HP to be had relatively cheaply with nitrous,(100 hp on a STOCK SBC IS ALMOST ALWAYS NO PROBLEM WITH A WET KIT) a superchargers going to be a much more expensive deal. you can get even more with a WET nitrous kit and a matched cam thats designed for nitrous use. this might help http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/49752/

you can easily get 400 rear wheel hp from a N/A stroker combo with the fastburn heads, and you may be able to do it without premium octane fuel if your willing to put up with a lopey idle , and low vacuum for the accessories. a 383 or 396 stroker (3.75" or 3.875" stroke) rotating assembly added to your current block is one route, but if your willing to buy a complete short block you can upgrade to a 404-434sbc with a MUCH STRONGER aftermarket block, if you wanted too and gain a good deal more tq/hp ID strongly suggest buying a short block from http://www.ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html add a decent roller cam, to your combo and that engine could get you to the 400 rear wheel hp goal easily

IVE ALWAYS hated doing body,interior and detail work on cars, but enjoyed building engines, so Ive always advised getting a project car in the best LOOKING condition you can afford before starting any project, because body,interior and paint plus rust repairs can get very time consuming and expensive. IVE been looking for a CLEAN 1965 pontiac tempest or LEMANS at a decent price (preferably with no or a busted drive train) at anything close to a decent price for years

http://www.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm http://www.rustpuppy.org/ignition2/Ignition%202b.htm http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/distcurve.html http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/hei1.htm http://www.performancedistributors.com/technical.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/setting-breaker-points-spg-90.html http://www.sdsefi.com/techcomb.htm http://www.circletrack.com/howto/1842_ignition_timing_maximum_performance/index.html http://www.2quicknovas.com/happytiming.html

personaslly ID have moved away from "the peoples republic of KAILFORNIA" long ago! (at least any place south of REDDING) ALTURUS AND LIKELY are NICE

step1 get physical possession of your car back and pay the fines and towing costs before they increase! put the car in storage where its not easily located for awhile and get it running step 2 only then fight the battle, because getting your car (parted out) (LOST) or (STOLEN) or deliberatly (SABOTAGED ) is A VERY STRONG POSSIABILITY if you DON,T step 3 youll loose ....ONLY because they don,t give a crap about the cost, car or you, its all about money,....YOUR MONEY and how much of it they can force you to spend, and the longer it drags on the more of YOUR MONEY NOT THIERS gets at RISK HOW do I know, I had a radiator hose burst at 3 am, I pulled into a shell station and ask if they sold them, (they said the mechanic came in at 7 am, ask him then, I came back at 7am to find they had towed my car accross town to a differant shell station owned by his brother and now owed $175 in towing fees.....(two weeks pay in 1967)I was PISSED OFF but I PAID AND GOT THE CAR BACK, FIRST! AS I HAD SEEN TO MANY TIMES WHEN CROOKED TOW COMPANYS HAD STRIPPED CARS THEN CLAIMED THEY WERE (FOUND IN THAT CONDITION)

please keep in mind IM trying to help, increase your welding skills, here NOT find fault ID suggest turning up the amps, or a differant type and dia of rod or wire speed or what ever you need to increase the heat, looking at this.

its looking like coolant sat in the cylinder for A LONG TIME I doubt you can save the current bore size, youll most likely need to bore the block. soak all cylinders in a mix of carb cleaner and diesel fuel and liquid wrench at least over night then a few wacks with a section of 2x2 wood with a big hammer should free the piston enought to disassemble the engine, remover all the rods and pistons before removing the main caps and crank then if the lock looks salvagable take it too the local machine shop for a detailed inspection,cleaning, cam bearings and freeze plugs

WHY DO YOU FEEL THAT WAY ("My TIG welder at home is kinda holding me back") AND WHICH TIG WELDER DO YOU CURRENTLY HAVE AND WHICH TIG WELDER DO YOU WANT?

"How pissed would you be if you sold your baby only to find out it was just a tire out of balance?" or bad ball joints, or front suspension bushings, etc. you need to track it down, first get up to 60mph and turn off the engine DOES THE VIBRATION CONTINUE,? turn on the engine and put the trans in neutral or push in the clutch,DOES THE VIBRATION CONTINUE,? is the vibration CAR SPEED or ENGINE RPM related?

he probably moved quickly just as the picture was taken

ILL LOOK INTO THAT, it never hurts you to have options

IN florida you need several clear photos from differant dirrections and a certified weigh station ticket showing the weight to register a home built trailer, plus some forms filled out, it takes about an hour

Impressive!

3.5" 3/8"NC 16 thread grade 8 bolts are what most engine stands use BTW dont forget about two 3/8" fender washers under the heads of each of the bolts to prevent the bolts from pulling into the motor mount head and a 2" section of 3/8" fuel line pushed on over the bolt keeps the bolts centered and far less likely to fall out or get lost, and don,t forget to use MOLY GREASE on the tool heads rotational bearing surface allowing the motor to turn far easier Ive found these to be a decent value and far safer than the cheaper three leg stands http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47304 stands like this, are just begging to get you seriously hurt

btw one little thing to remember is leave clearance for an extension and socket or wrench to access the bolts or better yet install nuts on the studs in the block that secure the oil pan rails to the block, if you can,t access the fasteners with the engine installed in the car its a P.I.T.A.

having some skills ,a few hours with a decent welder, some poster board and tape for a pattern and some 14 ga sheet steel are about all thats keeping that pan you have from holding 7-9 qt capacity one of my more creative friends buys two of these at the ,local mill surplus http://www.armysurplusworld.com/product.asp?ProductID=921 and cuts and welds them into the sides of stock oil pans after careful measurement for clearance to headers,starter, frame etc, to form two extended horizontal side sump extensions that save him some welding time, he says you can,t buy the steel alone for that price let alone get the sump partly pre-welded but theres good deals available if you don,t weld, and don,t have a stock oil pan to start with as a base http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=7101R&line=WYS but TAKE the time to mock it up and measure clearances carefully with the engine,exhaust, starter ,, oil filter,etc in the car to prevent having to make extensive mods after you start

look thru these there ARE significant differances... http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html http://www.aloha34.com/information/oilfiltertable.pdf http://www.guarding-our-earth.com/dealers/amsoil/crossreference.shtml http://www.pureoil.com/ProductFinder.aspx?action=IG personally I avoid FRAM , AND mostly use WIX,PURALATOR, MOBILE 1 filters but if you change your oil every 3500-4000 miles its far less critical

for your application its makes no real differance which pump you go with as long as you carefully clearance the oil pump pickups lower surface at 3/8"-1/2" off the oil pan floor, the oil pickups fine its main job is to limit crap entering the pump and it will flow plenty of oil, Id use what ever pump the pan came with or the manufacturer suggested with the standard bye-pass spring. after installing the engine in the car you might want to look closely at your options and clearances. personally ID have NEVER selleced a 4 qt pan, theres lots of shallow road clearance pans with good capacity http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP100LT&line=MWM theres also kits to build extended sumps http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D21950&N=700+115&autoview=sku Moroso 21950

I and several of my friends have purchased a few car trailers that needed some repairs at a very good price, I got my current trailer at a yard sale from a guy that lost his job here,and was moving back up to GA. It looked like crap but on close inspection it could be repaired reasonably, most of the problems were cosmedic, like bent fenders, broken lights, needing paint, etc. It was not for sale, at the time but I left my ph# and he called. he at first asked for twice what I evenually paid for it, and even with the repairs it was a decent deal. so its not impossiable to go that route "As far as loading a non-running vehicle onto a trailer, that's what winches are for!" http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33003 or if you want to get fancy http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91905

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/165373/post/1228322/hl/post/fromsearch/1/#1228322 theres INFO in this thread that will help, basically a GOOD twp post makes working on the car easier a 4 post makes storing the car far easier