grumpyvette

what do you feel is the best/easy to use/accurate diagnostic software you can buy to install on a laptop computer to find/fix codes OBD1 and OBD2 IM looking for a software package with connector cables too install on my new laptop computer to diagnose OBD I and OBD II and other car related ,problems similar to the below scanners but preferably with connections /software for a a/f meter and more features and hopefully at a similar or lower price??? http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/rennacs/'>http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/rennacs/ http://www.levineautoparts.com/autez50obdii.html http://www.levineautoparts.com/accpsuau.html http://www.autotap.com/ http://216.230.203.183/cgi-bin/startpg.pl/page=home.html/SID=0/mail=1 http://www.rinda.com/auto/auto.htm http://www.troublecodes.net/ ANY IDEAS GUY???whats worked and whats junk on the market??

btw read these (yeah its another old post but theres some good info) http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.btinternet.com/~mezporting/exhaust_length.html http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0310phr_burns/ http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechArticles/Theory/theory.html the short answer is ANY BACK PRESSURE IS BAD! what your trying to do with a correctly designed exhaust is to have the majority of the exhaust system act like extended collectors on the headers, in effect useing the inertia of the hot exhaust pulses from each cylinder to cause a cyclic low pressure wave to be timed to assist the next firing cylinders to scavage the cylinders heres the info you need, http://www.enjoythedrive.org/content/?ID=26046 http://www.enjoythedrive.org/content/?id=10185 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm to adjust for your altitude http://rshelq.home.sprynet.com/density_altitude.htm and if you want to get it perfect you should usr your DYNAMIC COMPRESSION RATIO VOLUME in the formula at the rpms for peak hp that your engine makes http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html most of the time that comes out close to the same as the static cylinder volume at the peak torque f.y.i. LET ME ASK THIS QUESTION? WHATS THE FIRST THING YOU DO AT THE TRACK TO YOUR EXHAUST SYSTEM? you open the headers to have less back pressure correct!! BACK PRESSURE IS BAD, BAD,BAD, the idea has gotten around that you need back pressure to build torque, FALSE!!!!!! that IDEA was prevalent because if you stick too large of an exhaust pipe on a low rpm engine it loses the ability to scavage the cylinders with the exhaust gas pulse in the exhaust with stock exhaust manifolds, some how the old wifes tale got around that you needed back pressure...FALSE.. what you need was EFFECTIVE CYLINDER SCAVAGEING which the smaller tail pipe dia. was provideing by acting like the collector on a set of headers! if you have headers , especially full length headers with a merge type collector OF THE CORRECT LENGTH,you can,t make the exhaust too large,THINK ABOUT IT! the first thing you do at the track is un-cork your headers....why? because YEARS OF TESTING PROVES, less BACK PRESSURE MAKES MORE HP WITH HEADERS!!!! now some one is saying yeah but thats at the track and your running the engine at 5000rpm-6500rpm , well true and a good point because we typically only run 1000rpm-3000rpm on the street what it shows clearly is the collector on a low rpm engine needs to be about 10ft long for max effect so you need an exhaust that works with a collector thats about 20" long at 6000rpm and one 10 feet long at idle, THATS WHERE THE IDEA OF TOO LARGE A EXHAUST comes from but as long as you follow these rules youll be fine, READ THIS, http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm btw Im writeing this like this to get you guys to think about it then we will look into the answers of how to get both ends of the rpm range covered and yes Im leaveing out some info on purpose is exhaust back pressure killing performance ? its a fast easy test that needs to be done and more than a few cars running older cats are having a restricted exhaust thats hurting your performance badly, and because the problem tends to build up slowly many people don,t notice the gradual power loss first thing youll need to realize is that the TEST POINT needs to be after the header collector and in front of the CAT AND MUFFLERS. next thing you need to know is that to get a valid answer youll need to have a long connector hose so someone in the pass seat can CLOSELY WATCH the gauge as you accelerate under load (FLOOR THE CAR THRU THE FIRST 1-2 GEARS and watch the pressure surge. readings above 1psi mean somethings partly restricted, readings above 3psi are hurting your performance BADLY the test kit is about $50.00 http://www.jdsdiagnostic.com/eptspage.htm ITS NOT RARE TO LOOSE 20% or more of your hp to a restricted cat your unlikely to lose much if any hp especially if you install an (H) pipe just before the reduction in tail pipe dia. and use a gradual reducer to change from 3' to 2.5" mostly because the exhaust gases have cooled a great deal by the time they reach that point in your exhaust system and with that heat loss a reduction in voluum and potential back pressure http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1313&prmenbr=361 http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1306&prmenbr=361

heres an old post that may help, YES you NEED TO READ ALL THE SUB LINKS and USE THE CALCULATORS...and the collector size predicted is always too large in dia. try for a collector size of about twice to two and one half the sq inch area of the primairy,tubes ...if the primairys are 1.65" with a 2.14 sq inch cross sectional area, thats NOT a 3" collector with its 7 sq inch area its a 2.25" to 2.5" collector a 2.5" collector with its 4"-5" sq inch area http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.majer-tech.com.pl/Exaust_Theory.htm http://www.btinternet.com/~mezporting/exhaust_length.html http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/flomstr1e.htm http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=8&s=127&p=608&searchtype=ecat&l=FLO http://www.headersbyed.com/chevsbv8.htm http://www.stainlessworks.net/Header%20Flanges.htm http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20Flanges.htm http://www.headersbyed.com/hdrkits.htm http://www.cachassisworks.com/header.htm http://www.mazdatrix.com/fabricators.htm Ive tried to stay out of this but I might as well jump in and get involvedIve done this many times its not that hard. heres what I do, get some of that plastic smurf tubeing in the 2" dia size and some ceiling hanger wire and some of that hard set constuction insulation foam. now weld 1" stubs of the exhaust tube to the header flange exhaust ports and bolt it to the cylinder heads. clamp the collectors to a 6 foot section of 2x6" wood and jack it up solid under the car (collectors not touching the car anywhere)to position them where you want them under the car, now cut (8) sections of smurf tubeing too about 36"-42" long(theres a formula to figure the exact length)slide 4-6 pieces of ceiling suspension wire in each tube with the ends looped over inside the tube. now startin with the upper inside collector position and the rear exhaust port, bend and fit the smurf tubeing to fit, the next forward exhaust port goes to the lower inside collector port the next exhaust to the upper outside collector port and the furthest forward to the lower outside collector port , once they are all bent to fit shoot the tubes full of hardening construction foam, let it harden and then pull each individual tube off one at a time and duplicate it in steel tubeing,(or have your local muffler shop duplicate it) this method REALLY makes the fit and try time minimal. and assures equal length tube headers.SMURF TUBE is flexable plastic electrical conduit thats normally BLUE or ORANGE and COMMONLY called smurf tubeing by contractors its a plastic version of that metal GREENFIELD tubeing that electrical contractors use but its cheaper and easier to work with, it resembles a canister type vacuum cleaner pickup hose but stiffer, its available at big hardware stores,and electrical supply houses dirt cheap in 10' lengths about $6 each or les you will need (3)BTW the 4-6 wires act like rebar in concrete, the loops keep the wires from moveing in the foam while their incased in the construction foam, the hard plastic foam is what keeps it stiff and no it will not be exact you will still need to tweak it to get it to fit but it will speed up the process of making the tube pattern shapes. just keep in mind that you can buy headers fairly cheaply (under $300 in many cases) for most cars its when you go and get an odd ball combo this comes in handy, like putting a 502bbc in a 57 vette or a 392 hemi in a 63 falcon, or you need headers for a LS1 in you 67 camaroHERES INFO YOU CAN USE http://www.headersbyed.com/hdrkits.htm heres a quick way to figure your true primairy tube length (use 1250f degs(950k) and 5000rpm for race cars, 1200 degs(922K) and 3000rpm for street cars ) if you want other temps look here heres a quick cross check or if your really lazy and the answers in meters (about39"=1 meter) but if you just use 36"-40" it will just move your tuned rpm level up or down slightly, not enough to make much differance except on a very peaky engine combo in a very light car.and this assumes your tube dia. is the same size as your exhaust port size.(never smaller, slightly larger dia. is ok) btw mild steel is much easier to work with than stainless the pipes should be slightly oversized rather than so small that they partially block the exhaust port. a pipe dia. that is small enought to partly block the exhaust port can hurt the cylinder scavageing by causeing turbulance and restrictions at the port exit, while a primary tube size slightly larger than the port leaves a ledge that partly retards returning pressure waves from reduceing the scavageing effect,...USE THE CALCULATOR PROGRAMS THATS WHAT THEY ARE THERE FORand keep in mind the displacement and rpm levels effect the dia. and length of both the primaries and collectors, these MUST VARY IN DIA. and LENGTH TO MATCH THE ENGINES EXHAUST PULSE TIMEING so that a NEGATIVE PRESSURE WAVE WILL BE CORRECTLY TIMED to SCAVAGE THE CYLINDERS EFFICIENTLY at the desired rpm range if you want other temps look here heres a quick cross check ( (btw its not((Degrees ATDC)they mean subtract the BBDC from 180 degs. then use the answer and the rpm level should be picked for the expected torque peak [ or if your really lazy and the answers in meters (about 39"=1 meter example , my 383 vette has a cam with exhaust cam timing that opens at 83degs bbdc, thats 97 degs atdc, Bore: (Inches) 4.03" Exhaust Valve Opening Point: (Degrees ATDC) 97 degs Peak Power RPM: 5500rpm Calculated information appears below Header Pipe Diameter: (Inches) 1.84"< Header Pipe Length: (Inches) 37.65 Collector Diameter: (Inches) 3.5 (according to the calcs but use a 2.5" dumping into a 3" exhaust,where the collector extends a few inches inside the 3" exhaust, the step helps block reversion pulses and help scavaging Collector Length: (Inches) 18.82

personally ID use JUST quality oil and a quality filter, Ive found the mobile 1 synthetic oil Im useing will be fine, I have always added a pint of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL to my oil but thats due to testing I did that showed it tended to reduce rust forming if I don,t run the engine for weeks at a time. MARVEL MYSTERY OIL is just a HIGH DETERGENT OIL, not an additive! changing your oil FREQUENTLY and using a QUALITY oil filter is the best protection your engine can get! read these http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html#recommended http://www.synlube.com/oilfilters.htm http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/oilprime.html just a thought here, we have all seen those little gear/crank displays that you crank on the parts counter shelfs at the auto parts stores that show the oil stabilizer tends to make the oil cling to the rotating gears, well if thats how it works think about how the crank spinning may trap/control a good amount of the engines oil slowing its return to the sump at higher RPMS, (JUST WHAT ID SUSPECT YOU DON,T WANT) read this, its interesting http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm your thoughts GUYS???

305240 if your going to run SIDE PIPE exhaust like the COBRAS and SOME CORVETTES used , (I had them on my 496 BBC corvette)adding a ballance pipe (H)between the sides just after the header collectors tends to mellow the exhaust tone, and you usually won,t have many other options due to space/packaging limitations with side exhaust, if you look at most glass pack insert mufflers youll see that they consist of a metal tube with hundreds of louvers cut directionally wrapped in a fiberglass blanket inside an outer metal cover with all the louvers facing the ecpected exhaust flow direction. this tends to restrict flow slightly and does not help hp, an old trick is to insert them (the inserts )backwards, so the louvers face towards the exit, this usually shows slight hp gains and surprizingly does not make a big differance in noise levels. you may want to look over the spiral baffels,like Graeme pointed out, btw heres a differant source/design http://www.spiralturbobaffles.com/ heres a picture of a similar set to what my corvette had I had a custom welded 2.5" pipe stubs welded /connector clamped between the collectors, NO ITS NOT A CURE BUT IT HELPS MELLOW the TONE SLIGHTLY..........you may also want to consider a layer of sound/heat reflecting material

I will try to answer that as simply as possiable. http://mb-soft.com/public2/engine.html below are two extremely similar cams, both have identical lift and duration, only the LSA differs this one is considered better with nitrous http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browsePar...rtType=camshaft this one better N/A http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browsePar...rtType=camshaft why?? well look closely, the 114681 has its exhaust valve open at 77 degrees BBDC, the 110921 has the exhaust valve open at 70 degrees BBDC, thus the 114681 starts to bleed off cylinder pressure 7 degrees sooner a N/A engine runs on a fuel air mix ratio of between 12.7:1 to 14.7:1, oxygen content of normal air is aproximately 20% nitrous has aproximately TWICE the oxygen content at about 40% and can effectively burn up to twice the fuel per cylinder full, now that produces a great deal higher pressures and a huge increase in exhaust voluum, that extra voluum produced the extra pressure that makes the power possiable but it can also cause significant PUMPING LOSSES if the pressure in the cylinders does not drop off before the piston starts back up on the exhaust stroke and can limit the intake charge voluum flowing into the cylinders if theres still possitive cylinder pressure as the intake valve opens. the intake valve opends at 29 degrees BTDC with the #114681 it opens at 34 degrees with the #110921,(5 degrees sooner) that makes the differance 5 degrees later opening for the #114681, this is not a problem when your filling the cylinders with the enriched nitrous/fuel mix this effectively allows a greater time for the exhaust possitive pressure to blow off and less overlap time when both valves are open at the same time. the later intake valve opening, matched to the lower overlap and earlier exhaust valve opening lowers the engines pumping losses when useing nitrous,gains of 30 hp plus have been shown swapping from the N/A to the NITROUS design WHEN ON NITROUS, but look for a few less hp running N/A with the nitrous cam simply because the nitrous cam does not scavage the cylinders as effectively due to lower overlap N/A at high rpms these are the valve timeing overlap ranges that are most likely to work correctly trucks/good mileage towing 10-35 degs overlap daily driven low rpm performance 30-55degs overlap hot street performance 50-75 degs overlap oval track racing 70-95degs overlap dragster/comp eliminator engines 90-115 degs overlap but all engines will need the correct matching dcr for those overlap figures to correctly scavage the cylinders in the rpm ranges that apply to each engines use range. example http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114681&B1=Display+Card here is a hot street cam that works great in many 383 camaros with at least 10.5 static cpr with 3.5-4.1 gears now the timeing is intake opens 29.0 btdc, closes 71.0 abdc exhaust opens 77.0 bbdc, closes 31.0 atdc so if we add the 29 to the 31 we get the overlap duration of 60 degs of which makes this cam fall in the center of HOT STREET short answer, 110 LSA if its a engine used mostly at high RPM, 112 LSA if its street driven (need more info,..look below) read these lessons (#1-8) http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/3.htm The LSA, or lobe separation angle, is ground into the cam and cannot be changed. It is the angle that separates the intake and exhaust lobe for a particular cylinder, and is measured in camshaft degrees. The intake lobe centerline is measured in crankshaft degrees. The #1 intake lobe centerline is usually between 100° to 110° ATDC and is what you use to degree the cam. The cam manufacturer will publish the specs for the cam based on a given intake lobe centerline. Comp Cams, for instance, produces a large number of cams with 110*° LSA ground 4° advanced, so they list the specs for the cam with a 106° intake lobe centerline. You can calculate the ILC by adding the intake opening angle in °BTDC, the intake closing angle in °ABDC, plus 180° for the distance from TDC to BDC. Divide by 2 and subtract the intake opening angle and you will have the ILC. For example a 12-430-8 Comp Cam lists IO at 34°BTDC, IC at 66° ATDC, so 34 + 66 + 180 = 280. 280/2 = 140. 140 - 34 = 106° ILC Figure 3 is a picture of both an intake and an exhaust lobe of a camshaft, seen end-on. It shows the relationship between the lobes, shows the overlap area, and illustrates this next section. As stated in lesson 2, overlap has a great deal to do with overall engine performance. Small overlap makes low-end torque but less high-end power. Large overlap reduces low-end torque but increases high-end power. Overlap is determined by two other cam specifications, Duration and Lobe Center Angle. Duration is the time, measured in crankshaft degrees, that a valve is open. A duration of 204 degrees means that while the valve is open, the crankshaft rotates through 204 degrees. Duration is measured on two "standards," "advertised duration" and "duration at 0.050"." Advertised duration is measured from when the valve just starts to lift off its seat to when it just touches the seat again. This is measured in different ways by different manufacturers. Some measure when the valve lifter is raised 0.004", some at 0.006", and some at different points yet. So the industry agreed to another standard that was supposed to make it easier to compare cams. In this standard, the duration is measured between the point where the lifter is raised by 0.050", and the point where it is lowered again to 0.050". The 0.050" standard is great for side-by-side "catalog" comparisons between cams. But if you use engine prediction software on your computer, the software is much more accurate when you can feed it "advertised" duration numbers. Lobe Center Angle is the distance in degrees between the centers of the lobes on the camshaft. To increase duration, cam makers grind the lobes wider on the base circle of the cam. This makes the lobes overlap each other more, increasing overlap. More duration = more overlap. To increase overlap without changing duration, cam makers will grind the lobes closer together, making a smaller lobe center angle. Less lobe center angle = more overlap. Overlap and duration are the two big factors in cam design. More overlap moves the power band up in the engine's RPM range. Longer duration keeps the valves open longer, so more air/fuel or exhaust can flow at higher speeds. It works out that increasing the duration of the camshaft by 10 degrees moves the engine's power band up by about 500 rpm. A smaller lobe separation increases overlap, so a smaller lobe separation angle causes the engine's torque to peak early in the power band. Torque builds rapidly, peaks out, then falls off quickly. More lobe separation causes torque to build more slowly and peak later, but it is spread more evenly over the power band. So a larger lobe separation angle creates a flatter torque curve. So you can see how a cam maker can tailor the camshaft specs to produce a particular power band in an engine-- Short duration with a wide separation angle might be best for towing, producing a strong, smooth low-end torque curve. Long duration with a short separation angle might be suited for high-rpm drag racing, with a high-end, sharp torque peak. Moderate duration with wide separation angle might be best suited for an all-around street performance engine, producing a longer, smoother torque band that can still breathe well at higher RPM. Remember, there's always a compromise made in this process. One last item to consider is the lobe centerline. The lobe centerline is the angle of the lobe's center peak, measured in crankshaft degrees when the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC). In general (but not always), when a cam is installed "straight up," the intake lobe centerline and the lobe separation angle are the same. The lobe centerline can be altered when the camshaft is installed, by advancing or retarding the camshaft's position in relation to the crankshaft. Advancing the camshaft by 4 degrees will move the power band about 200 RPM lower in the RPM band. Retarding the cam by 4 degrees will likewise move the power band 200 RPM higher in the RPM band. This allows you to fine-tune the engine's performance according to your needs. if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (read LESSONs 1-8) http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://www.n2performance.com/lecture1.shtml http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html

I forget some of the new guys don,t know the basics, I got asked whats the differance between a flexplate or a flywheel. flywheels are used to mount clutches on manual trans cars flexplates are used to mount torque converters on auto trans cars the differance between the 153 and 168 tooth size in a flexplate or flywheel is the diameter , small VS large both a flexplate and a flywheel have a ring gear to allow the starter to spin the engine over to start it the 168 is generally prefered BUT be aware that there are a few rare applications where the 168 will cause clearance problems with the trans case or starter in some combos, it would be a good idea in many cases to stay with the size that came with the transmission and starter your using, also be aware that some aftermarket high torque starters have dual mounting holes to accept/(work with) either flexplate diam. and give max header clearance,( header heat and starters don,t play well together) but some starters will only work with a single diam.,since high torque starters can get expensive and header clearances can get tight thats something to think about keep in mind the clearances your working with and that mini starters are comonly set up to work with either size, but some clutches and torque converters will only fit on the larger size and some bellhouseing will only fit the smaller size, ask questions, everything must match the application and clearances the 168 tooth flexplate/flywheels are a larger dia. but MANY bellhousings will fit either one and headers are NORMALLY designed to clear either size, and yeah, you may need a high torque mini starter with over 10:1 cpr, and the mini-starters use a gear reduction to increase torque to the flexplate, usually between 3:1 and 4:1 that more than make up for the smaller motor size.and some headers do cause clearance problems with the stock starter.many starters work WITH EITHER SIZE FLEXPLATE/FLYWHEEL, many mini-starters also allow you to index or clock the starter for maximum header clearance. and add or remove them without removing the headers unlike the stock starters, so keep that in mind keep in mind stock starters are HEAVY and you save weight, get additional; clearance and usually gain effective starter torque due to the mini-starters being geared to aid leverage Id suggest getting a starter with the dual bolt pattern that fits both size flexplate/flywheels http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=86595&prmenbr=361

things to keep in mind,usually I suggest going with the largest displacement you can easily afford, but if your using a turbo several factors like head gasket sealing area and cooling are just as important, Id suggest using a 4 bolt 350 style block for the extra coolant flow between the cylinder walls and the extra head gasket seal area, but Id still point out that a 3.75" stroke (383) or even a 3.875" stroke crank(396) to increase the displacement has benefits. youll have a faster building torque curve due to the larger displacement, and you won,t need to spin it as high before the boost cuts in, or your making significant power, remember that valve train control problems can kill an engine and most valve train control problems can be minimized if you stay under about 6500rpm, and its far more comon to have lower end problems at high rpms than lower in the rpm range. pay a good deal of attention to building a well thought thru OIL CONTROL STATEM with a baffled high capacity oil pan,windage tray/screen and SYNTHETIC OIL you want turbo info? this will get you started http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html http://www.racetep.com/size.html http://www.airflowresearch.com/ (articles)-(1000 HP 383 ci AFR 210 cc ) http://www.turbomustangs.com/turbotech/main.htm http://www.montygwilliams.com/ http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compression.htm http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcompB.html http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/turbochargers.pdf http://www.turbocharged.com/main.htm

http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=details&P_id=384 http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=details&P_id=383 http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chevy http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=306102&prmenbr=361 you guys that want to build a high rpm 302 and can,t ever find the correct pistons or cylinder heads may find this of interest, with the correct solid lifter cam and high cpr pistons and the new platinum high flow cylinder heads a 302 chevy could be built that would push some serious hp , why you would not build a 383 that made even more I don,t know, but if your an RPM freak, you could build one hell of a high rpm combo

in many cases the (DRONE) is a SYMPATHETIC HARMONIC RESENANCE FREQUENCY that feeds from the engine exhaust pulses at a specific rpm frequency,and is amplified by the muffler design. on most corvettes it falls in the 1600rpm-2200rpm band, above and below its noticably lower,as the exhaust won,t vibrate at a matching level, if you modify the pulse frequency by adding an (X) as close to the headers as it can fit and an (H)pipe, just before the muffler enterance with the tail pipe extending past the rear bumper theres a noticable reduction in that (DRONE) WHAT ID DO FIRST AS IT HELPS CHANGE THE FLOW AND REDUCE RESTRICTION because youve altered the frequency reaching the muffler, high enough that its not entered untill much higher rpms are reached than normal street driving uses. you can also break up the pulse strength by adding these inside the collectors but INSTALLING the (X) which you have alreadyand (H) pipe must still be used for the full effect which you don,t appear to have now keep in mind minor changes in exhaust length or cross flow or breaking the pulse strength, can make noticable improvements, and about any changes move the freq level in relation to the RPM adding 2" to the exhaust tip can even effect the harmonics, but realize that the effective length is from the back of the exhaust valves to the center of the (X) not all the way to the tail pipe. 1800rpms equates to an exhaust freq wave length of about 4.7" so a 2" change in effective length should be noticable,example placing the (H) a mulitple of 4.7" would have little effect, placing it at a mulitple of 4.7" plus 2" would have a noticable effect http://www.spiralturbobaffles.com/ http://www.secureperformanceorder.c...tore/vortex.cfm Exhaust Drone Submitted by: Richard Kwarciany Drone in the exhaust is due to the engine driving the exhaust system at its resonant frequency. You can't get rid of it, any length of pipe has a natural frequency, but you can change the frequency (RPM) it happens at. Stock exhaust systems are tuned to put the resonant frequencies outside the normal RPM range the engine is run in. Sometimes they add resonators for this purpose. To raise the resonant frequency of a system, shorten its length. To do this, you can try tail pipes that exit by the wheel (like GN's have), or you can try a muffler with a shorter internal flow path. If you have a true dual system, you can change the natural frequency of the system dramatically by adding a balance tube. If you can't shorten the system, then you can add slightly less than one wavelength of pipe. This will also raise the resonant frequency of the system. The wavelength in a single converter system (not true dual) is a little less than three feet at 3000 RPM. Shortening the system by a foot or so will move a resonance at 2000 RPM to about 3000 RPM. To move a resonance, calculate the wavelength at the RPM that gives the resonance you want to move. Then calculate the wavelength at the RPM you would rather it be at. The difference is the length of pipe you need to add or delete. Add to lower the RPM, delete to raise it. If you want to raise it but you can't cut any pipe out, then add one wavelength of pipe minus the amount you calculated. This will have the same affect. If you add or subtract a multiple of a wavelength exactly, you will not change the resonant RPM. Wavelength = 1100 X 60 X 1/RPM X 1/4 X 1/2 or Wavelength = 8250 / RPM Wavelength = standing wavelength 1100 = speed of sound in air in feet per second 60 = convert RPM to Revs per second RPM = RPM 1/4 = four cylender firings per revolution (make this 1/2 for "true dual") 1/2 = standing wavelength is half the wavelength of a "normal" wave

"how's the quality of Motown stuff?" on the blocks/heads Ive used the quality was fine! (generally BETTER than G.M. chevy) the average all iron Chevy big block V8 685 lbs Mark IV the average all iron Chevy small block V8 575 lbs you save about 65 -70lbs with an aluminum block and about 40 lbs with aluminum heads, 20 or better with an aluminum intake and about 7-8 lbs with an aluminum water pump on a big block combo so swapping to aluminum block,heads,intake and water pump could get you at or even below a iron sbc engine weight http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html

IM sure if you do a careful cost comparison youll find that an aluminum block and heads will cost you about $2500-$3000 more than a similar quality all iron engine combo that weights in at about 150-200-lbs heavier now on the surface that wasted money in many peoples eyes, but when you take into account the better quality finish,ease of porting,and less tendency to detonate at high compression ratios,ease of repair when damaged ,ability to be welded, far easier than cast iron, much better cooling, high quality steel cylinder sleeves, plus the weight savings make the extra costs much easier to accept btw your compareing apples and oranges with a stock iron block vs a aftermarket aluminum block, an aftermarket iron block costs about $2200,VS the aluminum block at about $3700, thats a differance of about $1500, and well worth the cost differance IF YOU CAN USE THOSE ADVANTAGES

http://www.herbertperformance.com/performance/34.html World Products Merlin-X Aluminum Blocks Engine Block, Aluminum, 4-Bolt Mains, 4.490 in. Bore, 2-Piece Rear Main Seal, Chevy, Big Block, Tall Deck,Ea $3695 plus shipping two heads, about $2700 complete rotating assembly about $2000-$2500 cam/valvetrain, about $900- $1200 carb/intake about $700-$1200 bearings/rings $400 rockers/pushrods $550 aluminum water pump $150 valve covers $50 oil pan $376 oil pickup/pump $70 misc $1500 Id suspect youll run around $11000-$14000 depenging on what youll have currently lying around and what work you can do yourself.. and it could run far less, if you already have lots of bbc parts in the shop like I do keep in mind it costs almost the same to build a 572, 605, or 632 big block! I know I could assembly it in that price range and Im reasonabluy sure WORLD PRODUCTS could do it even cheaper they currently sell a 540 engine for under $9000, swapping to a aluminum block/heads should cost less than $2400 -$3500 extra as the price differance falls under that for the parts

"Economical and Affordable are relative terms when appliied here..." OH SO,VERY TRUE! but I frequently see guys spend $8,000-$12,000 on a sbc without getting even close to the results in TQ/HP that a good BBC combo could have given them, and yeah! the engine compartment may not fit and youll need more mods!, but an all alumuinum BBC of lets say 540 cid with 700 plus hp/tq numbers N/A is one impressive goal thats really not hard to reach if your WALLET STOPS SCREAMING

new big block CHEVY parts now make it potentiall possiable to have a 700 HP N/A engine that weights LESS than an IRON SMALL BLOCK http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg7.pdf http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg23.pdf http://www.worldcastings.com/docs/05_cat_pg27.pdf now it does not take much thought to figure out that an all aluminum BBC that weights LESS than an iron small block with 80cc chamber heads that flow 400cfm plus is slightly cheaper potential idea now, and with flat top pistons high compression combos are easy now (11.2:1 with typical flat top pistons on a 496 stroker without a domed piston)

thanks! always interesting to read about a differant way of looking at some items listed

http://www.diamondracing.net/cocalc.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/compressionratio.htm heres an old post that will help its obvious some of the guys on this site need to understand the differance between static and dynamic compression ratios, and thats understandable as its a difficult concept to grasp at first but you need to understand it before selecting a combos components the differance between STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO AND DYNAMIC COMPRESSION RATIO is where the piston is in the cylinder when the valves close and the piston can accually start compressing the REMAINING VOLUUM IN THE CYLINDER VS the STATIC COMPRESSION THAT ASSUMES THE PISTON STARTS COMPRESSING THE INSTANT IT LEAVES BOTTOM DEAD CENTER AND STARTS UPWARD ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE! let me try and explain, the short version is that the PISTON COMPRESSES NOTHING untill BOTH VALVES ARE CLOSED, .......thats the only compression ratio that matters,.... since its the only compression ratio the engine ever sees. static compression is simply the differance between the cylinder volume at BOTTOM DEAD CENTER(BDC) and its compressed volume at TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC), into the combustion chambers,... dynamic compression takes into account that on the pistons upward compression stroke the valves have not yet closed and nothing gets compressed by the piston untill they do, that of course depends on the cam and rockers, pistons and connecting rods, the cylinder voluum, the rod/stroke ratio, ETC.,used, in the combo, and the rpm levels to some extent BTW, ALUMINUM HEADS can usually operate at a higher dynamic compression simply because ALUMINUM releases heat to the coolant much faster than iron, its the lower heat levels that remain in the cylinder that help prevent detonation..when you increase the dynamic compression the heat levels in the heads combustion chamber rise , the differance in the RATE heat leaves the cylinder allows a slightly higher dynamic compression level from aluminum before the same HEAT levels are REACHED & MAINTAINED in the combustion chambers heres a calculator for static cpr, which you need to figure first http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/compressionratio.htm let me point out a few things first look at this chart http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf then lets assume your 350 sbc engine has a static compression ratio of 11:1 but youve installed this cam http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114681&B1=Display+Card looking at the cam specs we see that the effective stroke is not the 3.48" that the static compression ratio is measured from ,at BDC, BUT from about 2.6 inches from tdc where the valves close as the piston moves upward, so your true working compression is closer to 8.1:1 NOT 11:1 heres a longer more detailed explanation and access to the software to figure dynamic cpr with the cam your useing in your engine http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html keep in mind that you can easilly run a stattic compressio of 11:1 with aluminum heads if you keep the cam timing in a range so that the DYNAMIC COMPRESSION is CLOSE TO 8:1 take the time to understand the concept,it VERY IMPORTANT read this http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/otto-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?acti...3117842f4eb4c49 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/piston_position-c.htm http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.html#2003 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...true#Post397334 if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (read LESSONs 1-8) http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298/ http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...true#Post200511 http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm ] http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://www.aera.org/Members/EngineTech/engine.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do! http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...F8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...2699400-6836852 . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

its begining to sound like a toasted ignition module

that 4 wire sensor is much more likely to be an IAC (idle air control)

BIG BLOCK SMALL BLOCK they are two totally differant designs, big block chevy FACTORY PRODUCED sizes from 366-572 are available, weight tends to run about 100-150 lbs more than a small block and the basic engine is about 2" taller.2"wider and 2"longer than a small block small blocks chevy FACTORY PRODUCED sizes from 266-400 are available http://www.performanceunlimited.com/documents/engineweights.html http://www.performanceunlimited.com/documents/enginedimensions.html short block 4- bolt main block with 1-piece rear main seal, 5.700" P/M rods, and nodular iron crankshaft. Fully assembled - less cam, lifters and timing set,, oil pan,damper,flywheel, heads,intake, timing cover, water pump. long block in addition to short block a long block normally includes heads,cam,valvetrain,timing cover, and oil pan. still missing is a waterpump,damper,flywheel,intake, carb,distributor,exhaust manifolds, ETC. deluxe crate engine,("TURN KEY") complete DELUXE crate engines normally include most of the missing parts

things to check many engines have a LOW oil pressure cut off switch that cuts power to the coil if the oil pressures not 7 psi minimum your ignition switch may be defective? the wire from the starter that ffeds the coil may be incorrectly hooked up? your coil may be bad or not correctly wired? do you have 12 volts AT THE COIL? links that may help http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/trouble/ignition.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine11.htm http://www.lotuselancentral.com/timing.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/timing.asp http://www.amxfiles.com/resource/tech/timing.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp http://msdignition.com/1troubleshoot.htm http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=28 http://www.centuryperformance.com/point_settings.asp http://www.centuryperformance.com/point_settings.asp#TROUBLESHOOTING http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97438/index1.html http://abbysenior.com/mechanics/ignition.htm http://hometown.aol.com/dvandrews/timing.htm http://www.driveline-uk.com/FAQ/Faq_Timing.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/point_settings.asp http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/distcurve.html http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/hei.htm http://mantaproject.com/hei7wire.html?POSTNUKESID=fd5fdfebe88245bcf80c3425a6a7d52d http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/trouble/ignition.htm http://www.type2.com/~bartnik/timing.htm

if its JUST a head gasket ID replace it with a thicker composite gasket (simply to avoid bad feelings between you guys...and yeah, if the engine blows durring the first few hours its going to look like YOU KNEW it was about to blow and sold it KNOWING THAT) btw thinking that the head gasket will blow before damage to the pistons is wishful thinking......while it may blow, deonation almost always causes damage to the pistons also by the time the gasket blows out

first be aware your problem (his problem) may NOT be a blown head gasket, don,t assume it IS! it may be a cracked block,cylinder head, broken rocker stud or dozens of differand problems, MANY of which he may have caused by total stupidity like over reving the engine, or turning up the boost,using low octane fuel, changing the ignition timing,ETC. yeah, your going to need to check carefully and may be paying for his stupid opperation of the engine! if a rod/piston smacked a valve durring excessive rpm opperational induced valve float youll also have coolant in the cylinders if the bent valve cracked the head!!! if a rod came loose same potential problems and NO! Im sure HE WILL NEVER ADMIT HE CAUSED THE PROBLEM! even thought HE would need to be a total idiot to knot know he over reved the engine

that longer pedal (accellerator) can be depressed to a lesser extent to lower the engines output significantly.......I had a corvette a few years back with a full roller 13.7:1 compression 496 injected big block chevy with direct port nitrous injection that put out ( Ill say ,well in excess of 600 rear wheel hp (you would not beleive the real numbers) I drove that on the street occasionally with no problems not getting the rpms above about 3500rpm and not hitting the nitrious or the secondary fuel pump and useing your skills as a driver made the differance between laying twin 14" wide black rubber tracks for hundreds of feet or just rumbling along with the engine between 1200rpm idle and short shifting at 3500 rpm with the pedal barely depressed

http://ohiocrank.com/short.html these guys sell a very reasonably priced 454 SBC short block assembly, for $4000 useing the far stronger and better cooling aftermarket Motown block,ETC. you can hardly build it yourself at that price http://www.worldcastings.com/newstuff3.shtml 4.250 x 4.00 Motown block 4340 4" steel block 6.0 4340 H-beam piston Internally balanced World Aluminum Block add $1500 450hp/550 ft lbs should be very easy