I just wish it was enabled so that people I have conducted business with could leave me feedback and inform future buyers that I am someone worth doing business with.
Seems like a lot of work. I just used a Autometer pro comp tach for my RB swap. Just had to drop in a resistor for the pulse wire and done. Although really cool that you got the stock tach to work.
Looks like a good idea. I would PM Pat1 to make you a new oil pan so that you can easily lower your engine set without hitting on the oil pan. He does amazing custom oil pans and can make just about any oil pan you want to give you whatever specs you need. He did mine and my RB20 is sitting maybe 1/8" above the steering rack. With his oil pan and the custom engine mounts I have plenty of hood clearance. I could probably move my engine another few inches closer to my firewall and drop the engine another 1/2"-1". Although not worth all the work and I have plenty of clearance currently.
I have been watching and reading your entire build thread. Impressive to say the least. I actually have the same rear spoiler as you. I will PM you in regards to the riser extensions you made. I only hope my Z turns out a fraction of yours.
Looks like a quality product. The price is a little steep I think but that is because I don't mind doing some of the figuring out myself and would simply go with one of the Painless kits. Although if I was in a time crunch and needed to get my LS1 swap running quickly I would defiantly go this route.
Why not try a torch and heat the areas and pre-melt the area and try and get the seam sealer out? If not, then go with what JMortensen suggested as I have done the same technique. It sucks but it works.
Quick work. Since you already have a welder you should look into getting a set of S13 coilovers or springs/struts and sectioning the tubes to lower the car how you want. Great work so far. I would begin by sandblasting the whole car to reveal any rust that you have to tackle. It will be a fun project though and seems like you are more then capable of handling it. Keep up the good work and take as many pictures as you can and keep us updated.
Insane 2jz build. I have a soft spot for the 1jz's and 2jz's. Maybe one day I will throw one into my S30's. Overall you have done amazing work and your attention to detail is great. Good luck on finishing the build.
That is exactly what I am doing. My friend Matt (who is also on here, Goffz) is helping me out and bringing me some DOM tubing and we will be knocking out tubing my whole front end this week. Also couldn't beat grabbing the Lexus SC400 front suspension for 50 bucks at the local pick and pull...
So the wiring is done. I need to upload some more pictures I have of the car. Ended up stripping all unused wires and relays, etc. Ended up with a whole trash bag of wires.
Looking good. There is so much room in the engine bay of the Z32 but the VG30's just consume so much of it, it appears to be so much smaller. I would look into weight reductions on the Z32 as they are heavy Z's.
Never used the stuff, but have heard from enough local people and friends that it is crap. I always just coated the inside of the area with POR15 and the outside area with POR15 then I simply removed the POR15 from where ever I needed to weld and laid my weld and then repainted with POR15.
I am copying his same design. I just can't tell in his pictures if he went through the firewall and I might as well go through and tie it into my roll cage. I should start this project this week and should have it done before the weekend.