Sparky

Mikelly is a wise, wise man. scotty, i spent four years of my life trying to make a girl happy. when i respected her, and when she wasnt "bitching" about something, it was great! so much fun in fact, that even though the girlfriend i have now is incredible (and better than kim ever was) i still miss the "goodtimes" she was incredibly beautiful and she knew it, and played me like a damn fool (the same things that you described earlier. ) we went through ups and downs all the time. I spent most of my time trying to make her happy, and patch things up..kissing her ass so she wouldnt leave. that is NO way to live....as a matter of fact its not living at all. somebody else is controlling your life...no matter what it seams like from your point of view...shes controlling you. your mind has a funny way of manipluating YOURSELF to belive things that are not really there, or things that should be. I lost part of myself, part of my life, trying to be what she wanted....and thats not cool.....you only have so much time....and trying to live for someone else is a waste. I have a feeling that you know everything that the others have said is true, you probably even agree...but when you see her...or things are good.....or when you think of the time, and all your great "history". its easy for you to try yet again to make it work. but i could be wrong. its your life, live the way you want too....im just offering advice from my point of view. from experiances from my past four year relationship, with a woman that never really "loved" me. when we split up, i turned into a whiny little pus...i hated myself and everything. when i look back on that period of my life, its easy to say "i should have dumped her long ago" and it sucks to have to say that. dont let youself get to that point where you have to say that to yourself in a couple years. anywho, it sucks being alone, but the more time you spend patching things up, the more time you lose with your real mate....whomever she may be.

what flares are these! i must know...really!

I sent a couple e-mails recently and never got a reply back. I had my heart set on the CF version! o-well...looks like ill spend my money on a just dashes resto instead. unless they send my an email back! hint hint.

why not get a chop saw? i picked one up at a panw shop for less than 100$ and it cuts metal like nuthin! i used it to cut my intercooler pipe...my frame rails...and my turbo plumbing couplings. its nice to have...and you can always use it again and again whenever you need to cut stuff.

I have been looking at converting my Gauges to RED/BLUE/GREEN leds. but am a ibit confused at the MCD (Luminous Intensity per LED) rate. can somebody please explain and compare MCD in a layman sense. Specifically...how MCD compares to a normal 2watt bulb/ 5watt maybe? how would a 3000MCD RED LED compare to a stock 12 volt instrument gauge? whew! sorry for this garbage post...but google searches are coming up negatory.....and all the guys at readioshack looked at me like i was crazy! ugh....

is this BOV meant the dump into the atmosphere? maybe thats whats going on....if its meant to be plumbed back into the incomming stream of air...than it would matter if it was open or not. somebody correct me if im wrong. the problem with saying that its supose to vent to atmosphere while not under boost causes some big bells to go off in my head. that is a HUGE vacuuum leak right there....unless of course.. after looking at the picture of this BOV it seems as though it is designed to be plumbed back..and not vent outside. this would certainly explain a good bit if this was true. I just know how mine works...and i assume thats how they all are supose to work. anywho... anyone....anyone?.......bueller?

have you tried adjusting the spring tension? it sounds as though is adjusted all the way out...(so its very loose) so at idle (vacuum...its actually able to pull the gate open..then at boost the pressure in the line forces the gate closed. and where do you have the vacuum source hooked up too(should be off the intake manifold). i would tighten the adjustment nut down while at idle until it closes....then hit the throttle a couple of times...the valve should open slightly when you let off the throttle....when it does this tighten the adjustment down 1/4 turn and thats your lowest setting. if that doesnt help that i dont know what will.

thats odd, the add states that they are doing a V8 conversion on both Zs....yet this person just bought some 280Z parts from me. o-well...im pissed cause i just lost an auction that i was watching for five days.....more than double in price in the last 55 seconds. ARRRRR!!! a very rare item as well.... maybe next time.

where in texas? maybe we could for a hybridz thug squad hmm....im sorry to hear that.

I worked for alamo sports cars ltd in SA TX. worked on everything from a mini cooper S to the 86 F1 ferrari. it was nice to work in a shop that does nothing but vintage race car prep/repair/restore. altough i loved that job..and it payed mega $$$. my boss and i had had some problems..and i left. I often think about starting my own shop...(especially as it seems that SA is really lacking in any type of "real" performance shop. but we have plenty of fart-can and TYPE-R sticker shops!) seems funny to me that most people on here would love to start thier own shop...maybe we should all move to the same town and start a mega speed shop...with all this talent and knowledge thats on this board (an amazing thing) im sure that we could come up with some killer stuff! anywho...

wheel info in PDF wheel info in PDF?

ummmm, lets try that link again shall weeeeeeee.... wheel info in PDF form

hey fellas, just ran across this info on different makes and models of cars and thier bolt patterns with backspacings. great info for those of us looking for factory replacements or otherwise adapting certain wheels to certain cars. anywho....enjoy the info! i printed it out and put it in my "junkyard refrence" folder, just in case i find a nice set of rims while JY hopping so here it is: PDF wheel info! laterZ

woh there! acid diping is bad...hmm K! i did this to several parts on my plymouth valiant over five years ago....and i still have a problem with the paint not sticking on seams and corners. its a real PITA..it might seem like a goodidea..but think about all the little tiny crevases and what not that will forever be without paint...and will always lurch caustic chemicals when it rains or gets moist. dont do it....you best bet is soda blasting...or walnuts shells. try to stay away from sand blasting or other really harsh medias as the operator may or may not have the experiance to keep from warping panels if he works the same spot for a while. and remember Z cars are fun! just keep your wallet out at all times. laterZ

had the same thing happen on mine. what it turned out to be was the ignition swith. its actually scary just how easy it comes apart. take the column cover off. located the ignition switch youll notice that its in two parts...the keyed portion (attached to the column) and the the back switch portion (that all the wires run into to) pop off the plug and get a long skinny phillips head screw driver out. youll find two (if i remeber correctly) offest screw holding the switch to the lock barrel. just unscrew them and gently twist and pull the switch out. grab a new one and your set to go. there is a little metal or plastic rod that goes inside the mechanism so watch for it when you pull the switch out (it will probably fall to the floor.) i was worried about getting that in at first...but what i did was put a dab of thick axle grease on the plastic/metal rod and stick it into the switch...then i ever so gently put it into place. the 240Z switchs are a tad different...but you can use them. anywho...hope that helps.

when i got out of highschool. i got my second job at a major retail store. after a year of working there i took a position as cashier supervisor (ugh..what a joke that was.) so one day a woman comes in and starts returning all this major high$$ stuff...then at the end of the transaction...because its such a $$ amount...the computer ask for ID, then after the number is punched in it gives you cash or credit or whatever. well...i ask for her ID and shes gives me this look....like i was being and ******* or something...so she starts bitching and whining about all kind of crap, huffing and puffing demanding to speak to the supervisor and what not. so the LOD (big boss man) comes up and ask whats wrong and she goes off of how: "hes only asking me because im black" i really felt like saying: "your only saying that because im white!" so anyway, i didnt say anything of course...i was young and quiet then...if it happened today it might be a different story...but all that doesnt really matter....then point of the matter was that racism is stupid in any sense of the word. but you cannot expect to get rid of it...by perpetuating it yourself*. (*a generic term, im not singling anybody, or thing or group out) i have hundreds of friends...of every imaginable shape and size. ive dated girls of every shape colour and size. i dont think less of anybody for any reason. and yet...some people look at me and automaticaly assume that im "the white devil" WHY? F#ck if i know. does it bother me? NO...no body controls any facet of my life but me. i think that everyone should just screw until we are all the same colour anywho... please dont flame me

oh man sorry! i think i slightly misunderstood the original post (thats my dumb a$$ not reading things a couple times BEFORE i post "knowledge" lol well...have you checked the fusible links? your batteries + side should go into the starter then back out into the big red/white wire, which then breaks off into four other wires that go into the fusible links...one goes to the alt. one goes to ignition the other goes to your main power supply..and the other one i.... cant remember. but i would for sure start at the battery..follow it to the starter...then up to the fusible links...etc etc...until you find the break. who knows...after 20+ years all kind or crazy stuff starts to happen in the electrical system of these cars. for a wire diagram...check out z car creations web site...i think they have the 76 up in PDF format. maybe that will help

ummm that didnt work....lets try again: copy and paste (its big i know) and again o-ke-doh-ke

automotion mirrors alright...here is a part number and price. OUCH$$$$$

those look like porsche 911turbo mirrors to me. funny...but they look really good..almost like they were meant for the car. 993 to be exact 1993-1998: hmm.... tasteeee

this is a drawing of the stock 240 rear. it changes very little in the 260-280 but its the 300ZXs that sees the biggest change: now yes this is a Datsun 510...but they are in very close relation. as far as i know the NA 300ZXs all had R200s the TT models recieved R230s. im still researching all this diff swap stuff...so thats all i can help with thus far.

hey everyone...i was reading up on stonys Z31 front hub conversion and that got my mind moving (man my wallet really hates that) i went to the local yard and found two complete rear and front end setups from a Z31Turbo and a Z32twin turbo. im probably going to nab the fronts for me 300ZXTT brake conversion...but its the rear diff and crossmembers that got me thinking. i could grab the finned LSD from the TT or grab the smaller (little bit cheaper) unit from the Z31Turbo. any thoughts on this? i know they are from from direct swaps...but was still wondering what would be the best in the long run. TIA

just check out this link...follow all the pics i dont even have to say anything ok maybe WOW!!!! wonder how quick it is www.v8914.com

?overengineering? i didnt think that term was aloud on hybridz? i love to overengineer things..i do enjoy simplicity...but i also love the "oh-sh!t" factor when i open the hood. the reason i was trying to stay away from a single or duel nozzle system before the throttle body is that the design of the Zs intake manifold leaves cylinder #1 and a little bit of #2 wanting more...and leaving #6 a little rich...if im running more boost than i should with my already huge intercooler...then i want to make darn sure that im not leaning out numbers 1&2. especially under the influance of alchohol PLUS: when (if ever) it comes time for a NOS system...then i already have a multiport system in place. not only would a duel inlet fogger at each port provide alchy at a set level...i could introduce more fuel at the same port (like ill ever really need it, but i want to make sure...than when and if i really do need it...its there...) overengineering is a good thing...thats what makes the supra motor so strong...or the skyline motor take so much before it needs anything. i like to do things once..even if it is a bit much. as far as the little black box goes...it pulses with each ignition signal it gets....so its a "batch fire" system in a way...it all depends on how you set it up. im not to concerned about it...because when i need the system to come one...is going to be a WOT under major boost...so im sure the RPMS will be up there enough to keep things even.

hey fellas, ive been day dreaming about this kind of setup for a while....doing research on what parts to use...cost..controling such a system ETC. Ive got 90% of my system figured out...its the last 10% thats bothering me. ive found a fully programable AIC its basicaly a relay box controlled by a MAP sensor. it just triggers relays at a given (laptop programmable) point. I will be using this black box to control the fuel pump as well as a NOS solenoid. the fuel pump will turn on at X PSIboost followed by the activation of the solenoid at X+3-5 PSIboost. im still up in the air as to what to inject ( alcohol, methonol, ethanol, toulene(sp?)) etc. but my main problem is...where should i inject the mix. should i use one or two fogger nozzles before the TB...or should i have six fogger nozzles as close to the head as possible. My thinking is to bite the bullit...pull out "YE OLE CREDITCARD" at buy six fogger nozzles. with the duel inlets...i use one for substance X and the other for fuel...or maybe another substance X. two small tanks...on with a 50/50 wateralchy mix and another with race gas? perhaps? this is the 10% im not sure of...i know all the parts i need...and where to put most of them...but what to inject...and where in the system is still up in the air. im not concerned about the cost...so its not a factor when chosing one-or six. i just want to know what would be better. eventually i will anty up and but a nice EMS. but when i get and idea in my head for something i want to do...even if i could spend a little bit more for something better...i have to see it through. my ex called me stubborn...comes to think of it...everyone calls me stubborn. anywho...love to hear the oppinons of the hybrid crew. yall are always my biggest source of info.